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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? Thanks! Gunner --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 06:12:26 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote: On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? Why an o-ring rather than a vacuum cleaner belt? Standard o-rings probably aren't specifically formulated for stretching. http://tinyurl.com/j9eaxad You didn't mention diameter or length in your post, IIRC. NAPA Auto Parts used to make o-rings from viton string, supergluing the ends together. I have no idea what shore they were, that thought coming from ~ 40 year old memory. Ooh, found a good link. Call these guys if the chart doesn't quite work for you: http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm There are a few types: buna n (at last I find out what the N stands for: nitrile), viton, perfluoroelastomer, silicone, teflon, EPDM, etc. Very old (1960s) carb float needles were buna-n, then everything moved to viton. http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm -- GIFT CERTIFICATE: From the office of Jack Kevorkian, M.D. To: You Good for one free visit. From:Me. |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote
(in ): On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? ..http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq Joe Gwinn |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 9:17:40 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Do not use an O-ring for a belt. O-rings are made to seal things. They have no fiber increasing the strength. So what is the diameter of the belt and the length of the belt? Dan |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
s.com... On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote (in ): On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? ..http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq Joe Gwinn ================================================== ======================== Good link. We used polyurethane belts on our orbital shakers, got several years of life running 24/7 100-1000 rpm with a 6 mm belt made from about 5 or 6' of stock on our big machine, and shorter belts down to 1/16" stuff on little ones. It's definitely the material I would recommend for you - easiest to fabricate, long lasting, meets your thermal and chemical resistance needs, etc. You could use the hollow stuff (never used it but have the vague recollection that it doesn't last as long), buy premade belts to your length, or buy stock and make them yourself. As usual McMC is good for onesies and some stock, but of course if you were going into production it would be worth it to look elsewhere. Based on mfgr recommendations we used 7-10% stretch - measure the length around the pulleys with a wire to get the inside length, then subtract 7-10% to get the belt length. That gives the recommended amount of tension. With polyurethane you can cut the ends square and melt them together with a little heat gun, maybe using a bit of angle as an alignment guide channel to hold them on center and in line. Roll the joint on a fine belt sander if you need to smooth it up. Measure your length then check the premade ones McMC offers, and decide if you want to make or buy. Unless they don't have your length I'd buy one or two and see how long they last. ----- Regards, Carl Ijames |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 10:32:24 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote: On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote (in ): On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? .http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq Joe Gwinn Use EDPM o-rings with 8-12% stretch |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
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#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 10:32:24 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
wrote: On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote (in ): On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? .http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq Joe Gwinn Thank YOU!! I knew that stuff was out there..simply didnt know how to find it. MUCH Obliged Joe! Gunner --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 11:46:03 -0400, "Carl Ijames"
wrote: "Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message ws.com... On Sep 2, 2016, Gunner Asch wrote (in ): On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? .http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belts/=13zrucq Joe Gwinn ================================================= ========================= Good link. We used polyurethane belts on our orbital shakers, got several years of life running 24/7 100-1000 rpm with a 6 mm belt made from about 5 or 6' of stock on our big machine, and shorter belts down to 1/16" stuff on little ones. It's definitely the material I would recommend for you - easiest to fabricate, long lasting, meets your thermal and chemical resistance needs, etc. You could use the hollow stuff (never used it but have the vague recollection that it doesn't last as long), buy premade belts to your length, or buy stock and make them yourself. As usual McMC is good for onesies and some stock, but of course if you were going into production it would be worth it to look elsewhere. Based on mfgr recommendations we used 7-10% stretch - measure the length around the pulleys with a wire to get the inside length, then subtract 7-10% to get the belt length. That gives the recommended amount of tension. With polyurethane you can cut the ends square and melt them together with a little heat gun, maybe using a bit of angle as an alignment guide channel to hold them on center and in line. Roll the joint on a fine belt sander if you need to smooth it up. Measure your length then check the premade ones McMC offers, and decide if you want to make or buy. Unless they don't have your length I'd buy one or two and see how long they last. ----- Regards, Carl Ijames Many Many Thanks Carl!! Gunner --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool, and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out. O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool, and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out. O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) Enjoy, DoN. Many thanks Don!! Gunner --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 06:12:26 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? http://www.watchtoolsonline.com/Lathe-Belting_c19.htm |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool, and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out. O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts. Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt which can be used in place of a standard V-belt. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC. Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. Sounds like a plan! With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator or a phone? -- GIFT CERTIFICATE: From the office of Jack Kevorkian, M.D. To: You Good for one free visit. From:Me. |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool, and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out. O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts. Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt which can be used in place of a standard V-belt. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC. Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. Sounds like a plan! With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator or a phone? You might try a vacuum cleaner repair shop or a sewing machine repair shop as both these are sources of drive belts/belting. -- Mr.E |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message ... I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Gunner Gunner, if you haven't already gotten this from someone else, take a look in the Parker O-Ring handbook, section 3.17 for drive belt applications. http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD...g_Handbook.pdf Tom |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
