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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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OT, 8N will not start
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice.
I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either. As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained: 1= 85psi 2= almost 90 psi 3= almost 90 psi 4= almost 80 psi I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil: 1= 120 psi 2= 130 psi 3= 105 psi 4= 95 psi I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat. I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak. I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. |
#2
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OT, 8N will not start
On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice. I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either. As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained: 1= 85psi 2= almost 90 psi 3= almost 90 psi 4= almost 80 psi I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil: 1= 120 psi 2= 130 psi 3= 105 psi 4= 95 psi I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat. I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak. I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing. You could try asking here. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi George H. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
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#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote: writes: I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never know. In the late 60s, we once had a 25HP VW Beetle in the shop. It would start but ran very poorly, rough and no power. Borderline but uniform compression. All the usual stuff gave no improvement. The owner agreed to a rebuild. It was someting of a project to get all the parts for a (then already) old model. Because we had been stumped, we went overboard with scrutiny. Every part was checked against original VW specs. No ring, valve, bearing, cam, gear, piston, sleeve or anything was out of spec. No signs of damage or excessive wear in places for which there were no specs such as seals and gaskets. Put it all together and it ran like a top. We never knew what we had fixed. Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing. Cam wear or timing? Valves not opening right would allow OK compression but inhibit fire. You could try asking here. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi -- Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote: On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote: writes: I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never know. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote: On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote: writes: I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never know. This is an 8N http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 13:46:42 -0400, wrote:
You could try asking here. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi George H. My suspicion, given what little "facts" we have is the timing is off by 180 degrees at the distributor Indeed. Or the spark plug wires are in the wrong order. Ive mentioned the issue I had with my forklift when I got it. SAME identical problem. Someone had put the wrong plug wires on the wrong terminals (intentionally) --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
... On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer wrote: On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote: writes: I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never know. This is an 8N http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg That is a LOVINGLY RESTORED 8N. |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
dpb fired this volley in :
Bingo! We have a winner... Huh... Betcha anything he's got some plug wires swapped. I had an 8N for fifteen years. You really _can't_ screw up the timing so badly that it would be 180 out. Lloyd |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
Gunner Asch fired this volley in
: Indeed. Or the spark plug wires are in the wrong order. Bingo! L |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
"Bob La Londe" fired this volley in news:nu3dlb$egs$1
@dont-email.me: That is a LOVINGLY RESTORED 8N. 'Had one for fifteen years. I fully restored it, and it mowed, graded, and did all the stuff a 36HP tractor shouldn't be able to do! Lloyd |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 12:46:53 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 08:26:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote: I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice. I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas.. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either. As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained: 1= 85psi 2= almost 90 psi 3= almost 90 psi 4= almost 80 psi I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil: 1= 120 psi 2= 130 psi 3= 105 psi 4= 95 psi I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat. I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak. I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing. You could try asking here. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi George H. My suspicion, given what little "facts" we have is the timing is off by 180 degrees at the distributor . Pull the plugs. Crank the engine untill you get a rush of air out of #1 cyl then line up the timing mark. Turn the ignition on and turn the distributor "backwards" until the points just open, producing a spark at the coil. Make sure the rotor points at the number one tower on the cap, and then make sure the rest of the wires follow the firing order. That will ensure the timing is close enough to run. Then make sure the spark plugs are clean and dry with the proper gap, and make sure the spark is hot enough to jump a 1/4 inch gap in open air. The spark needs to be a hot blue spark. Make sure the coil is connected in the right direction (polarity). On a negative ground system the points must be connected to the negative side of the coil, and on a positive ground, on the positive side.. Make sure the point gap is set to spec, the points are clean, and the capacitor (condenser) is good and well grounded.. The final thing is drain ALL of the old gas out and start over with fresh gasoline. I would use ethanol free gas if possible (usually that means premium - what you use afterwardss is up to you - but for initial startup at least, just humor me and use the "good stuff". Prime the cyls with about 1/4 oz of fuel and start with the throttle half open. If you did all that properly the engine WILL start. No ifs, ands, or buts about it. This 8n has the front mount distributor. There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out. It has tanks on the bottom of the distributor that engage the cam. It will only go on one way. It also has a square can ignition coil on top of the distributor. Distributor is similar to this: http://www.my9n.com/timing.htm |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
