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Default OT, 8N will not start

I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice.

I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either.

As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained:
1= 85psi
2= almost 90 psi
3= almost 90 psi
4= almost 80 psi

I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil:
1= 120 psi
2= 130 psi
3= 105 psi
4= 95 psi

I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat.

I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak.

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.
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Default OT, 8N will not start

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice.

I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either.

As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained:
1= 85psi
2= almost 90 psi
3= almost 90 psi
4= almost 80 psi

I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil:
1= 120 psi
2= 130 psi
3= 105 psi
4= 95 psi

I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat.

I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak.

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.


Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing.

You could try asking here.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi

George H.
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Default OT, 8N will not start

On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 08:26:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice.

I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either.

As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained:
1= 85psi
2= almost 90 psi
3= almost 90 psi
4= almost 80 psi

I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil:
1= 120 psi
2= 130 psi
3= 105 psi
4= 95 psi

I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat.

I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak.

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.


Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing.

You could try asking here.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi

George H.

My suspicion, given what little "facts" we have is the timing is off
by 180 degrees at the distributor . Pull the plugs. Crank the engine
untill you get a rush of air out of #1 cyl then line up the timing
mark. Turn the ignition on and turn the distributor "backwards" until
the points just open, producing a spark at the coil. Make sure the
rotor points at the number one tower on the cap, and then make sure
the rest of the wires follow the firing order. That will ensure the
timing is close enough to run. Then make sure the spark plugs are
clean and dry with the proper gap, and make sure the spark is hot
enough to jump a 1/4 inch gap in open air. The spark needs to be a hot
blue spark. Make sure the coil is connected in the right direction
(polarity). On a negative ground system the points must be connected
to the negative side of the coil, and on a positive ground, on the
positive side.. Make sure the point gap is set to spec, the points are
clean, and the capacitor (condenser) is good and well grounded..

The final thing is drain ALL of the old gas out and start over with
fresh gasoline. I would use ethanol free gas if possible (usually that
means premium - what you use afterwardss is up to you - but for
initial startup at least, just humor me and use the "good stuff".
Prime the cyls with about 1/4 oz of fuel and start with the throttle
half open.

If you did all that properly the engine WILL start. No ifs, ands, or
buts about it.
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Default OT, 8N will not start

On 10/17/2016 12:46 PM, wrote:
....

My suspicion, given what little "facts" we have is the timing is off
by 180 degrees at the distributor. ...


Bingo! We have a winner...
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Default OT, 8N will not start

On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:

writes:

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.


I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never
know.


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Default OT, 8N will not start

On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:

writes:

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.


I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never
know.


This is an 8N

http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg


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Default OT, 8N will not start

On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 13:46:42 -0400, wrote:


You could try asking here.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi

George H.

My suspicion, given what little "facts" we have is the timing is off
by 180 degrees at the distributor


Indeed. Or the spark plug wires are in the wrong order.

Ive mentioned the issue I had with my forklift when I got it. SAME
identical problem. Someone had put the wrong plug wires on the wrong
terminals (intentionally)


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Default OT, 8N will not start

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:

writes:

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.


I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you never
know.


This is an 8N

http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg


That is a LOVINGLY RESTORED 8N.



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Default OT, 8N will not start

dpb fired this volley in :


Bingo! We have a winner...


Huh... Betcha anything he's got some plug wires swapped. I had an 8N for
fifteen years. You really _can't_ screw up the timing so badly that it
would be 180 out.

Lloyd


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Gunner Asch fired this volley in
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Indeed. Or the spark plug wires are in the wrong order.



Bingo!
L
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"Bob La Londe" fired this volley in news:nu3dlb$egs$1
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That is a LOVINGLY RESTORED 8N.


'Had one for fifteen years. I fully restored it, and it mowed, graded, and
did all the stuff a 36HP tractor shouldn't be able to do!

Lloyd
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On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 12:46:53 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 08:26:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice.

I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas.. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either.

As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained:
1= 85psi
2= almost 90 psi
3= almost 90 psi
4= almost 80 psi

I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil:
1= 120 psi
2= 130 psi
3= 105 psi
4= 95 psi

I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat.

I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak.

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.


Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing.

You could try asking here.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi

George H.

