I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

Thanks!

Gunner

---
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On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner



My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner



My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?


---
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On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 06:12:26 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner



My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?

Why an o-ring rather than a vacuum cleaner belt? Standard o-rings
probably aren't specifically formulated for stretching.
http://tinyurl.com/j9eaxad You didn't mention diameter or length in
your post, IIRC.

NAPA Auto Parts used to make o-rings from viton string, supergluing
the ends together. I have no idea what shore they were, that thought
coming from ~ 40 year old memory.

Ooh, found a good link. Call these guys if the chart doesn't quite
work for you: http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm There
are a few types: buna n (at last I find out what the N stands for:
nitrile), viton, perfluoroelastomer, silicone, teflon, EPDM, etc. Very
old (1960s) carb float needles were buna-n, then everything moved to
viton. http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm

--
GIFT CERTIFICATE:
From the office of Jack Kevorkian, M.D.
To: You
Good for one free visit.
From:Me.

On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner


My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt.
Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?

..http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq

Joe Gwinn

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 9:17:40 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner



My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Do not use an O-ring for a belt. O-rings are made to seal things. They have no fiber increasing the strength.

So what is the diameter of the belt and the length of the belt?

Dan

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
s.com...

On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner


My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt.
Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?

..http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq

Joe Gwinn
================================================== ========================

Good link. We used polyurethane belts on our orbital shakers, got several
years of life running 24/7 100-1000 rpm with a 6 mm belt made from about 5
or 6' of stock on our big machine, and shorter belts down to 1/16" stuff on
little ones. It's definitely the material I would recommend for you -
easiest to fabricate, long lasting, meets your thermal and chemical
resistance needs, etc. You could use the hollow stuff (never used it but
have the vague recollection that it doesn't last as long), buy premade belts
to your length, or buy stock and make them yourself. As usual McMC is good
for onesies and some stock, but of course if you were going into production
it would be worth it to look elsewhere. Based on mfgr recommendations we
used 7-10% stretch - measure the length around the pulleys with a wire to
get the inside length, then subtract 7-10% to get the belt length. That
gives the recommended amount of tension. With polyurethane you can cut the
ends square and melt them together with a little heat gun, maybe using a bit
of angle as an alignment guide channel to hold them on center and in line.
Roll the joint on a fine belt sander if you need to smooth it up. Measure
your length then check the premade ones McMC offers, and decide if you want
to make or buy. Unless they don't have your length I'd buy one or two and
see how long they last.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames

On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 10:32:24 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner


My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt.
Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?

.http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq

Joe Gwinn
Use EDPM o-rings with 8-12% stretch

On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 14:14:29 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 10:32:24 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner


My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt.
Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?

.http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq

Joe Gwinn
Use EDPM o-rings with 8-12% stretch

Sorry that shoud be EPDM


This is the recommendation from apple rubber, by the way..

Here it is - a diect quote from their site:

O-rings provide excellent service in low power drive belt assemblies
because they are inexpensive, easy to install, and the use of
tensioning devices are not required.

When using O-rings as drive belts, certain design considerations
should be observed such as maintaining between 8% to 12% stretch on
the seal inside diameter. Also, the pulley grooves should be round and
match the O-ring's cross section in depth and width while ensuring
that the pulley diameter at the bottom of the groove is no less than 4
times the O-ring cross section.

Best Choice(s)

Ethylene Propylene (peroxide cured) is the primary elastomeric choice
because of the low stress relaxation, good flex life, abrasion
resistance, and high temperature resistance. However, poor resistance
to petroleum-based lubricating oil limits its application range.

On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 10:32:24 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner


My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt.
Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?

.http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq

Joe Gwinn

Thank YOU!! I knew that stuff was out there..simply didnt know how
to find it. MUCH Obliged Joe!

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 11:46:03 -0400, "Carl Ijames"
wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
ws.com...

On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner


My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt.
Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?

