UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Bob Eager
 
Posts: n/a
Default Replace belt in Hotpoint tumble dryer?

Yes, I have to do this unenviable job...first time this dryer has failed
in over ten years. Old belt has broken...

New belt is on its way, and I've looked back in this group to find out
what I can.

I have the top off the machine, also the small panel at bottom front.
This seems to be all the access there is. I know I have to get the belt
over the motor shaft and the two idler pulleys, and I hear this is not
easy.

But...how do I get the belt over the drum in the first place? I guess I
can try and move the duct in front of the drum.... not sure how much it
moves.

All help gratefully received! Thanks...
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com

  #2   Report Post  
mrcheerful
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
Yes, I have to do this unenviable job...first time this dryer has failed
in over ten years. Old belt has broken...

New belt is on its way, and I've looked back in this group to find out
what I can.

I have the top off the machine, also the small panel at bottom front.
This seems to be all the access there is. I know I have to get the belt
over the motor shaft and the two idler pulleys, and I hear this is not
easy.

But...how do I get the belt over the drum in the first place? I guess I
can try and move the duct in front of the drum.... not sure how much it
moves.

All help gratefully received! Thanks...
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com


on my okd hotpoint tdryer, remove top, pull off knob (screw behind) and
remove switch panel(prises off), remove the front panel (screws top and
bottom) complete with door (be careful of switch wiring to door lock)
it is then easy to put the belt round the drum, it is also easy to go behind
one spring loaded wheel and round the motor shaft, you then have to devise a
way to pull the other spring loaded wheel back so that the belt can go where
it should so that each wheel is pressing on the back of the belt, this is
not too hard to do afaicr. reassemble. I usually found that the plastic
strips that support the front of the drum were either worn or broken, so you
usually need a couple of those too, or swap them top to bottom so that the
least worn are on the lower edge, a good Hoover out is a good idea too,

mrcheerful


  #3   Report Post  
Tony Williams
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:

I have the top off the machine, also the small panel at bottom
front. This seems to be all the access there is. I know I have
to get the belt over the motor shaft and the two idler pulleys,
and I hear this is not easy.


Hah! Here we go............ It's the long way round,
but does allow you to do some additional preventative
maintenance on the way.

Lay the machine on it's front, access required all round.
Electric screwdriver if poss, small spanner set, hoover,
pliers, and a small quantity of grease.

Remove the flange from the exhaust pipe, two screws.
Remove the rear bearing cover, two screws.
Remove the two large screws going into the top drop.
Remove the heater cover, multiple screws.

Hoover out the accumulated fluff, taking great care not
to touch the heaters themselves (very delicate).

Examine the thermal switches (and wiring to them) for
signs of overload/burning..... about £22 a new pair.

Remove the bronze earthing strap from the rear bearing,
two screws. Then remove the split pin and washer.

Remove the three bolts securing the fan, casually taking
note that the fan has an anti-rotation dimple that must
be properly engaged in the hub on re-assembly.

Remove all the backplate securing screws.... dozens of the
bloody things.

Lift off the backplate assembly. There is enough length
in the cabling for it to be moved over to one side. Look
out for the little square graphite'y bush that may fall
out of the rear bearing pressing.

Hoover out the accumulated fluff. Note though that if
there is large quantities of fluff in the body of the
machine then it is certain that the seal around the drum
periphery is worn and should be replaced. Note that
earlier Hotpoints had a separate nylon drum support,
which resulted in almost no wear of the drum seal.
Later Hotpoints dropped the drum support, with the
support now provided by the drum seal itself, which
(of course) results in a high wear-rate. ((((

Check the drum seal by lifting out the drum and
checking that the seal is ok, with no sign of any
metal-metal rubbing around the front rim.

Everything is now open to replace the belt.... Around
the drum first and then threaded through the two idlers
and round the motor shaft. Note that later Hotpoints
do not have the two idlers.

Whilst you are there, *carefully* put a touch of grease
onto the steel shafts of the idlers. This will prevent
a possible later (very irritating) squeak.

Now put the backplate back on, taking care to put the
cablings back as they were. Get the bearing shaft back
in place first, then roughly line up the screw holes,
especially in the vertical plane, so that the belt is
tight. Whilst holding it in place, replace the screws
along the bottom to secure the backplate in the vertical
plane. Then go round and replace all backplate screws.

