What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for something
that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time


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On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 11:37:32 +0000 (UTC), "Lawrence Zarb"
wrote:

| What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for something
| that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time

Anything with lots of watts, and a frost stat setting for cold weather.
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lawrence Zarb wrote:

What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for
something that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all
the time

Have you tried the Sun? g
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"Lawrence Zarb" wrote in message
news:79440858dde65dcb0960fd742d46ba87.52329@mygate .mailgate.org...
What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for something
that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time

One of those plug in convector heaters you can get from B&Q for £15 should
do the job,, as long as it's not too big a place.

"Lawrence Zarb" wrote in message
news:79440858dde65dcb0960fd742d46ba87.52329@mygate .mailgate.org...
What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for something
that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time

http://www.myson.co.uk/slimline.htm

This will heat the conservatory very quickly. Make sure the pipes as large
as possible. Get 22mm as near to the unit as possible.

On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 11:37:32 +0000 (UTC), Lawrence Zarb wrote:

What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for something
that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time


The fastets way to heat a space is with hot air blowers. These can be
retrofitted to normal CH pipework and equipped with thermostats and a zone
valve for independent control...- run the valve and thee fan off the stat
to stop water circulating AND shut off the fan. They have a muh higher
output per unit size, and the hot blast tends to equalise temperatures very
quickly. My favorite is the hot air curtains used in shops that blast hot
air down..this is excellenet if you have a high ceiling as the hot air
collects up high, gets heated and then pushed down to floor level...

What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for something
that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time

Myson Hiline above the door. Doesn't even use wall space and can have
stupidly high outputs for getting the temp up quickly in time for dinner.
It'll need zoning off your main system. It must have independent timing and
temperature control from the rest of the house.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for something
that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time

Myson Hiline above the door. Doesn't even use wall space and can have
stupidly high outputs for getting the temp up quickly in time for dinner.
It'll need zoning off your main system. It must have independent timing
and
temperature control from the rest of the house.

It doesn't require a separate zone. That is the best case of course, but it
can be taken off the existing rads. If you are fitting a zone for it, don't
bother with a zone valve, use a pump and non-return valve. They need a bit
of flow through them for best performance, with pipes as large as you can
get.

It doesn't require a separate zone. That is the best case of course, but
it
can be taken off the existing rads.

Part L differs, however. A conservatory must have indepedent timing and
heating control for building regulations due to energy efficiency.

For simiplicity's sake, you can probably get away with a zone valve off the
existing house zone. The problem then is that the conservatory will only
fire up if both it AND the house stat require heat.

Christian.

On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 14:36:40 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 11:37:32 +0000 (UTC), Lawrence Zarb wrote:

What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for something
that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time


The fastets way to heat a space is with hot air blowers. These can be
retrofitted to normal CH pipework and equipped with thermostats and a zone
valve for independent control...- run the valve and thee fan off the stat
to stop water circulating AND shut off the fan.

Unless the run is dedicated and particularly long you don't *really*
need the zone valve, the output from these units when the fan is
switched off is very low.


--

Unless the run is dedicated and particularly long you don't *really*
need the zone valve, the output from these units when the fan is
switched off is very low.

Not really. With the pipe run as well, you could be looking at several
hundred watts from a hiline.

You will still need a programmable thermostat or suchlike to provide
independent timing and temperature control.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
It doesn't require a separate zone. That is the best case of course,
but
it
can be taken off the existing rads.

Part L differs, however. A conservatory must have indepedent timing and
heating control for building regulations due to energy efficiency.

They have temp control. When the fan is off little heat floats out to worth
worrying about. Time control? A plug-in timer into the fan heaters socket.
If it brings in the fan heater when the main clock is off then there is no
heat to the fan heater, then the internal temp stat holds off the fan.

For simiplicity's sake, you can probably get away with a zone valve off
the
existing house zone. The problem then is that the conservatory will only
fire up if both it AND the house stat require heat.

Christian.

On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 17:07:37 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Unless the run is dedicated and particularly long you don't *really*
need the zone valve, the output from these units when the fan is
switched off is very low.

Not really. With the pipe run as well, you could be looking at several
hundred watts from a hiline.

You will still need a programmable thermostat or suchlike to provide
independent timing and temperature control.


Yes that's why I said "Unless the run is dedicated and particularly
long" But considering the unit itself, when the fans are switched off
the actual heat gain to the room itself IS minimal, so much so you
would have great difficulty, short of grabbing the feed/return pipes,
in telling that the boiler was even firing.


--

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
reenews.net...

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
It doesn't require a separate zone. That is the best case of course,
but
it
can be taken off the existing rads.

Part L differs, however. A conservatory must have indepedent timing and
heating control for building regulations due to energy efficiency.

They have temp control. When the fan is off little heat floats out to
worth
worrying about. Time control? A plug-in timer into the fan heaters
socket.
If it brings in the fan heater when the main clock is off then there is no
heat to the fan heater, then the internal temp stat holds off the fan.

