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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

I have read quite a bit about lead burning, but it does not seem appropriate for my requirement.

From a previous life in the Middle East I inherited about 100 lead acid cells. I emptied the acid out, washed them thoroughly with distilled water, then dried them in the sun, - there was lots of it! I sealed the tops and shipped them all back to UK. From time to time I have resurrected a few to make up 12 volt batteries and full of sulphuric acid they performed OK and lasted a reasonable time.

A few years ago I was looking at connecting a lot together to run a more powerful inverter. but it has become more and more difficult to get sulphuric acid, health and safety don't you know.

I discovered that the electrolyte could be change to a saturated solution of Alum (aluminium Sulphate) which is pretty docile compared to the acid and works as well. I got a bank working OK but soon noticed a few cells were getting a very high internal resistance and finally found that the positive cells were kind of corroded so as to break off and the junction of the pos.. post and the bar holding the plates.

This was nothing to do with the electrolyte as even the ones full of acid were the same and fresh ones from my old stock showed a very weak join on the same place. I can only assume that the age of these cells has caused the internal corrosion in this area and it is only the Pos. plates which are affected, the negative ones are like new and very strongly connected.

I tried my hand at soldering then together, but failed miserably and tried to clamp the fracture together in one cell but the resistance of the clamped break, which I filed to give a clean metal to metal joint is very high and so the discharge current is tiny compared with a good cell.

So how do you weld lead stopping it all from falling into a molten mess?

The lead sections to be re-joined are quite thick at about a quarter of an inch, but it may need to be set up in a kind of jig, or mould, to allow the lead to flow without it all melting at once.

Has anyone any ideas of how I might recover so many cells without giving up the rest of my life to the task?

Thanks for any thoughts. Oh yes I have just installed a 40 Kw 3 phase generator in my workshop but it is far too noisy and also I don't really need so much horsepower It is driven by an air cooled Lister 4 cylinder diesel. I don't suppose anyone would like to swap this for a 15-20 Kw QUIET set I live in Norfolk and it is a bit heavy too, but I can lift it with my old JCB. I also have a couple of 30 Hp motors for sale or swap and a strange 400 c/s or rather Hertz Yes that is not a misprint it is 3 phase 415 volts and was part of a frequency converter and was driven in line by the motor above. Made to computer standards by Maudsley. I can send details and photos to anyone interested, I think there are already some on my website which is Maribel Eco Systems dot Co dot UK. in the old engines section the title has no spaces by the way, no caps either.

Regards George.



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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 07:21:53 -0700 (PDT), George
wrote:

I have read quite a bit about lead burning, but it does not seem appropriate for my requirement.

From a previous life in the Middle East I inherited about 100 lead acid cells. I emptied the acid out, washed them thoroughly with distilled water, then dried them in the sun, - there was lots of it! I sealed the tops and shipped them all back to UK. From time to time I have resurrected a few to make up 12 volt batteries and full of sulphuric acid they performed OK and lasted a reasonable time.

A few years ago I was looking at connecting a lot together to run a more powerful inverter. but it has become more and more difficult to get sulphuric acid, health and safety don't you know.

I discovered that the electrolyte could be change to a saturated solution of Alum (aluminium Sulphate) which is pretty docile compared to the acid and works as well. I got a bank working OK but soon noticed a few cells were getting a very high internal resistance and finally found that the positive cells were kind of corroded so as to break off and the junction of the pos. post and the bar holding the plates.

This was nothing to do with the electrolyte as even the ones full of acid were the same and fresh ones from my old stock showed a very weak join on the same place. I can only assume that the age of these cells has caused the internal corrosion in this area and it is only the Pos. plates which are affected, the negative ones are like new and very strongly connected.

I tried my hand at soldering then together, but failed miserably and tried to clamp the fracture together in one cell but the resistance of the clamped break, which I filed to give a clean metal to metal joint is very high and so the discharge current is tiny compared with a good cell.

So how do you weld lead stopping it all from falling into a molten mess?

The lead sections to be re-joined are quite thick at about a quarter of an inch, but it may need to be set up in a kind of jig, or mould, to allow the lead to flow without it all melting at once.

Has anyone any ideas of how I might recover so many cells without giving up the rest of my life to the task?

Years ago I went to a welding class and the instructor was an older
chap that had been welding since the days of gas welding only. He
recounted his experiences lead burning the walls of an x-ray room.
From his description he used a gas torch.

It was a long time ago but my recollection was that it must have been
much like gas welding aluminum.

Or you could watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm0o1g4ejys
or
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzBK7S8cCGU
--
Cheers,

John B.

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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On 2017-03-22, George wrote:

I have read quite a bit about lead burning, but it does not seem
appropriate for my requirement.


[ ... positive terminals/plates disconnecting ... ]

I tried my hand at soldering then together, but failed miserably and
tried to clamp the fracture together in one cell but the resistance of
the clamped break, which I filed to give a clean metal to metal joint is
very high and so the discharge current is tiny compared with a good
cell.


So how do you weld lead stopping it all from falling into a molten
mess?


I fear that I can't answer this. Proably as a start, a channel
which fits the bars closely and is of a material which is not likely to
bond to the lead might help. Perhaps a ceramic.

