I'm new to metal working and purchased an Interapid 312B-1 dial test
indicator to help with milling setup, eg, vise alignment, finding hole
centers, edge finding, etc.

The indicator has the contact point positioned approx. 45 degrees from
vertical (pointed out toward the front of the indicator).

Was hoping someone could recommend a contact point angle setting and
how to re-position the contact point? Most of the pictures I've seen
show the contact point set at vertical. However I've noted that the
contact point for this indicator needs to be set at 12 deg. to the work
piece for accurate readings. Based on the parts diagram posted online,
the contact point apparently has a 210 deg. range of motion.

I attempted to loosen the two screws (one on each side of the housing)
that hold the contact point pivot bushing, but could not get them to
turn. Didn't want to apply additional force to loosen them until I was
sure this was the correct procedure?

Also, the indicator contact point is tapered to a point versus the
0.08" dia. ballend contact point that I believe is standard with new
indicators. Can someone please tell me which contact point is best
suited to my intended uses?

Thanks.

Scott

"Scott" wrote in news:1108660216.069662.318640
@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

I'm new to metal working and purchased an Interapid 312B-1 dial test
indicator to help with milling setup, eg, vise alignment, finding hole
centers, edge finding, etc.

The indicator has the contact point positioned approx. 45 degrees from
vertical (pointed out toward the front of the indicator).

Was hoping someone could recommend a contact point angle setting and
how to re-position the contact point? Most of the pictures I've seen
show the contact point set at vertical. However I've noted that the
contact point for this indicator needs to be set at 12 deg. to the work
piece for accurate readings. Based on the parts diagram posted online,
the contact point apparently has a 210 deg. range of motion.

I attempted to loosen the two screws (one on each side of the housing)
that hold the contact point pivot bushing, but could not get them to
turn. Didn't want to apply additional force to loosen them until I was
sure this was the correct procedure?

Also, the indicator contact point is tapered to a point versus the
0.08" dia. ballend contact point that I believe is standard with new
indicators. Can someone please tell me which contact point is best
suited to my intended uses?


The Interapid indicator is designed to be used with the tip set at an
angle as you mentioned. To change the angle of the tip just push it. It
has a friction fit and will move after you reach the end of the travel.
There is no need to loosen anything. The contact point that came with the
indicator should be fine for what you are using it for. Carbide points
are best when you indicate over long distances all day long as they wear
better. Small diameter points are best for indicating small holes,
drills, etc. Good choice for an indicator BTW.

Dan

Hi Dan

Thanks for the quick response and simple solution to an obvious
"beginner" question. Glad I didn't get out the "big" screw driver!
:-)

For anyone researching indicators, I found an excellent comparision
table at:

http://www.longislandindicator.com

Thanks again.

"Scott" wrote in news:1108669569.690732.267640
@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

Hi Dan

Thanks for the quick response and simple solution to an obvious
"beginner" question. Glad I didn't get out the "big" screw driver!
:-)

For anyone researching indicators, I found an excellent comparision
table at:

http://www.longislandindicator.com

Thanks again.



Any time. Wow, nice site. It took me a while to find the DTI comparison
http://www.longislandindicator.com/indicator.html

I agree with their ratings for the most part. I figured out which DTI's are
junk and which are good the hard way. I wish there was a comparison like
this around 25 years ago. I could have saved some money. I think that the
Compac is the best, but I like my Bestest better than my Interapid. I
usually on use the Interapid only for inspection due to the 12 degree
thing. I might send those guys a couple of indicators for repair. Has
anyone used them? And what did you think of them? I've got an old 50
millionths Bestest and a one tenth Interapid that could use repair. $67.00
seems a little steep, but if it's brought back to new specs it might be
worthwhile.

Dan

"Dan Murphy" wrote in message
.. .
snip------

I think that the
Compac is the best, but I like my Bestest better than my Interapid.

I've owned two Bestest indicators for over 30 years and wouldn't be without
them. Aside from replacing the lenses, neither of them have given a moment
of trouble.

Harold

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
:


"Dan Murphy" wrote in message
.. .
snip------

I think that the
Compac is the best, but I like my Bestest better than my Interapid.

I've owned two Bestest indicators for over 30 years and wouldn't be
without them. Aside from replacing the lenses, neither of them have
given a moment of trouble.