.http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq

Joe Gwinn
================================================= =========================

Good link. We used polyurethane belts on our orbital shakers, got several
years of life running 24/7 100-1000 rpm with a 6 mm belt made from about 5
or 6' of stock on our big machine, and shorter belts down to 1/16" stuff on
little ones. It's definitely the material I would recommend for you -
easiest to fabricate, long lasting, meets your thermal and chemical
resistance needs, etc. You could use the hollow stuff (never used it but
have the vague recollection that it doesn't last as long), buy premade belts
to your length, or buy stock and make them yourself. As usual McMC is good
for onesies and some stock, but of course if you were going into production
it would be worth it to look elsewhere. Based on mfgr recommendations we
used 7-10% stretch - measure the length around the pulleys with a wire to
get the inside length, then subtract 7-10% to get the belt length. That
gives the recommended amount of tension. With polyurethane you can cut the
ends square and melt them together with a little heat gun, maybe using a bit
of angle as an alignment guide channel to hold them on center and in line.
Roll the joint on a fine belt sander if you need to smooth it up. Measure
your length then check the premade ones McMC offers, and decide if you want
to make or buy. Unless they don't have your length I'd buy one or two and
see how long they last.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames

Many Many Thanks Carl!!

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material
with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove
in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of
the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the
ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool,
and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out.

O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts.

For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material
with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove
in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of
the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the
ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool,
and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out.

O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts.

For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

Many thanks Don!!

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 06:12:26 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner



My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt.
Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?



http://www.watchtoolsonline.com/Lathe-Belting_c19.htm

On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material
with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove
in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of
the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the
ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool,
and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out.

O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts.

Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.


For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.


Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

Sounds like a plan!


With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one
apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator
or a phone?

--
GIFT CERTIFICATE:
From the office of Jack Kevorkian, M.D.
To: You
Good for one free visit.
From:Me.

On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material
with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove
in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of
the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the
ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool,
and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out.

O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts.

Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.


For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.


Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

Sounds like a plan!


With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one
apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator
or a phone?

You might try a vacuum cleaner repair shop or a sewing machine repair
shop as both these are sources of drive belts/belting.
--
Mr.E

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...

I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

Gunner

Gunner, if you haven't already gotten this from someone else, take a look in
the Parker O-Ring handbook, section 3.17 for drive belt applications.

http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD...g_Handbook.pdf

Tom

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

Thanks!

Gunner

I recently used some generic rubber line for duck decoy anchors and made
belts for a fishing rod drying system out of it by heating and fusing the
ends. I don't use it very often but it seems to be holding up just fine.
If a belt does break I can make another one. Not much torque on them. Just
barely tight enough to straighten out the bow between the pullies. Your
mileage may vary.

If you want tough o-rings Viton tends to be tougher than the common Buna 75
(common hardware store o-rings) or even Buna 90. Really tough you can go
with urethane, but its much less flexible.

You probably have a hydraulics parts store nearby. They should have a wide
array of o-ring options.

On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material
with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove
in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of
the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the
ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool,
and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out.

O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts.

Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.


For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.


Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

Sounds like a plan!


With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one
apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator
or a phone?
Pretty much it. The bowl is on springs and the out of balance weight
rides on the bottom of the bowl holder assembly...so when the belt
turns the out of balance weight..it transfers directly to the bottom
of the bowl holder. The bowl is 18" in diameter and 6" deep, with a
cone formed in the center so as it shakes..the media and contents
travels both around the bowl and as it travels..it also dives down
from the outside and comes up next to the cone. I dumped half a 5
gallon bucket of .38 Spec brass in it and filled it to within 2" of
the top with crushed walnut hulls and a double handful of 3/8
triangular ceramic polishing media and turned it on. Almost dumps
media out of the bowl..its quite powerful. There are (2) pulleys on
the motor..so I used the smaller pulley as the large one was eating up
my o rings rather quickly (bigger diameter..more stretch) and on the
large motor pulley..it would bring the media up and out of the bowl.

No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750. Rubber crutch tips on
the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are
hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I
put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds
it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are
about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug

Gunner

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On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 09:49:27 -0400, Mr.E wrote:

On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material
with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove
in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of
the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the
ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool,
and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out.

