Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
How would you cut the top off a 500 gallon underground gas tank?
I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used
it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of it and I don't want to demolish the shed. I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so it's decommisioned once and for all. I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle grinder. I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? I'd like to remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
davefr wrote:
Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? Could you fill it with water, and pump it out after. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
You don't really need to cut the top off the tank to fill it with sand.
There should be 4 2" fittings on the top, remove all the pipes and fill it through the fittings. Use clean dry sand and it won't take that long. I don't know where your located, but if the tank is a homeowner tank, no one really keeps track of them. Just fill it with sand, and if your worried about some one using it, cap it with concrete. gary "davefr" wrote in message ... I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of it and I don't want to demolish the shed. I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so it's decommisioned once and for all. I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle grinder. I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? I'd like to remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I abandoned a 4000 gallon gas tank after the 1998 EPA regs came into
effect. Filled with water (from the nearby hydrant) until water came out the vent pipe. Then sawcut and jackhammered throught the slab to get to the tank, Sawzalled a 2x2 square, then pumped out the water (your supposed to have a vac truck properly dispose of the contaminated water), then filled with concrete slurry (3 truck loads). You need to fill the tank with slurry to prevent explosive vapors from forming in the future, or you need to wash the tank and make sure there are zero detectable hydrocarbons, there are special meters that do such a thing, my way is easier. Tony "davefr" wrote in message ... I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of it and I don't want to demolish the shed. I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so it's decommisioned once and for all. I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle grinder. I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? I'd like to remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"davefr"
| I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used | it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. | | Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of | it and I don't want to demolish the shed. | | I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so | it's decommissioned once and for all. | | I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks | are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this | tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. | | I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though | it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get | dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle | grinder. | | I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. | | Anyone know how underground tanks are decommissioned? I'd like to | remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. | | Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as | injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive | them out? | | Other suggestions? Fill it with sand. No cutting needed and if you ever have to reactivate the tank (assuming it has not rusted trough) just vacuum the sand out of the tank. Don't laugh they've been doing this with decommissioned service stations for years. As to making the tank 'gas free' use live steam. Again the oil industry has been doing things this was for over 50 years that I know of personally and likely longer. A sawsall or pneumatic chisel can still generated sufficient heat/sparks to cause problems. As to using an inert gas to drive out the fuel vapor, it's only necessary to drive out the air (O2 actually) |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Filling it with sand sounds like a good option. Do you just make a
big funnel and shovel it in? I know my tank has 2 large fittings at each end but I'll have to check if there are additional plugs in the middle section. I'm guessing 2.5 - 3 cubic yards of sand should be enough.. I'm not too keen on the idea of flushing with water. If there's dried up leaded gasoline on the inner walls, I'd just soon it remain undisturbed. On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 00:34:13 GMT, "Gary Owens" wrote: You don't really need to cut the top off the tank to fill it with sand. There should be 4 2" fittings on the top, remove all the pipes and fill it through the fittings. Use clean dry sand and it won't take that long. I don't know where your located, but if the tank is a homeowner tank, no one really keeps track of them. Just fill it with sand, and if your worried about some one using it, cap it with concrete. gary "davefr" wrote in message .. . I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of it and I don't want to demolish the shed. I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so it's decommisioned once and for all. I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle grinder. I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? I'd like to remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