stryped fired this volley in news:329f1a87-9d96-4e8d-
: There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out Like I said. I owned one. You've got plug wires swapped. I'd be willing to bet on it. L |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 4.170... "Bob La Londe" fired this volley in news:nu3dlb$egs$1 @dont-email.me: That is a LOVINGLY RESTORED 8N. 'Had one for fifteen years. I fully restored it, and it mowed, graded, and did all the stuff a 36HP tractor shouldn't be able to do! Lloyd I don't know. My 10 year old 33hp 4wd John Deere, drives a 12" auger in caliche, Rototills 60" wide, and will suck up steel water pipe and even solid steel concrete form stakes with enough power to wrap it around between the tines and keep going. (have to cut it out with a torch) The 700lb payload bucket has even been used to lower over 2000lbs (with bucket forks) from a truck bed to the ground once or twice. I use a blade (that's way to big for it) to plow/rip trenches when needed, and it has so far never failed to pull itself out of its own holes when I shift it to 4WD and stand on the locker lever. When I have had to slear brush cutting the stump jumper will suck up a lost water hose and spit out little 1 foot chunks without even slowing down. 33HP is a lot when properly applied. My grandfather ran a John Deere model M since 1950 which while a larger frame develops probably even less gross HP. My dad has that tractor now. I've seen that tractor hit a root ball and do a wheely. |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On 10/17/2016 4:20 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
fired this volley in : Bingo! We have a winner... Huh... Betcha anything he's got some plug wires swapped. I had an 8N for fifteen years. You really _can't_ screw up the timing so badly that it would be 180 out. Putting it in reversed'll do it... |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On 10/17/2016 5:07 PM, stryped wrote:
.... This 8n has the front mount distributor. There really is no way to getthe distributor 180 out. It has tanks on the bottom of the distributor that engage the cam. It will only go on one way. ... Hmmm, well, ok, if you says so...never had one and certainly have seen any number of other engines that would be quite easy to do so... I'd've thunk you'd checked firing order and wiring many multiple times by now already, though, as for just a order... |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote: On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote: writes: I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never know. 8n is an old Ford tractor produced fron 1939 to 1952. In the late 60s, we once had a 25HP VW Beetle in the shop. It would start but ran very poorly, rough and no power. Borderline but uniform compression. All the usual stuff gave no improvement. The owner agreed to a rebuild. It was someting of a project to get all the parts for a (then already) old model. Because we had been stumped, we went overboard with scrutiny. Every part was checked against original VW specs. No ring, valve, bearing, cam, gear, piston, sleeve or anything was out of spec. No signs of damage or excessive wear in places for which there were no specs such as seals and gaskets. Put it all together and it ran like a top. We never knew what we had fixed. Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing. Cam wear or timing? Valves not opening right would allow OK compression but inhibit fire. You could try asking here. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi |
#19
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 16:20:40 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: dpb fired this volley in : Bingo! We have a winner... Huh... Betcha anything he's got some plug wires swapped. I had an 8N for fifteen years. You really _can't_ screw up the timing so badly that it would be 180 out. Lloyd Sure you can. Just start with #1 wire where #4 should be. Firing order 1243. The timing marks line up perfectly both wats. |
#20
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 16:21:07 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: Gunner Asch fired this volley in : Indeed. Or the spark plug wires are in the wrong order. Bingo! L Same thing - if he did it "almost" right. Same order but half a turn out. The timing mark is behind a removeable plug - on the flywheel. |
#21
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 15:07:25 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote: On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 12:46:53 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote: On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 08:26:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote: I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice. I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either. As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained: 1= 85psi 2= almost 90 psi 3= almost 90 psi 4= almost 80 psi I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil: 1= 120 psi 2= 130 psi 3= 105 psi 4= 95 psi I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat. I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak. I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing. You could try asking here. