We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left
Blair

We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is
the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left
Blair
I think you can get stainless steel cleaner, but i've not used that in a
while.
Baby oil works quite well, but i'm not sure if it's OK on bits that might
get hot.

HTH

Blair wrote:
We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left

microfibre 'e-cloth'. John Lewis and Lakeland sell them - really good
for windows too.

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:41:20 +0100, "Blair" wrote:

We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left

Anything that shifts oily grease will do it. You're never going to keep
it clean because a cooker hood always has enough oil film on it from
cooking to show prints.

If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on
oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket
will have it.

If it's stained or burned, then a Garryflex block (rubber eraser with
abrasive grit in it) will re-finish stainless to a good brushed or
mirror finish. You'll need to passivate it afterwards with citric acid
(easy, Google) or else the bare stainless will stain quickly.

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:41:20 +0100, Blair wrote:

We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is
the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left

Cleaning it is one thing. Proprietary cleaners will take off finger marks,
especially if followed up with paper towel. Any shiny surface will show up
fingerprints to some degree or another. Polishing it (which will make any
prints more evident) can be done with *very* fine abrasives, 12,000 gauge
or so.

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:25:21 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

[SS]

If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on
oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket
will have it.

Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out the
hydrated oxides of iron. The surface of SS is actually chromium oxide in
some sort of weird matrix which keeps the oxygen away from the ferrous
component. If you manage to set up an electrochemical cell, SS will
corrode surprisingly badly. BTDTGTTS

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

"John Schmitt" wrote:

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:25:21 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

[SS]

If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on
oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket
will have it.

Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out the
hydrated oxides of iron. The surface of SS is actually chromium oxide in
some sort of weird matrix which keeps the oxygen away from the ferrous
component. If you manage to set up an electrochemical cell, SS will
corrode surprisingly badly. BTDTGTTS

That problem is now well known on boats - it has led to a few total
loss accidents though when keels have fallen off.

http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/...rShoeBolts.jpg


--

We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left

I cleaned a kitchen sink using a tube of chrome polish I found. The
result was stunning. the kitchen sink was old but it polished to a
showroom finish.

Blair wrote:
We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What
is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left
Blair

Bleach.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

My son uses WD40.

"stoker" wrote in message
oups.com...
My son uses WD40.

Isn't it wonderful I now have methods to clean Stainless Steel. I have
passed on the list to my wife who asked me the question.
She will make the decision.
Thanks to all for your replies
Blair

Blair wrote:
"stoker" wrote in message
oups.com...
My son uses WD40.

Isn't it wonderful I now have methods to clean Stainless Steel. I have
passed on the list to my wife who asked me the question.
She will make the decision.
Thanks to all for your replies
Blair

I'd leave the WD40 out of it, summat to do with the chemicals?
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:25:21 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

[SS]

If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on
oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket
will have it.


Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out
the hydrated oxides of iron. The surface of SS is actually chromium
oxide in some sort of weird matrix which keeps the oxygen away from the
ferrous component. If you manage to set up an electrochemical cell, SS
will corrode surprisingly badly. BTDTGTTS

John Schmitt



It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the
makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear.
I've never found it effective as a wood bleach.

Interesting experience buying citric acid from SavaCentre pharmacy. No
comment till I asked for *two* lots of 100gms.
"What are you using it for?".
"To dissolve cocaine"
"Naaah, you don't look like that sort of person"
Shares a smile with her colleague and hands me the packages.

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 12:41:37 +0100, Peter
wrote:

I cleaned a kitchen sink using a tube of chrome polish I found.

Autosol ? That's a polish with very hard abrasive in it, because it's
intended for pure chrome, not necessarily stainless. It's works fine on
many metals, but it's usually slower and certainly more expensive than
it needs to be.

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:03:07 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on
oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket
will have it.

It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the
makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear.
I've never found it effective as a wood bleach.

As John said, it's particularly good on iron oxides. Its only real use
as a wood bleach is for removing metal stains, even blue iron stain on
oak.

It's good on hardwood decking, but can be a bit harsh on resinous
softwood (larch) decking. If you do use it on teak or brownwood kurtzii,
then it's important to re-oil the finish afterwards.

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:07:57 +0100, The3rd Earl Of Derby
wrote:

We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What
is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left
Blair

Bleach.

Excellent. Not. Chlorides are excellent corrosive agents for most metals.
While bleach is hypochlorite, it degenerates to the chloride both
spontaneously and in contact with reducing agents. As it does this, the
potential for an electrochemical cell exists. For machining SS,
chlorinated cutting fluids are normally used to prevent the (almost
instantaneous) formation of the very hard chromium oxide layer by instead
forming the chloride. The chloride is soft and so the tool life is greatly
prolonged.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 14:03:07 +0100, Stuart Noble
wrote:


Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take
out the hydrated oxides of iron.

It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the
makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear.
I've never found it effective as a wood bleach.

It will not as such bleach wood. However, oak (a common deck wood) stains
a dark colour on exposure to iron salts, the tannins in the oak will react
with them. Leave a piece of iron or steel on the deck and give it a bit of
salt spray and you have a deeply rooted stain. Again the oxalic acid forms
a metastable complex which is colourless. Being metastable, the colour
will return in time and require a further application.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:07:57 +0100, The3rd Earl Of Derby
wrote:

We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What
is the best method of cleaning so that marks are not left
Blair

Bleach.

Excellent. Not. Chlorides are excellent corrosive agents for most
metals. While bleach is hypochlorite, it degenerates to the chloride
both spontaneously and in contact with reducing agents. As it does
this, the potential for an electrochemical cell exists. For machining
SS, chlorinated cutting fluids are normally used to prevent the
(almost instantaneous) formation of the very hard chromium oxide
layer by instead forming the chloride. The chloride is soft and so
the tool life is greatly prolonged.

