Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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  #1   Report Post  
Grant Erwin
 
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Default pulling a stuck ball bearing

I have an old wood lathe live center. The shank unthreads so then you
can push out the tip. That leaves the body, which is a steel cylinder
bored to receive a 6201 bearing which has been in there about 50 years.
The threaded shank hole in the back is smaller than the bearing bore.

Here's what I've tried so far, with the results:

NOTE: I did several heat cycles interspersed with liberal applications of
Kroil first to see if I could get it to work loose. Ha!

1. turned a piece of scrap to about .0005" clearance in the bearing bore
and threaded in the shank (making the bearing bore effectively a blind hole)
and filled the hole with light grease and tried to punch it out using the
hydraulic force of the grease. You never saw such a thin sheet of grease
extruded, wish I could have taken a picture. Bearing 1, Grant 0

2. cleaned bore and scrap piece immaculately by boiling in TSP followed
by a hot water rinse and a quick acetone wipe with a Q-tip, then glued the
scrap piece into the bore using Gorilla Glue. After setup time, the arbor
press promptly broke the glue joint. Bearing 2, Grant 0

3. made a "washer" slightly bigger than the bearing bore and ground 2 flats
on its edges and filed a bevel around the crown until it just snapped down
into the little crack between the bearing and the back of the body. Arbor
press easily dished out the washer and popped it out. Bearing solidly in
place -- Bearing 3, Grant 0.

I'm considering taking my piece of scrap, cleaning off the monkey glue,
pushing it a bit into the bore, and *welding* it to the bearing bore
using 3/32" 7018 lo-hy rod at about 60 amps. I'm also considering
grinding randomly with a carbide burr in a die grinder inside the bearing
bore to roughen it up, and try gluing again, maybe with JB Weld.

Final solution is to remake the body. I can't let this bearing win, though!!

Ideas?

Grant Erwin
  #2   Report Post  
Tom Gardner
 
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Default

Since a 6201zz is about $6, walk it off with an air chisel.


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I have an old wood lathe live center. The shank unthreads so then you
can push out the tip. That leaves the body, which is a steel cylinder
bored to receive a 6201 bearing which has been in there about 50 years.
The threaded shank hole in the back is smaller than the bearing bore.

Here's what I've tried so far, with the results:

NOTE: I did several heat cycles interspersed with liberal applications of
Kroil first to see if I could get it to work loose. Ha!

1. turned a piece of scrap to about .0005" clearance in the bearing bore
and threaded in the shank (making the bearing bore effectively a blind
hole)
and filled the hole with light grease and tried to punch it out using the
hydraulic force of the grease. You never saw such a thin sheet of grease
extruded, wish I could have taken a picture. Bearing 1, Grant 0

2. cleaned bore and scrap piece immaculately by boiling in TSP followed
by a hot water rinse and a quick acetone wipe with a Q-tip, then glued the
scrap piece into the bore using Gorilla Glue. After setup time, the arbor
press promptly broke the glue joint. Bearing 2, Grant 0

3. made a "washer" slightly bigger than the bearing bore and ground 2
flats
on its edges and filed a bevel around the crown until it just snapped down
into the little crack between the bearing and the back of the body. Arbor
press easily dished out the washer and popped it out. Bearing solidly in
place -- Bearing 3, Grant 0.

I'm considering taking my piece of scrap, cleaning off the monkey glue,
pushing it a bit into the bore, and *welding* it to the bearing bore
using 3/32" 7018 lo-hy rod at about 60 amps. I'm also considering
grinding randomly with a carbide burr in a die grinder inside the bearing
bore to roughen it up, and try gluing again, maybe with JB Weld.

Final solution is to remake the body. I can't let this bearing win,
though!!

Ideas?

Grant Erwin



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Tom
 
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Default

Grant Erwin wrote:

I have an old wood lathe live center. The shank unthreads so then you
can push out the tip. That leaves the body, which is a steel cylinder
bored to receive a 6201 bearing which has been in there about 50 years.
The threaded shank hole in the back is smaller than the bearing bore.

Here's what I've tried so far, with the results:

NOTE: I did several heat cycles interspersed with liberal applications of
Kroil first to see if I could get it to work loose. Ha!