[ ... ]

I also have a couple of 30 Hp motors for sale or swap
and a strange 400 c/s or rather Hertz Yes that is not a misprint it is 3
phase 415 volts and was part of a frequency converter and was driven in
line by the motor above. Made to computer standards by Maudsley. I can
send details and photos to anyone interested, I think there are already
some on my website which is Maribel Eco Systems dot Co dot UK. in the
old engines section the title has no spaces by the way, no caps either.


400 Hz (or in old terminology, cycles per second, was commonly
used in two places. One, apparently is where yours was used -- power
distribution for mainframe computers. It allowed physically smaller
local power supplies to be distributed through the system.

The other, and where I am more familiar with it, is for
electronics in aircraft. 400 Hz transformers are a lot lighter than 60
Hz ones capable of transmitting the same power, so almost everything in
aircraft (military and larger civilian at least) is made to run from 400
Hz. And it is typically 115 V three phase to drive the rotors in
gyroscopes for inertial navigation systems, and to make sure that they
rotate they right direction. I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V 400 Hz 3 phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)

I'm experimenting with instruments (some of which are normally
driven from the inertial navigation system mentioned above), but the
instruments only need single phase 115 VAC for internal power, and
signals from synchros (also called Selsyns) which are sort of three
phase, but not really at power levels. The actual phase relationship
of the three leads, and the relative voltages, carry angular
information.

I've recently gotten the necessary parts to drive a Variac
(variable autotransformer) made for 400 Hz with 20 VAC out of an audio
power amplifier, and boost it to the needed voltages -- 120 VAC from
another tap on the winding, and 26 VAC from the wiper.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V 400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.


You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

-jsw


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V 400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.


You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

-jsw


http://www.enginehistory.org/gwhitecol.shtml





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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V 400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.


You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.


I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget, and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V 400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.


You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.


I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget, and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works out to around
a dollar per second.


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.


I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.


I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!

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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 08:55:14 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V 400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.


You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.


Like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iu2yYoIpEJc


-jsw


http://www.enginehistory.org/gwhitecol.shtml


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH4OtjCSCbU Nice!


--
The more you know, the less you need.
-- Aboriginal Saying
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:05:00 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.


I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!


Dad was a crop duster (in addition to rice, cows, and making levee
rollers). We ran R-985's on Super Ag Cats back then. I can still
remember the sounds of one catching and firing up. He'd often have me
or my brother run one at 1000 rpm to warm up, sitting with our feet on
the brakes. Especially after the brake lock failed on one and it
rolled forward until the prop hit a full oil drum. It threw that drum
about 50 yards, cut almost in two with big spiral slices. It made
quite a mess.

Pete Keillor


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:05:00 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.


I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!


Dad was a crop duster (in addition to rice, cows, and making levee
rollers). We ran R-985's on Super Ag Cats back then. I can still
remember the sounds of one catching and firing up. He'd often have
me
or my brother run one at 1000 rpm to warm up, sitting with our feet
on
the brakes. Especially after the brake lock failed on one and it
rolled forward until the prop hit a full oil drum. It threw that
drum
about 50 yards, cut almost in two with big spiral slices. It made
quite a mess.

Pete Keillor


http://www.avialogs.com/en/engines/u...t-engines.html


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 10:41:38 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:05:00 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news "DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.

I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!


Dad was a crop duster (in addition to rice, cows, and making levee
rollers). We ran R-985's on Super Ag Cats back then. I can still
remember the sounds of one catching and firing up. He'd often have
me
or my brother run one at 1000 rpm to warm up, sitting with our feet
on
the brakes. Especially after the brake lock failed on one and it
rolled forward until the prop hit a full oil drum. It threw that
drum
about 50 yards, cut almost in two with big spiral slices. It made
quite a mess.


Whew! What'd the replacement prop blades cost?


http://www.avialogs.com/en/engines/u...t-engines.html


Wow, with a 5x5" bore/stroke, she's not a petite engine.

Those 35 specialty tools used on those are likely -expensive- dinosaur
teeth, wot? I think I'll DL and read that entire manual for kicks.

It's too bad I graduated from high school directly into alcoholism.
Being an Air Force brat, I loved flying and would have chosen an
aviation tech school and become an aircraft mechanic and pilot rather
than an auto mechanic, but I didn't want to join the military, either.
July 10th, I'll be 32 years sober, Crom willing.

--
The more you know, the less you need.
-- Aboriginal Saying
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Friday, March 24, 2017 at 8:12:12 AM UTC-4, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:05:00 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.


I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!


Dad was a crop duster (in addition to rice, cows, and making levee
rollers). We ran R-985's on Super Ag Cats back then. I can still
remember the sounds of one catching and firing up. He'd often have me
or my brother run one at 1000 rpm to warm up, sitting with our feet on
the brakes. Especially after the brake lock failed on one and it
rolled forward until the prop hit a full oil drum. It threw that drum
about 50 yards, cut almost in two with big spiral slices. It made
quite a mess.