davefr wrote:
I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of it and I don't want to demolish the shed. I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so it's decommisioned once and for all. I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle grinder. I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? I'd like to remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? One trick I've seen is to run a hose from an exhaust pipe of a running engine. The exhaust gases will drive out the gas fumes. Dean ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
"davefr" wrote in message ... | Filling it with sand sounds like a good option. Do you just make a | big funnel and shovel it in? I know my tank has 2 large fittings at | each end but I'll have to check if there are additional plugs in the | middle section. | | I'm guessing 2.5 - 3 cubic yards of sand should be enough.. | | I'm not too keen on the idea of flushing with water. If there's dried | up leaded gasoline on the inner walls, I'd just soon it remain | undisturbed. | Use a small air compressor and a DIY sand blasting rig. Only caution don't sniff the exhaust from the tank g Might have to top it off in a day or so after the sand settles a bit. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"Ignoramus14003" | Even easier (and safer) would be to put down a hose from a compressor, | and let it pump air for a day, while at the same time trying to smell | the air coming out. I would think that if there is no perceptible | smell, including from an air sample from the bottom, there should not | be much risk of an explosion. But, better safe than sorry. I would not want to bet my life on that option. Especially since the simple act of cutting can release more fumes. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Be careful. In the tank removal industry they use dry ice to displace the
volatiles within the tank. We usually break about 20 lbs. of dry ice into pieces small enough to place down the 2" fill pipe. After sniffing no hydrocarbons with a tester (usually 10-24 hours) we would excavate and either remove the tank, or wash in place and then remove. Be very careful with all tanks. There have been many instances of purged tanks, at scrap yards, exploding and killing people months and years after purging. The product is imbedded on the walls of the tank and evaporates for a long, long time. e.g. tanks that are properly cleaned and safe can become dangerous by letting them sit for a long time. If you fill the tank, a weak concrete slurry is typical. I don't remember from my engineering days what the porosity is for sand, but, rest assured that uniformly graded sand is probably 20% voids and can hold volatile hydrocarbons making them dangerous. Ivan Vegvary "davefr" wrote in message ... I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of it and I don't want to demolish the shed. I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so it's decommisioned once and for all. I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle grinder. I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? I'd like to remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 04:41:47 +0000, Ivan Vegvary wrote: ...
Be very careful with all tanks. There have been many instances of purged tanks, at scrap yards, exploding and killing people months and years after purging. The product is imbedded on the walls of the tank and evaporates for a long, long time. e.g. tanks that are properly cleaned and safe can become dangerous by letting them sit for a long time. ... Years ago, a man brought some sort or tank or drum that had held gasoline in to the shop where my father worked. Don't recall if he wanted it welded or cut, but my father refused to do it. Then, to demonstrate that he'd gotten the tank "clean", the man lit a (wood) match and stuck his hand in the tank. He hadn't. Also, what about the glop that's left when gas deteriorates/evaporates; is it flammible? |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
One trick I've seen is to run a hose from an exhaust pipe of a running engine. The exhaust gases will drive out the gas fumes. Even easier (and safer) would be to put down a hose from a compressor, and let it pump air for a day, while at the same time trying to smell the air coming out. I would think that if there is no perceptible smell, including from an air sample from the bottom, there should not be much risk of an explosion. But, better safe than sorry. i The exhaust idea sounds a lot better than the compressed air. Haven't you ever seen the fuel delivery guy drop his cigarette but down the hole at the gas station? No air down there to support combustion... |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Ignoramus14003 wrote:
Even easier (and safer) would be to put down a hose from a compressor, A compressor does not pump enough cubage. They are intended for pressure. and let it pump air for a day, while at the same time trying to smell the air coming out. I would think that if there is no perceptible smell, including from an air sample from the bottom, there should not be much risk of an explosion. But, better safe than sorry. I get a numb nose and cannot smell anything after about the third whiff. (No, not huffing. Gas mixed with 2-stroke smells different from straight gas, and it's easy to get the cans mixed up after they've been sitting for a few weeks.) |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I could also tape a flexible dryer hose to the outlet tube of a leaf
