Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

I've got a 1440 Chinese lathe from Precision Mathews. Its not the cats
meow, but its still better than any other lathe I have. Often when
taking facing cuts or parting cuts I like to lock the carriage. The
bolt for that is a recessed socket head screw. It works ok, but it
seems I am always looking around for the hex key when I want to release
it and move the tool away from the stock. Unless I am holding it in my
hand the whole time it always takes me a couple seconds longer than I
would like to locate where I set it down.

I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement bolt,
drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT shaft on
hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no big deal. Any
reason why I shouldn't. I'd keep it as low as possible, and make the
handle about half the difference in length between a short arm and a
long arm hex key that size.

Speaking of such I'd also like to lock the cross slide from time to
time. There isn't a lock on it, but it does have a tapered gibb that's
easily adjustable with a screw at each end. Usually I just keep the
gibb adjusted a little bit tighter than is perfectly comfortable to spin
the hand wheel, but on heavy roughing cuts it can still back off on
longer pieces of stock. I wind up standing there with my hand on the
hand wheel and my eye on the DRO the whole time. Is that just the best
way to do it?

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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
I've got a 1440 Chinese lathe from Precision Mathews. Its not the
cats meow, but its still better than any other lathe I have. Often
when taking facing cuts or parting cuts I like to lock the carriage.
The bolt for that is a recessed socket head screw. It works ok, but
it seems I am always looking around for the hex key when I want to
release it and move the tool away from the stock. Unless I am
holding it in my hand the whole time it always takes me a couple
seconds longer than I would like to locate where I set it down.

I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement
bolt, drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT
shaft on hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no
big deal. Any reason why I shouldn't. I'd keep it as low as
possible, and make the handle about half the difference in length
between a short arm and a long arm hex key that size.

Speaking of such I'd also like to lock the cross slide from time to
time. There isn't a lock on it, but it does have a tapered gibb
that's easily adjustable with a screw at each end. Usually I just
keep the gibb adjusted a little bit tighter than is perfectly
comfortable to spin the hand wheel, but on heavy roughing cuts it
can still back off on longer pieces of stock. I wind up standing
there with my hand on the hand wheel and my eye on the DRO the whole
time. Is that just the best way to do it?


I bought several 'vintage' box wrenches for square-headed bolts and
made replacements for missing lock and clamp screws on my 1965 South
Bend to fit them. There's been no problem with the square head
carriage lock.

When not trying to match a style and period I make as many fasteners
as possible on home made machinery fit the same pocketable gear
wrench, normally 9/16" for 3/8" bolt heads.

The SB has a Threading Stop which is a bar that locks into the
dovetail and limits in or outfeed, so the cross slide can be retracted
to quickly move the carriage and then run back against the stop for
the cut. It serves the same function you are looking for without
messing with the gib adjustment.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/South-Bend-...-/123733462898



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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On Sun, 12 May 2019 20:29:25 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement bolt,
drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT shaft on
hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no big deal. Any
reason why I shouldn't...


Another idea is to make it such that your chuck key fits it...

I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to



"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...

On Sun, 12 May 2019 20:29:25 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement bolt,
drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT shaft on
hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no big deal. Any
reason why I shouldn't...


Another idea is to make it such that your chuck key fits it...

**** Not a bad idea, and I do have a location specifically for the chuck
key(s), but which chuck key depends on which chuck I have on the lathe.

I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea


**** This lathe has its own lever locking system for the tail stock. I
have to adjust it once in a while, btut not tools required to lock it in
place, or to adjust the lock. I do leave a 3/4 box end wrench ont eh
tailstock clamping bolt on my smaller 8.5x 18 lathe.


--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On 2019-05-13, Bob La Londe wrote:


"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...

On Sun, 12 May 2019 20:29:25 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement bolt,
drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT shaft on
hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no big deal. Any
reason why I shouldn't...


Another idea is to make it such that your chuck key fits it...

**** Not a bad idea, and I do have a location specifically for the chuck
key(s), but which chuck key depends on which chuck I have on the lathe.


If you have only two lathe chucks -- make a wrench with two
ends, and the tommy-bar in the middle.

I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea


Cheap and not capable of much torque -- but quite likely
sufficient for your specified needs.