Pete Keillor


If you really want to hear the round engines talk, you need to be in the cockpit of a DC-6A on a cold day in AL. Doing engine runs after a few jug changes. The procedure after breakin was to take all 4 to max. takeoff power dry, and then throw all 4 water/meth ganged switches on the eyebrow panel. First time I witnessed it, it was a schock. It was rocking in the chocks and the whole aircraft shuddered. What mechanical music that was. P&W wrote the book on radials with the 2800. When I went to Boeing 767 school in Seattle, the instructors had deep respect for P&W. Called them the Pratt Iron Works in deference to their tough engines. My son is a PhD aerospace engineer and works for Pratt now designing mil. engines. And that's metalworking content.
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 10:41:38 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:05:00 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news "DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.

I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!


Dad was a crop duster (in addition to rice, cows, and making levee
rollers). We ran R-985's on Super Ag Cats back then. I can still
remember the sounds of one catching and firing up. He'd often have
me
or my brother run one at 1000 rpm to warm up, sitting with our feet
on
the brakes. Especially after the brake lock failed on one and it
rolled forward until the prop hit a full oil drum. It threw that
drum
about 50 yards, cut almost in two with big spiral slices. It made
quite a mess.

Pete Keillor


http://www.avialogs.com/en/engines/u...t-engines.html

Thanks, I'll download that. I've seen a running 1/5 scale model. I
don't know if it had the supercharger.

Pete
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 10:41:38 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:05:00 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news "DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.

I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!

Dad was a crop duster (in addition to rice, cows, and making levee
rollers). We ran R-985's on Super Ag Cats back then. I can still
remember the sounds of one catching and firing up. He'd often
have
me
or my brother run one at 1000 rpm to warm up, sitting with our
feet
on
the brakes. Especially after the brake lock failed on one and it
rolled forward until the prop hit a full oil drum. It threw that
drum
about 50 yards, cut almost in two with big spiral slices. It made
quite a mess.

Pete Keillor


http://www.avialogs.com/en/engines/u...t-engines.html

Thanks, I'll download that. I've seen a running 1/5 scale model. I
don't know if it had the supercharger.

Pete


Way down on my to-do list:
http://www.agelessengines.com/9cyl.htm
http://www.5bears.com/observe.htm
-jsw




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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Sat, 25 Mar 2017 09:06:45 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 10:41:38 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:05:00 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news "DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.

I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!

Dad was a crop duster (in addition to rice, cows, and making levee
rollers). We ran R-985's on Super Ag Cats back then. I can still
remember the sounds of one catching and firing up. He'd often
have
me
or my brother run one at 1000 rpm to warm up, sitting with our
feet
on
the brakes. Especially after the brake lock failed on one and it
rolled forward until the prop hit a full oil drum. It threw that
drum
about 50 yards, cut almost in two with big spiral slices. It made
quite a mess.

Pete Keillor

http://www.avialogs.com/en/engines/u...t-engines.html

Thanks, I'll download that. I've seen a running 1/5 scale model. I
don't know if it had the supercharger.

Pete


Way down on my to-do list:
http://www.agelessengines.com/9cyl.htm
http://www.5bears.com/observe.htm
-jsw

Fantastic! I used to have (lost in a move) plans for a 1/5 scale
A-26. I initially got into machining from 1. workplace envy (I
designed stuff, the shop got to build) and 2. the desire, unrealistic
though it might be, to power that model with actual radials. If not
18 cyl (your R-2800), then at least 9.

Way down on the list is a good description.

Pete
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Sat, 25 Mar 2017 07:40:50 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 10:41:38 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:05:00 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news "DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.

I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!

Dad was a crop duster (in addition to rice, cows, and making levee
rollers). We ran R-985's on Super Ag Cats back then. I can still
remember the sounds of one catching and firing up. He'd often have
me
or my brother run one at 1000 rpm to warm up, sitting with our feet
on
the brakes. Especially after the brake lock failed on one and it
rolled forward until the prop hit a full oil drum. It threw that
drum
about 50 yards, cut almost in two with big spiral slices. It made
quite a mess.

Pete Keillor


http://www.avialogs.com/en/engines/u...t-engines.html

Thanks, I'll download that. I've seen a running 1/5 scale model. I
don't know if it had the supercharger.

Pete


The full sized '985 had a gear driven centrifugal supercharger as did
many radial engines. Perhaps more to ensure even fuel distribution to
the radial cylinders than to generate more power. If the 1/5th scale
model didn't then it's lower cylinders likely ran rich while the upper
cylinders ran lean :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

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"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 25 Mar 2017 09:06:45 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

....
Way down on my to-do list:
http://www.agelessengines.com/9cyl.htm
http://www.5bears.com/observe.htm
-jsw

Fantastic! I used to have (lost in a move) plans for a 1/5 scale
A-26. I initially got into machining from 1. workplace envy (I
designed stuff, the shop got to build) and 2. the desire,
unrealistic
though it might be, to power that model with actual radials. If not
18 cyl (your R-2800), then at least 9.

Way down on the list is a good description.

Pete


It was a small fraction of my excuse to buy this 6-jaw chuck:
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2276&category=

Yesterday I tapped broom threads
https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1869.../dp/B0000DD0T7
in 1/2" plastic electrical conduit to make a tool that fits on a
painting extension pole. Neither a 3-jaw nor that 6-jaw would grip
well enough to resist the tapping torque and I had to use a 27/32"
collet. My main excuse to buy the 6-jaw was to chuck tubing larger
than 5C collet size.