For simiplicity's sake, you can probably get away with a zone valve off
the
existing house zone. The problem then is that the conservatory will only
fire up if both it AND the house stat require heat.

You should fit the zone valve and a timer stat.
Mine has been like that for 22 years now and has saved tons of energy over
that time.
Don't forget to lag the pipes.

Make sure the timerstat has a frost protection setting.

"dennis@home" wrote in message
k...

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
reenews.net...

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
It doesn't require a separate zone. That is the best case of course,
but
it
can be taken off the existing rads.

Part L differs, however. A conservatory must have indepedent timing and
heating control for building regulations due to energy efficiency.

They have temp control. When the fan is off little heat floats out to
worth
worrying about. Time control? A plug-in timer into the fan heaters
socket.
If it brings in the fan heater when the main clock is off then there is
no
heat to the fan heater, then the internal temp stat holds off the fan.

For simiplicity's sake, you can probably get away with a zone valve off
the
existing house zone. The problem then is that the conservatory will
only
fire up if both it AND the house stat require heat.

You should fit the zone valve and a timer stat.

Best use a pump. These fancoil units need flow through them, and a
conventional system with a 6 metre pump may not be adequate.

Mine has been like that for 22 years now and has saved tons of energy over
that time.
Don't forget to lag the pipes.

Make sure the timerstat has a frost protection setting.

On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 13:42:24 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Lawrence Zarb" wrote in message
news:79440858dde65dcb0960fd742d46ba87.52329@mygat e.mailgate.org...
What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for something
that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time

http://www.myson.co.uk/slimline.htm

This will heat the conservatory very quickly. Make sure the pipes as large
as possible. Get 22mm as near to the unit as possible.


This really depends on the output of the fan convector.

Unless the pipe runs are very long, 15mm is suitable up to about 6kW.

A calculation can be done using the tables on the CDA web site.


--

..andy

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 13:42:24 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Lawrence Zarb" wrote in message
news:79440858dde65dcb0960fd742d46ba87.52329@mygat e.mailgate.org...
What is the best way to heat a conservatory...I am looking for
something
that will heat the room quickly, but not need to be run all the time

http://www.myson.co.uk/slimline.htm

This will heat the conservatory very quickly. Make sure the pipes as
large
as possible. Get 22mm as near to the unit as possible.


This really depends on the output of the fan convector.

Unless the pipe runs are very long, 15mm is suitable up to about 6kW.

A calculation can be done using the tables on the CDA web site.

They really need flow through them and as hot as possible.

They have temp control. When the fan is off little heat floats out to
worth
worrying about.

The internal stat is on the pipe temperature and is used to stop the fan
when no heat is available from the hot water circuit. It doesn't have a room
temperature stat, which must be fitted externally.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...

They have temp control. When the fan
is off little heat floats out to worth
worrying about.

The internal stat is on the pipe temperature and is used to stop the fan
when no heat is available from the hot water circuit. It doesn't have a
room
temperature stat, which must be fitted externally.

They do have a room stat fitted to the unit (the Kickspace and other models
do not) . An external stat can be fitted for better temp sensing, or temp
and timing (programmer stat).

They do have a room stat fitted to the unit (the Kickspace and other
models
do not) . An external stat can be fitted for better temp sensing, or temp
and timing (programmer stat).

It was my understanding that only the Loline (heating only model) has a
built in thermostat, whilst the Hiline requires an external one. Am I
mistaken?

The Hiline is much more suitable than the Loline for most conservatory
installations due to its use of wasted space above the door to the house.
The Loline would require precious low down wall space, which is often of
limited supply in a conservatory or made of materials not suitable for
mounting heating appliances.

Christian.

It was my understanding that only the Loline (heating only model) has a
built in thermostat, whilst the Hiline requires an external one. Am I
mistaken?

I belive the Slimline also has a thermostat. It is also suitable for many
conservatories, as it can often be fitted on the narrow strip of brick wall
between the door into the house and the frame.

Christian.

In message , Christian
McArdle writes
It was my understanding that only the Loline (heating only model) has a
built in thermostat, whilst the Hiline requires an external one. Am I
mistaken?

I belive the Slimline also has a thermostat. It is also suitable for many
conservatories, as it can often be fitted on the narrow strip of brick wall
between the door into the house and the frame.

We have a single glazed Victorian conservatory, there is a rad in there,
fitted by a previous owner, but we have turned that off as it would just
be waste having it on all the time and it's to slow to heat up the
space.

But fitting a one of these fanned heaters would be possible option. As
it is long thinner shape along the side of the house we have plenty of
house wall space, ( as well as low down space on the conservatory wall -
but the pipe runs would be longer)

So any suggestions as to which is better, high mounted blowing down or
lower mounted blowing into the room (I sort of feel that the former
seems better)
--
Chris French

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
They do have a room stat fitted to the unit (the Kickspace and other
models
do not) . An external stat can be fitted for better temp sensing, or
temp
and timing (programmer stat).