Enjoy,
DoN.


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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On 16 May 2019 02:20:55 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...


snip
I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea


Cheap and not capable of much torque -- but quite likely
sufficient for your specified needs.


DoN, if you see the tail-stock it makes a lot more sense:

https://i.postimg.cc/rFQzNcW0/Lathe-9x20-tailstock.jpg

They just give you a bolt head to secure the tail-stock. You can't
quite release it with one grab using a standard wrench. So you have
fiddle with the wrench on/off the head to both loosen and tighten the
tail-stock.

I also added a spring underneath between the wedging nut and the stock.
Helps to release it a bit sooner.

What it really needs is the cam-lock mod but I'm lazy...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to


"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On 16 May 2019 02:20:55 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...


snip
I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have
reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea


Cheap and not capable of much torque -- but quite likely
sufficient for your specified needs.


DoN, if you see the tail-stock it makes a lot more sense:

https://i.postimg.cc/rFQzNcW0/Lathe-9x20-tailstock.jpg

They just give you a bolt head to secure the tail-stock. You can't
quite release it with one grab using a standard wrench. So you have
fiddle with the wrench on/off the head to both loosen and tighten
the
tail-stock.

I also added a spring underneath between the wedging nut and the
stock.
Helps to release it a bit sooner.

What it really needs is the cam-lock mod but I'm lazy...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


You might try facing the bolt head and nut bearing surfaces square
with the shank and threads to see if that makes the tailstock lock and
release with less rotation.

My lathe's tailstock was refitted with a 1/2-13 bolt that clamps tight
(enough) or fully releases in 1/8 of a turn. I found an old wrench
like this and made a hex nut+washer that is 0.80" across the flats to
fit it.
https://www.ebay.com/i/183811511075?chn=ps


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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:56:19 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
You might try facing the bolt head and nut bearing surfaces square
with the shank and threads to see if that makes the tailstock lock and
release with less rotation.

My lathe's tailstock was refitted with a 1/2-13 bolt that clamps tight
(enough) or fully releases in 1/8 of a turn. I found an old wrench
like this and made a hex nut+washer that is 0.80" across the flats to
fit it.
https://www.ebay.com/i/183811511075?chn=ps


I'm sure that wouldn't make it any worse but the main problem is part
#1021 rocks around, sloppy below the bed. So if you loosen the bolt
slightly (actually the nut I see) and then try to move the tailstock it
jams up by going a little cockeyed. The spring I put above #1021 helped
by keeping some downward pressure on it.

https://i.postimg.cc/k57CcpQD/tailstock-parts.jpg

For what I do with it the ratchet wrench and spring combo works good
enough

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:56:19 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
You might try facing the bolt head and nut bearing surfaces square
with the shank and threads to see if that makes the tailstock lock
and
release with less rotation.

My lathe's tailstock was refitted with a 1/2-13 bolt that clamps
tight
(enough) or fully releases in 1/8 of a turn. I found an old wrench
like this and made a hex nut+washer that is 0.80" across the flats
to
fit it.
https://www.ebay.com/i/183811511075?chn=ps


I'm sure that wouldn't make it any worse but the main problem is
part
#1021 rocks around, sloppy below the bed. So if you loosen the bolt
slightly (actually the nut I see) and then try to move the tailstock
it
jams up by going a little cockeyed. The spring I put above #1021
helped
by keeping some downward pressure on it.

https://i.postimg.cc/k57CcpQD/tailstock-parts.jpg

For what I do with it the ratchet wrench and spring combo works good
enough

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


On my lathe that part is a hunk of steel some trade school student
hogged out to replace the missing original. I filed and block-sanded
it until the end mill marks were the same degree of barely visible all
over.

I've fitted two surfaces I couldn't machine, a 5HP gas engine and its
welding-warped mounting plate on my log splitter, by marking the high
spot contacts by pulling sandpaper through and grinding the scratches
off with an angle grinder, then filing as the fit improved. I stopped
when a feeler gauge 0.003" thick (IIRC) wouldn't go into the open
corner, because the offset weight of the engine was interfering with a
delicate feel.