1. turned a piece of scrap to about .0005" clearance in the bearing bore
and threaded in the shank (making the bearing bore effectively a blind hole)
and filled the hole with light grease and tried to punch it out using the
hydraulic force of the grease. You never saw such a thin sheet of grease
extruded, wish I could have taken a picture. Bearing 1, Grant 0

2. cleaned bore and scrap piece immaculately by boiling in TSP followed
by a hot water rinse and a quick acetone wipe with a Q-tip, then glued the
scrap piece into the bore using Gorilla Glue. After setup time, the arbor
press promptly broke the glue joint. Bearing 2, Grant 0

3. made a "washer" slightly bigger than the bearing bore and ground 2 flats
on its edges and filed a bevel around the crown until it just snapped down
into the little crack between the bearing and the back of the body. Arbor
press easily dished out the washer and popped it out. Bearing solidly in
place -- Bearing 3, Grant 0.

I'm considering taking my piece of scrap, cleaning off the monkey glue,
pushing it a bit into the bore, and *welding* it to the bearing bore
using 3/32" 7018 lo-hy rod at about 60 amps. I'm also considering
grinding randomly with a carbide burr in a die grinder inside the bearing
bore to roughen it up, and try gluing again, maybe with JB Weld.

Final solution is to remake the body. I can't let this bearing win, though!!

Ideas?

Grant Erwin


Destroy the cage and remove the inner race & balls, run a bead of weld
around the inside of the outer race, said race will fall out by the
time you've finished welding.

Tom
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Wayne Cook
 
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Default

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 09:17:02 +1300, Tom wrote:



Destroy the cage and remove the inner race & balls, run a bead of weld
around the inside of the outer race, said race will fall out by the
time you've finished welding.

Tom


What he said.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook
  #5   Report Post  
Tom Gardner
 
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Default

Sorry about my responce...synapses mis-firing, I like the weld idea from the
"smart" Tom.


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I have an old wood lathe live center. The shank unthreads so then you
can push out the tip. That leaves the body, which is a steel cylinder
bored to receive a 6201 bearing which has been in there about 50 years.
The threaded shank hole in the back is smaller than the bearing bore.

Here's what I've tried so far, with the results:

NOTE: I did several heat cycles interspersed with liberal applications of
Kroil first to see if I could get it to work loose. Ha!

1. turned a piece of scrap to about .0005" clearance in the bearing bore
and threaded in the shank (making the bearing bore effectively a blind
hole)
and filled the hole with light grease and tried to punch it out using the
hydraulic force of the grease. You never saw such a thin sheet of grease
extruded, wish I could have taken a picture. Bearing 1, Grant 0

2. cleaned bore and scrap piece immaculately by boiling in TSP followed
by a hot water rinse and a quick acetone wipe with a Q-tip, then glued the
scrap piece into the bore using Gorilla Glue. After setup time, the arbor
press promptly broke the glue joint. Bearing 2, Grant 0

3. made a "washer" slightly bigger than the bearing bore and ground 2
flats
on its edges and filed a bevel around the crown until it just snapped down
into the little crack between the bearing and the back of the body. Arbor
press easily dished out the washer and popped it out. Bearing solidly in
place -- Bearing 3, Grant 0.

I'm considering taking my piece of scrap, cleaning off the monkey glue,
pushing it a bit into the bore, and *welding* it to the bearing bore
using 3/32" 7018 lo-hy rod at about 60 amps. I'm also considering
grinding randomly with a carbide burr in a die grinder inside the bearing
bore to roughen it up, and try gluing again, maybe with JB Weld.

Final solution is to remake the body. I can't let this bearing win,
though!!

Ideas?

Grant Erwin





  #6   Report Post  
Martin H. Eastburn
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Ok - I read the others and here goes:
Make or use an expanding mandril. Place it through the bearing.
Screw down on it to grip tightly. Screw on the Morse shank position a
bolt (make one likely) that you can attach to the toolpost or like.

Hold the shank end in the headstock tightly. back off from the head
pulling the shell off the bearing.

(I would have done the grease method - that has worked for me -
Maybe you need to seal off the area so the grease can't form the sheet...

If results = bad, blast it out :-)

Martin

Grant Erwin wrote:

I have an old wood lathe live center. The shank unthreads so then you
can push out the tip. That leaves the body, which is a steel cylinder
bored to receive a 6201 bearing which has been in there about 50 years.
The threaded shank hole in the back is smaller than the bearing bore.