O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts.

Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.


For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.


Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

Sounds like a plan!


With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one
apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator
or a phone?

You might try a vacuum cleaner repair shop or a sewing machine repair
shop as both these are sources of drive belts/belting.

They can probably make me up a couple belts..thanks..good idea.

Ive got about 600lbs of brass to clean in all different calibers

Gunner

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On Sat, 3 Sep 2016 10:35:15 +0000 (UTC), unk wrote:

On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 06:12:26 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?


Thanks!

Gunner



My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt.
Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt.

Dan

You are probably correct.
So what type of O ring material do I use?



http://www.watchtoolsonline.com/Lathe-Belting_c19.htm


Thanks!!


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On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700
Gunner Asch wrote:

snip
No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750. Rubber crutch tips on
the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are
hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I
put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds
it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are
about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug

Check Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ch+tip+1-1%2F4

and for your original question:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...g+machine+belt

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Gunner Asch on Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750. Rubber crutch tips on
the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are
hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I
put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds
it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are
about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug

Good Will, Value Village, the Dollar stores.

Gunner
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

On 2016-09-03, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to

[ ... ]

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.)

[ ... ]

O.K. They seem to be called "Fenner drive" belts.

Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.

O.K. I know about those, but have never used one. (My lathe
runs three parallel belts from the layshaft to the spindle, and I put in
matched belts (ordered from Clausing) to minimize vibration. Not sure
how equal you could make three of those link belts. From what I have
read, they are a bit of a pain to install in crowded places like my
headstock.

For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.


Interesting. It still shows up as $97.62 for me.

Are you perhaps logging into the site instead of just opening
a browser on it? If so, you may be seeing discounts. I know that
recently, after looking up a number of things in the website, when I
place an order, I get significantly lower prices on many items. I just
look through the site as someone not logged in, so I guess that I get
the default price for someone who does not have an account there. :-)

Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

Sounds like a plan!

Someone else posted later in the thread that something around
5-7% stretch is normal tension.

With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one
apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator
or a phone?

I think so. Mount the thing on springs, put an eccentric weight
on a shaft, and spin it. Given the belt drive here, it sounds like the
tension needs to take the shifting on the spring mounts into account, so
perhaps set it up so with maximum spring offset towards the motor, there
is still sufficient tension to keep it from slipping.

I've seen some designs posted where the motor itself is mounted
on the bottom of the bowl, so no belt there. But that probably means
greater eccentric weight needed to vibrate the motor too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
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On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material
with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove
in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of
the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the
ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool,
and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out.

O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts.

Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.


For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.


Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

Sounds like a plan!


With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one
apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator
or a phone?
Pretty much it. The bowl is on springs and the out of balance weight
rides on the bottom of the bowl holder assembly...so when the belt
turns the out of balance weight..it transfers directly to the bottom
of the bowl holder. The bowl is 18" in diameter and 6" deep, with a
cone formed in the center so as it shakes..the media and contents
travels both around the bowl and as it travels..it also dives down
from the outside and comes up next to the cone. I dumped half a 5
gallon bucket of .38 Spec brass in it and filled it to within 2" of
the top with crushed walnut hulls and a double handful of 3/8
triangular ceramic polishing media and turned it on. Almost dumps
media out of the bowl..its quite powerful. There are (2) pulleys on
the motor..so I used the smaller pulley as the large one was eating up
my o rings rather quickly (bigger diameter..more stretch) and on the
large motor pulley..it would bring the media up and out of the bowl.

No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750.

Fractional horsepower rating?


Rubber crutch tips on
the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are
hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I

You can get new crutch tips for $3 at Wally World.


put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds
it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are
about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug

Nah! http://tinyurl.com/hvo4koj

--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein

On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 20:11:40 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to
size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt.
I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any
since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about
100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to
stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the
pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to
have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking
for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round
grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt.

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material
with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove
in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of
the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the
ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool,
and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out.