It was my understanding that only the Loline (heating only model) has a
built in thermostat, whilst the Hiline requires an external one. Am I
mistaken?

The Hiline is much more suitable than the Loline for most conservatory
installations due to its use of wasted space above the door to the house.
The Loline would require precious low down wall space, which is often of
limited supply in a conservatory or made of materials not suitable for
mounting heating appliances.

I fitted a lo-line recently for a friend in a conservatory. He had enough
wall space, nice and neat in the corner on the house wall. It was taken off
the 15mm rad circuit as it would have meant ripping up a solid wood laminate
floor to get a dedicated 22mm circuit most of the way, and as I suspected
did not initially perform too well. I had two choices:

1. Install another pump in series to give greater flow through the whole
system.
2. fit a extra pump to supplement downstairs only.

Because of the way the system was piped up. No. 2 was best. The flow
increased and it performed well. The original pump pumps upstairs and down
and the new pump only downstairs, so downstairs has pumps in series, well
half of the output of the original pump. I was thinking about wiring the
second pump into a stat that controlled the Myson and the second pump, but
there again access for wiring was a problem. So far no excessive noises. I
wanted to fit a pump just before the Myson, but no room at all.

All a bit semi-temporary, as a thermal store and condensing boiler will be
going in soon.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
It was my understanding that only the Loline (heating only model) has a
built in thermostat, whilst the Hiline requires an external one. Am I
mistaken?

I belive the Slimline also has a thermostat. It is also suitable for many
conservatories, as it can often be fitted on the narrow strip of brick
wall
between the door into the house and the frame.

Sorry. I fitted a slimline, not lo-line. They bill it as a conservatory
heater.

"chris French" wrote in message
...
In message , Christian
McArdle writes

It was my understanding that only the Loline (heating only model) has a
built in thermostat, whilst the Hiline requires an external one. Am I
mistaken?

I belive the Slimline also has a thermostat. It is also suitable for many
conservatories, as it can often be fitted on the narrow strip of brick
wall
between the door into the house and the frame.

We have a single glazed Victorian conservatory, there is a rad in there,
fitted by a previous owner, but we have turned that off as it would just
be waste having it on all the time and it's to slow to heat up the
space.

But fitting a one of these fanned heaters would be possible option. As
it is long thinner shape along the side of the house we have plenty of
house wall space, ( as well as low down space on the conservatory wall -
but the pipe runs would be longer)

So any suggestions as to which is better, high mounted blowing down or
lower mounted blowing into the room (I sort of feel that the former
seems better)

Lower mounted blowing across the floor. Hot air rises. Some high mounted
units don't blow hard enough to get to the floor, before the hot air starts
to rise up.

Christian McArdle wrote:
It doesn't require a separate zone. That is the best case of course, but
it
can be taken off the existing rads.

Part L differs, however. A conservatory must have indepedent timing and
heating control for building regulations due to energy efficiency.

For simiplicity's sake, you can probably get away with a zone valve off the
existing house zone. The problem then is that the conservatory will only
fire up if both it AND the house stat require heat.

Christian.

If an extra pump is needed for a conservatory heater, then are there
small pumps available? The standard CH pumps seem too large to me.

If an extra pump is needed for a conservatory heater, then are there
small pumps available? The standard CH pumps seem too large to me.

A zone valve would be fine instead. You can zone off with individual pumps
or with zone valves. Pump zoning also requires one way valves which are hard
to find in a quiet configuration. I much prefer valve zoning, particularly
if the main pump is a good one, such as a Grundfos Alpha.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
If an extra pump is needed for a conservatory heater, then are there
small pumps available? The standard CH pumps seem too large to me.

A zone valve would be fine instead. You can
zone off with individual pumps
or with zone valves. Pump zoning also requires
one way valves which are hard
to find in a quiet configuration. I much prefer
valve zoning, particularly if the main pump is
a good one, such as a Grundfos Alpha.

I prefer pump zoning as valves restrict flow. Look insude a 22mm, and you
see a 15mm orifice. Pumps are more reliable too. If using a fancoil heater
you will need flow through it. 90% the existing CH pumps can't do it in a
retro fit, unless the fancoil is near to the boiler/pump and the pipes are
22mm most of the way. Conservatories at times are at the end of the CH
circuit with only 15mm conveniently available.

Small pumps? Grundfos make a small secondary circulation pump called the
Comfort for secondary circulation applications. I see no reason why it
can't be used on a CH loop, but check with Grundfos if you can get hold of
anyone with sense there. It comes in many variations, with integrated:
timer, stat and non-return valves. A basic unit with integrated non-return
valve may fit inside a fancoil units case (depends on units of course). It
can be switched on via the fancoil wall mounted thermostat or
programmer/stat and give extra flow to the fancoil unit. It is not cheap
around £100. There may be other makers making small pumps, but I haven't
seen them, perhaps others may know of one.

If cheaper smaller pumps were available, then a 3 zone setup: upstairs,
downstairs, DHW cyl, could have a small pump for each zone taking up little
space at all.