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi George H. My suspicion, given what little "facts" we have is the timing is off by 180 degrees at the distributor . Pull the plugs. Crank the engine untill you get a rush of air out of #1 cyl then line up the timing mark. Turn the ignition on and turn the distributor "backwards" until the points just open, producing a spark at the coil. Make sure the rotor points at the number one tower on the cap, and then make sure the rest of the wires follow the firing order. That will ensure the timing is close enough to run. Then make sure the spark plugs are clean and dry with the proper gap, and make sure the spark is hot enough to jump a 1/4 inch gap in open air. The spark needs to be a hot blue spark. Make sure the coil is connected in the right direction (polarity). On a negative ground system the points must be connected to the negative side of the coil, and on a positive ground, on the positive side.. Make sure the point gap is set to spec, the points are clean, and the capacitor (condenser) is good and well grounded.. The final thing is drain ALL of the old gas out and start over with fresh gasoline. I would use ethanol free gas if possible (usually that means premium - what you use afterwardss is up to you - but for initial startup at least, just humor me and use the "good stuff". Prime the cyls with about 1/4 oz of fuel and start with the throttle half open. If you did all that properly the engine WILL start. No ifs, ands, or buts about it. This 8n has the front mount distributor. There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out. It has tanks on the bottom of the distributor that engage the cam. It will only go on one way. It also has a square can ignition coil on top of the distributor. Distributor is similar to this: http://www.my9n.com/timing.htm 90 and 180 degrees out is simple. Just start from the wrong hole - - - |
#22
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
Gunner Asch writes: On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer wrote: I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never know. This is an 8N http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg Oh, right. Thanks. Shiny! I'm pretty sure I saw ones like in use decades ago that were...ummm... not shiny. :-) There's a club here that does restorations like that but their clubhouse/workshop is 90 miles away. I try go get to their shows but they're too far away to get to the regular meets. They're into single-bangers, too, and I have a couple of those but no rig to take them to the shows. -- Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada |
#23
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 23:03:36 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 16:21:07 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: Gunner Asch fired this volley in m: Indeed. Or the spark plug wires are in the wrong order. Bingo! L Same thing - if he did it "almost" right. Same order but half a turn out. The timing mark is behind a removeable plug - on the flywheel. Firing order is 1243 as I recall. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#24
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On 18 Oct 2016 03:29:45 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote: Gunner Asch writes: On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer wrote: I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never know. This is an 8N http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg Oh, right. Thanks. Shiny! I'm pretty sure I saw ones like in use decades ago that were...ummm... not shiny. :-) There's a club here that does restorations like that but their clubhouse/workshop is 90 miles away. I try go get to their shows but they're too far away to get to the regular meets. They're into single-bangers, too, and I have a couple of those but no rig to take them to the shows. Im looking or a Hit N Miss engine to play with, if anyone runs into one. Gunner --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#25
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OT, 8N will not start
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
... On 18 Oct 2016 03:29:45 -0300, Mike Spencer wrote: Gunner Asch writes: On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer wrote: I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never know. This is an 8N http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg Oh, right. Thanks. Shiny! I'm pretty sure I saw ones like in use decades ago that were...ummm... not shiny. :-) There's a club here that does restorations like that but their clubhouse/workshop is 90 miles away. I try go get to their shows but they're too far away to get to the regular meets. They're into single-bangers, too, and I have a couple of those but no rig to take them to the shows. Im looking or a Hit N Miss engine to play with, if anyone runs into one. Gunner The owner of a local surplus store is trying to get me to make a gear for an antique cement mixer run from one of his hit & miss engines. I told him to make a smoothly meshing sheet metal mockup of what he wants, to use as a template for a form cutter, though I suspect it will be too large for my Clausing mill to drive unless he'll accept an aluminum gear. --jsw |
#26
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OT, 8N will not start
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 08:26:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote: I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat. giggle Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing. Crom! Nothing online here today except 15 replies to a known troll? -- If government were a product, selling it would be illegal. --P.J. O'Rourke |
#27
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OT, 8N will not start
On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 5:12:26 PM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:329f1a87-9d96-4e8d- : There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out Like I said. I owned one. You've got plug wires swapped. I'd be willing to bet on it. L Here is the video of the spark I am getting. It was made quickly last night.... https://youtu.be/uD0WS6WOkFY |
#28
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
Just a thought, last one I worked on with a similar problem had a cap that didn't fit quite right onto the distributor. Ended up having to add a shim under the retaining strap to keep it running till the owner got a different cap.