I just got a brand new one to replace the one that needs repair. The old
one was broken back in '91 when I let a sevice tech borrow it. He
crunched it by running a slide into it. I had it repaired and it's been
fine ever since. A couple weeks ago I let someone use it and it flew out
of his hand when he was taking it off of his Mag base. So, I'm thinking
about getting it fixed again, but it's old and I'm not sure it's worth
it. It still works but it seems to have a little side play, and the clock
hand is a little skewed. A new bushing, crystal, and reset the hand it
should be good to go for another twenty years or until I lend it out
again. The Interapid works fine. It's just doesn't seem to be as smooth
as a new one. Plus the clock face doesn't rotate with the crystal
anymore. It moves about a quarter of what the crystal moves. Drives me
mad, so I use it on the bench centers where I can use the fine adjust on
the holder to zero the indicator. I'm thinking this should be a no
brainer to fix and calibrate. $67.00 seems steep though. I have plenty of
good working indicators besides. I scored a brand new Mitutoyo .0001" on
Ebay for $12.00. In the plastic and perfect. I love it when people list
stuff improperly.

Dan

"Dan Murphy" wrote in message
...
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
:


"Dan Murphy" wrote in message
.. .
snip------

I think that the
Compac is the best, but I like my Bestest better than my Interapid.

I've owned two Bestest indicators for over 30 years and wouldn't be
without them. Aside from replacing the lenses, neither of them have
given a moment of trouble.


I just got a brand new one to replace the one that needs repair. The old
one was broken back in '91 when I let a sevice tech borrow it. He
crunched it by running a slide into it. I had it repaired and it's been
fine ever since. A couple weeks ago I let someone use it and it flew out
of his hand when he was taking it off of his Mag base. So, I'm thinking
about getting it fixed again, but it's old and I'm not sure it's worth
it. It still works but it seems to have a little side play, and the clock
hand is a little skewed. A new bushing, crystal, and reset the hand it
should be good to go for another twenty years or until I lend it out
again. The Interapid works fine. It's just doesn't seem to be as smooth
as a new one. Plus the clock face doesn't rotate with the crystal
anymore. It moves about a quarter of what the crystal moves. Drives me
mad, so I use it on the bench centers where I can use the fine adjust on
the holder to zero the indicator. I'm thinking this should be a no
brainer to fix and calibrate. $67.00 seems steep though. I have plenty of
good working indicators besides. I scored a brand new Mitutoyo .0001" on
Ebay for $12.00. In the plastic and perfect. I love it when people list
stuff improperly.

Dan

Dam, Dan, I don't know if you're a good guy, or stupid (no offense meant).

You're a lot more generous than I am. I DO NOT LEND TOOLS! Full stop!
I've been very fortunate to have kept all my precision tools in pretty good
shape, with the vast majority now over 45 years old. I got in just as
Starrett went to satin chrome, so almost all of my tools are so finished.
Thanks to never letting others use them, they're all still almost perfect.
My one sadness is my vernier protractor isn't satin chrome, and it's getting
harder and harder to read as I get older, thanks to poor eyes.

Like you, I can't quite warm up to spending $67 to have my one Bestest sent
in for the crystal to be replaced. I'm seriously considering installing
one myself (assuming I can buy one, that is), but it's not something I've
done before. If you have any pointers, I'd welcome them.

Or, if you'd like to send me that .0001" Mitutoyo, I'll double your money!
:-)

Man, what a great buy that was!

Harold

In article ,
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

[ ... ]

Thanks to never letting others use them, they're all still almost perfect.
My one sadness is my vernier protractor isn't satin chrome, and it's getting
harder and harder to read as I get older, thanks to poor eyes.

That prompted me to get another in satin chrome from an eBay
auction.

Like you, I can't quite warm up to spending $67 to have my one Bestest sent
in for the crystal to be replaced. I'm seriously considering installing
one myself (assuming I can buy one, that is), but it's not something I've
done before. If you have any pointers, I'd welcome them.

What diameter is the bezel of the Bestest? For larger
indicators (1-1/2" and up) I turn a replacement out of 1/16" Lexan (just
a bit oversize for the measurement of the bezel), put a partial bevel on
the edge, and then place it on a ring which is turned to contact at
about 3/4 of the OD of the crystal, and press with a soft rounded
surface (I usually buffer with the plastic lids from water cooler
bottles) in the center using a small arbor press, while the bezel ring
is resting on top of the crystal around the presser. As the center
presses in, the OD raises a bit, and reduces diameter just a bit. When
it is curved enough, the bezel ring will slip on, and then you relax the
pressure, allowing the OD of the new crystal to expand and grip the
bezel ring. (The crystal will retain a domed shape -- how much of one
depends on how much the OD needed to be shrunk to fit the bezel ring.)
Once this is done, peel off the protective plastic which came on the
Lexan, and re-install the bezel ring on the indicator.

