UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
4square
 
Posts: n/a
Default Roof eaves/outer wall detail

On my 1960's house, the eaves soffit boards are level with top of
first floor windows - fairly common, I think. However, I get the
impression from looking from inside the loft that while the concrete
lintel over the top of the window frame supports the inner layer of
brickwork, there is no outer layer of brick/blockwork - there doesnt
look room for it under slope of roof. This means, that inside the
first floor rooms, the brickwork over the windows - about 300mm high -
is only one layer thick, which is probably why it seems to create cold
surfaces of condensation, etc. Am I right in this conclusion, and is
there any way to help insulate the area over the windows? Advice much
appreciated.

  #2   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Dave Fawthrop
 
Posts: n/a
Default Roof eaves/outer wall detail

On 20 Nov 2005 03:03:59 -0800, "4square" wrote:

| On my 1960's house, the eaves soffit boards are level with top of
| first floor windows - fairly common, I think. However, I get the
| impression from looking from inside the loft that while the concrete
| lintel over the top of the window frame supports the inner layer of
| brickwork, there is no outer layer of brick/blockwork - there doesnt
| look room for it under slope of roof. This means, that inside the
| first floor rooms, the brickwork over the windows - about 300mm high -
| is only one layer thick, which is probably why it seems to create cold
| surfaces of condensation, etc. Am I right in this conclusion, and is
| there any way to help insulate the area over the windows? Advice much
| appreciated.

When I had soffits done the bricks above the lintel fell out. :-(
Stuff the gap full of glass fiber, but make sure the loft space is still
ventilated.
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk
Sick and tired of Junk Snail Mail?
Register with http://www.tpsonline.org.uk/mpsr/
IME it works :-)
  #3   Report Post  
Member
 
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 34
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4square
On my 1960's house, the eaves soffit boards are level with top of
first floor windows - fairly common, I think. However, I get the
impression from looking from inside the loft that while the concrete
lintel over the top of the window frame supports the inner layer of
brickwork, there is no outer layer of brick/blockwork - there doesnt
look room for it under slope of roof. This means, that inside the
first floor rooms, the brickwork over the windows - about 300mm high -
is only one layer thick, which is probably why it seems to create cold
surfaces of condensation, etc. Am I right in this conclusion, and is
there any way to help insulate the area over the windows? Advice much
appreciated.
My house is the same - about 300mm of blockwork above the window on the inside, the top of the window is level with the soffitt on the outside. When I had new windows put in there was just a gap above the window frame into the loft above. The window frame pretty much filled this, with a piece of quadrant/sealer around the top, & sides. Never really thought about the heat loss consequences of this, but i've never had any problems with condensation or anything.
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
 
Posts: n/a
Default Roof eaves/outer wall detail

4square wrote:
On my 1960's house, the eaves soffit boards are level with top of
first floor windows - fairly common, I think. However, I get the
impression from looking from inside the loft that while the concrete
lintel over the top of the window frame supports the inner layer of
brickwork, there is no outer layer of brick/blockwork - there doesnt
look room for it under slope of roof. This means, that inside the
first floor rooms, the brickwork over the windows - about 300mm high -
is only one layer thick, which is probably why it seems to create cold
surfaces of condensation, etc. Am I right in this conclusion, and is
there any way to help insulate the area over the windows? Advice much
appreciated.


Although more likely, you still shouldnt get condensation on 4" walls.
Maybe your interior RH is on the high side for some reason.

NT

  #5   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
keith_765
 
Posts: n/a
Default Roof eaves/outer wall detail


"Pufter" wrote in message
...

4square Wrote:
On my 1960's house, the eaves soffit boards are level with top of
first floor windows - fairly common, I think. However, I get the
impression from looking from inside the loft that while the concrete
lintel over the top of the window frame supports the inner layer of
brickwork, there is no outer layer of brick/blockwork - there doesnt
look room for it under slope of roof. This means, that inside the
first floor rooms, the brickwork over the windows - about 300mm high
-
is only one layer thick, which is probably why it seems to create
cold
surfaces of condensation, etc. Am I right in this conclusion, and
is
there any way to help insulate the area over the windows? Advice much
appreciated.

My house is the same - about 300mm of blockwork above the window on the
inside, the top of the window is level with the soffitt on the outside.
When I had new windows put in there was just a gap above the window
frame into the loft above. The window frame pretty much filled this,
with a piece of quadrant/sealer around the top, & sides. Never really
thought about the heat loss consequences of this, but i've never had
any problems with condensation or anything.


--
Pufter

I think the cause of the problem is cold air hitting the inner wall skin. It
was general practise in the 60s to lay fibreglass on top of the ceiling up
to the edge of the roof slope. Present day regs, the insulation is taken
over the wall plate and meets a vertical layer on the outer skin of the
inner wall to stop cold air causing condensation on the inner wall. If you
can get some fibreglass over the wall plate and down to the top of the outer
wall, this should cure the problem. There should be enough room to thread
insulation between the underlay felt and the wall plate. It might be better
to get some 50mm or 2" fibre glass bats or polystyrene sheet, they will be
stiffer and should be easier to push down.


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Do I need through wall flashing where roof interests stone wall? lance hirsch Home Repair 2 November 6th 05 09:12 PM
Rain seeping inside through concrete block wall above grade (Warning: LONG explanation) Vinnie Murdico Home Repair 9 September 8th 04 02:43 AM
Get a New Roof But Don't Add Any Ventilation? Jay Chan Home Repair 12 March 30th 04 05:16 PM
"Damp" internal wall - initial measurements made. Any ideas? Clive Long,UK UK diy 5 January 30th 04 09:28 AM
Roof design problem Niel A. Farrow UK diy 0 January 26th 04 10:02 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:19 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"