That chuck has a gap in its gripping range. It doesn't open much
beyond 1" before the jaws slip off the scroll and the minimum ID it
will fit is 1.310"

The tapped hole was too small to screw on by hand until I
heat-softened the PVC. Threads in oak fit better so the plastic must
have deformed.
-jsw


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 07:04:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 25 Mar 2017 09:06:45 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

....
Way down on my to-do list:
http://www.agelessengines.com/9cyl.htm
http://www.5bears.com/observe.htm
-jsw

Fantastic! I used to have (lost in a move) plans for a 1/5 scale
A-26. I initially got into machining from 1. workplace envy (I
designed stuff, the shop got to build) and 2. the desire,
unrealistic
though it might be, to power that model with actual radials. If not
18 cyl (your R-2800), then at least 9.

Way down on the list is a good description.

Pete


It was a small fraction of my excuse to buy this 6-jaw chuck:
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2276&category=

Yesterday I tapped broom threads
https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1869.../dp/B0000DD0T7
in 1/2" plastic electrical conduit to make a tool that fits on a
painting extension pole. Neither a 3-jaw nor that 6-jaw would grip
well enough to resist the tapping torque and I had to use a 27/32"
collet. My main excuse to buy the 6-jaw was to chuck tubing larger
than 5C collet size.

That chuck has a gap in its gripping range. It doesn't open much
beyond 1" before the jaws slip off the scroll and the minimum ID it
will fit is 1.310"

The tapped hole was too small to screw on by hand until I
heat-softened the PVC. Threads in oak fit better so the plastic must
have deformed.
-jsw


I did something similar, only I single pointed it in aluminum. Cut it
upside down to have the bit leaving the hole. I had to modify the
acme profile some to get the handle to spin in. It was for an adapter
to allow me to get the engine flush bracket onto my outboard while
hanging over the transom (it was in a marina on a lift at the time).

http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp10.jpg

Beat cracking the cartilage in my ribs, which I did twice before
making it.

That tap would have been handy.

Pete
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 09:42:18 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Sat, 25 Mar 2017 07:40:50 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 10:41:38 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:05:00 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
news "DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
message
...
On 2017-03-22, George wrote:
...
...I have a rotary converter which takes in 28
VDC at perhaps 20 Amps or more, and produces the 115 V
400 Hz 3
phase.
It also produces more audio noise than I like. :-)
...
DoN.

You need an R-2800 to mask the converter's noise.

I guess that it would -- but is a bit out of my budget,
and
probably the town would not let me run it very long. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

The operating cost for some of those old warbirds works
out to around a dollar per second.

I loved the sound of those A-1 Skyraiders at NKP!

Dad was a crop duster (in addition to rice, cows, and making levee
rollers). We ran R-985's on Super Ag Cats back then. I can still
remember the sounds of one catching and firing up. He'd often have
me
or my brother run one at 1000 rpm to warm up, sitting with our feet
on
the brakes. Especially after the brake lock failed on one and it
rolled forward until the prop hit a full oil drum. It threw that
drum
about 50 yards, cut almost in two with big spiral slices. It made
quite a mess.

Pete Keillor

http://www.avialogs.com/en/engines/u...t-engines.html

Thanks, I'll download that. I've seen a running 1/5 scale model. I
don't know if it had the supercharger.

Pete


The full sized '985 had a gear driven centrifugal supercharger as did
many radial engines. Perhaps more to ensure even fuel distribution to
the radial cylinders than to generate more power. If the 1/5th scale
model didn't then it's lower cylinders likely ran rich while the upper
cylinders ran lean :-)


It was probably in there. He even had a miniature of the PW emblem on
the oil sump between the bottom two cylinders.

Pete Keillor


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 07:04:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 25 Mar 2017 09:06:45 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

....
Way down on my to-do list:
http://www.agelessengines.com/9cyl.htm
http://www.5bears.com/observe.htm
-jsw

Fantastic! I used to have (lost in a move) plans for a 1/5 scale
A-26. I initially got into machining from 1. workplace envy (I
designed stuff, the shop got to build) and 2. the desire,
unrealistic
though it might be, to power that model with actual radials. If
not
18 cyl (your R-2800), then at least 9.

Way down on the list is a good description.

Pete


It was a small fraction of my excuse to buy this 6-jaw chuck:
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2276&category=

Yesterday I tapped broom threads
https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1869.../dp/B0000DD0T7
in 1/2" plastic electrical conduit to make a tool that fits on a
painting extension pole. Neither a 3-jaw nor that 6-jaw would grip
well enough to resist the tapping torque and I had to use a 27/32"
collet. My main excuse to buy the 6-jaw was to chuck tubing larger
than 5C collet size.

That chuck has a gap in its gripping range. It doesn't open much
beyond 1" before the jaws slip off the scroll and the minimum ID it
will fit is 1.310"

The tapped hole was too small to screw on by hand until I
heat-softened the PVC. Threads in oak fit better so the plastic must
have deformed.
-jsw


I did something similar, only I single pointed it in aluminum. Cut
it
upside down to have the bit leaving the hole. I had to modify the
acme profile some to get the handle to spin in. It was for an
adapter
to allow me to get the engine flush bracket onto my outboard while
hanging over the transom (it was in a marina on a lift at the time).

http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp10.jpg

Beat cracking the cartilage in my ribs, which I did twice before
making it.

