anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.

Gun drill!
Grind from 40 mm tool steel. Harden the tip and draw the body to spring
temper.
Bugs

Bugs sez, cryptically, " Gun drill!
Grind from 40 mm tool steel. Harden the tip and draw the body to spring
temper."

Cute, Bugs! Did you dream that one up yourself or read it somewhere - errr
that is, read a small portion of it.

Bob Swinney

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:47:56 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:

anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.



What are you drilling? That needs to be known before the correct drill
can be described.
ERS

A cannon bore. It is a pice of a big axle that is going to be drilled and
machined to a cannon that is 1 metre long.


"Eric R Snow" skrev i melding
...
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:47:56 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:

anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.



What are you drilling? That needs to be known before the correct drill
can be described.
ERS

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:47:56 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:

anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.



Its called a gun drill. I have one for sale.

$4000 or best offer.

Though I think shipping to Norway may be expensive.

What material are you trying to drill? Wood is fairly easy to
do..metal is much harder.

Gunner

Rule #35
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"

well, $4000 is waaay too mutch for me...
I dont have that mutch money and a limited budget.
"Gunner" skrev i melding
...
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:47:56 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:

anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.



Its called a gun drill. I have one for sale.

$4000 or best offer.

Though I think shipping to Norway may be expensive.

What material are you trying to drill? Wood is fairly easy to
do..metal is much harder.

Gunner

Rule #35
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 16:08:02 -0000, Håken wrote:
A cannon bore. It is a pice of a big axle that is going to be drilled and
machined to a cannon that is 1 metre long.

How's your metallurgy? You could kill yourself spectacularly if you're
not being very careful with this one.

I am well aware of the dangers around blackpowder...

And the wall of the barrel will be at least 40mm thick, maybe a little
overkill but better safe than sorry....

"Dave Hinz" skrev i melding
...
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 16:08:02 -0000, Håken wrote:
A cannon bore. It is a pice of a big axle that is going to be drilled
and
machined to a cannon that is 1 metre long.

How's your metallurgy? You could kill yourself spectacularly if you're
not being very careful with this one.

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 17:48:18 -0000, Håken wrote:
I am well aware of the dangers around blackpowder...

I'm glad to hear that.

And the wall of the barrel will be at least 40mm thick, maybe a little
overkill but better safe than sorry....

I have a catalog of castings for cannon barrels, they are very
expensive and heavy and in the USA, but maybe there is an online source
that you could look at to get confirmation that your design is good?

If you want, I can get the name of that catalog tonight. Reproduction
US Civil War stuff mainly, but also historical designs going back
a few centuries. What type of cannon are you building? Also,
I'm curious - is this a restricted item in Norway? I've got a friend
(fourth-cousin actually) with an _amazing_ collection but I have the
feeling he is very licensed and regulated.

Dave Hinz

You might also hurt yourself trying to drill an axel . . .

Bob Swinney
"Håken" wrote in message
...
I am well aware of the dangers around blackpowder...

And the wall of the barrel will be at least 40mm thick, maybe a little
overkill but better safe than sorry....

"Dave Hinz" skrev i melding
...
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 16:08:02 -0000, Håken wrote:
A cannon bore. It is a pice of a big axle that is going to be drilled
and
machined to a cannon that is 1 metre long.

How's your metallurgy? You could kill yourself spectacularly if you're
not being very careful with this one.

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 12:58:08 -0600, Robert Swinney wrote:
You might also hurt yourself trying to drill an axel . . .

Um, Bob, he's Norwegian. How's your Nynorsk?

You GO!!!


"Håken" wrote in message
...
A cannon bore. It is a pice of a big axle that is going to be drilled and
machined to a cannon that is 1 metre long.


"Eric R Snow" skrev i melding
...
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:47:56 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:

anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.



What are you drilling? That needs to be known before the correct drill
can be described.
ERS

Dave Hinz wrote:

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 17:48:18 -0000, Håken wrote:


I am well aware of the dangers around blackpowder...



I'm glad to hear that.



And the wall of the barrel will be at least 40mm thick, maybe a little
overkill but better safe than sorry....



I have a catalog of castings for cannon barrels, they are very
expensive and heavy and in the USA, but maybe there is an online source
that you could look at to get confirmation that your design is good?