Put the fan back on. Remember that antirotation dimple.

Now back to the rear bearing. A touch of grease on it,
replace the washer and split pin. Replace that bronze
earthing strap. Use the fan to turn the drum and
check that the bent over bits of the split pin do not
foul the earthing strap as the drum rotates.

If all ok, drop the heater cover back on, followed by
the bearing cover.

Refit the rest of the odds and sods.

Machine upright, reach in and *slowly* turn the drum by
hand to settle the belt.

Job done.

--
Tony Williams.
  #4   Report Post  
mrcheerful
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Tony Williams" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:

I have the top off the machine, also the small panel at bottom
front. This seems to be all the access there is. I know I have
to get the belt over the motor shaft and the two idler pulleys,
and I hear this is not easy.


Hah! Here we go............ It's the long way round,
but does allow you to do some additional preventative
maintenance on the way.

Lay the machine on it's front, access required all round.
Electric screwdriver if poss, small spanner set, hoover,
pliers, and a small quantity of grease.

Remove the flange from the exhaust pipe, two screws.
Remove the rear bearing cover, two screws.
Remove the two large screws going into the top drop.
Remove the heater cover, multiple screws.

Hoover out the accumulated fluff, taking great care not
to touch the heaters themselves (very delicate).

Examine the thermal switches (and wiring to them) for
signs of overload/burning..... about £22 a new pair.

Remove the bronze earthing strap from the rear bearing,
two screws. Then remove the split pin and washer.

Remove the three bolts securing the fan, casually taking
note that the fan has an anti-rotation dimple that must
be properly engaged in the hub on re-assembly.

Remove all the backplate securing screws.... dozens of the
bloody things.

Lift off the backplate assembly. There is enough length
in the cabling for it to be moved over to one side. Look
out for the little square graphite'y bush that may fall
out of the rear bearing pressing.

Hoover out the accumulated fluff. Note though that if
there is large quantities of fluff in the body of the
machine then it is certain that the seal around the drum
periphery is worn and should be replaced. Note that
earlier Hotpoints had a separate nylon drum support,
which resulted in almost no wear of the drum seal.
Later Hotpoints dropped the drum support, with the
support now provided by the drum seal itself, which
(of course) results in a high wear-rate. ((((

Check the drum seal by lifting out the drum and
checking that the seal is ok, with no sign of any
metal-metal rubbing around the front rim.

Everything is now open to replace the belt.... Around
the drum first and then threaded through the two idlers
and round the motor shaft. Note that later Hotpoints
do not have the two idlers.

Whilst you are there, *carefully* put a touch of grease
onto the steel shafts of the idlers. This will prevent
a possible later (very irritating) squeak.

Now put the backplate back on, taking care to put the
cablings back as they were. Get the bearing shaft back
in place first, then roughly line up the screw holes,
especially in the vertical plane, so that the belt is
tight. Whilst holding it in place, replace the screws
along the bottom to secure the backplate in the vertical
plane. Then go round and replace all backplate screws.

Put the fan back on. Remember that antirotation dimple.

Now back to the rear bearing. A touch of grease on it,
replace the washer and split pin. Replace that bronze
earthing strap. Use the fan to turn the drum and
check that the bent over bits of the split pin do not
foul the earthing strap as the drum rotates.

If all ok, drop the heater cover back on, followed by
the bearing cover.

Refit the rest of the odds and sods.

Machine upright, reach in and *slowly* turn the drum by
hand to settle the belt.

Job done.

--
Tony Williams.


I have heard it is a good idea to loop a spare belt round at the same time
and cable tie it out of the way so that the job is easier next time.


  #5   Report Post  
Tony Williams
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
mrcheerful wrote:

I have heard it is a good idea to loop a spare belt round at the
same time and cable tie it out of the way so that the job is
easier next time.


Never heard of that one. Possible good idea though.

--
Tony Williams.


  #6   Report Post  
Bob Eager
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 08:46:31 UTC, "mrcheerful
."
wrote:

on my okd hotpoint tdryer, remove top, pull off knob (screw behind) and
remove switch panel(prises off)


That's the bit that reads like a Haynes manual! I tried prising it off
but it's held with a combination of plastic posts and tubular string
clips that won't budge...

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com
  #7   Report Post  
Bob Eager
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 10:10:54 UTC, Tony Williams
wrote:

Hah! Here we go............ It's the long way round,
but does allow you to do some additional preventative
maintenance on the way.


Thanks!

Remove the flange from the exhaust pipe, two screws.
Remove the rear bearing cover, two screws.


There is nothing there held by two screws apart from the flange. Unless
you're talking inside. Thewre is one large rectangular 'box' held by
many screws. I removed all of them and nothing moved. That is, I removed
all the ones round the edge; there are more but I fear that if I undo
them, bits will fall off inside!

Remove the two large screws going into the top drop.


Sorry, don't get this bit.

Remove the heater cover, multiple screws.


Probably the bit I was talking about.

The rest seems OK but then I haven't seen inside yet!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com
  #8   Report Post  
Tony Williams
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:

Remove the rear bearing cover, two screws.


There is nothing there held by two screws apart from the flange.
Unless you're talking inside. Thewre is one large rectangular
'box' held by many screws. I removed all of them and nothing
moved. That is, I removed all the ones round the edge; there are
more but I fear that if I undo them, bits will fall off inside!


I think you have to remove all screw heads you can see. Nothing
falls off inside.

I must admit, I couldn't quite remember if the old type
hotpoint actually had a bearing cover. If you can already
see the bearing and the rear shaft of the drum then there
is no bearing cover to remove.

Remove the two large screws going into the top drop.


Sorry, don't get this bit.


Yes, I was being a little slippery there, because (again)
I couldn't exactly remember what happened on the old type.

AFAIR, where the rear backplate reaches the top cover
there are some extra screws to remove in order to finally
release the backplate.

--
Tony Williams.
  #9   Report Post  
mrcheerful
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 08:46:31 UTC, "mrcheerful
."
wrote:

on my okd hotpoint tdryer, remove top, pull off knob (screw behind) and
remove switch panel(prises off)


That's the bit that reads like a Haynes manual! I tried prising it off
but it's held with a combination of plastic posts and tubular string
clips that won't budge...


If your model is the same as the one I am thinking of, the switch/lights
panel has to be prised off to reveal the top row of screws that hold the
front panel on, on mine the spring clips were retained in the metal work and
the posts are pushed into them, therefore removal was brute force and
ignorance to get them to move, by the time I junked mine they almost fell
off !

mrcheerful


  #10   Report Post  
Bob Eager
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 19:27:16 UTC, "mrcheerful
."
wrote:

If your model is the same as the one I am thinking of, the switch/lights
panel has to be prised off to reveal the top row of screws that hold the
front panel on, on mine the spring clips were retained in the metal work


Ah, now that makes sense. I'm probably going to take the back off
anyway...

Hope the belt arrives tomorrow...last night I was fixing a leak in the
washing machine (one new cable tie).

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com


  #11   Report Post  
Bob Eager
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 10:10:54 UTC, Tony Williams
wrote:

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:

I have the top off the machine, also the small panel at bottom
front. This seems to be all the access there is. I know I have
to get the belt over the motor shaft and the two idler pulleys,
and I hear this is not easy.


Hah! Here we go............ It's the long way round,
but does allow you to do some additional preventative
maintenance on the way.


(good advice snipped)

Indeed...job done! Thanks for the detailed help...only difference was
the lack of separate bearing cover. New belt arrived this morning,
finally got round to it this evening and it was all pretty quick
(including the preventive maintenance).

Much easier than the washing machine bearings were....

Thanks again!
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com
  #12   Report Post  
Tony Williams
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:

Indeed...job done! Thanks for the detailed help...only difference
was the lack of separate bearing cover. New belt arrived this
morning, finally got round to it this evening and it was all
pretty quick (including the preventive maintenance).


Well done.

--
Tony Williams.
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tumble dryer vent Dave UK diy 2 May 24th 05 03:11 PM
Tumble Dryer Marsha UK diy 15 February 17th 05 03:00 PM
Flat Belt Drives [email protected] Metalworking 18 December 10th 04 05:33 PM
Hotpoint tumble dryer smells! Bob Eager UK diy 5 November 30th 04 05:43 PM
Replace bearings in Hotpoint WM64 washing machine BigWallop UK diy 23 May 27th 04 05:30 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:27 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"