O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts.

Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.


For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.


Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

Sounds like a plan!


With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one
apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator
or a phone?
Pretty much it. The bowl is on springs and the out of balance weight
rides on the bottom of the bowl holder assembly...so when the belt
turns the out of balance weight..it transfers directly to the bottom
of the bowl holder. The bowl is 18" in diameter and 6" deep, with a
cone formed in the center so as it shakes..the media and contents
travels both around the bowl and as it travels..it also dives down
from the outside and comes up next to the cone. I dumped half a 5
gallon bucket of .38 Spec brass in it and filled it to within 2" of
the top with crushed walnut hulls and a double handful of 3/8
triangular ceramic polishing media and turned it on. Almost dumps
media out of the bowl..its quite powerful. There are (2) pulleys on
the motor..so I used the smaller pulley as the large one was eating up
my o rings rather quickly (bigger diameter..more stretch) and on the
large motor pulley..it would bring the media up and out of the bowl.

No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750.

Fractional horsepower rating?

Ive really no idea. Motor is not marked. Its about the size of a half
pint, touch up, paint can. The motor itself is an open frame
type..and it MUST have ball bearings in it...Ive used this thing for
2+ decades cleaning dusty materials...so if it was bushings...they
surely would have been worn out by now. I doubt if its any bigger
than 1/16hp. Ill shoot a couple pics of it later today. I didnt think
there would be this much interest...chuckle.



Rubber crutch tips on
the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are
hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I

You can get new crutch tips for $3 at Wally World.

Thanks again!


put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds
it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are
about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug

Nah! http://tinyurl.com/hvo4koj

Cool! Ive actually got a number of gizmos that need replacement
feet..thanks for the link!

Btw...got the new/rebuilt engine fired up in Moby the Van
yesterday..after 6 months of ****ing around with it.

The van/ engine (351W) only had 12,398 miles on it, and it now has
Zero miles on a rebuilt engine. New rod and main bearings, new rings,
most of the hoses are new (and there are a ****LOAD of them), new
sensors, etc etc.

Its tighter then hell...we had to pump oil through the engine by
spinning the oil pump for 15 minutes, before she would turn over. Now
it starts and runs pretty darned well. Wont restart yet after an hour
run time, until it cools down a bit...rings are not seated completely
yet. This morning Ill be setting timing properly with a timing light,
then Ill figure out why the gas gauge doesnt read on either of the
tanks, and using the OBD1 code reader I borrowed to narrow down any
other issues, etc etc etc.

With a bit of luck and prayer..Ill have the old girl hauling one of my
sailboats out to the lake Monday. Yay!!! Only 8 months since Ive been
sailing..and Im jonesing badly...sigh


Gunner

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On 3 Sep 2016 22:46:41 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-03, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to

[ ... ]

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.)

[ ... ]

O.K. They seem to be called "Fenner drive" belts.

Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.

O.K. I know about those, but have never used one. (My lathe
runs three parallel belts from the layshaft to the spindle, and I put in
matched belts (ordered from Clausing) to minimize vibration. Not sure
how equal you could make three of those link belts. From what I have
read, they are a bit of a pain to install in crowded places like my
headstock.

For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.


Interesting. It still shows up as $97.62 for me.

Are you perhaps logging into the site instead of just opening
a browser on it? If so, you may be seeing discounts. I know that
recently, after looking up a number of things in the website, when I
place an order, I get significantly lower prices on many items. I just
look through the site as someone not logged in, so I guess that I get
the default price for someone who does not have an account there. :-)

Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so
you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension
is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a
very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping.
If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again --
shortening it perhaps 5% or so.

Sounds like a plan!

Someone else posted later in the thread that something around
5-7% stretch is normal tension.

With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one
apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator
or a phone?

I think so. Mount the thing on springs, put an eccentric weight
on a shaft, and spin it. Given the belt drive here, it sounds like the
tension needs to take the shifting on the spring mounts into account, so
perhaps set it up so with maximum spring offset towards the motor, there
is still sufficient tension to keep it from slipping.