blower and vent it out for awhile. However that would could also create a perfect blast furnace. I really like the dry ice idea. Do supermarkets sell dry ice these days?? Is there any common source for getting dry ice?? On 13 Mar 2005 03:17:46 GMT, Ignoramus14003 wrote: On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 20:16:31 -0600, Dean Hoffman wrote: davefr wrote: I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of it and I don't want to demolish the shed. I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so it's decommisioned once and for all. I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle grinder. I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? I'd like to remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? One trick I've seen is to run a hose from an exhaust pipe of a running engine. The exhaust gases will drive out the gas fumes. Even easier (and safer) would be to put down a hose from a compressor, and let it pump air for a day, while at the same time trying to smell the air coming out. I would think that if there is no perceptible smell, including from an air sample from the bottom, there should not be much risk of an explosion. But, better safe than sorry. i |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
I read the whole string of other comments and just have to make my own:
sometimes it's just better to do something right. Move the shed, get a backhoe to pull it out and haul it off. Tank is probably 4' in diameter, 5' long, perhaps 400 pounds. Then it is done and gone, no further worries. Next door neighbors had a 1000 gallon fuel oil tank buried underneath thier 2 car garage floor. Even that took only about 4 hours to remove. davefr wrote: I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of it and I don't want to demolish the shed. I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so it's decommisioned once and for all. I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle grinder. I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? I'd like to remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
In article , ignoramus3883
@NOSPAM.3883.invalid says... On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 06:27:20 -0800, Offbreed wrote: Ignoramus14003 wrote: Even easier (and safer) would be to put down a hose from a compressor, A compressor does not pump enough cubage. They are intended for pressure. Mine pumps about 11 cfm at about 120 PSI, continuously. It is about 100 CFM uncompressed. I would say that it is quite a bit. After a day of pumping, it would pump 144,000 cubic feet of uncompressed air. For a 500 gallon tank, which is 70 cubic feet, the day of pumping is 2,000 times the volume of the tank. Assuming it's rated honestly, your compressor pumps 11 SCFM of air at atmospheric pressure and temperature when it's delivering 120 psi at the outlet - closer to 200 air changes. I'd also reconsider drawing a potentially explosive mixture into the compressor where it will be compressed and heated. If you really wanted to do this (I don't think it addresses the OP's concerns, and I'm not recommending it), drawing the fumes through a gasoline engine might be a safer approach. Ned Simmons |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
I would go with the concrete idea, but you may be able to do it on the
cheap. Contact concrete suppliers in your area, and ask them if you can have the extra cement mix after the trucks do their pour. There is almost always a surplus of cement in the mix truck after a foundation/footing pour, and they have a limited amount of time to get it out, and it can be a problem of where to put it (it is often buried at the jobsite, to the chagrin of a homeowner who later tries to dig out the spot). If your location is not too remote, they will gladly take it to you. Just be sure you are there when they come and have the job prepared, otherwise they will dump it in a pile on your property, rather than have it set up in the truck mixer. It will take awhile, be patient. They will also want to rinse the mixer with a hose, no problem for this type of pour since concrete quality is not that important in your application. Best wishes for your project.-Jitney |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Ivan Vegvary wrote:
If you fill the tank, a weak concrete slurry is typical. I don't remember from my engineering days what the porosity is for sand, but, rest assured that uniformly graded sand is probably 20% voids and can hold volatile hydrocarbons making them dangerous. If the tank is completely filled with sand it should be safe. Gas fumes aren't dangerous, it's gas-air mixtures that are. You need a large continuous volume too (large meaning a pint or so) for the flame front to propagate and grow in size, speed and power. Start with a sphere and it's really dangerous, spread the same volume out in pipes and it's much less so - the pipes absorb some of the energy, and they also prevent the reaction from going to completion in the small volumes closest to the walls, the gas there can't get hot enough. The tiny holes in bulk sand are sufficiently small and dispersed and surrounded by sand so that even if one ignited* the sand would quickly damp out the flame and it would not spread. * this would actually be impossible, with the cold sand forming the walls of the cavity so close Hard to fill a tank with sand so that there are no large voids though, and hard to be sure. Same with filling it with concrete, will there still be any large voids? Because they _will_ fill with fumes, even through concrete, if there are any fumes to be had (and if there aren't any, then it doesn't matter anyway). -- Peter Fairbrother |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 07:59:39 -0500, "Lucky Strike"
