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Default CH/HW 2-port valve failed?

I appear to have an S-plan CH/HW gas system, with 2 x 2port valves.

In the last few days the hot water has stopped heating (although
immersion is fine, as is heating)

I first tried bypassing the hot water cylinder thermostat - this made
no difference.

I believe therefore that the 2port valve leading to the HW cylinder has
failed.

The valve is a ACL Lifestyle, 28mm. There is an A/B indicator, which
stays on A. There is also a manual level I can push, which causes the
indicator to move 1/2 way to B. If I do this there is a click of a
microswitch and the pump / boiler activates fine. If I let go the lever
move backs to A and afte ra while the pump/boiler will stop.

My son reckoned he saw it move 1/2 way to B and immediately back again
when HW was turned on, but I've not been able to see this myself. It's
always on A.

I am guessing therefore that the actuator motor is not operating. I've
not checked the wiring yet, but it's probably failed?

On starting to removing the cover, I was hoping the whole actuator
might unclip - but instead it seems as if only the plastic cover comes
off, with all the "business" left attached. I've not yet examined if in
fact this can be removed dry.

Does anyway know if on the ACL Lifestyle it can be removed/replaced
easily?

I'm not a plumbing fan, so given that I also am in need of a boiler
service, am considering getting BG etc to start a contract. A few years
ago I believe they charged extra if an existing fault was present. Now
all I can see in the T&Cs for cover is

--start--
Design or existing faults

The cost of repairs needed because of design faults (unless we are
responsible), or faults which existed before you entered into the
agreement and which could not be identified on initial inspection using
reasonable care and skill.
--end--

Does this mean they'll charge for faults found on initial inspection?
Or that they won't worry about it?

I would expect I'm looking at around
- £60 boiler service
- £40 new valve/actuator
- £80 labour

??
in any case, making the BG approach reasonable.

Comments?

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Posted to uk.d-i-y
Set Square
 
Posts: n/a
Default CH/HW 2-port valve failed?

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

I appear to have an S-plan CH/HW gas system, with 2 x 2port valves.

In the last few days the hot water has stopped heating (although
immersion is fine, as is heating)

I first tried bypassing the hot water cylinder thermostat - this made
no difference.

I believe therefore that the 2port valve leading to the HW cylinder
has failed.

The valve is a ACL Lifestyle, 28mm. There is an A/B indicator, which
stays on A. There is also a manual level I can push, which causes the
indicator to move 1/2 way to B. If I do this there is a click of a
microswitch and the pump / boiler activates fine. If I let go the
lever move backs to A and afte ra while the pump/boiler will stop.

My son reckoned he saw it move 1/2 way to B and immediately back again
when HW was turned on, but I've not been able to see this myself. It's
always on A.

I am guessing therefore that the actuator motor is not operating. I've
not checked the wiring yet, but it's probably failed?

On starting to removing the cover, I was hoping the whole actuator
might unclip - but instead it seems as if only the plastic cover comes
off, with all the "business" left attached. I've not yet examined if
in fact this can be removed dry.

Does anyway know if on the ACL Lifestyle it can be removed/replaced
easily?

I'm not a plumbing fan, so given that I also am in need of a boiler
service, am considering getting BG etc to start a contract. A few
years ago I believe they charged extra if an existing fault was
present. Now all I can see in the T&Cs for cover is

--start--
Design or existing faults

The cost of repairs needed because of design faults (unless we are
responsible), or faults which existed before you entered into the
agreement and which could not be identified on initial inspection
using reasonable care and skill.
--end--

Does this mean they'll charge for faults found on initial inspection?
Or that they won't worry about it?

I would expect I'm looking at around
- £60 boiler service
- £40 new valve/actuator
- £80 labour

??
in any case, making the BG approach reasonable.

Comments?


I don't know this particular valve, but most motorised valves have actuators
which can be replaced without disturbing the wet part of the valve. Check
the wiring to make sure that the valve is actually being told to open. If it
is, the most likely explanation is that the actuator motor has failed.
Screwfix do a synchron motor for under 8 quid which fits certain ACL Drayton
actuators - check whether it fits yours.