I've seen some designs posted where the motor itself is mounted
on the bottom of the bowl, so no belt there. But that probably means
greater eccentric weight needed to vibrate the motor too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Ayup..Ive several of the units with the motor mounted directly to the
bottom of the bowl..and the weights are pretty good sized. Welded
directly to the bottom of the motor shaft. One of them I know has
bronze bearings..that are worn out..and with the weight welded to the
shaft..no way to take the motor apart to replace the bearings. Due to
the design of the unit..not going to be able to cut the counterweight
off the shaft ...because the motor went in..then..then the welded the
weight after the thing was completly assembled..the bassards.


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On Sun, 04 Sep 2016 04:16:41 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 20:11:40 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:
With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching
towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think
that you have to worry about that. :-)

At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one
apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator
or a phone?
Pretty much it. The bowl is on springs and the out of balance weight
rides on the bottom of the bowl holder assembly...so when the belt
turns the out of balance weight..it transfers directly to the bottom
of the bowl holder. The bowl is 18" in diameter and 6" deep, with a
cone formed in the center so as it shakes..the media and contents
travels both around the bowl and as it travels..it also dives down
from the outside and comes up next to the cone. I dumped half a 5
gallon bucket of .38 Spec brass in it and filled it to within 2" of
the top with crushed walnut hulls and a double handful of 3/8
triangular ceramic polishing media and turned it on. Almost dumps
media out of the bowl..its quite powerful. There are (2) pulleys on
the motor..so I used the smaller pulley as the large one was eating up
my o rings rather quickly (bigger diameter..more stretch) and on the
large motor pulley..it would bring the media up and out of the bowl.

No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750.

Fractional horsepower rating?

Ive really no idea. Motor is not marked. Its about the size of a half
pint, touch up, paint can. The motor itself is an open frame
type..and it MUST have ball bearings in it...Ive used this thing for
2+ decades cleaning dusty materials...so if it was bushings...they
surely would have been worn out by now. I doubt if its any bigger
than 1/16hp. Ill shoot a couple pics of it later today. I didnt think
there would be this much interest...chuckle.



Rubber crutch tips on
the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are
hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I

You can get new crutch tips for $3 at Wally World.

Thanks again!


put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds
it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are
about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug

Nah! http://tinyurl.com/hvo4koj

Cool! Ive actually got a number of gizmos that need replacement
feet..thanks for the link!

Btw...got the new/rebuilt engine fired up in Moby the Van
yesterday..after 6 months of ****ing around with it.

That's a giant WHEW, I'm sure. Did you rebuild it yourself, or buy a
rebuilt from a motor factory? I remember the giant hassle it was to
do the AMC 390 in my converted garage, but the ~425hp and 450ft/lb of
torque were worth every hour I had spent building it. The only non
stock part was a Crower cam. That Javelin would git 'n ****, and
sounded rumbly at an unstable idle, just as it should. Other than my
Tundra, it has been my favorite car. Third was the '72 Scout. It was
only 2wd, but I took it flying on the dirt roads and hills. In the
summertime, I'd pop the top. The roll bar worked as a frame for the
bikini top I stitched up for it out of denim. Girls loved it.


The van/ engine (351W) only had 12,398 miles on it, and it now has
Zero miles on a rebuilt engine. New rod and main bearings, new rings,
most of the hoses are new (and there are a ****LOAD of them), new
sensors, etc etc.

Why'd you rebuild it?


Its tighter then hell...we had to pump oil through the engine by

Did you platsigage the mains and rods before running? I had my crank
turned 0.010" and installed the 10 under bearings for it. A machine
shop did my block and heads. IIRC, the entire overhaul cost me about
$500 back in the early '80s. Now they're getting $3500 for crate
engines. It's a good thing that you spun up the oil pump. Did you
mix some STP with oil for a pre-oiling of the bearing surfaces before
assembly, once you were done plastigaging? Mine all showed 1.5
clearance. (0.0015) Handy plastic strips, those.