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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On Thu, 16 May 2019 15:28:15 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
On my lathe that part is a hunk of steel some trade school student
hogged out to replace the missing original. I filed and block-sanded
it until the end mill marks were the same degree of barely visible all
over.


Yeah, it's amazing what you can do with simple hand tools with a bit of
training, thought and wana-get-it-done attitude

A guide pin or two for that part on my lathe would help a lot. Or so I
think it would. If I was moving it often I would probably work on it
some more. The real solution for slick operation would be Steve's mod:

http://bedair.org/9x20camlock/9x20camlock.html

or something similar.

There are only a few days a year that I can comfortably work on it or
with it. Most of the time I end up taking care of stuff that just won't
wait any longer...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI



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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 May 2019 15:28:15 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
On my lathe that part is a hunk of steel some trade school student
hogged out to replace the missing original. I filed and block-sanded
it until the end mill marks were the same degree of barely visible
all
over.


Yeah, it's amazing what you can do with simple hand tools with a bit
of
training, thought and wana-get-it-done attitude

A guide pin or two for that part on my lathe would help a lot. Or so
I
think it would. If I was moving it often I would probably work on it
some more. The real solution for slick operation would be Steve's
mod:

http://bedair.org/9x20camlock/9x20camlock.html

or something similar.

There are only a few days a year that I can comfortably work on it
or
with it. Most of the time I end up taking care of stuff that just
won't
wait any longer...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


Here's something similar that requires no change to the tailstock. I
made adjustable cam lock clamps for a sheetmetal brake using this type
of fixture bolt:
http://valtrainc.com/products/jlb.php

The cam is 1.250" drill rod, cut about 3x the thickness of the bolt
eye long, and cross-drilled 0.050" off center for the pivot pin. The
bolt eye fits into a slot milled across the center of the cam, with
enough D-shaped thickness left below the slot, connecting the round
sides, to drill and tap for the operating handle.

On the brake the handle can swing all the way around to run the bolt
threads in or out for coarse adjustment to sheetmetal thickness. Since
it would have limited rotation on the tailstock you might need a thumb
nut underneath to adjust the tension. It can be tightened either by
rocking the handle down toward the thicker side of the cam or rotating
it to screw the bolt tighter, or both.

The feed clutch cam on my South Bend is a very similar design.
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ob-mod-129974/


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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On 2019-05-16, Leon Fisk wrote:
On 16 May 2019 02:20:55 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...


[ ... ]

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea


Cheap and not capable of much torque -- but quite likely
sufficient for your specified needs.


DoN, if you see the tail-stock it makes a lot more sense:

https://i.postimg.cc/rFQzNcW0/Lathe-9x20-tailstock.jpg

They just give you a bolt head to secure the tail-stock. You can't
quite release it with one grab using a standard wrench. So you have
fiddle with the wrench on/off the head to both loosen and tighten the
tail-stock.


Indeed it makes sense.

I wish that the nut for my 12x24" Clausing were that accessible.
It is in a cavity only accessible from the back of the tailstock.

The original design was a lever and cam to pull up the nut, but
that is not with mine (lost before I got the tailstock) and no longer
stocked by Clausing last I asked. So, I have a slip-on hex wrench made
for a Logan, with a long hex nut, with the center of the hex turned to a
cylinder so I can pull the wrench up a bit and slip it to the next teeth
in the socket. (No, I can't get to the back easily enough to switch the
ratchet direction on your inexpensive wrenches. Maybe I can make a
remote for the reverse switch and then use your wrench type for the
task.

Pretty much everything else in the lathe uses a single square
head which fits the supplied wrench. (The other end of the wrench
accesses the nuts holding the compound adjustment at need.)

For yours, what about making something to fit in the other end
which is hex of the right size for the wrench and has an extension also
hex (or square if so needed) to fit the carriage lock -- and if
necessary, Loctite it into the hex socket in the wrench. That way, one
wrench for both jobs.

I also added a spring underneath between the wedging nut and the stock.
Helps to release it a bit sooner.


Great idea.

What it really needs is the cam-lock mod but I'm lazy...


