I am intending relocating a double power socket and will be extending the
wiring. What is the best connector for the job. Once the aperture where the
old socket was is filled in, the connection will be hidden.
Blair

In article ,
says...
I am intending relocating a double power socket and will be extending the
wiring. What is the best connector for the job. Once the aperture where the
old socket was is filled in, the connection will be hidden.

You're not allowed to hide it. Use chocblock to connect the wires and a
blanking plate to cover the existing box.

In article ,
Blair wrote:
I am intending relocating a double power socket and will be extending
the wiring. What is the best connector for the job. Once the aperture
where the old socket was is filled in, the connection will be hidden.

If it's going to be filled over, it should be crimped using the correct
connectors and tool then totally sleeved in heat shrink - I'd use the glue
sort. It may also be soldered and each connector sleeved then overall as
before.

--
*Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
says...
In article ,
Blair wrote:
I am intending relocating a double power socket and will be extending
the wiring. What is the best connector for the job. Once the aperture
where the old socket was is filled in, the connection will be hidden.

If it's going to be filled over, it should be crimped using the correct
connectors and tool then totally sleeved in heat shrink - I'd use the glue
sort. It may also be soldered and each connector sleeved then overall as
before.


That's assuming that the existing cabling is either horizontal or
vertical, and the extended cabling is in line with it.

In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
If it's going to be filled over, it should be crimped using the
correct connectors and tool then totally sleeved in heat shrink - I'd
use the glue sort. It may also be soldered and each connector sleeved
then overall as before.


That's assuming that the existing cabling is either horizontal or
vertical, and the extended cabling is in line with it.

That still applies if it were jointed with a choc block inside an obvious
enclosure?

--
*The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
says...
In article ,
Rob Morley wrote:
If it's going to be filled over, it should be crimped using the
correct connectors and tool then totally sleeved in heat shrink - I'd
use the glue sort. It may also be soldered and each connector sleeved
then overall as before.


That's assuming that the existing cabling is either horizontal or
vertical, and the extended cabling is in line with it.

That still applies if it were jointed with a choc block inside an obvious
enclosure?


No, because you can tell where a properly routed cable will run from a
visible fitting.

"Blair" wrote in message
...
I am intending relocating a double power socket and will be extending the
wiring. What is the best connector for the job. Once the aperture where
the
old socket was is filled in, the connection will be hidden.
Blair

Thanks to all who replied. Two mentioned chocblocks for joining wires and
one said joining wires should be carried out with a proper crimping tool and
covered with heat shrink material.
Is there a connecting block which lies between the two which I can use/
Blair

In article ,
Blair wrote:
Thanks to all who replied. Two mentioned chocblocks for joining wires
and one said joining wires should be carried out with a proper crimping
tool and covered with heat shrink material. Is there a connecting block
which lies between the two which I can use/

Think you've missed the point. You can only use a connector block of any
type if it is accessible afterwards, and plastering it into the wall makes
it inaccessible. If you wish to use a connector block then simply put a
blank cover over the box where the socket was - or leave the existing
socket there and extend the ring. And as has been pointed out, unprotected
cable plastered into a wall must either be more than 25mm below the
surface or follow certain allowed routes to the socket. This is to help
prevent someone knocking a nail in the wall and striking the cable, etc.

--
*A day without sunshine is like... night.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Blair wrote:
Thanks to all who replied. Two mentioned chocblocks for joining wires
and one said joining wires should be carried out with a proper crimping
tool and covered with heat shrink material. Is there a connecting block
which lies between the two which I can use/

Think you've missed the point. You can only use a connector block of any
type if it is accessible afterwards, and plastering it into the wall makes
it inaccessible. If you wish to use a connector block then simply put a
blank cover over the box where the socket was - or leave the existing
socket there and extend the ring. And as has been pointed out, unprotected
cable plastered into a wall must either be more than 25mm below the
surface or follow certain allowed routes to the socket. This is to help
prevent someone knocking a nail in the wall and striking the cable, etc.

--
*A day without sunshine is like... night.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I have accepted that I am going to use a blanking plate but I wanted to know
is what type of connector block should I use. I thought that a simple
connecting strip would not be suitable and that there would be a better
alternative.
Blair

In article ,
Blair wrote:
I have accepted that I am going to use a blanking plate but I wanted to
know is what type of connector block should I use. I thought that a
simple connecting strip would not be suitable and that there would be a
better alternative.

A suitably rated choc block will be fine - that's what they're for.

--
*Generally speaking, you aren't learning much if your lips are moving.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
says...
snip
I have accepted that I am going to use a blanking plate but I wanted to know
is what type of connector block should I use. I thought that a simple
connecting strip would not be suitable and that there would be a better
alternative.

It's just the same as the connectors in switches, sockets and junction
boxes ...

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Blair wrote:
Thanks to all who replied. Two mentioned chocblocks for joining wires
and one said joining wires should be carried out with a proper crimping
tool and covered with heat shrink material. Is there a connecting block
which lies between the two which I can use/

Think you've missed the point. You can only use a connector block of any
type if it is accessible afterwards,

correct

and plastering it into the wall makes
it inaccessible.

yes

If you wish to use a connector block then simply put a
blank cover over the box where the socket was - or leave the existing
socket there and extend the ring. And as has been pointed out, unprotected
cable plastered into a wall must either be more than 25mm below

No - the depth should be over 50mm 'from any surface' or enclosed in
earthed metal conduit (trunking or ducting) or installed horizonrtally
or vertically within 150mm of the angle formed by 2 walls or run
horizontally or vertically to an accessory or consumer unit.

see IEE Onsite Guide (p 53 in blue cover edition)

[Note the Guide leaves the issue of ceilings unclear - the
illustration in the IEE Guide shows a 150mm junction on a wall
immediately below ceiling as being a permitted zone, implying that
'wall' in the rule (7.3.2) includes ceilings. OTOH it is generally
accepted SFAIUI that cable can be laid anywhere over & resting on a
ceiling]

HTH