Here's what I've tried so far, with the results:

NOTE: I did several heat cycles interspersed with liberal applications of
Kroil first to see if I could get it to work loose. Ha!

1. turned a piece of scrap to about .0005" clearance in the bearing bore
and threaded in the shank (making the bearing bore effectively a blind
hole)
and filled the hole with light grease and tried to punch it out using the
hydraulic force of the grease. You never saw such a thin sheet of grease
extruded, wish I could have taken a picture. Bearing 1, Grant 0

2. cleaned bore and scrap piece immaculately by boiling in TSP followed
by a hot water rinse and a quick acetone wipe with a Q-tip, then glued the
scrap piece into the bore using Gorilla Glue. After setup time, the arbor
press promptly broke the glue joint. Bearing 2, Grant 0

3. made a "washer" slightly bigger than the bearing bore and ground 2 flats
on its edges and filed a bevel around the crown until it just snapped down
into the little crack between the bearing and the back of the body. Arbor
press easily dished out the washer and popped it out. Bearing solidly in
place -- Bearing 3, Grant 0.

I'm considering taking my piece of scrap, cleaning off the monkey glue,
pushing it a bit into the bore, and *welding* it to the bearing bore
using 3/32" 7018 lo-hy rod at about 60 amps. I'm also considering
grinding randomly with a carbide burr in a die grinder inside the bearing
bore to roughen it up, and try gluing again, maybe with JB Weld.

Final solution is to remake the body. I can't let this bearing win,
though!!

Ideas?

Grant Erwin



--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
  #7   Report Post  
Lewis Hartswick
 
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Grant Erwin wrote:

I have an old wood lathe live center. The shank unthreads so then you
can push out the tip. That leaves the body, which is a steel cylinder
bored to receive a 6201 bearing which has been in there about 50 years.
The threaded shank hole in the back is smaller than the bearing bore.

Here's what I've tried so far, with the results:

NOTE: I did several heat cycles interspersed with liberal applications of
Kroil first to see if I could get it to work loose. Ha!

1. turned a piece of scrap to about .0005" clearance in the bearing bore
and threaded in the shank (making the bearing bore effectively a blind
hole)
and filled the hole with light grease and tried to punch it out using the
hydraulic force of the grease. You never saw such a thin sheet of grease
extruded, wish I could have taken a picture. Bearing 1, Grant 0

2. cleaned bore and scrap piece immaculately by boiling in TSP followed
by a hot water rinse and a quick acetone wipe with a Q-tip, then glued the
scrap piece into the bore using Gorilla Glue. After setup time, the arbor
press promptly broke the glue joint. Bearing 2, Grant 0

3. made a "washer" slightly bigger than the bearing bore and ground 2 flats
on its edges and filed a bevel around the crown until it just snapped down
into the little crack between the bearing and the back of the body. Arbor
press easily dished out the washer and popped it out. Bearing solidly in
place -- Bearing 3, Grant 0.

I'm considering taking my piece of scrap, cleaning off the monkey glue,
pushing it a bit into the bore, and *welding* it to the bearing bore
using 3/32" 7018 lo-hy rod at about 60 amps. I'm also considering
grinding randomly with a carbide burr in a die grinder inside the bearing
bore to roughen it up, and try gluing again, maybe with JB Weld.

Final solution is to remake the body. I can't let this bearing win,
though!!

Ideas?

Grant Erwin


Grant, I just "overhauled" three of those for the school. I made
a bearing puller with wedge shaped right angle teeth "thingies"
on the ends of two L shaped peices and positioned them on
opposite sides of the hole and then pushed a rod down between
them and forced the wedges out between the bearing outer race
and the body. It forced the beraing away from the bottom of the
cavity. Then pushed on out with a press.
...lew...

  #8   Report Post  
Ken Sterling
 
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Default

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 09:17:02 +1300, Tom wrote:



Destroy the cage and remove the inner race & balls, run a bead of weld
around the inside of the outer race, said race will fall out by the
time you've finished welding.