Someday ... :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On 18 May 2019 01:27:57 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

snip
The original design was a lever and cam to pull up the nut, but
that is not with mine (lost before I got the tailstock) and no longer
stocked by Clausing last I asked. So, I have a slip-on hex wrench made
for a Logan, with a long hex nut, with the center of the hex turned to a
cylinder so I can pull the wrench up a bit and slip it to the next teeth
in the socket. (No, I can't get to the back easily enough to switch the
ratchet direction on your inexpensive wrenches. Maybe I can make a
remote for the reverse switch and then use your wrench type for the
task.


One of Jim's good ideas (thanks, knowledge is good!) got me to thinking
I'd seen cammed bolts used on bicycle wheels and seat posts... On a
hunch I searched McMaster and found these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#cams/=ae27...08aabejvttr64k

If the link doesn't work (McMaster links are always iffy) search on
"cams" then "clamping handles". You might want to look through these if
you still want to fix your tailstock. Might get lucky and spot a
version that would work

For yours, what about making something to fit in the other end
which is hex of the right size for the wrench and has an extension also
hex (or square if so needed) to fit the carriage lock -- and if
necessary, Loctite it into the hex socket in the wrench. That way, one
wrench for both jobs.


The carriage lock on mine is really rinky-dink. Just a tiny little M6
cap screw that uses a small hex key. I'd have to take a serious look at
it for possible hazards but that would be a nice place to put a cam
lock of some sort...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
...
The carriage lock on mine is really rinky-dink. Just a tiny little
M6
cap screw that uses a small hex key. I'd have to take a serious look
at
it for possible hazards but that would be a nice place to put a cam
lock of some sort...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


Personally I'd rather have to intentionally take the tool post wrench
off its hook to lock the carriage than risk accidentally locking it
while threading.


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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On Sat, 18 May 2019 15:50:45 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
...
The carriage lock on mine is really rinky-dink. Just a tiny little
M6
cap screw that uses a small hex key. I'd have to take a serious look
at
it for possible hazards but that would be a nice place to put a cam
lock of some sort...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


Personally I'd rather have to intentionally take the tool post wrench
off its hook to lock the carriage than risk accidentally locking it
while threading.


That may be why it is so wimpy. So something doesn't break if you
forget and don't release it. Yeah, that thought/idea did occur to me. I
haven't had any reason to use it so far. Nothing I've done has required
that kind of precision...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI



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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 May 2019 15:50:45 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
...
The carriage lock on mine is really rinky-dink. Just a tiny little
M6
cap screw that uses a small hex key. I'd have to take a serious
look
at
it for possible hazards but that would be a nice place to put a
cam
lock of some sort...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


Personally I'd rather have to intentionally take the tool post
wrench
off its hook to lock the carriage than risk accidentally locking it
while threading.


That may be why it is so wimpy. So something doesn't break if you
forget and don't release it. Yeah, that thought/idea did occur to
me. I
haven't had any reason to use it so far. Nothing I've done has
required
that kind of precision...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


I snug the carriage when facing or parting off so I won't move it by
bumping the handwheel.


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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On 2019-05-18, Leon Fisk wrote:
On 18 May 2019 01:27:57 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

snip
The original design was a lever and cam to pull up the nut, but
that is not with mine (lost before I got the tailstock) and no longer
stocked by Clausing last I asked. So, I have a slip-on hex wrench made
for a Logan, with a long hex nut, with the center of the hex turned to a
cylinder so I can pull the wrench up a bit and slip it to the next teeth
in the socket. (No, I can't get to the back easily enough to switch the
ratchet direction on your inexpensive wrenches. Maybe I can make a
remote for the reverse switch and then use your wrench type for the
task.


One of Jim's good ideas (thanks, knowledge is good!) got me to thinking
I'd seen cammed bolts used on bicycle wheels and seat posts... On a
hunch I searched McMaster and found these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#cams/=ae27...08aabejvttr64k

If the link doesn't work (McMaster links are always iffy) search on
"cams" then "clamping handles". You might want to look through these if
you still want to fix your tailstock. Might get lucky and spot a
version that would work


As predicted -- the link did not work. They are of short
duration, I think -- generated after your search -- and sent away
sometime after you leave the side. :-)

And my older Firefox was having problems (with lots of security
stuff enabled), so I went to a linux-based one and managed to find what
you were talking about.