Exactly how you remove the bezel ring from the indicator is a
function of the particular brand and model. Some use screws which
engage grooves on the indicator body. (Federal tends to be one example
of this.) Larger Starretts tend to use a circular wire spring with three
bulges in it. You need to rotate the bezel ring until one of them comes
into view through a tiny hole in the ring, and press it in with a pin of
appropriate diameter. You then press the ring forward a bit to hold
that one disenaged, and rotate to find the next one. Once all three
are released, the bezel ring will come off. Small Starretts like the
"Last Word" have a bezel ring which is simply pressed on (a friction
fit), but those also need a thinner crystal, and I've used some which I
acquired with a repair toolbox from eBay. It is now time to see whether
I can buy more of those. Anyway, those pre-formed crystals press in
from the inside.

I posted a web page showing a couple of indicators which I had
re-crystaled, plus the tools made to do that particular size. (Every
time there is another size, I need to make more tools. :-) It is too
late tonight to dig up the URL, but drop me an e-mail and I'll dig it
up, or perhaps ask here and I'll post it again.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

[ ... ]

Thanks to never letting others use them, they're all still almost
perfect.
My one sadness is my vernier protractor isn't satin chrome, and it's
getting
harder and harder to read as I get older, thanks to poor eyes.

That prompted me to get another in satin chrome from an eBay
auction.

Like you, I can't quite warm up to spending $67 to have my one Bestest
sent
in for the crystal to be replaced. I'm seriously considering
installing
one myself (assuming I can buy one, that is), but it's not something I've
done before. If you have any pointers, I'd welcome them.

What diameter is the bezel of the Bestest? For larger
indicators (1-1/2" and up) I turn a replacement out of 1/16" Lexan (just
a bit oversize for the measurement of the bezel), put a partial bevel on
the edge, and then place it on a ring which is turned to contact at
about 3/4 of the OD of the crystal, and press with a soft rounded
surface (I usually buffer with the plastic lids from water cooler
bottles) in the center using a small arbor press, while the bezel ring
is resting on top of the crystal around the presser. As the center
presses in, the OD raises a bit, and reduces diameter just a bit. When
it is curved enough, the bezel ring will slip on, and then you relax the
pressure, allowing the OD of the new crystal to expand and grip the
bezel ring. (The crystal will retain a domed shape -- how much of one
depends on how much the OD needed to be shrunk to fit the bezel ring.)
Once this is done, peel off the protective plastic which came on the
Lexan, and re-install the bezel ring on the indicator.

Exactly how you remove the bezel ring from the indicator is a
function of the particular brand and model. Some use screws which
engage grooves on the indicator body. (Federal tends to be one example
of this.) Larger Starretts tend to use a circular wire spring with three
bulges in it. You need to rotate the bezel ring until one of them comes
into view through a tiny hole in the ring, and press it in with a pin of
appropriate diameter. You then press the ring forward a bit to hold
that one disenaged, and rotate to find the next one. Once all three
are released, the bezel ring will come off. Small Starretts like the
"Last Word" have a bezel ring which is simply pressed on (a friction
fit), but those also need a thinner crystal, and I've used some which I
acquired with a repair toolbox from eBay. It is now time to see whether
I can buy more of those. Anyway, those pre-formed crystals press in
from the inside.

I posted a web page showing a couple of indicators which I had
re-crystaled, plus the tools made to do that particular size. (Every
time there is another size, I need to make more tools. :-) It is too
late tonight to dig up the URL, but drop me an e-mail and I'll dig it
up, or perhaps ask here and I'll post it again.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Thanks for the great response, DoN. I did exactly as you suggest when I
rebuilt my Wilson Hardness tester, which apparently had been through a small
fire. Lenses (the one mounted directly on the meter, and the cover lens,
which protects it) were distorted, but not destroyed. It worked great, but
I'm not convinced I'll be successful in finding material thin enough to make
one for the Bestest, which appears to be 1.450" diameter. Right now it's
held in by some masking tape, so it's very easy to remove and examine.