Try having someone hold down on the cap to firmly seat it to the distributor while cranking it over. On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 10:03:36 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote: On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 5:12:26 PM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: stryped fired this volley in news:329f1a87-9d96-4e8d- : There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out Like I said. I owned one. You've got plug wires swapped. I'd be willing to bet on it. L Here is the video of the spark I am getting. It was made quickly last night.... https://youtu.be/uD0WS6WOkFY |
#29
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OT, 8N will not start
On 10/17/2016 9:21 AM, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice. I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either. As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained: 1= 85psi 2= almost 90 psi 3= almost 90 psi 4= almost 80 psi I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil: 1= 120 psi 2= 130 psi 3= 105 psi 4= 95 psi I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat. I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak. I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. I don't know diddley about tractors, but look at the image on this page: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...but-not-8.html |
#30
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On 10/18/2016 9:33 PM, Steve Walker wrote:
On 10/17/2016 9:21 AM, stryped wrote: I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice. I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either. As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained: 1= 85psi 2= almost 90 psi 3= almost 90 psi 4= almost 80 psi I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil: 1= 120 psi 2= 130 psi 3= 105 psi 4= 95 psi I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat. I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak. I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. I don't know diddley about tractors, but look at the image on this page: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...but-not-8.html I forgot about a similar problem I had back in the early 80's with a 1966 Plymouth. Would almost start. New plugs, wires, cap, points, condenser, the works. Turned out condenser was bad, even though it was new. 2 days messing around. |
#31
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On Tue, 18 Oct 2016 21:37:09 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote: On 10/18/2016 9:33 PM, Steve Walker wrote: On 10/17/2016 9:21 AM, stryped wrote: I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice. I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either. As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained: 1= 85psi 2= almost 90 psi 3= almost 90 psi 4= almost 80 psi I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil: 1= 120 psi 2= 130 psi 3= 105 psi 4= 95 psi I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat. I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak. I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point. I don't know diddley about tractors, but look at the image on this page: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...but-not-8.html I forgot about a similar problem I had back in the early 80's with a 1966 Plymouth. Would almost start. New plugs, wires, cap, points, condenser, the works. Turned out condenser was bad, even though it was new. 2 days messing around. IF he is getting a hot blue spark the condenser is OK. If it is weakand orange it may well be the problem. |
#32
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
On 10/18/2016 3:20 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 18 Oct 2016 03:29:45 -0300, Mike Spencer wrote: Gunner Asch writes: On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer wrote: I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never know. This is an 8N http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg Oh, right. Thanks. Shiny! I'm pretty sure I saw ones like in use decades ago that were...ummm... not shiny. :-) There's a club here that does restorations like that but their clubhouse/workshop is 90 miles away. I try go get to their shows but they're too far away to get to the regular meets. They're into single-bangers, too, and I have a couple of those but no rig to take them to the shows. Im looking or a Hit N Miss engine to play with, if anyone runs into one. Arnold Schneider of Sioux Falls, South Dakota has several of those and in good working order. Gunner --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -- It is hardly too strong to say that the Constitution was made to guard the people against the dangers of good intentions. There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but *They mean to govern*. They promise to be good masters, *but they mean to be masters*. Daniel Webster |
#33
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT, 8N will not start
Google Early Day Gas Engine and Tractor Ass. There are branches all
over the US. At their "Gas Up's" There are usually some for sale. CP |
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