That tap would have been handy.

Pete


Nice work!

The cutting edge on the broom tap is about as sharply raked as a wood
chisel so I decided not to risk it on metal.

The cast zinc male threaded end on the extension pole didn't stand up
to the tasks I gave it and broke off. I turned an aluminum replacement
and shifted the more strenuous jobs to an unthreaded pool cleaning
extension pole, which has stood up to the stresses of scooping the
gutters and raking crusted snow off the roof.

The secret to scooping the gutters from the ground was making mounting
brackets that didn't interfere.
-jsw


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 10:09:34 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 07:04:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 25 Mar 2017 09:06:45 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

....
Way down on my to-do list:
http://www.agelessengines.com/9cyl.htm
http://www.5bears.com/observe.htm
-jsw

Fantastic! I used to have (lost in a move) plans for a 1/5 scale
A-26. I initially got into machining from 1. workplace envy (I
designed stuff, the shop got to build) and 2. the desire,
unrealistic
though it might be, to power that model with actual radials. If
not
18 cyl (your R-2800), then at least 9.

Way down on the list is a good description.

Pete

It was a small fraction of my excuse to buy this 6-jaw chuck:
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2276&category=

Yesterday I tapped broom threads
https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1869.../dp/B0000DD0T7
in 1/2" plastic electrical conduit to make a tool that fits on a
painting extension pole. Neither a 3-jaw nor that 6-jaw would grip
well enough to resist the tapping torque and I had to use a 27/32"
collet. My main excuse to buy the 6-jaw was to chuck tubing larger
than 5C collet size.

That chuck has a gap in its gripping range. It doesn't open much
beyond 1" before the jaws slip off the scroll and the minimum ID it
will fit is 1.310"

The tapped hole was too small to screw on by hand until I
heat-softened the PVC. Threads in oak fit better so the plastic must
have deformed.
-jsw


I did something similar, only I single pointed it in aluminum. Cut
it
upside down to have the bit leaving the hole. I had to modify the
acme profile some to get the handle to spin in. It was for an
adapter
to allow me to get the engine flush bracket onto my outboard while
hanging over the transom (it was in a marina on a lift at the time).

http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp10.jpg


Why do you want to do it from inside the boat? On friends' boats,
they/we always put the flusher on the outboard (or I/O) from the
ground, then turned the water on, then started the engine for a
minute.


Beat cracking the cartilage in my ribs, which I did twice before
making it.


Ouch! Didn't learn the first time, wot? BTDT. sigh


That tap would have been handy.


They're nice. The threadboxes are great, too.


Nice work!


Yabbut, no serrations in the elbow?
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...nungsringe.JPG


The cutting edge on the broom tap is about as sharply raked as a wood
chisel so I decided not to risk it on metal.

The cast zinc male threaded end on the extension pole didn't stand up
to the tasks I gave it and broke off.


Bummer.


I turned an aluminum replacement
and shifted the more strenuous jobs to an unthreaded pool cleaning
extension pole, which has stood up to the stresses of scooping the
gutters and raking crusted snow off the roof.


Those were major adjustments to your method. C'est la vie.


The secret to scooping the gutters from the ground was making mounting
brackets that didn't interfere.


For the gutter itself, or the scoop end?

--
The more you know, the less you need.
-- Aboriginal Saying
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 10:09:34 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

....
The secret to scooping the gutters from the ground was making
mounting
brackets that didn't interfere.


For the gutter itself, or the scoop end?


For both. It seems better to angle the scoop about 45 degrees to push
the leaf debris along to pile up and spill over the edge, instead of
trying to scoop it up directly. I left off the end caps at the
downspout tees to let the scoop push the debris straight out. A piece
of gutter runs straight through the downspout tee, a center cutout
lets the water drop but doesn't snag the scoop.

Fortunately I guessed right the first time on the stiffness of the
gutter hangers and didn't have to replace them or add more in between.
-jsw


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On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 13:21:04 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 10:09:34 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

....
The secret to scooping the gutters from the ground was making
mounting
brackets that didn't interfere.


For the gutter itself, or the scoop end?


For both. It seems better to angle the scoop about 45 degrees to push
the leaf debris along to pile up and spill over the edge, instead of
trying to scoop it up directly. I left off the end caps at the
downspout tees to let the scoop push the debris straight out. A piece
of gutter runs straight through the downspout tee, a center cutout
lets the water drop but doesn't snag the scoop.


Nice.

Fortunately I guessed right the first time on the stiffness of the
gutter hangers and didn't have to replace them or add more in between.


Cool.

With only one tree to contend with, an 80' Sequoia sempervirens (15'
from the house sigh) my tool is a golf-club style scythe
http://www.s200643392.onlinehome.us/img/6287262.jpg and the water hose
with a pistol grip and brass concentrator screwed onto the end. My
roof is 4:12 and easy to walk on. I wrapped about 10 layers of
masking tape on the scythe blade so it doesn't scratch the paint, then
push and lift the debris out as it builds up, spraying the remains
down the open-ended downspouts at each end, a 1/2 hour job twice a
year.

I picked up a curved wand attachment http://tinyurl.com/n2dknyt for my
PW and will try that the next time I break out the PW, using the large
nozzle to lower the pressure and mess.