Looking at them -- most of them are too small (max 3/8" thread
and mine needs a 1/2-13 thread), and would be really difficult to feed
into the hole. The original (still have the bolt) had a carriage bolt
head for anti-rotation under the locking plate, and the thread passed up
into the tailstock -- a cavity between the plate and the housing for the
ram. The lever went around that and passed into a hinged plate on top
of the lever, and a nut went on top of that all to adjust where the
lever actually locked the carriage.

The only ones big enough (the "heavy duty" ones) either have a
long threaded stud sticking down (I would have to put a nut on under the
plate -- which is quite difficult to get to -- and a real pain to remove
again when the time comes to swap in the bed turret for the tailstock.

The lever appears to have to stick straight up for maximum
clamping (no room given the barrel the ram runs in). Sort of a crowded
room between the barrel and the carriage plate.

I have one without the stud -- which I would have to spend some
hours grinding to the right profile (a fairly short travel of the lever
from locked to loose), and make a guide for the screw and a thrust
surface on the top for the nut to bear on. The one without the stud
came from MSC a number of years ago. At least it is a start on the size
needed.

I may someday do that.

For yours, what about making something to fit in the other end
which is hex of the right size for the wrench and has an extension also
hex (or square if so needed) to fit the carriage lock -- and if
necessary, Loctite it into the hex socket in the wrench. That way, one
wrench for both jobs.


The carriage lock on mine is really rinky-dink. Just a tiny little M6
cap screw that uses a small hex key. I'd have to take a serious look at
it for possible hazards but that would be a nice place to put a cam
lock of some sort...


M6 is rather small -- and that wrench would make it easy to
wring off the head.

Maybe turn your own screw for it -- with a flange below the hex
so you could rest the wrench on it -- and a hex large enough for a
smaller version of the ratchet wrench.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
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Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-05-18, Leon Fisk wrote:
On 18 May 2019 01:27:57 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

snip
The original design was a lever and cam to pull up the nut, but
that is not with mine (lost before I got the tailstock) and no
longer
stocked by Clausing last I asked. So, I have a slip-on hex wrench
made
for a Logan, with a long hex nut, with the center of the hex turned
to a
cylinder so I can pull the wrench up a bit and slip it to the next
teeth
in the socket. (No, I can't get to the back easily enough to
switch the
ratchet direction on your inexpensive wrenches. Maybe I can make a
remote for the reverse switch and then use your wrench type for the
task.


One of Jim's good ideas (thanks, knowledge is good!) got me to
thinking
I'd seen cammed bolts used on bicycle wheels and seat posts... On a
hunch I searched McMaster and found these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#cams/=ae27...08aabejvttr64k

If the link doesn't work (McMaster links are always iffy) search on
"cams" then "clamping handles". You might want to look through
these if
you still want to fix your tailstock. Might get lucky and spot a
version that would work


As predicted -- the link did not work. They are of short
duration, I think -- generated after your search -- and sent away
sometime after you leave the side. :-)

And my older Firefox was having problems (with lots of security
stuff enabled), so I went to a linux-based one and managed to find
what
you were talking about.

Looking at them -- most of them are too small (max 3/8" thread
and mine needs a 1/2-13 thread), and would be really difficult to
feed
into the hole. The original (still have the bolt) had a carriage
bolt
head for anti-rotation under the locking plate, and the thread
passed up
into the tailstock -- a cavity between the plate and the housing for
the
ram. The lever went around that and passed into a hinged plate on
top
of the lever, and a nut went on top of that all to adjust where the
lever actually locked the carriage.

The only ones big enough (the "heavy duty" ones) either have a
long threaded stud sticking down (I would have to put a nut on under
the
plate -- which is quite difficult to get to -- and a real pain to
remove
again when the time comes to swap in the bed turret for the
tailstock.

The lever appears to have to stick straight up for maximum
clamping (no room given the barrel the ram runs in). Sort of a
crowded
room between the barrel and the carriage plate.

I have one without the stud -- which I would have to spend some
hours grinding to the right profile (a fairly short travel of the
lever
from locked to loose), and make a guide for the screw and a thrust
surface on the top for the nut to bear on. The one without the stud
came from MSC a number of years ago. At least it is a start on the
size
needed.

