In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dorothy Bradbury wrote:

I've an upper opening window, downstairs, with seized hinges.
o Twin 2.5" bare steel hinge, full compliment of screws (typical!)
o Hinges seized, flick penetrating oil released the hinge at least

The hinge has dropped about 1/8" or so.
o The upper-non-moving hinge plate wobbles in the screws
---- so the window has dropped 1/8" - so re-closing is impossible
o Slotted-screws seem very tight indeed & refusing to budget
---- no rot, simply the seized hinge has caused the play over decades

Q: What's the best way of getting the screws out?
---- heat with micro-torch/torch + penetrating oil + hours of
patience?
---- or grind off hinge-pins-ends & knock pin out, or grind off the
hinges-pin?

Q: Since 2.5" & 3.0" hinges are similar, can I interchange them?
---- reason is that 3.0" come in Stainless Steel :-)

The window only opens to 45 degrees, as it's outer lip hits the frame.

What works best?

If you can push the dropped hinge up - away from the screws - you may be
able to clean up the slots with a padsaw (i.e. a short length of hacksaw
blade mounted in a handle). You then need a short cranked screwdriver (sort
of Z shaped) which will fit in a confined space and give lots of leverage.
It's then a 2-person job - because you need one hand to hold the working end
of the screwdriver tightly on the screw, and the other hand to apply torque
to the other end of the screwdriver - so you need someone else to support
the window.

If you can get the screws out, replace them with screws with pozidrive
heads. However, you may be able to *tighten* them by the above method
without removing them.

There's no reason why you can't fit slightly bigger hinges (assuming you can
get the windows off). If the existing hinges are recessed into the window
and/or frame, you'll need to make the recesses bigger with a chisel. The
main problem is going to be getting screws in - due to the constraint of
only being able to open the window by 45 degrees. I think I would fit them
first to the window - out of the frame. Then mark the hinge and screw
positions on the frame. Then take the hinges off the window and screw them
to the frame. Then put the screws back in which hold the hinges to the
window. That way, you'll have better access whilst actually making the screw
holes.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
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I've an upper opening window, downstairs, with seized hinges.
o Twin 2.5" bare steel hinge, full compliment of screws (typical!)
o Hinges seized, flick penetrating oil released the hinge at least

The hinge has dropped about 1/8" or so.
o The upper-non-moving hinge plate wobbles in the screws
---- so the window has dropped 1/8" - so re-closing is impossible
o Slotted-screws seem very tight indeed & refusing to budget
---- no rot, simply the seized hinge has caused the play over decades

Q: What's the best way of getting the screws out?
---- heat with micro-torch/torch + penetrating oil + hours of patience?
---- or grind off hinge-pins-ends & knock pin out, or grind off the hinges-pin?

Q: Since 2.5" & 3.0" hinges are similar, can I interchange them?
---- reason is that 3.0" come in Stainless Steel :-)

The window only opens to 45 degrees, as it's outer lip hits the frame.

What works best?
--
Dorothy Bradbury

Q: Always wondered, can I use an "impact driver" on screws?
---- hit end with hammer = end-turns AND compressed in so no jump-out

Yes. I have had to do this many times on window hinges. I suggest though
that you first scrape off all paint etc from the screw slots and around the
screws and hinges. Also I often find that when I have used a hot air gun to
soften the paint to do this, the screws come out more easily. Won't work if
the screw slots are badly damaged though.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Dorothy Bradbury
wrote:

Q: Always wondered, can I use an "impact driver" on screws?
---- hit end with hammer = end-turns AND compressed in so no jump-out

May be ok for putting screws *in* - but wouldn't guarantee it not to jump
out. Probably better with pozidrive screws.

Wouldn't expect it to do much good taking screws *out* - 'cos the hammer
action will tend to push the screw back in!

Having said that, I don't actually own an impact driver - and others may say
that they're the best thing since sliced bread.
--
Cheers,
Set Square

If you can push the dropped hinge up - away from the screws - you may be
able to clean up the slots with a padsaw (i.e. a short length of hacksaw
blade mounted in a handle). You then need a short cranked screwdriver (sort
of Z shaped) which will fit in a confined space and give lots of leverage.

Noted on that screwdriver - screw heads are ok & will clean up ok (thankfully).

Q: Always wondered, can I use an "impact driver" on screws?
---- hit end with hammer = end-turns AND compressed in so no jump-out


It's then a 2-person job - because you need one hand to hold the working end
of the screwdriver tightly on the screw, and the other hand to apply torque
to the other end of the screwdriver - so you need someone else to support
the window.

The window will hold itself open, and do so just enough to see the "sill" screws.
The window-screws are the ones quite impossible to reach.

If you can get the screws out, replace them with screws with pozidrive
heads. However, you may be able to *tighten* them by the above method
without removing them.

Will try both. There's not a lot of

There's no reason why you can't fit slightly bigger hinges (assuming you can
get the windows off). If the existing hinges are recessed into the window
and/or frame, you'll need to make the recesses bigger with a chisel. The
main problem is going to be getting screws in - due to the constraint of
only being able to open the window by 45 degrees. I think I would fit them
first to the window - out of the frame. Then mark the hinge and screw
positions on the frame. Then take the hinges off the window and screw them
to the frame. Then put the screws back in which hold the hinges to the
window. That way, you'll have better access whilst actually making the screw
holes.

Looks like a 3" stainless (non-ball-bearing) is barely bigger and only about
1mm thicker which is pretty minor to countersink in. I have a 2.5" ready as well.

"I may be some time".
--
Dorothy Bradbury

Set Square wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Dorothy Bradbury
wrote:

Q: Always wondered, can I use an "impact driver" on screws?
---- hit end with hammer = end-turns AND compressed in so no jump-out

May be ok for putting screws *in* - but wouldn't guarantee it not to jump
out. Probably better with pozidrive screws.

Wouldn't expect it to do much good taking screws *out* - 'cos the hammer
action will tend to push the screw back in!

Having said that, I don't actually own an impact driver - and others may
say that they're the best thing since sliced bread.

Impact drivers are generally used for getting screws or bolts out,
(depending on what sort of bit you fit), and they can be extremely effective
once you get the hang of them. I have used them to good effect when removing
very old and stubborn slot screws from old window frames etc., as well as
their more usual engineering (eg automotive) applications. The best place to
get them is probably Halfords.

Rick

Window now removed :-)
o Sill provided leverage/bracing without much effort
o Older flat-blade screwdriver with a nut part way up it

That and some heat-cycling with torch & flick easing oil :-)

Now the fun - getting screws out of the window itself!
o They've seen a bit of surface corrosion
---- perhaps enough to "stick screw & hinge into one"
o So more heat & flick easing oil
---- very narrow slots on these screws

Going to use the 2.5" hinge - but with stainless screws.
That should stop the screw-to-hinge welding at least.

Moral: open your windows regularly.
--
Dorothy Bradbury

In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Dorothy Bradbury
wrote:

The into-window screws with screwdriver/spanner wouldn't budget.

I wouldn't expect them to be much good with money! g
--
Cheers,
Set Square

The into-window screws with screwdriver/spanner wouldn't budget.

o Heated them, then soaked them with flick easing oil.
o Left to cool for 1hr
o Came out as if they'd been screwed into cheese - no effort

Going with the 3" stainless hinge after all, since the original 2.5" had
the holes in different places on the two halves, so can't just replace.
Painter's going to love the state I made of his paint tho tomorrow!
--
Dorothy Bradbury