--
The more you know, the less you need.
-- Aboriginal Saying
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 09:30:39 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 10:09:34 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 07:04:09 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
m...
On Sat, 25 Mar 2017 09:06:45 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

....
Way down on my to-do list:
http://www.agelessengines.com/9cyl.htm
http://www.5bears.com/observe.htm
-jsw

Fantastic! I used to have (lost in a move) plans for a 1/5 scale
A-26. I initially got into machining from 1. workplace envy (I
designed stuff, the shop got to build) and 2. the desire,
unrealistic
though it might be, to power that model with actual radials. If
not
18 cyl (your R-2800), then at least 9.

Way down on the list is a good description.

Pete

It was a small fraction of my excuse to buy this 6-jaw chuck:
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2276&category=

Yesterday I tapped broom threads
https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1869.../dp/B0000DD0T7
in 1/2" plastic electrical conduit to make a tool that fits on a
painting extension pole. Neither a 3-jaw nor that 6-jaw would grip
well enough to resist the tapping torque and I had to use a 27/32"
collet. My main excuse to buy the 6-jaw was to chuck tubing larger
than 5C collet size.

That chuck has a gap in its gripping range. It doesn't open much
beyond 1" before the jaws slip off the scroll and the minimum ID it
will fit is 1.310"

The tapped hole was too small to screw on by hand until I
heat-softened the PVC. Threads in oak fit better so the plastic must
have deformed.
-jsw


I did something similar, only I single pointed it in aluminum. Cut
it
upside down to have the bit leaving the hole. I had to modify the
acme profile some to get the handle to spin in. It was for an
adapter
to allow me to get the engine flush bracket onto my outboard while
hanging over the transom (it was in a marina on a lift at the time).

http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp10.jpg


Why do you want to do it from inside the boat? On friends' boats,
they/we always put the flusher on the outboard (or I/O) from the
ground, then turned the water on, then started the engine for a
minute.

There was no ground. The boat went from lift into the water, then
upon return, straight back onto the lift hanging over the water.

Beat cracking the cartilage in my ribs, which I did twice before
making it.


Ouch! Didn't learn the first time, wot? BTDT. sigh


That tap would have been handy.


They're nice. The threadboxes are great, too.


Nice work!


Yabbut, no serrations in the elbow?
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...nungsringe.JPG


The cutting edge on the broom tap is about as sharply raked as a wood
chisel so I decided not to risk it on metal.

The cast zinc male threaded end on the extension pole didn't stand up
to the tasks I gave it and broke off.


Bummer.


I turned an aluminum replacement
and shifted the more strenuous jobs to an unthreaded pool cleaning
extension pole, which has stood up to the stresses of scooping the
gutters and raking crusted snow off the roof.


Those were major adjustments to your method. C'est la vie.


The secret to scooping the gutters from the ground was making mounting
brackets that didn't interfere.


For the gutter itself, or the scoop end?



  #26   Report Post  
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Posts: 5,888
Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 13:21:04 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

...
With only one tree to contend with, an 80' Sequoia sempervirens (15'
from the house sigh) my tool is a golf-club style scythe
http://www.s200643392.onlinehome.us/img/6287262.jpg and the water
hose
with a pistol grip and brass concentrator screwed onto the end. My
roof is 4:12 and easy to walk on. I wrapped about 10 layers of
masking tape on the scythe blade so it doesn't scratch the paint,
then
push and lift the debris out as it builds up, spraying the remains
down the open-ended downspouts at each end, a 1/2 hour job twice a
year.

I picked up a curved wand attachment http://tinyurl.com/n2dknyt for
my
PW and will try that the next time I break out the PW, using the
large
nozzle to lower the pressure and mess.


I bought this telescoping spray nozzle to wash the road salt from
under the car
https://www.amazon.com/Bon-Aire-7738.../dp/B003FV3DAU
and then thought it might help with the gutters.

The extension tube I made is 1/2" EMT adapted to garden hose thread
with a standard watertight fitting on one end. I bored a male
hose-to-NPT fitting to slide over the EMT and attach the sprayer to
the other end.

The outer tube slides over the EMT and a rubber hose washer seals the
joint and holds the sprayer in place.

It does work, however I can't see how well from the ground and rinsing
the gutter with town water to reduce the debris in my rain barrel
counters the purpose of the rain barrel. A filter of landscaping
fabric over 1/4" hardware cloth is more effective.
-jsw


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 07:39:18 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 13:21:04 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

...
With only one tree to contend with, an 80' Sequoia sempervirens (15'
from the house sigh) my tool is a golf-club style scythe
http://www.s200643392.onlinehome.us/img/6287262.jpg and the water
hose
with a pistol grip and brass concentrator screwed onto the end. My
roof is 4:12 and easy to walk on. I wrapped about 10 layers of
masking tape on the scythe blade so it doesn't scratch the paint,
then
push and lift the debris out as it builds up, spraying the remains
down the open-ended downspouts at each end, a 1/2 hour job twice a
year.

I picked up a curved wand attachment http://tinyurl.com/n2dknyt for
my
PW and will try that the next time I break out the PW, using the
large
nozzle to lower the pressure and mess.


I bought this telescoping spray nozzle to wash the road salt from
under the car
https://www.amazon.com/Bon-Aire-7738.../dp/B003FV3DAU
and then thought it might help with the gutters.