If you don't mind, please do provide the link and I'll explore your post.
I'd contact you on the side, but my attempts of a few months ago didn't get
through for some reason, as you may recall. There's certainly no hurry,
I'm not using the shop right now, what with the house project hanging over
my head. Just looking to the future.

Regards,

Harold

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
:


Dam, Dan, I don't know if you're a good guy, or stupid (no offense
meant).

Well, I always look at it as being for the greater good. Where I work we
sell machines, so we are doing turnkey's or service.


You're a lot more generous than I am. I DO NOT LEND TOOLS! Full stop!
I've been very fortunate to have kept all my precision tools in pretty
good shape, with the vast majority now over 45 years old. I got in
just as Starrett went to satin chrome, so almost all of my tools are
so finished. Thanks to never letting others use them, they're all
still almost perfect. My one sadness is my vernier protractor isn't
satin chrome, and it's getting harder and harder to read as I get
older, thanks to poor eyes.

I know the feeling. I used to use an eye loupe on occasion, now I use it
all the time.


Like you, I can't quite warm up to spending $67 to have my one Bestest
sent in for the crystal to be replaced. I'm seriously considering
installing one myself (assuming I can buy one, that is), but it's not
something I've done before. If you have any pointers, I'd welcome
them.

I decided to take the Interapid and the Bestest and try repairing them
myself. I figured what the heck, if I screw it up, I can still pay the
$67.00. You can order a new crystal for the Bestest for around $7.00 to
$9.00. I haven't ordered one yet, but I did remove it, clean it up, and
put it back. I also reset the clock hand, and tightened up the joint
where the tip screws in and swivels. The end result checking it with gage
blocks on a surface plate were good. Repeats dead on. It read the
difference between a .0500" and a .05005" gage block. I also checked +/-
..002" and it read dead on. I still have a little side play though, when I
slide the gage blocks sideways under the tip I get between a 50
millionths and one tenth movement on the dial. I think that this is just
wear in the bushing, as this indicator has been used for indicating
machines its whole life. I'm going to try polishing the crystal with
diamond compound, If that doesn't work, I'll just buy a new one. I'm
going to keep using this as a secondary indicator, for dialing in tools
in a CNC Swiss that's dripping with cutting oil.
The Interapid was a little trickier. I removed the two screws behind the
clock mechanism that hold it to the body, this causes the clock spring to
unwind. There are two holes on the back that allow you to unscrew the
bezel. Once I had the bezel off I removed the crystal and cleaned it,
along with the clock face. I put it all back together and gave it a
little oil, and it now looks and feels new. Then I realized that I
couldn't rewind the spring and get it assembled with the crystal
installed, so I took the crystal off, wound the spring and put it back
together. This is a real PITA. It took about five atempts before I got it
right. There is a spring loaded gear rack that the gear on the clock
engages. The clock has to be wound exactly the right number of turns and
you have to catch the gear rack exactly in the middle. Once I got it all
together, I checked it the same way as the Bestest. Repeatability was
dead on, and there was no side play. But right away I see the big reason
I don't like Interapid's. There was error reading between different size
gage blocks, because I wasn't at twelve degrees. It took a couple of
times to get the indicator set right. I had it mounted to a Starrett
surface gage, so as you use the fine adjust on the surface gage it
changes the angle. Grrr.
Having had both DTI's apart, I have to say the Interapid has heavier
construction and it had less schmoo in it, so it seems to be sealed
better. It's far more likely to survive being dropped than the Bestest.
But, the Bestest is more sensitive and easier to use.
I also check a Wilson Wolpert .0005" DTI that I bought in a Dutch auction
on Ebay. It's Chinese, but for five bucks, I figured what the heck. I'll
be damned if it isn't spot on. It seems to be fairly heavy as far as the
construction, so for a low budget knock-around on the knee mill
indicator, I'd give it a thumbs-up.


Or, if you'd like to send me that .0001" Mitutoyo, I'll double your
money!
:-)

No way. The Mit has a narrow round body and a small dial (which is hard
to read) but it fits in places that the others just won't go, so it's a
keeper.


Man, what a great buy that was!