If you want, I can get the name of that catalog tonight. Reproduction
US Civil War stuff mainly, but also historical designs going back
a few centuries. What type of cannon are you building? Also,
I'm curious - is this a restricted item in Norway? I've got a friend
(fourth-cousin actually) with an _amazing_ collection but I have the
feeling he is very licensed and regulated.

Dave Hinz



My former father in law had a couple of cannons made from simple pipe.
probably not the safest but they worked well to produce the bang and
smoke people liked to see.

Anyway, cannonballs are the problem: Yes, you can shoot just packed
powder but making something go (he lived a mile from the nearest
neighbor) is more fun. He used oranges. What didn't tear apart on the
explosion was wet and soft enough that it wouldn't have any change of
starting grass fires if you couldn't see where it went. Looked a little
silly, though, shopping for oranges with a gauge to make sure they were
proper bore size.

Koz

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 16:08:02 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:
I think your best bet is to have it gundrilled. The machines to do
this type of drilling will be able to do the job fairly fast and so it
would not be that expensive. If you can't find a local shop to do it
then I think your best bet might be to look for plans for a home made
gun barrel drilling machine. You have two problems to deal with.
First, the axle material is probably pretty tough and so drilling a
large diameter hole would be very slow. Second, the hole is so long
that runout is a problem. You don't want the drill to come out the
side of the cannon.
ERS

A cannon bore. It is a pice of a big axle that is going to be drilled and
machined to a cannon that is 1 metre long.


"Eric R Snow" skrev i melding
.. .
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:47:56 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:

anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.



What are you drilling? That needs to be known before the correct drill
can be described.
ERS

anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.


I remember Lindsay Books had an old book about machining gun bores with WW1
vintage equipment. I'm sure it would be way slow but might be worth
investigating

http://www.lindsaybks.com/


Karl

Håken wrote:

well, $4000 is waaay too mutch for me...
I dont have that mutch money and a limited budget.
"Gunner" skrev i melding
...

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:47:56 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:


anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.




Its called a gun drill. I have one for sale.

$4000 or best offer.

Though I think shipping to Norway may be expensive.

What material are you trying to drill? Wood is fairly easy to
do..metal is much harder.

Gunner

Rule #35
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"



If you have a long enough lathe you could drill it with a gundrill style
drill. but the setup would require a steady rest and a bushing mounted
next to the end of the work and a chip box to collect up the chips and
oil from an air mist unit needed to blast the chips out of the hole. I
had a old monarch set up with with this setup but for a much shorter job.
The easiest route would be to get it sourced out to a job shop with a
gundrill.

I have a feeling that sutch things are in the grey sone, and legal if they
dont fire any projectile.

I am building an 1800 centory's design, something wery similar to the so
called 3 inch rifles.
The rifling is ommidet because it is wery hard too make.

And it is not possible to find old 40mm gun barrels in Norway....

"Dave Hinz" skrev i melding
...
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 17:48:18 -0000, Håken wrote:
I am well aware of the dangers around blackpowder...

I'm glad to hear that.

And the wall of the barrel will be at least 40mm thick, maybe a little
overkill but better safe than sorry....

I have a catalog of castings for cannon barrels, they are very
expensive and heavy and in the USA, but maybe there is an online source
that you could look at to get confirmation that your design is good?

If you want, I can get the name of that catalog tonight. Reproduction
US Civil War stuff mainly, but also historical designs going back
a few centuries. What type of cannon are you building? Also,
I'm curious - is this a restricted item in Norway? I've got a friend
(fourth-cousin actually) with an _amazing_ collection but I have the
feeling he is very licensed and regulated.

Dave Hinz

The nearest shop that can do suth things are located in Stavanger, and i
Live near Hamar, so it is a looong trip.

And the machinery services in Hamar usually starts at 152.895 USD per
hour...

My brother has an lathe with the basic tools, so i can do pretty mutch by
myself.

"machineman" skrev i melding
news:PjwOd.43161$gA4.30469@edtnps89...
Håken wrote:

well, $4000 is waaay too mutch for me...
I dont have that mutch money and a limited budget.
"Gunner" skrev i melding
...

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:47:56 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:


anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.




Its called a gun drill. I have one for sale.