Man, talk about _obvious_ Photoshopping on the outlet stream from that
thing in those pictures. I'm sure, having used it, you'll agree. g
Does debris not get stuck at the support spikes? It does with a
regular hose and my brass concentrator/sweeper nozzle, which is why I
"shovel" first with the scythe and then wash. I thought the PW att.
would solve that easily.


The extension tube I made is 1/2" EMT adapted to garden hose thread
with a standard watertight fitting on one end. I bored a male
hose-to-NPT fitting to slide over the EMT and attach the sprayer to
the other end.


Nice, and just the length you need.


The outer tube slides over the EMT and a rubber hose washer seals the
joint and holds the sprayer in place.

It does work, however I can't see how well from the ground and rinsing
the gutter with town water to reduce the debris in my rain barrel
counters the purpose of the rain barrel. A filter of landscaping
fabric over 1/4" hardware cloth is more effective.


I have an extra water barrel diverter from my sister, so I'll have to
think about that extra filtering, too. I installed her diverter and
two barrels in one spot, next to her garden, and drilled a 3/4" hole
for a connector tube between them, allowing the one diverter to fill
both barrels.

Maybe I can just put the LS cloth over my existing light-bulb shaped
hardware cloth filter for that downspout...

--
The more you know, the less you need.
-- Aboriginal Saying
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On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 05:45:50 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Mar 2017 09:30:39 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...


I did something similar, only I single pointed it in aluminum. Cut
it
upside down to have the bit leaving the hole. I had to modify the
acme profile some to get the handle to spin in. It was for an
adapter
to allow me to get the engine flush bracket onto my outboard while
hanging over the transom (it was in a marina on a lift at the time).

http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/FlushKitClamp10.jpg


Why do you want to do it from inside the boat? On friends' boats,
they/we always put the flusher on the outboard (or I/O) from the
ground, then turned the water on, then started the engine for a
minute.

There was no ground. The boat went from lift into the water, then
upon return, straight back onto the lift hanging over the water.


Crikey, how did I miss that "marina" phrase? sigh Mea culpa.

--
The more you know, the less you need.
-- Aboriginal Saying
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 07:39:18 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


I bought this telescoping spray nozzle to wash the road salt from
under the car
https://www.amazon.com/Bon-Aire-7738.../dp/B003FV3DAU
and then thought it might help with the gutters.


Man, talk about _obvious_ Photoshopping on the outlet stream from
that
thing in those pictures. I'm sure, having used it, you'll agree.
g
Does debris not get stuck at the support spikes? It does with a
regular hose and my brass concentrator/sweeper nozzle, which is why
I
"shovel" first with the scythe and then wash. I thought the PW att.
would solve that easily.


What support spikes? My custom hangers wrap around underneath and
don't obstruct the top at all. The joint and downspout fittings are
screwed to the house, which is enough to prevent the gutter sections
from blowing away.

...A filter of landscaping
fabric over 1/4" hardware cloth is more effective.


I have an extra water barrel diverter from my sister, so I'll have
to
think about that extra filtering, too. I installed her diverter and
two barrels in one spot, next to her garden, and drilled a 3/4" hole
for a connector tube between them, allowing the one diverter to fill
both barrels.

Maybe I can just put the LS cloth over my existing light-bulb shaped
hardware cloth filter for that downspout...


I dished the screen that covers the $12 trashcan water barrels up
around the edges and down in the center like a volcano crater. The
downspout ends in an accordion section that can be made to stay in
place over the center or pulled straight down for the winter. The LS
cloth keeps out mosquitos.

Hardware cloth is easy to sculpt freehand, or into smooth curves by
pushing it into the mouth of a metal trashcan or bucket. Sheetmetal
Vise-Grips can fold over the sharp cut edge.

How did you seal the connector tube? My method of making bulkhead
fittings from hose repair ends may not be reliable.

-jsw


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 13:04:44 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 07:39:18 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


I bought this telescoping spray nozzle to wash the road salt from
under the car
https://www.amazon.com/Bon-Aire-7738.../dp/B003FV3DAU
and then thought it might help with the gutters.


Man, talk about _obvious_ Photoshopping on the outlet stream from
that
thing in those pictures. I'm sure, having used it, you'll agree.
g
Does debris not get stuck at the support spikes? It does with a
regular hose and my brass concentrator/sweeper nozzle, which is why
I
"shovel" first with the scythe and then wash. I thought the PW att.
would solve that easily.


What support spikes? My custom hangers wrap around underneath and
don't obstruct the top at all. The joint and downspout fittings are
screwed to the house, which is enough to prevent the gutter sections
from blowing away.


Well, ain't you fancy? That makes is much quicker and easier if the
amount of debris doesn't clog on the roofing. My sheathing hangs over
the fascia by 1/2" and the roofing/tarpaper 3/4" more, so my opening
is narrower, plus the spikes. That's why I like the little scythe,
which is narrow enough to allow bending of the sequoia droppings, with
their little 3/4x1" cones on the end, as I scoop it out. Even a
narrow trowel got caught up.


...A filter of landscaping
fabric over 1/4" hardware cloth is more effective.