That's nothing. I got a Mitutoyo Quick Mike for $125.00. List price is
around $430.00. Listed wrong. But my all time biggest steal was a
Gaertner Toolmakers microscope. It's the type with the tilting column,
rotary table, and the angle measurement through a second eye piece. It
has a quadra-check DRO with printer, and a Mitutoyo light source in
addition to the built in ones. It came with all of the table accesories
(bench centers, v-blocks, etc), three eye pieces, several lenses,
filters, etc. And if all that wasn't enough, one of the wooden boxes had
a Starrett croblox AAA set of thin blocks, .010-.0119" in it. All
perfect. All for the princely sum of five hundred bucks. At the time I
bought the Gaertner there were several Mitutoyos and Nikons going for
three to four times the money. Fools! I was the only bidder. The optical
quality of this scope blows away anything else I've ever used. Oh, then
there was the Gov't surplus gage block set I bought. It was listed as
missing several blocks. $35.00. I get the set and am taking out the
blocks, cleaning and inspecting them when I notice the box rattles. I
look through the holes and there are blocks underneath. Yup, they were
all there. The only blocks that were ever used were the 1" and 2". I'm
guessing they used these for calibrating mikes. So, now I'm on the hunt
for those blocks. Gotta love Ebay.

Dan

In article ,
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

[ ... ]

Like you, I can't quite warm up to spending $67 to have my one Bestest
sent
in for the crystal to be replaced. I'm seriously considering
installing
one myself (assuming I can buy one, that is), but it's not something I've
done before. If you have any pointers, I'd welcome them.

What diameter is the bezel of the Bestest? For larger
indicators (1-1/2" and up) I turn a replacement out of 1/16" Lexan (just
a bit oversize for the measurement of the bezel), put a partial bevel on
the edge, and then place it on a ring which is turned to contact at
about 3/4 of the OD of the crystal, and press with a soft rounded
surface (I usually buffer with the plastic lids from water cooler
bottles) in the center using a small arbor press, while the bezel ring
is resting on top of the crystal around the presser.

[ ... ]

Thanks for the great response, DoN. I did exactly as you suggest when I
rebuilt my Wilson Hardness tester, which apparently had been through a small
fire. Lenses (the one mounted directly on the meter, and the cover lens,
which protects it) were distorted, but not destroyed. It worked great, but
I'm not convinced I'll be successful in finding material thin enough to make
one for the Bestest, which appears to be 1.450" diameter. Right now it's
held in by some masking tape, so it's very easy to remove and examine.

Hmm ... I ordered some sheets of the thinnest Lexan that MSC
stocked at the time. I think that it was 1/16", but i may have been
thinner. I apparently did not put the thickness information in the web
page.

If you can find some other flexible plastic that is thinner, the
same techniques should still work. You might even try a side out of a
big plastic Listerine bottle or something similar. Pick an area with
little curvature, and heat it to let it flatten more (it will probably
also shrink), and then use that as your starting material.

If you don't mind, please do provide the link and I'll explore your post.

It was a quick-and-dirty web page made some years ago. The URL
is:

http://www2.d-and-d.com/PROJECTS/Crystals/index.html

It looks as though I only photographed the Federal indicator,
and not the 5" range Starrett which I did not long afterwards.

I'd contact you on the side, but my attempts of a few months ago didn't get
through for some reason, as you may recall.

Probably because of spam from one of the other users of your ISP
resulting in the mail server's IP address being blocked. Sometimes it
is difficult to find what caused the blockage to open it up. (At least
until spam ceases, and I can turn off all blocking. :-)

There's certainly no hurry,
I'm not using the shop right now, what with the house project hanging over
my head. Just looking to the future.

I understand. The house certainly takes priority.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Dan,
Oil is a no no. For indicators. It will eventually harden and become sticky
with time.
BTW I and co workers have had good luck with Long island indicator over the
years.
Rick R
"Dan Murphy" wrote in message
.. .
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in
:


Dam, Dan, I don't know if you're a good guy, or stupid (no offense
meant).

Well, I always look at it as being for the greater good. Where I work we
sell machines, so we are doing turnkey's or service.


You're a lot more generous than I am. I DO NOT LEND TOOLS! Full stop!
I've been very fortunate to have kept all my precision tools in pretty
good shape, with the vast majority now over 45 years old. I got in
just as Starrett went to satin chrome, so almost all of my tools are
so finished. Thanks to never letting others use them, they're all
still almost perfect. My one sadness is my vernier protractor isn't
satin chrome, and it's getting harder and harder to read as I get
older, thanks to poor eyes.

I know the feeling. I used to use an eye loupe on occasion, now I use it
all the time.


Like you, I can't quite warm up to spending $67 to have my one Bestest
sent in for the crystal to be replaced. I'm seriously considering
installing one myself (assuming I can buy one, that is), but it's not
something I've done before. If you have any pointers, I'd welcome
them.