$4000 or best offer.

Though I think shipping to Norway may be expensive.

What material are you trying to drill? Wood is fairly easy to
do..metal is much harder.

Gunner

Rule #35
"That which does not kill you,
has made a huge tactical error"



If you have a long enough lathe you could drill it with a gundrill style
drill. but the setup would require a steady rest and a bushing mounted
next to the end of the work and a chip box to collect up the chips and
oil from an air mist unit needed to blast the chips out of the hole. I
had a old monarch set up with with this setup but for a much shorter job.
The easiest route would be to get it sourced out to a job shop with a
gundrill.

H=E5ken wrote:
anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.

Get a spade drill and mount it to a 1 inch shaft .The shaft will be
smaller than the blade to let the chips clear.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=3D387 24=
77799&rd=3D1

Out of topic,



n 1935, Thunes Mekaniske Verksted in Hamar, Norway, built three prototypes
of what was later known to be the "Dovregubbe", the "Dovre Giant", a
*tremendous* 1'D2'h4v with 2,600hp in spite of only 15.5t of axle load and
the official classification 49a (the two first prototypes with loco number
463 and 464) and 49b (the third prototype with loco number 465).

http://www.jernbane.net/norge/damp/tp49/49a463_01.jpg


There also exists an interesting booklet with lots of nice pictures. The
text is in norvegian, however, so you would have to be able to talk one of
the scandinavian languages to be able to read it.

Two similar Dovregubber (later classified 49c and having loco numbers 470
and 471) have been built by Friedrich Krupp in Essen, Germany.

The Krupp-Dovregubbe was tested in Germany before it was delivered to NSB.
The tests were done on express trains from Berlin to Wroclaw, Poland,
formerly Breslau. The engines were used on trains which normally were 01^10
hold and performed extremely well. They actually got the trains faster by
more than 20min from Berlin to Breslau or v.v. than the 01, in spite of the
fact that the Dovregubbe's speed limit was 100km/h. The reason for that is
that it "accelerated like a race-horse" (says the report of the testing crew
of Krupp engineers and DR drivers and conductors).


"tim" skrev i melding
oups.com...

Håken wrote:
anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.

Get a spade drill and mount it to a 1 inch shaft .The shaft will be
smaller than the blade to let the chips clear.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2477 799&rd=1

Håken wrote:

A cannon bore. It is a pice of a big axle that is going to be drilled and
machined to a cannon that is 1 metre long.


"Eric R Snow" skrev i melding
...

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:47:56 -0000, "Håken"
wrote:


anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.




What are you drilling? That needs to be known before the correct drill
can be described.
ERS



Sounds like you need to drill and then bore the final. Drilling is roughing it out.
Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

Once it's made I suggest proof testing it from behind something big enough
to stop it. The Dixie Gunworks catalog used to suggest double load of powder
and 2 balls for black powder guns. I don't know if it's the correct
procedure for cannons or even black powder guns nowadays. I never had one
blow and since I tested my guns I didn't have a fear of having a breech plug
sticking out of my forehead.
Of course this fear might have had something to do with making pipe cannons
as a kid and seeing the pipe cap flying backwards for a good distance. Being
a bright kid I had decided the safest place during firing was 45 degrees
behind and to the side of the cannon. Don't know if that's actually the
safest place but kept me safe when I needed it to.
Karl


"Håken" wrote in message
...
anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

The OD needs to be 40mm and lenght 1meter.

Been there, done that. he was talking about a soil auger wasn't he?
Wide eyed Stare
Bugs

If you know any gunsmith, he should be able to show you how rifling was
made in pioneer times. It's basically a draw scraper, similar to an
adjustable reamer but with a twist built in. It can be pulled through
with a piece of all-thread rod and a nut.
Bugs

"Koz" wrote:
Anyway, cannonballs are the problem: Yes, you can shoot just packed
powder but making something go (he lived a mile from the nearest
neighbor) is more fun. He used oranges. What didn't tear apart on the
explosion was wet and soft enough that it wouldn't have any change of
starting grass fires if you couldn't see where it went. Looked a little
silly, though, shopping for oranges with a gauge to make sure they were
proper bore size.

There's always bowling balls:
http://www.docsmachine.com/nonPB/mortar.html

Jon