wrote: The exhaust idea sounds a lot better than the compressed air. Haven't you ever seen the fuel delivery guy drop his cigarette but down the hole at the gas station? No air down there to support combustion... You hope. In theory, or under precisely controlled conditions, yes you can extinguish a burning match in liquid gasoline. In practice...? I sure don't want to be there the day someone tries that cigarette trick and the vapor recovery system is screwed up, to where it has sucked in an above-LEL level of atmospheric oxygen in the tank. They'll hear that sucker go BOOM! in the next state, and they'll be picking up pieces of the delivery driver with tweezers. "No brains, No headaches." -- Bruce -- -- Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545 Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
They'll hear that sucker go BOOM! in the next state, and they'll be picking up pieces of the delivery driver with tweezers. Years ago when I drove taxi, another driver fuelled up his propane powered cab one winters day. The overflow valve had frozen shut so the driver bent over with a bic lighter and decided to thaw it out. It thawed. No - It didn't go kaboom, but he lost all the hair on his face and suffered some interesting burn patterns in the process. Yah I know it's a little off the subject but this thread has brought back some interesting recollections of my days of driving propane powered taxis. |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
davefr wrote:
I could also tape a flexible dryer hose to the outlet tube of a leaf blower and vent it out for awhile. However that would could also create a perfect blast furnace. I'm not comfortable with the idea of betting airing out will do the job well enough. Too many tanks started stinking after they set a while, no matter how well I aired them out, or washed them out. (Unless I used really hot water.) I really like the dry ice idea. Do supermarkets sell dry ice these days?? Is there any common source for getting dry ice?? That can be tricky to find. Gell ice is air shippable, dry ice is not. Some places quit carrying it. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
"Lucky Strike" wrote in message ... | | One trick I've seen is to run a hose from an exhaust pipe of | a running | engine. The exhaust gases will drive out the gas fumes. | | Even easier (and safer) would be to put down a hose from a compressor, | and let it pump air for a day, while at the same time trying to smell | the air coming out. I would think that if there is no perceptible | smell, including from an air sample from the bottom, there should not | be much risk of an explosion. But, better safe than sorry. | | i | | The exhaust idea sounds a lot better than the compressed air. | | Haven't you ever seen the fuel delivery guy drop his cigarette but down the | hole at the gas station? No air down there to support combustion... And you sat around, watched and did nothing? |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
"Ignoramus3883" wrote in message ... | On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 06:27:20 -0800, Offbreed wrote: | Ignoramus14003 wrote: | | Even easier (and safer) would be to put down a hose from a compressor, | | A compressor does not pump enough cubage. They are intended for pressure. | | Mine pumps about 11 cfm at about 120 PSI, continuously. It is about | 100 CFM uncompressed. I would say that it is quite a bit. After a day | of pumping, it would pump 144,000 cubic feet of uncompressed air. For | a 500 gallon tank, which is 70 cubic feet, the day of pumping is 2,000 | times the volume of the tank. Unless you have a sure way to verify that the tank is gas free you have better odds in Vegas. At least there you lose only your money. |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
I guess I should pipe up here since this is an area I have some experience
in. When we remove underground tanks for disposal, we throw a pile of dry ice in prior to doing anything. The idea is that the CO2 released will gradually fill the tank with a gas which does not support combustion. I have never had to cut into an UST, the dry ice is added just for digging it out safely. Cutting into one sounds like it could evoke the Darwin Effect. Good luck. John "Offbreed" wrote in message ... Ignoramus14003 wrote: Even easier (and safer) would be to put down a hose from a compressor, A compressor does not pump enough cubage. They are intended for pressure. and let it pump air for a day, while at the same time trying to smell the air coming out. I would think that if there is no perceptible smell, including from an air sample from the bottom, there should not be much risk of an explosion. But, better safe than sorry. I get a numb nose and cannot smell anything after about the third whiff. (No, not huffing. Gas mixed with 2-stroke smells different from straight gas, and it's easy to get the cans mixed up after they've been sitting for a few weeks.) |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
davefr wrote in news:r84731pp2go7hd9vte21kr93r0q36llb2l@
4ax.com: I'm guessing 2.5 - 3 cubic yards of sand should be enough.. Pretty good guess. 500 gallons = 2.48 cubic yards. Dan |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for all the replies. The job is done.