The general concensus in this NG is that you shouldn't touch BG with a
bargepole!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.


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Posted to uk.d-i-y
 
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Default CH/HW 2-port valve failed?

I too am having problems - but am not certain whether it is the valve
(ACL LIfestyle 779H 340 3OLO 3 port mid position valve), the control
panel or the PCB board in the boiler. I have contacted both
manufacturers of the control panel and the valve and of course, each
says that the others equipment is at fault!
The problem is occasional and includes:
1. Manual CH override did not work. So, tried HW override which did
work. Turned this off after a few minutes and then tried CH override
again. This time is worked.
2. On another occasion, CH override was utilised. The HW then came on
automically (clcok setting). However, when teh HW went off (clock
setting) it also took the CH off with it - even though the CH override
light on the controller remained on.
3. CH did not come on at the programmed time - although the thermostat
clicked on in the hall. Also, the CH light lit up on the control panel.
CH would only come on if HW and CH overrides were put on together.
As I said, Drayton think the control panel must be at fault whereas
Danfoss (control panel)advise that the motorised valve is the most
likely cause of teh problem. So, an independent view would be much
appreciated before I fork out a lot of cash.

By the way, the valve mentioend above must be replaced in its entirity.
I am advised that the replacement is the MA1-779-3 (28mm).

Thanks

Colin

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Posted to uk.d-i-y
 
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Default CH/HW 2-port valve failed?

I too am having problems - but am not certain whether it is the valve
(ACL LIfestyle 779H 340 3OLO 3 port mid position valve), the control
panel or the PCB board in the boiler. I have contacted both
manufacturers of the control panel and the valve and of course, each
says that the others equipment is at fault!
The problem is occasional and includes:
1. Manual CH override did not work. So, tried HW override which did
work. Turned this off after a few minutes and then tried CH override
again. This time is worked.
2. On another occasion, CH override was utilised. The HW then came on
automically (clcok setting). However, when teh HW went off (clock
setting) it also took the CH off with it - even though the CH override
light on the controller remained on.
3. CH did not come on at the programmed time - although the thermostat
clicked on in the hall. Also, the CH light lit up on the control panel.
CH would only come on if HW and CH overrides were put on together.
As I said, Drayton think the control panel must be at fault whereas
Danfoss (control panel)advise that the motorised valve is the most
likely cause of teh problem. So, an independent view would be much
appreciated before I fork out a lot of cash.

By the way, the valve mentioend above must be replaced in its entirity.
I am advised that the replacement is the MA1-779-3 (28mm).

Thanks

Colin

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Wingedcat
 
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Default CH/HW 2-port valve failed?

Colin

Go back to basics.

Set room thermostat to hottest, tank thermostat to hottest, open up all
TRVs to the max and make sure programmer says HW off and CH off.

Get yourself a multimeter and identify the Call for Heat input on the
boiler. This should be simple, the incoming connections will be Live,
Neutral, Earth and Call for Heat.

Activate the HW using the Override facility on the programmer. Call for
Heat input on boiler should now become live. Boiler should fire, pump
should start, Mid-position valve should be in HW only position which is
"at rest", i.e. there should be a significant resistance when
trying to move the lever on the valve by hand.

If you get no Call for Heat signal, either the programmer or the wiring
in between is knackered.
If the boiler doesn't fire or the pump doesn't circulate, you have
a boiler / PCB problem.
If you get CH instead of HW, or if you get CH and HW, then your mid
position valve is knackered. (feel the pipes coming from the mid
position valve to confirm which position the valve's in).

Turn off HW and activate CH.

As above, you should get a Call for Heat signal, boiler should fire,
pump should start. This time the Mid-position valve should be fully
activated, i.e. there should be no resistance at all when trying to
move the lever on the valve by hand.

Other results can be interpreted as above.
If the valve is not fully activated then it is knackered. You will most
likely get HW instead or a combination of CH and HW.

Turn on both CH and HW.

Results will be as far CH only but the mid-position valve will now be
in a central position and both pipes from the valve will become warm.

If all these results check out okay, then your boiler and associated
plumbing and valves etc is working fine, and the problem is with the
programmer. Easy!

Luke

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