My suspicion, given what little "facts" we have is the timing is off
by 180 degrees at the distributor . Pull the plugs. Crank the engine
untill you get a rush of air out of #1 cyl then line up the timing
mark. Turn the ignition on and turn the distributor "backwards" until
the points just open, producing a spark at the coil. Make sure the
rotor points at the number one tower on the cap, and then make sure
the rest of the wires follow the firing order. That will ensure the
timing is close enough to run. Then make sure the spark plugs are
clean and dry with the proper gap, and make sure the spark is hot
enough to jump a 1/4 inch gap in open air. The spark needs to be a hot
blue spark. Make sure the coil is connected in the right direction
(polarity). On a negative ground system the points must be connected
to the negative side of the coil, and on a positive ground, on the
positive side.. Make sure the point gap is set to spec, the points are
clean, and the capacitor (condenser) is good and well grounded..

The final thing is drain ALL of the old gas out and start over with
fresh gasoline. I would use ethanol free gas if possible (usually that
means premium - what you use afterwardss is up to you - but for
initial startup at least, just humor me and use the "good stuff".
Prime the cyls with about 1/4 oz of fuel and start with the throttle
half open.

If you did all that properly the engine WILL start. No ifs, ands, or
buts about it.


This 8n has the front mount distributor. There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out. It has tanks on the bottom of the distributor that engage the cam. It will only go on one way. It also has a square can ignition coil on top of the distributor.

Distributor is similar to this: http://www.my9n.com/timing.htm

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stryped fired this volley in news:329f1a87-9d96-4e8d-
:

There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out


Like I said. I owned one. You've got plug wires swapped. I'd be willing
to bet on it.

L
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Default OT, 8N will not start

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 4.170...
"Bob La Londe" fired this volley in news:nu3dlb$egs$1
@dont-email.me:


That is a LOVINGLY RESTORED 8N.


'Had one for fifteen years. I fully restored it, and it mowed, graded,
and
did all the stuff a 36HP tractor shouldn't be able to do!

Lloyd


I don't know. My 10 year old 33hp 4wd John Deere, drives a 12" auger in
caliche, Rototills 60" wide, and will suck up steel water pipe and even
solid steel concrete form stakes with enough power to wrap it around between
the tines and keep going. (have to cut it out with a torch) The 700lb
payload bucket has even been used to lower over 2000lbs (with bucket forks)
from a truck bed to the ground once or twice. I use a blade (that's way to
big for it) to plow/rip trenches when needed, and it has so far never failed
to pull itself out of its own holes when I shift it to 4WD and stand on the
locker lever. When I have had to slear brush cutting the stump jumper will
suck up a lost water hose and spit out little 1 foot chunks without even
slowing down.

33HP is a lot when properly applied.

My grandfather ran a John Deere model M since 1950 which while a larger
frame develops probably even less gross HP. My dad has that tractor now.
I've seen that tractor hit a root ball and do a wheely.












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On 10/17/2016 4:20 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
fired this volley in :


Bingo! We have a winner...


Huh... Betcha anything he's got some plug wires swapped. I had an 8N for
fifteen years. You really _can't_ screw up the timing so badly that it
would be 180 out.


Putting it in reversed'll do it...

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On 10/17/2016 5:07 PM, stryped wrote:
....

This 8n has the front mount distributor. There really is no way to
getthe distributor 180 out. It has tanks on the bottom of the distributor
that engage the cam. It will only go on one way. ...


Hmmm, well, ok, if you says so...never had one and certainly have seen
any number of other engines that would be quite easy to do so...

I'd've thunk you'd checked firing order and wiring many multiple times
by now already, though, as for just a order...
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Default OT, 8N will not start

On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 16:20:40 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

dpb fired this volley in :


Bingo! We have a winner...


Huh... Betcha anything he's got some plug wires swapped. I had an 8N for
fifteen years. You really _can't_ screw up the timing so badly that it
would be 180 out.

Lloyd

Sure you can. Just start with #1 wire where #4 should be. Firing order
1243. The timing marks line up perfectly both wats.
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Default OT, 8N will not start

On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 16:21:07 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:


Indeed. Or the spark plug wires are in the wrong order.



Bingo!
L

Same thing - if he did it "almost" right. Same order but half a turn
out.
The timing mark is behind a removeable plug - on the flywheel.