Curious about current crate prices, you could have bought yours for
$1,640 from Amazon. Or paid $16.5k for a racing engine. thud
http://tinyurl.com/zhlrebv


spinning the oil pump for 15 minutes, before she would turn over. Now
it starts and runs pretty darned well. Wont restart yet after an hour
run time, until it cools down a bit...rings are not seated completely
yet.

Did you get a proper crosshatch? It's very important for seating the
rings.


This morning Ill be setting timing properly with a timing light,
then Ill figure out why the gas gauge doesnt read on either of the
tanks, and using the OBD1 code reader I borrowed to narrow down any
other issues, etc etc etc.

I picked up a bluetooth version of an ELM 327 for $2.20 last month,
before my trip south. I waited, not wanting to accidentally put it in
limp mode before an 850 mile trip. RPM and vacuum showed up
correctly, but I realized that the little smart phone with 3.8" screen
wasn't the best bet for on-the-road gauging. Considering a Plum 8"
Phablet in the future.


With a bit of luck and prayer..Ill have the old girl hauling one of my
sailboats out to the lake Monday. Yay!!! Only 8 months since Ive been
sailing..and Im jonesing badly...sigh

G'luck to ya, sir. Have fun! Hoist a spinnaker for me.
It's 45F here this morning, not exactly yachting weather.

--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein

On 3 Sep 2016 22:46:41 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-03, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to

[ ... ]

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.)

[ ... ]

O.K. They seem to be called "Fenner drive" belts.

Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.

O.K. I know about those, but have never used one. (My lathe

I put some on my bandsaw and it worked well. I have another box
waiting to put on my drill press. I bought the replacement idler
pulley bearing 5 years ago. Time to install it and get the damned
thing running, eh, Gunner? Shelving is first priority in the shop,
though. Deer paths and stacks of everything are not conducive to a
safe working environment. And now I have an extra cubic meter of
handyman tools to store...


runs three parallel belts from the layshaft to the spindle, and I put in
matched belts (ordered from Clausing) to minimize vibration. Not sure
how equal you could make three of those link belts. From what I have
read, they are a bit of a pain to install in crowded places like my
headstock.

Is any belt? Tight confines for working with belts make it a real
beeyotch. I needed 3 hands to put a new serpentine on my Tundra. What
should have been a quick depression of an idler pulley turned into a
1.5 hour nightmare, with jacks, jackstands, removed skid plate, etc.
The open frame of the bandsaw was the complete opposite. I sat down
and had it done in 14 minutes flat, including resizing the belt twice.
The linkbelt is quieter, too, andcauses less vibration after sitting
unused for months on end. It was worth the extra cost.


For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(

Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.


Interesting. It still shows up as $97.62 for me.

Maybe I get the better pricing since I came from the Enco end of
things. It's roughly 30% off.


Are you perhaps logging into the site instead of just opening
a browser on it? If so, you may be seeing discounts. I know that
recently, after looking up a number of things in the website, when I
place an order, I get significantly lower prices on many items. I just
look through the site as someone not logged in, so I guess that I get
the default price for someone who does not have an account there. :-)

Yes, I had to log in to change sites from the old use-enco site.
Register and see if you get the prices, too, if you like.


Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?

The answer is "enough, but not too much", Gunner. "About yea" in the
immortal words of an old mentor. The least amount of tension without
allowing the drive wheel/shaft to spin on the belt will likely give it
the best lifetime. Different rubbers with different finishes require
different tensions in different settings.


I think so. Mount the thing on springs, put an eccentric weight
on a shaft, and spin it. Given the belt drive here, it sounds like the
tension needs to take the shifting on the spring mounts into account, so
perhaps set it up so with maximum spring offset towards the motor, there
is still sufficient tension to keep it from slipping.

Well put, sir.


I've seen some designs posted where the motor itself is mounted
on the bottom of the bowl, so no belt there. But that probably means
greater eccentric weight needed to vibrate the motor too.

And likely shorter motor life, as well. That's gotta be hard on
bearing/bushings.

--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein