Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Van Norman Mill

Hello, my 1st thread here.
I recently bought a Van Norman 24MLA. It uses the round bar overarm. I don't believe the overarm has ever been used & the overarm supports lend to the idea. Is there some special way of unlocking the overarm from it's fully retracted position? I have removed both binders & soaked the arm with WD40. I am prepared to hook up a 10 ton portapower to make it move - but do not want to damage anything. The manual takes for granted I know more than I do. The blow up drawings simply show a round rod installed with 2 binders & nothing else to hinder it's movement.

All input welcome (except the politics WOW).

b
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Default Van Norman Mill

On Mon, 3 Apr 2017 00:36:54 -0700 (PDT), Brock
wrote:

Hello, my 1st thread here.
I recently bought a Van Norman 24MLA. It uses the round bar overarm. I don't believe the overarm has ever been used & the overarm supports lend to the idea. Is there some special way of unlocking the overarm from it's fully retracted position? I have removed both binders & soaked the arm with WD40. I am prepared to hook up a 10 ton portapower to make it move - but do not want to damage anything. The manual takes for granted I know more than I do. The blow up drawings simply show a round rod installed with 2 binders & nothing else to hinder it's movement.

All input welcome (except the politics WOW).

b


Its probably rusted into place. Less likely is its jammed into place.
Remove the 2 " locks" and spray the snot out of everything with
either Kroil or P'Blaster and let it sit for a day or so. If it still
wont move, take a 4x4 and have someone hold it on the ass end of the
overarm and smack the 4x4 with a sledgehammer. Now...does this one
have a rack that pulls and pushes the overarm? Some do. Make sure one
of those "locks" is not a lock, but a lever to turn the gear on the
rack.

I had a Van Norman #36 for a couple years, but its a flat dovetail
machine (with 1 lock and 1 crank)

https://goo.gl/photos/7LBcBhvfD1MVWB5n8

Gunner

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Default Van Norman Mill

On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 9:58:37 PM UTC-5, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 3 Apr 2017 00:36:54 -0700 (PDT), Brock
wrote:

Hello, my 1st thread here.
I recently bought a Van Norman 24MLA. It uses the round bar overarm. I don't believe the overarm has ever been used & the overarm supports lend to the idea. Is there some special way of unlocking the overarm from it's fully retracted position? I have removed both binders & soaked the arm with WD40. I am prepared to hook up a 10 ton portapower to make it move - but do not want to damage anything. The manual takes for granted I know more than I do. The blow up drawings simply show a round rod installed with 2 binders & nothing else to hinder it's movement.

All input welcome (except the politics WOW).

b


Its probably rusted into place. Less likely is its jammed into place.
Remove the 2 " locks" and spray the snot out of everything with
either Kroil or P'Blaster and let it sit for a day or so. If it still
wont move, take a 4x4 and have someone hold it on the ass end of the
overarm and smack the 4x4 with a sledgehammer. Now...does this one
have a rack that pulls and pushes the overarm? Some do. Make sure one
of those "locks" is not a lock, but a lever to turn the gear on the
rack.

I had a Van Norman #36 for a couple years, but its a flat dovetail
machine (with 1 lock and 1 crank)

https://goo.gl/photos/7LBcBhvfD1MVWB5n8

Gunner

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Thanks Gunner!

I got it freed up! There is a threaded bore in the front with an Allen head plug. This front threaded bore is the same size as the end of 1 of the drawbars (2 were included in my purchase). Also, 2 overarm bars with spacers came with it. So, after much soaking with PB-Blaster, I fashioned a slide hammer out of the above parts & now the overarm moves freely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Default Van Norman Mill

On Fri, 7 Apr 2017 18:13:36 -0700 (PDT), Brock
wrote:

On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 9:58:37 PM UTC-5, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 3 Apr 2017 00:36:54 -0700 (PDT), Brock
wrote:

Hello, my 1st thread here.
I recently bought a Van Norman 24MLA. It uses the round bar overarm. I don't believe the overarm has ever been used & the overarm supports lend to the idea. Is there some special way of unlocking the overarm from it's fully retracted position? I have removed both binders & soaked the arm with WD40. I am prepared to hook up a 10 ton portapower to make it move - but do not want to damage anything. The manual takes for granted I know more than I do. The blow up drawings simply show a round rod installed with 2 binders & nothing else to hinder it's movement.

All input welcome (except the politics WOW).

b


Its probably rusted into place. Less likely is its jammed into place.
Remove the 2 " locks" and spray the snot out of everything with
either Kroil or P'Blaster and let it sit for a day or so. If it still
wont move, take a 4x4 and have someone hold it on the ass end of the
overarm and smack the 4x4 with a sledgehammer. Now...does this one
have a rack that pulls and pushes the overarm? Some do. Make sure one
of those "locks" is not a lock, but a lever to turn the gear on the
rack.

I had a Van Norman #36 for a couple years, but its a flat dovetail
machine (with 1 lock and 1 crank)

https://goo.gl/photos/7LBcBhvfD1MVWB5n8

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


Thanks Gunner!

I got it freed up! There is a threaded bore in the front with an Allen head plug. This front threaded bore is the same size as the end of 1 of the drawbars (2 were included in my purchase). Also, 2 overarm bars with spacers came with it. So, after much soaking with PB-Blaster, I fashioned a slide hammer out of the above parts & now the overarm moves freely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



You will LOVE that machine once you get the hang of using it. They
truely are brutes and are very hard to wear out enough to hurt the
accuracy of the cut. Slower to use in todays "high speed"
world..but they are absolutely the tits for heavy work or home shop
machinists.

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