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On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 15:07:25 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 12:46:53 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 08:26:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice.

I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either.

As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained:
1= 85psi
2= almost 90 psi
3= almost 90 psi
4= almost 80 psi

I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil:
1= 120 psi
2= 130 psi
3= 105 psi
4= 95 psi

I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat.

I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak.

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.

Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing.

You could try asking here.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi

George H.

My suspicion, given what little "facts" we have is the timing is off
by 180 degrees at the distributor . Pull the plugs. Crank the engine
untill you get a rush of air out of #1 cyl then line up the timing
mark. Turn the ignition on and turn the distributor "backwards" until
the points just open, producing a spark at the coil. Make sure the
rotor points at the number one tower on the cap, and then make sure
the rest of the wires follow the firing order. That will ensure the
timing is close enough to run. Then make sure the spark plugs are
clean and dry with the proper gap, and make sure the spark is hot
enough to jump a 1/4 inch gap in open air. The spark needs to be a hot
blue spark. Make sure the coil is connected in the right direction
(polarity). On a negative ground system the points must be connected
to the negative side of the coil, and on a positive ground, on the
positive side.. Make sure the point gap is set to spec, the points are
clean, and the capacitor (condenser) is good and well grounded..

The final thing is drain ALL of the old gas out and start over with
fresh gasoline. I would use ethanol free gas if possible (usually that
means premium - what you use afterwardss is up to you - but for
initial startup at least, just humor me and use the "good stuff".
Prime the cyls with about 1/4 oz of fuel and start with the throttle
half open.

If you did all that properly the engine WILL start. No ifs, ands, or
buts about it.


This 8n has the front mount distributor. There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out. It has tanks on the bottom of the distributor that engage the cam. It will only go on one way. It also has a square can ignition coil on top of the distributor.

Distributor is similar to this: http://www.my9n.com/timing.htm

90 and 180 degrees out is simple. Just start from the wrong hole - -
-
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Gunner Asch writes:

On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you
never know.


This is an 8N

http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg


Oh, right. Thanks. Shiny! I'm pretty sure I saw ones like in use
decades ago that were...ummm... not shiny. :-)

There's a club here that does restorations like that but their
clubhouse/workshop is 90 miles away. I try go get to their shows but
they're too far away to get to the regular meets. They're into
single-bangers, too, and I have a couple of those but no rig to take
them to the shows.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada
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Default OT, 8N will not start

On 18 Oct 2016 03:29:45 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Gunner Asch writes:

On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you
never know.


This is an 8N

http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg


Oh, right. Thanks. Shiny! I'm pretty sure I saw ones like in use
decades ago that were...ummm... not shiny. :-)

There's a club here that does restorations like that but their
clubhouse/workshop is 90 miles away. I try go get to their shows but
they're too far away to get to the regular meets. They're into
single-bangers, too, and I have a couple of those but no rig to take
them to the shows.



Im looking or a Hit N Miss engine to play with, if anyone runs into
one.

Gunner

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Default OT, 8N will not start

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On 18 Oct 2016 03:29:45 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Gunner Asch writes:

On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you
never know.

This is an 8N

http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg


Oh, right. Thanks. Shiny! I'm pretty sure I saw ones like in use
decades ago that were...ummm... not shiny. :-)

There's a club here that does restorations like that but their
clubhouse/workshop is 90 miles away. I try go get to their shows
but
they're too far away to get to the regular meets. They're into
single-bangers, too, and I have a couple of those but no rig to take
them to the shows.



Im looking or a Hit N Miss engine to play with, if anyone runs into
one.

Gunner


The owner of a local surplus store is trying to get me to make a gear
for an antique cement mixer run from one of his hit & miss engines. I
told him to make a smoothly meshing sheet metal mockup of what he
wants, to use as a template for a form cutter, though I suspect it
will be too large for my Clausing mill to drive unless he'll accept an
aluminum gear.
--jsw




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Default OT, 8N will not start

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 5:12:26 PM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:329f1a87-9d96-4e8d-
:

There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out


Like I said. I owned one. You've got plug wires swapped. I'd be willing
to bet on it.

