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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Replacing skirting board
I wish to replace 95mm skirting board with 145mm skirting board. Some
advice please - 1. Once I have taken off the old stuff , I will need to back-fill the now exposed brick - do I have to plaster ? Alternatives ? 2. I notice from postings that some people have glued skirting - is this really going to work with 145mm stuff ? 3. Along one wall, I could lay a 4m length - is this wise i.e. warping, cupping etc ? Do I need to acclimatise the wood as one does when laying T&G flooring, for example ? 4. And as to using a Mitre saw to get good joins... Thanks - will start when the rains come ! -- Phil |
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Replacing skirting board
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#3
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Replacing skirting board
In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes In article , (Phil) writes: I wish to replace 95mm skirting board with 145mm skirting board. Some advice please - 1. Once I have taken off the old stuff , I will need to back-fill the now exposed brick - do I have to plaster ? Alternatives ? Why? Plaster doesn't normally go down to the floor for lots of reasons. Since you are fitting taller skirting boards, there should be no filling in required, unless you have pulled the plaster off too. If there is a largish gap, or if it is uneven, drill, plug and screw in screws along where the base of the skirting will go, these can be adjusted so that the skirting sits flat against them. 2. I notice from postings that some people have glued skirting - is this really going to work with 145mm stuff ? Personally, I would screw it, or nail it if you are confident at doing that. I have glued it, and it would probably be fine, but I normally screw. Esp. on our walls as they are so uneven. 4. And as to using a Mitre saw to get good joins... not as hard as it looks, internal corners are normally scribed and cut. I've used a cheap hand compound mitre saw from Screwfix for doing external ones (and some internal ones) -- Chris French, Leeds |
#4
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Replacing skirting board
1. Once I have taken off the old stuff , I will need to back-fill the
now exposed brick - do I have to plaster ? Alternatives ? No. Don't plaster to the bottom, or it will wick up any moisture or be cracked when the floorboards flex. 2. I notice from postings that some people have glued skirting - is this really going to work with 145mm stuff ? No. Use screws if possible. Then your expensive and labour intensive work cutting the boards isn't wasted when you need to remove the skirting to install flooring or chase out electrical runs etc. Nailing is a right pain, especially in hard brick or concrete block. Gluing doesn't handle warping or uneven surfaces well. Both nail and gluing will likely lead to destruction of the boards if removal is required. 3. Along one wall, I could lay a 4m length - is this wise i.e. warping, cupping etc ? Do I need to acclimatise the wood as one does when laying T&G flooring, for example ? It is best to. However, with enough screws, even a warped board will be held flat. It is better to use a complete length than attempt to butt join, which always looks pants. 4. And as to using a Mitre saw to get good joins... Use a mitre saw for outside corners. Use mitre glue. This is a special superglue that you get a perfect external corner with. For inside corners, cut one board straight and scribe the other board to fit over it. You will have a much better join with smaller, more fillable gaps that give you some leeway on the exact board length, especially on the straight cut board. Christian. |
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Replacing skirting board
Christian McArdle wrote in message 3f375d34$0$15038 No. Don't plaster to the bottom, or it will wick up any moisture or be cracked when the floorboards flex. The skirting should have a solid backing in case you have carpet fitted. With voids behind it will cave in when the carpet is stretched 2. I notice from postings that some people have glued skirting - is this really going to work with 145mm stuff ? Sure it is. Gripfil is very flexible but you need to use it generously (one cartridge per 4m) No. Use screws if possible. Then your expensive and labour intensive work cutting the boards isn't wasted when you need to remove the skirting to install flooring or chase out electrical runs etc. I'm guessing this has already been done. with enough screws, even a warped board will be held flat. Nah, let the board sit where it wants and fill the gaps. If it isn't fairly straight, take it back. There is no reason for quality skirting to distort. Shrink it will, but twist it shouldn't. Trying to counter the stress in a 4m board with fixings will only result in cracks. |
#6
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Replacing skirting board
Phil wrote:
I wish to replace 95mm skirting board with 145mm skirting board. Some advice please - 1. Once I have taken off the old stuff , I will need to back- fill the now exposed brick-do I have to plaster? Alternatives? What are the walls made of? Plaster and lathe, lime plaster on brick, render/gypsum plaster on brick, plasterboard, or what? This is quite important regarding what you may find underneath and how you attach the new board. 2. I notice from postings that some people have glued skirting - is this really going to work with 145mm stuff ? Well, it may, but it is not my preferred method at all! 3. Along one wall, I could lay a 4m length - is this wise i.e. warping, cupping etc ? Do I need to acclimatise the wood as one does when laying T&G flooring, for example ? Yes, it is a good idea. I would NOT "acclimatise" the timber, fix it down as soon as you get it in this case to minimise cupping. Leave it there (fixed) for a bit before decorating. 4. And as to using a Mitre saw to get good joins... No, scribe them (internal corners) or mark out and cut with a panel saw (g.p. saw) (external corners). Anyway, first, what are the walls made of? __________________________________________________ ______________ Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com |
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