I have an extra water barrel diverter from my sister, so I'll have
to
think about that extra filtering, too. I installed her diverter and
two barrels in one spot, next to her garden, and drilled a 3/4" hole
for a connector tube between them, allowing the one diverter to fill
both barrels.

Maybe I can just put the LS cloth over my existing light-bulb shaped
hardware cloth filter for that downspout...


I dished the screen that covers the $12 trashcan water barrels up
around the edges and down in the center like a volcano crater. The
downspout ends in an accordion section that can be made to stay in
place over the center or pulled straight down for the winter. The LS
cloth keeps out mosquitos.


Good point. My sister doesn't have them in NorCal, but we do up here.
Do you have to take in the barrels for the winter, for fear of
freezing, or empty them?


Hardware cloth is easy to sculpt freehand, or into smooth curves by
pushing it into the mouth of a metal trashcan or bucket. Sheetmetal
Vise-Grips can fold over the sharp cut edge.


Needle nosed vise-grips work well, too.


How did you seal the connector tube? My method of making bulkhead
fittings from hose repair ends may not be reliable.


I was going to use ShoeGoo (it adheres to damnear everything) but she
didn't have any. She told me not to worry about it since it was a
fairly snug plastic-plastic fit. Her plastic barrels were narrow and
tapered, like a Reeky Ricardo tall bongo drum, so she loses maybe 4
gallons by not storing to the top. I don't think I'd follow the
directions to the letter any more, and put any connectors I install
farther toward the top of the drum. This looks like a fairly good
deal for long-term: http://tinyurl.com/mx3z86m or
http://tinyurl.com/lw4b29x
And a spigot: http://tinyurl.com/kdtg9cc

Or a combo which might prevent skeeters: http://tinyurl.com/lfga854

--
The more you know, the less you need.
-- Aboriginal Saying


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 13:04:44 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


Good point. My sister doesn't have them in NorCal, but we do up
here.
Do you have to take in the barrels for the winter, for fear of
freezing, or empty them?


In winter they store wood splints from the log splitter, for kindling.
I don't know if these Rubbermaid trash cans would survive freezing.
Open-topped oil drums freeze last at the ground end so the core of
water pushes the bottom into a dome.

I've forgotten to empty the garden sprayers I modified into fire
extinguishers but freezing didn't hurt them (so far).

How did you seal the connector tube? My method of making bulkhead
fittings from hose repair ends may not be reliable.


I was going to use ShoeGoo (it adheres to damnear everything) but
she
didn't have any. She told me not to worry about it since it was a
fairly snug plastic-plastic fit. Her plastic barrels were narrow
and
tapered, like a Reeky Ricardo tall bongo drum, so she loses maybe 4
gallons by not storing to the top. I don't think I'd follow the
directions to the letter any more, and put any connectors I install
farther toward the top of the drum. This looks like a fairly good
deal for long-term: http://tinyurl.com/mx3z86m or
http://tinyurl.com/lw4b29x
And a spigot: http://tinyurl.com/kdtg9cc

Or a combo which might prevent skeeters: http://tinyurl.com/lfga854


Thanks. Lowes wants too much for similar plastic bulkhead fittings and
mine flex from pull on the hose. They are replacement hose end
fittings with the barb threaded for a locknut.
-jsw


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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

On 2017-03-26, Jim Wilkins wrote:

[ ... ]

It was a small fraction of my excuse to buy this 6-jaw chuck:
http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2276&category=

Yesterday I tapped broom threads
https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1869.../dp/B0000DD0T7
in 1/2" plastic electrical conduit to make a tool that fits on a
painting extension pole. Neither a 3-jaw nor that 6-jaw would grip
well enough to resist the tapping torque and I had to use a 27/32"
collet. My main excuse to buy the 6-jaw was to chuck tubing larger
than 5C collet size.

That chuck has a gap in its gripping range. It doesn't open much
beyond 1" before the jaws slip off the scroll and the minimum ID it
will fit is 1.310"


No reversed jaws? Ideally, two-piece jaws so you can reverse
the top jaws while keeping the scroll engaged.

O.K. A 4" chuck, and they explicitly say the outside jaws are
not included -- but I see them as nice to have for some tubing sizes
anyway.

My usual chuck is a 6-1/4" Bison with two-piece jaws. I do have
a 6" 6-jaw, and I also don't have the outside jaws, and *want* them. :-)

The tapped hole was too small to screw on by hand until I
heat-softened the PVC. Threads in oak fit better so the plastic must
have deformed.


Stretched during the tapping, and shrunk back a bit afterwards.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Default Lead Burning plates inside old lead acid cells

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2017-03-26, Jim Wilkins wrote:

[ ... ]


My usual chuck is a 6-1/4" Bison with two-piece jaws. I do have
a 6" 6-jaw, and I also don't have the outside jaws, and *want* them.
:-)

Enjoy,
DoN.


Since I have a larger 4-jaw, Bob Cumings at NE Brass and Tool talked
me into a 5" Bison 3-jaw Set-Tru for my 10" South Bend, because the
carriage can pass under it to put the tool post on the left side (or
maybe to get rid of an oddball size that didn't sell?)

I keep left-side cutting pressure from sliding the work off the jaws
with a sleeve of pipe and a live pipe center. When hand tapping or
reaming large holes having the carriage completely out of the way has
been very convenient and probably safer.

-jsw


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