John Schmitt

Hmmm! my sink is still in its pristine condition from new 4 years ago,
allways bleach it down after washing up also makes the taps sparkle as does
the cutlery.

In the very long term your probably right, but hey i'm not interested with
the boring science of it all.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 14:03:07 +0100, Stuart Noble
wrote:


Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take
out the hydrated oxides of iron.

It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the
makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately
clear. I've never found it effective as a wood bleach.

It will not as such bleach wood. However, oak (a common deck wood)
stains a dark colour on exposure to iron salts, the tannins in the
oak will react with them. Leave a piece of iron or steel on the deck
and give it a bit of salt spray and you have a deeply rooted stain.
Again the oxalic acid forms a metastable complex which is colourless.
Being metastable, the colour will return in time and require a
further application.

John Schmitt

You must have really pi**ed your parents off.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:41:20 +0100, "Blair"
wrote:

We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left
Blair

Cillit bang works well here!

Another thumbs up for Barkeepers friend.....Asda sell it

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:03:07 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:25:21 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

[SS]

If it's filthy, then Barkeeper's Friend will shift it. It's based on
oxalic acid and a good hardware shop, kitchen shop or even supermarket
will have it.


Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take out
the hydrated oxides of iron. The surface of SS is actually chromium
oxide in some sort of weird matrix which keeps the oxygen away from the
ferrous component. If you manage to set up an electrochemical cell, SS
will corrode surprisingly badly. BTDTGTTS

John Schmitt



It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the
makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear.
I've never found it effective as a wood bleach.

Interesting experience buying citric acid from SavaCentre pharmacy. No
comment till I asked for *two* lots of 100gms.
"What are you using it for?".
"To dissolve cocaine"
"Naaah, you don't look like that sort of person"
Shares a smile with her colleague and hands me the packages.

Same with meths in Boots.

"I have to ask what you want it for?"

"I'm going to drink it".

Out I go with it, and not another word. )

(I must look rough!)

Hey-ho

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 16:37:28 +0100, Sean Mc
wrote:

Another thumbs up for Barkeepers friend.....Asda sell it

Not to me they don't - I'm not shopping at Walmart!

On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 05:41:20 +0100, "Blair"
wrote:

We have a stainless steel cooker hood which shows finger marks. What is the
best method of cleaning so that marks are not left
Blair


I've had great results using Hagesan HG Steel Polish.

www.HGinternational.com is quoted on the bottle, but I bought the
stuff a few years ago...

--
Frank Erskine

John Schmitt wrote:
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 14:03:07 +0100, Stuart Noble
wrote:


Oxalic acid only really applies to rust stains as it tends to take
out the hydrated oxides of iron.


It seems to be the basis of decking cleaners (a new must-have for the
makeover brigade). Quite what it does, and how, isn't immediately clear.
I've never found it effective as a wood bleach.


It will not as such bleach wood. However, oak (a common deck wood)
stains a dark colour on exposure to iron salts, the tannins in the oak
will react with them. Leave a piece of iron or steel on the deck and
give it a bit of salt spray and you have a deeply rooted stain. Again
the oxalic acid forms a metastable complex which is colourless. Being
metastable, the colour will return in time and require a further
application.

John Schmitt


I imagine most of what people would want to clean from decking wouldn't
be iron stains, and most of the decking wouldn't be hardwood. So, what
else is special about oxalic that it's sold as a cleaner for decking,
the bulk of which is likely to be softwood?

Then don't..........whats wrong with Asda / Walmart?????

Sean

On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 10:17:03 +0100, Stuart Noble
wrote:

I imagine most of what people would want to clean from decking wouldn't
be iron stains, and most of the decking wouldn't be hardwood. So, what
else is special about oxalic that it's sold as a cleaner for decking,
the bulk of which is likely to be softwood?

Not a lot. It tends to lighten up grey weathered wood a bit, and disodium
peroxydicarbonate is rather more effective, hydrolysing in water to give
hydrogen peroxide. The only real way to properly restore the surface is
with the traditional sailors prayerbook or bible. Nothing particularly
religious, just blocks of stone, but using them got the sailors on their
knees. Nowadays long-handled ones are supplied so you can remain standing.

John Schmitt

--
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On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 16:06:40 +0100, The3rd Earl Of Derby
wrote:

[chemistry]

You must have really pi**ed your parents off.

Bearing in mind that one was a university lecturer and the other a
teacher, probably not too much. I believe I was six when my father did
finally get a little tired of me asking too many questions and took me
down to the local library and introduced me to the librarian, a kindly
grey-haired woman who helped me to use the library, particularly when she
showed me how to use the dewey decimal system. I remember some strange
looks from adults when I was asking for them to reach down books you would
not associate with small boys, like Euclidean geometry or how to learn
Italian. As it happened my father was set to be going to Italy in the not
too distant future, and taking the family with him. The family seem to
have a flair for learning languages, my brother can do about a dozen and
my seven-year-old niece three.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

"John Schmitt" wrote:

On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 10:17:03 +0100, Stuart Noble
wrote:

The only real way to properly restore the surface is
with the traditional sailors prayerbook or bible. Nothing particularly
religious, just blocks of stone, but using them got the sailors on their
knees. Nowadays long-handled ones are supplied so you can remain standing.

To the dismay of Dr Drivel who always fancied a sailor with a wiggling
arse :-)


--

Had some of this under the kitchen sink for years - it's fantastic on
stainless steel.
www.sheilashine.com