I used the dry ice method to purge the fumes. Then I used my cordless Sawzall to decapitate a 2' X 6' section of the top. (it actually cut easier then I thought). The inner walls and bottom looked clean and in good condition so I just filled it with dirt and compacted it as best I could. Cost: $15 for 10# of dry ice $8 for a 5 pack of bi metal Sawzall blades. About $5 in tractor diesel getting fill dirt $28 Total (not including a couple gin and tonics for my sore back) On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 15:52:07 -0800, davefr wrote: I buried a 500 gallon gas tank in the late '70's for farm use. I used it for about 10 years and then pumped it dry. Complete removal is impractical since a small shed is built on top of it and I don't want to demolish the shed. I'd really like to cut the top off and fill it with rock or dirt so it's decommisioned once and for all. I checked with the state DEQ office and they told me 500 gallon tanks are unregulated. My only obligation is to report a spill but this tank never leaked since I quit using it very early in it's life. I'm not too fond of the idea of using a cutting torch. Even though it's totally dry there could still be fumes and I don't want to get dead. For the same reason, I really don't want to use an angle grinder. I'm thinking sawsall or pneumatic chisel. Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? I'd like to remove a 5' X 2' portion of it's top. Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
"SHIVER ME TIMBERS" wrote in message ... Bruce L. Bergman wrote: They'll hear that sucker go BOOM! in the next state, and they'll be picking up pieces of the delivery driver with tweezers. Years ago when I drove taxi, another driver fuelled up his propane powered cab one winters day. The overflow valve had frozen shut so the driver bent over with a bic lighter and decided to thaw it out. It thawed. No - It didn't go kaboom, but he lost all the hair on his face and suffered some interesting burn patterns in the process. Yah I know it's a little off the subject but this thread has brought back some interesting recollections of my days of driving propane powered taxis. He lit A match To check His tank. That's why They called him Skinless Frank. BURMA SHAVE (Seen from the backseat of a '56 Pontiac somewhere in Southern Illinois, about 1958). Garrett Fulton ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
fill it with concrete?
Pat "SHIVER ME TIMBERS" wrote in message ... davefr wrote: Is there a safe way to make 100% sure the tank is vented such as injecting an inert gas that's heavier then gasoline fumes to drive them out? Other suggestions? Could you fill it with water, and pump it out after. |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Peter Fairbrother wrote:
The tiny holes in bulk sand are sufficiently small and dispersed and surrounded by sand so that even if one ignited* the sand would quickly damp out the flame and it would not spread. * this would actually be impossible, with the cold sand forming the walls of the cavity so close Hard to fill a tank with sand so that there are no large voids though, and hard to be sure. Same with filling it with concrete, will there still be any large voids? Because they _will_ fill with fumes, even through concrete, if there are any fumes to be had (and if there aren't any, then it doesn't matter anyway). I would use sand, and a concrete poker to make sure there's no voids. Also - anyone familiar with a "desert burner" (1) Basically, it's a bucket full of sand and petrol (gasoline), making sure there are no puddles on the surface. Drop a match on and it burns (controllably) for a good five or six hours. Don't know if this will work in an enclosed tank. -- BigEgg |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:16:33 -0500, "Pat Ford"
wrote: fill it with concrete? Pat Why not just dig the D*** thing out and be done with it. If you try to hide it, it will come back and haunt you! Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#31
|
|||
|
|||
The way you weld a gas line that is less say 24" is to put dry ice in
the pipe. you block it off on one end and put about 40 pounds of dry ice in a bucket of water lit gas off and weld away. Larry On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 19:56:57 -0000, "bigegg" wrote: Peter Fairbrother wrote: The tiny holes in bulk sand are sufficiently small and dispersed and surrounded by sand so that even if one ignited* the sand would quickly damp out the flame and it would not spread. * this would actually be impossible, with the cold sand forming the walls of the cavity so close Hard to fill a tank with sand so that there are no large voids though, and hard to be sure. Same with filling it with concrete, will there still be any large voids? Because they _will_ fill with fumes, even through concrete, if there are any fumes to be had (and if there aren't any, then it doesn't matter anyway). I would use sand, and a concrete poker to make sure there's no voids. Also - anyone familiar with a "desert burner" (1) Basically, it's a bucket full of sand and petrol (gasoline), making sure there are no puddles on the surface. Drop a match on and it burns (controllably) for a good five or six hours. Don't know if this will work in an enclosed tank. |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
Anyone know how underground tanks are decomisioned? They are filled with sand and plugged. - GWE |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
75 gallon gas hot water heater | Home Repair | |||
How Tall Are 30 Gallon Metal Trash Cans | Woodworking | |||
45 gallon oil drums support weight? | Home Repair | |||
OT Five Gallon Bucket Fly Traps | Metalworking | |||
60 gallon air compressor | Metalworking |