I may someday do that.

For yours, what about making something to fit in the other end
which is hex of the right size for the wrench and has an extension
also
hex (or square if so needed) to fit the carriage lock -- and if
necessary, Loctite it into the hex socket in the wrench. That way,
one
wrench for both jobs.


The carriage lock on mine is really rinky-dink. Just a tiny little
M6
cap screw that uses a small hex key. I'd have to take a serious
look at
it for possible hazards but that would be a nice place to put a cam
lock of some sort...


M6 is rather small -- and that wrench would make it easy to
wring off the head.

Maybe turn your own screw for it -- with a flange below the hex
so you could rest the wrench on it -- and a hex large enough for a
smaller version of the ratchet wrench.

Good Luck,
DoN.


A "ferry head" bolt like this might work:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10467
The extra points should help keep a 5/16" or 8mm box end wrench from
falling off.


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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On 20 May 2019 01:42:07 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

snip
The only ones big enough (the "heavy duty" ones) either have a
long threaded stud sticking down (I would have to put a nut on under the
plate -- which is quite difficult to get to -- and a real pain to remove
again when the time comes to swap in the bed turret for the tailstock.

The lever appears to have to stick straight up for maximum
clamping (no room given the barrel the ram runs in). Sort of a crowded
room between the barrel and the carriage plate...


I suspected that it was a whole lot more complicated and a
generic drop in wouldn't be a simple fix. Or you would have done it
already

M6 is rather small -- and that wrench would make it easy to
wring off the head.

Maybe turn your own screw for it -- with a flange below the hex
so you could rest the wrench on it -- and a hex large enough for a
smaller version of the ratchet wrench.


It annoyed me when I first saw how it was made. But frankly I just
don't use it enough for it to be a problem. I now have Your's, Jim's
and my own ideas on how it could be made better if it becomes
cumbersome in the future...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On 2019-05-20, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-05-18, Leon Fisk wrote:
On 18 May 2019 01:27:57 GMT


[ ... ]

The carriage lock on mine is really rinky-dink. Just a tiny little
M6
cap screw that uses a small hex key. I'd have to take a serious
look at
it for possible hazards but that would be a nice place to put a cam
lock of some sort...


M6 is rather small -- and that wrench would make it easy to
wring off the head.

Maybe turn your own screw for it -- with a flange below the hex
so you could rest the wrench on it -- and a hex large enough for a
smaller version of the ratchet wrench.

Good Luck,
DoN.


A "ferry head" bolt like this might work:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10467
The extra points should help keep a 5/16" or 8mm box end wrench from
falling off.


I've got a number of these in SS -- 5/16" and 1/4" -- which were
one-time use bolts for vacuum systems -- the reason for one-time use is
that the whole system had to be heated to burn out deposits on the
surface of the enclosure. And the seals were knife-edges which bit into
either side of soft copper gaskets -- also one-time use. :-)

I *think* that the real reason for that head was that it was
stronger when torquing the bolts to proper tension.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---


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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-05-20, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-05-18, Leon Fisk wrote:
On 18 May 2019 01:27:57 GMT


[ ... ]

The carriage lock on mine is really rinky-dink. Just a tiny
little
M6
cap screw that uses a small hex key. I'd have to take a serious
look at
it for possible hazards but that would be a nice place to put a
cam
lock of some sort...

M6 is rather small -- and that wrench would make it easy to
wring off the head.

Maybe turn your own screw for it -- with a flange below the hex
so you could rest the wrench on it -- and a hex large enough for a
smaller version of the ratchet wrench.

Good Luck,
DoN.


A "ferry head" bolt like this might work:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10467
The extra points should help keep a 5/16" or 8mm box end wrench
from
falling off.


I've got a number of these in SS -- 5/16" and 1/4" -- which were
one-time use bolts for vacuum systems -- the reason for one-time use
is
that the whole system had to be heated to burn out deposits on the
surface of the enclosure. And the seals were knife-edges which bit
into
either side of soft copper gaskets -- also one-time use. :-)

I *think* that the real reason for that head was that it was
stronger when torquing the bolts to proper tension.

Enjoy,
DoN.


http://www.oilfieldwiki.com/wiki/Fer..._%26_Set_Screw


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