L


Here is the video of the spark I am getting. It was made quickly last night....

https://youtu.be/uD0WS6WOkFY
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Default OT, 8N will not start

Just a thought, last one I worked on with a similar problem had a cap that didn't fit quite right onto the distributor. Ended up having to add a shim under the retaining strap to keep it running till the owner got a different cap.

Try having someone hold down on the cap to firmly seat it to the distributor while cranking it over.


On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 10:03:36 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:
On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 5:12:26 PM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:329f1a87-9d96-4e8d-
:

There really is no way to get the distributor 180 out


Like I said. I owned one. You've got plug wires swapped. I'd be willing
to bet on it.

L


Here is the video of the spark I am getting. It was made quickly last night....

https://youtu.be/uD0WS6WOkFY

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Default OT, 8N will not start

On 10/17/2016 9:21 AM, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice.

I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either.

As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained:
1= 85psi
2= almost 90 psi
3= almost 90 psi
4= almost 80 psi

I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil:
1= 120 psi
2= 130 psi
3= 105 psi
4= 95 psi

I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat.

I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak.

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.



I don't know diddley about tractors, but look at the image on this page:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...but-not-8.html


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Default OT, 8N will not start

On 10/18/2016 9:33 PM, Steve Walker wrote:
On 10/17/2016 9:21 AM, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the
thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be
able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To
make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the
following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I
broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I
checked the timing twice.

I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a
minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not
restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it
would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to
restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort
yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded
to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like
it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never
takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking,
however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not
start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't
think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and
reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either.

As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle
control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can
not get it started. The following were the results I obtained:
1= 85psi
2= almost 90 psi
3= almost 90 psi
4= almost 80 psi

I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one
at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart
container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following
readings were obtained after the addition of oil:
1= 120 psi
2= 130 psi
3= 105 psi
4= 95 psi

I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb
throat.

I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak.

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.



I don't know diddley about tractors, but look at the image on this page:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...but-not-8.html





I forgot about a similar problem I had back in the early 80's with a
1966 Plymouth. Would almost start. New plugs, wires, cap, points,
condenser, the works. Turned out condenser was bad, even though it was
new. 2 days messing around.


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Default OT, 8N will not start

On Tue, 18 Oct 2016 21:37:09 -0400, Steve Walker
wrote:

On 10/18/2016 9:33 PM, Steve Walker wrote:
On 10/17/2016 9:21 AM, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the
thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be
able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To
make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the
following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I
broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I
checked the timing twice.

I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a
minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not
restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it
would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to
restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort
yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded
to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like
it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never
takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking,
however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not
start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't
think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and
reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either.

As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle
control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can
not get it started. The following were the results I obtained:
1= 85psi
2= almost 90 psi
3= almost 90 psi
4= almost 80 psi

I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one
at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart
container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following
readings were obtained after the addition of oil:
1= 120 psi
2= 130 psi
3= 105 psi
4= 95 psi

I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb
throat.

I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak.

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.



I don't know diddley about tractors, but look at the image on this page:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...but-not-8.html





I forgot about a similar problem I had back in the early 80's with a
1966 Plymouth. Would almost start. New plugs, wires, cap, points,
condenser, the works. Turned out condenser was bad, even though it was
new. 2 days messing around.

IF he is getting a hot blue spark the condenser is OK. If it is
weakand orange it may well be the problem.
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Default OT, 8N will not start

On 10/18/2016 3:20 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 18 Oct 2016 03:29:45 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Gunner Asch writes:

On 17 Oct 2016 15:03:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

I don't know what an "8N" is but whatever it is, sometimes you
never know.

This is an 8N

http://tractorsinfo.com/wp-content/u...actor-Tire.jpg


Oh, right. Thanks. Shiny! I'm pretty sure I saw ones like in use
decades ago that were...ummm... not shiny. :-)

There's a club here that does restorations like that but their
clubhouse/workshop is 90 miles away. I try go get to their shows but
they're too far away to get to the regular meets. They're into
single-bangers, too, and I have a couple of those but no rig to take
them to the shows.



Im looking or a Hit N Miss engine to play with, if anyone runs into
one.


Arnold Schneider of Sioux Falls, South Dakota has several of those and
in good working order.

Gunner

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Default OT, 8N will not start

Google Early Day Gas Engine and Tractor Ass. There are branches all
over the US. At their "Gas Up's"
There are usually some for sale.
CP

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