RCMers,

I've recently gotten a question forwarded to me by a friend on a
mailing list. The original question was:

================================================== ====================
Some of my Greenlees are probably 20+ years old now and the cutting
sections have become dulled. These are expensive boogers to just
toss out and replace, so how can they be resharpened?
================================================== ====================

to which I replied:

================================================== ====================
Well ... *I* would try grinding back the points and edges on the
punch -- on the inside, not touching the outside. I suspect the points
to have experienced the worst dulling I would probably use a die grinder
for the purpose -- either one powered by compressed air, or an electric
one, with the punch held in a vise, or bolted down to the workbench by a
screw into the dive screw hole.

If the edges in the die are also rounded, you've got less meat
to grind back there -- but I would do *that* on a surface grinder to
make sure that it is evenly reduced all the way around.

Note -- as you grind back ether, you will be increasing the gap
between punch and die -- and thus possible burr from the punching
operation. This is because both punch and die are slightly tapered, to
keep them from binding in the workpiece.

If you want, I can post the question on rec.crafts.metalworking,
and try to gather it all together for you. Be warned that things are
likely to drift off topic.
================================================== ====================

And his latest return is:

================================================== ====================
I think that what he's really interested in is knowing what kind of
shop he might take it to to get it sharpened. He's an electronics
tech, not a machinist. Remember R & M Saw and Tool around the Navy
Yard? They would probably know what to do with it, but I don't know if
there are shops like that any more. He's in Oklahoma City.

Toss it out to the Metalworking newsgroup and see what happens.
Suggest that someone might know of a sharpening service that's smart
enough (with your excellent analysis) to know which end to blow into.
================================================== ====================

So -- any suggestions (including corrections to what I
suggested)? I'll try to bundle up everything which comes back
reasonably on topic and pass it on. In particular, suggestions of who
could do the task in the Oklahoma City area would be welcome.

Thanks,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Franz tool would be the best place to take the units for
sharpening. They are located just west of the Red Dog on NW 10th
west of McArthur.

Their specialty is saw blades, but if for some reason they can't
work on the punches, I'm sure they will know a place to send you.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
RCMers,

I've recently gotten a question forwarded to me by a friend on a
mailing list. The original question was:

================================================== ====================
Some of my Greenlees are probably 20+ years old now and the
cutting
sections have become dulled. These are expensive boogers to
just
toss out and replace, so how can they be resharpened?
================================================== ====================

to which I replied:

================================================== ====================
Well ... *I* would try grinding back the points and
edges on the
punch -- on the inside, not touching the outside. I suspect
the points
to have experienced the worst dulling I would probably use a
die grinder
for the purpose -- either one powered by compressed air, or an
electric
one, with the punch held in a vise, or bolted down to the
workbench by a
screw into the dive screw hole.

If the edges in the die are also rounded, you've got
less meat
to grind back there -- but I would do *that* on a surface
grinder to
make sure that it is evenly reduced all the way around.

Note -- as you grind back ether, you will be increasing
the gap
between punch and die -- and thus possible burr from the
punching
operation. This is because both punch and die are slightly
tapered, to
keep them from binding in the workpiece.

If you want, I can post the question on
rec.crafts.metalworking,
and try to gather it all together for you. Be warned that
things are
likely to drift off topic.
================================================== ====================

And his latest return is:

================================================== ====================
I think that what he's really interested in is knowing what
kind of
shop he might take it to to get it sharpened. He's an
electronics
tech, not a machinist. Remember R & M Saw and Tool around the
Navy
Yard? They would probably know what to do with it, but I don't
know if
there are shops like that any more. He's in Oklahoma City.

Toss it out to the Metalworking newsgroup and see what happens.
Suggest that someone might know of a sharpening service that's
smart
enough (with your excellent analysis) to know which end to blow
into.
================================================== ====================

So -- any suggestions (including corrections to what I
suggested)? I'll try to bundle up everything which comes back
reasonably on topic and pass it on. In particular, suggestions
of who
could do the task in the Oklahoma City area would be welcome.

Thanks,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703)
938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. |
http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article A5f1e.48223$3z.9885@okepread03, DanG wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message

So -- any suggestions (including corrections to what I
suggested)? I'll try to bundle up everything which comes back
reasonably on topic and pass it on. In particular, suggestions
of who
could do the task in the Oklahoma City area would be welcome.

Franz tool would be the best place to take the units for
sharpening. They are located just west of the Red Dog on NW 10th
west of McArthur.

Their specialty is saw blades, but if for some reason they can't
work on the punches, I'm sure they will know a place to send you.

Thanks! I've passed it on, and hopefully when it reaches the
end of the chain we will have a happy chassis punch user.

Again thanks,
DoN.

P.S. A lot less in the way of responses than I expected, but this
looks like a good one, which is what matters.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Since OKC is a good size city, have your friend look for tool and die makers
in the phone book.


--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
RCMers,

I've recently gotten a question forwarded to me by a friend on a
mailing list. The original question was:

================================================== ====================
Some of my Greenlees are probably 20+ years old now and the cutting
sections have become dulled. These are expensive boogers to just
toss out and replace, so how can they be resharpened?
================================================== ====================

to which I replied:

================================================== ====================
Well ... *I* would try grinding back the points and edges on the
punch -- on the inside, not touching the outside. I suspect the points
to have experienced the worst dulling I would probably use a die grinder
for the purpose -- either one powered by compressed air, or an electric
one, with the punch held in a vise, or bolted down to the workbench by a
screw into the dive screw hole.

If the edges in the die are also rounded, you've got less meat
to grind back there -- but I would do *that* on a surface grinder to
make sure that it is evenly reduced all the way around.

Note -- as you grind back ether, you will be increasing the gap
between punch and die -- and thus possible burr from the punching
operation. This is because both punch and die are slightly tapered, to
keep them from binding in the workpiece.

If you want, I can post the question on rec.crafts.metalworking,
and try to gather it all together for you. Be warned that things are
likely to drift off topic.
================================================== ====================

And his latest return is:

================================================== ====================
I think that what he's really interested in is knowing what kind of
shop he might take it to to get it sharpened. He's an electronics
tech, not a machinist. Remember R & M Saw and Tool around the Navy
Yard? They would probably know what to do with it, but I don't know if
there are shops like that any more. He's in Oklahoma City.

Toss it out to the Metalworking newsgroup and see what happens.
Suggest that someone might know of a sharpening service that's smart
enough (with your excellent analysis) to know which end to blow into.
================================================== ====================

So -- any suggestions (including corrections to what I
suggested)? I'll try to bundle up everything which comes back
reasonably on topic and pass it on. In particular, suggestions of who
could do the task in the Oklahoma City area would be welcome.

Thanks,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---