Tom


What he said.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook

Yup.... gotta agree with the bead around the inside trick... I've done
it and it's slicker than a greased string up a hog's butt. Race just
fell out on the floor at just about the same time the smile hit my
face..... Ken.
  #9   Report Post  
Grant Erwin
 
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Default

In the end, I welded a bit of shaft into the inner race and then pushed
the bearing out from the back -- the press bore on the shaft welded into
the bearing. Messy weld, what with the grease still in the bearing, but
it only had to hold for a few seconds, and it did. That bearing had been
in there for maybe 50 years, and it was *in there*.

GWE

Grant Erwin wrote:

I have an old wood lathe live center. The shank unthreads so then you
can push out the tip. That leaves the body, which is a steel cylinder
bored to receive a 6201 bearing which has been in there about 50 years.
The threaded shank hole in the back is smaller than the bearing bore.

Here's what I've tried so far, with the results:

NOTE: I did several heat cycles interspersed with liberal applications of
Kroil first to see if I could get it to work loose. Ha!

1. turned a piece of scrap to about .0005" clearance in the bearing bore
and threaded in the shank (making the bearing bore effectively a blind
hole)
and filled the hole with light grease and tried to punch it out using the
hydraulic force of the grease. You never saw such a thin sheet of grease
extruded, wish I could have taken a picture. Bearing 1, Grant 0

2. cleaned bore and scrap piece immaculately by boiling in TSP followed
by a hot water rinse and a quick acetone wipe with a Q-tip, then glued the
scrap piece into the bore using Gorilla Glue. After setup time, the arbor
press promptly broke the glue joint. Bearing 2, Grant 0

3. made a "washer" slightly bigger than the bearing bore and ground 2 flats
on its edges and filed a bevel around the crown until it just snapped down
into the little crack between the bearing and the back of the body. Arbor
press easily dished out the washer and popped it out. Bearing solidly in
place -- Bearing 3, Grant 0.

I'm considering taking my piece of scrap, cleaning off the monkey glue,
pushing it a bit into the bore, and *welding* it to the bearing bore
using 3/32" 7018 lo-hy rod at about 60 amps. I'm also considering
grinding randomly with a carbide burr in a die grinder inside the bearing
bore to roughen it up, and try gluing again, maybe with JB Weld.

Final solution is to remake the body. I can't let this bearing win,
though!!

Ideas?

Grant Erwin

  #10   Report Post  
Glenn
 
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Default

Cool! down 3-0 and still won LOL
Glenn
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
In the end, I welded a bit of shaft into the inner race and then pushed
the bearing out from the back -- the press bore on the shaft welded into
the bearing. Messy weld, what with the grease still in the bearing, but
it only had to hold for a few seconds, and it did. That bearing had been
in there for maybe 50 years, and it was *in there*.

GWE

Grant Erwin wrote:

I have an old wood lathe live center. The shank unthreads so then you
can push out the tip. That leaves the body, which is a steel cylinder
bored to receive a 6201 bearing which has been in there about 50 years.
The threaded shank hole in the back is smaller than the bearing bore.

Here's what I've tried so far, with the results:

NOTE: I did several heat cycles interspersed with liberal applications of
Kroil first to see if I could get it to work loose. Ha!

1. turned a piece of scrap to about .0005" clearance in the bearing bore
and threaded in the shank (making the bearing bore effectively a blind
hole)
and filled the hole with light grease and tried to punch it out using the
hydraulic force of the grease. You never saw such a thin sheet of grease
extruded, wish I could have taken a picture. Bearing 1, Grant 0

2. cleaned bore and scrap piece immaculately by boiling in TSP followed
by a hot water rinse and a quick acetone wipe with a Q-tip, then glued
the
scrap piece into the bore using Gorilla Glue. After setup time, the arbor
press promptly broke the glue joint. Bearing 2, Grant 0

3. made a "washer" slightly bigger than the bearing bore and ground 2
flats
on its edges and filed a bevel around the crown until it just snapped
down
into the little crack between the bearing and the back of the body. Arbor
press easily dished out the washer and popped it out. Bearing solidly in
place -- Bearing 3, Grant 0.

I'm considering taking my piece of scrap, cleaning off the monkey glue,
pushing it a bit into the bore, and *welding* it to the bearing bore
using 3/32" 7018 lo-hy rod at about 60 amps. I'm also considering
grinding randomly with a carbide burr in a die grinder inside the bearing
bore to roughen it up, and try gluing again, maybe with JB Weld.

Final solution is to remake the body. I can't let this bearing win,
though!!

Ideas?

Grant Erwin



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