I decided to take the Interapid and the Bestest and try repairing them
myself. I figured what the heck, if I screw it up, I can still pay the
$67.00. You can order a new crystal for the Bestest for around $7.00 to
$9.00. I haven't ordered one yet, but I did remove it, clean it up, and
put it back. I also reset the clock hand, and tightened up the joint
where the tip screws in and swivels. The end result checking it with gage
blocks on a surface plate were good. Repeats dead on. It read the
difference between a .0500" and a .05005" gage block. I also checked +/-
.002" and it read dead on. I still have a little side play though, when I
slide the gage blocks sideways under the tip I get between a 50
millionths and one tenth movement on the dial. I think that this is just
wear in the bushing, as this indicator has been used for indicating
machines its whole life. I'm going to try polishing the crystal with
diamond compound, If that doesn't work, I'll just buy a new one. I'm
going to keep using this as a secondary indicator, for dialing in tools
in a CNC Swiss that's dripping with cutting oil.
The Interapid was a little trickier. I removed the two screws behind the
clock mechanism that hold it to the body, this causes the clock spring to
unwind. There are two holes on the back that allow you to unscrew the
bezel. Once I had the bezel off I removed the crystal and cleaned it,
along with the clock face. I put it all back together and gave it a
little oil, and it now looks and feels new. Then I realized that I
couldn't rewind the spring and get it assembled with the crystal
installed, so I took the crystal off, wound the spring and put it back
together. This is a real PITA. It took about five atempts before I got it
right. There is a spring loaded gear rack that the gear on the clock
engages. The clock has to be wound exactly the right number of turns and
you have to catch the gear rack exactly in the middle. Once I got it all
together, I checked it the same way as the Bestest. Repeatability was
dead on, and there was no side play. But right away I see the big reason
I don't like Interapid's. There was error reading between different size
gage blocks, because I wasn't at twelve degrees. It took a couple of
times to get the indicator set right. I had it mounted to a Starrett
surface gage, so as you use the fine adjust on the surface gage it
changes the angle. Grrr.
Having had both DTI's apart, I have to say the Interapid has heavier
construction and it had less schmoo in it, so it seems to be sealed
better. It's far more likely to survive being dropped than the Bestest.
But, the Bestest is more sensitive and easier to use.
I also check a Wilson Wolpert .0005" DTI that I bought in a Dutch auction
on Ebay. It's Chinese, but for five bucks, I figured what the heck. I'll
be damned if it isn't spot on. It seems to be fairly heavy as far as the
construction, so for a low budget knock-around on the knee mill
indicator, I'd give it a thumbs-up.


Or, if you'd like to send me that .0001" Mitutoyo, I'll double your
money!
:-)

No way. The Mit has a narrow round body and a small dial (which is hard
to read) but it fits in places that the others just won't go, so it's a
keeper.


Man, what a great buy that was!

That's nothing. I got a Mitutoyo Quick Mike for $125.00. List price is
around $430.00. Listed wrong. But my all time biggest steal was a
Gaertner Toolmakers microscope. It's the type with the tilting column,
rotary table, and the angle measurement through a second eye piece. It
has a quadra-check DRO with printer, and a Mitutoyo light source in
addition to the built in ones. It came with all of the table accesories
(bench centers, v-blocks, etc), three eye pieces, several lenses,
filters, etc. And if all that wasn't enough, one of the wooden boxes had
a Starrett croblox AAA set of thin blocks, .010-.0119" in it. All
perfect. All for the princely sum of five hundred bucks. At the time I
bought the Gaertner there were several Mitutoyos and Nikons going for
three to four times the money. Fools! I was the only bidder. The optical
quality of this scope blows away anything else I've ever used. Oh, then
there was the Gov't surplus gage block set I bought. It was listed as
missing several blocks. $35.00. I get the set and am taking out the
blocks, cleaning and inspecting them when I notice the box rattles. I
look through the holes and there are blocks underneath. Yup, they were
all there. The only blocks that were ever used were the 1" and 2". I'm
guessing they used these for calibrating mikes. So, now I'm on the hunt
for those blocks. Gotta love Ebay.

Dan

"Rick R" wrote in
:

Dan,
Oil is a no no. For indicators. It will eventually harden and become
sticky with time.
BTW I and co workers have had good luck with Long island indicator
over the years.

I only oiled the bezel where it rotates. It couldn't get any stickier than
it was.

Dan