... I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? Thanks! Gunner I recently used some generic rubber line for duck decoy anchors and made belts for a fishing rod drying system out of it by heating and fusing the ends. I don't use it very often but it seems to be holding up just fine. If a belt does break I can make another one. Not much torque on them. Just barely tight enough to straighten out the bow between the pullies. Your mileage may vary. If you want tough o-rings Viton tends to be tougher than the common Buna 75 (common hardware store o-rings) or even Buna 90. Really tough you can go with urethane, but its much less flexible. You probably have a hydraulics parts store nearby. They should have a wide array of o-ring options. |
#19
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool, and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out. O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts. Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt which can be used in place of a standard V-belt. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC. Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. Sounds like a plan! With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator or a phone? Pretty much it. The bowl is on springs and the out of balance weight rides on the bottom of the bowl holder assembly...so when the belt turns the out of balance weight..it transfers directly to the bottom of the bowl holder. The bowl is 18" in diameter and 6" deep, with a cone formed in the center so as it shakes..the media and contents travels both around the bowl and as it travels..it also dives down from the outside and comes up next to the cone. I dumped half a 5 gallon bucket of .38 Spec brass in it and filled it to within 2" of the top with crushed walnut hulls and a double handful of 3/8 triangular ceramic polishing media and turned it on. Almost dumps media out of the bowl..its quite powerful. There are (2) pulleys on the motor..so I used the smaller pulley as the large one was eating up my o rings rather quickly (bigger diameter..more stretch) and on the large motor pulley..it would bring the media up and out of the bowl. No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750. Rubber crutch tips on the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug Gunner --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#20
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 09:49:27 -0400, Mr.E wrote:
On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool, and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out. O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts. Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt which can be used in place of a standard V-belt. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC. Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. Sounds like a plan! With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator or a phone? You might try a vacuum cleaner repair shop or a sewing machine repair shop as both these are sources of drive belts/belting. They can probably make me up a couple belts..thanks..good idea. Ive got about 600lbs of brass to clean in all different calibers Gunner --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#21
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Sat, 3 Sep 2016 10:35:15 +0000 (UTC), unk wrote:
On Fri, 02 Sep 2016 06:12:26 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 04:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 12:44:05 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? Thanks! Gunner My guess is that the original belt was actually made for use as a belt. Something like a sewing machine or vacuum cleaner belt. Dan You are probably correct. So what type of O ring material do I use? http://www.watchtoolsonline.com/Lathe-Belting_c19.htm Thanks!! --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#22
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700
Gunner Asch wrote: snip No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750. Rubber crutch tips on the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug Check Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ch+tip+1-1%2F4 and for your original question: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...g+machine+belt -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#23
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
Gunner Asch on Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750. Rubber crutch tips on the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug Good Will, Value Village, the Dollar stores. Gunner -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone." |
#24
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On 2016-09-03, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to [ ... ] Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) [ ... ] O.K. They seem to be called "Fenner drive" belts. Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt which can be used in place of a standard V-belt. O.K. I know about those, but have never used one. (My lathe runs three parallel belts from the layshaft to the spindle, and I put in matched belts (ordered from Clausing) to minimize vibration. Not sure how equal you could make three of those link belts. From what I have read, they are a bit of a pain to install in crowded places like my headstock. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC. Interesting. It still shows up as $97.62 for me. Are you perhaps logging into the site instead of just opening a browser on it? If so, you may be seeing discounts. I know that recently, after looking up a number of things in the website, when I place an order, I get significantly lower prices on many items. I just look through the site as someone not logged in, so I guess that I get the default price for someone who does not have an account there. :-) Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. Sounds like a plan! Someone else posted later in the thread that something around 5-7% stretch is normal tension. With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator or a phone? I think so. Mount the thing on springs, put an eccentric weight on a shaft, and spin it. Given the belt drive here, it sounds like the tension needs to take the shifting on the spring mounts into account, so perhaps set it up so with maximum spring offset towards the motor, there is still sufficient tension to keep it from slipping. I've seen some designs posted where the motor itself is mounted on the bottom of the bowl, so no belt there. But that probably means greater eccentric weight needed to vibrate the motor too. Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#25
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote: On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool, and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out. O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts. Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt which can be used in place of a standard V-belt. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC. Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. Sounds like a plan! With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator or a phone? Pretty much it. The bowl is on springs and the out of balance weight rides on the bottom of the bowl holder assembly...so when the belt turns the out of balance weight..it transfers directly to the bottom of the bowl holder. The bowl is 18" in diameter and 6" deep, with a cone formed in the center so as it shakes..the media and contents travels both around the bowl and as it travels..it also dives down from the outside and comes up next to the cone. I dumped half a 5 gallon bucket of .38 Spec brass in it and filled it to within 2" of the top with crushed walnut hulls and a double handful of 3/8 triangular ceramic polishing media and turned it on. Almost dumps media out of the bowl..its quite powerful. There are (2) pulleys on the motor..so I used the smaller pulley as the large one was eating up my o rings rather quickly (bigger diameter..more stretch) and on the large motor pulley..it would bring the media up and out of the bowl. No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750. Fractional horsepower rating? Rubber crutch tips on the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I You can get new crutch tips for $3 at Wally World. put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug Nah! http://tinyurl.com/hvo4koj -- Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as I have received and am still receiving. -- Albert Einstein |
#26
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 20:11:40 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 06:13:49 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to size, and used the splice piece to join the ends into a circular belt. I ran out of the belt material a few years ago and havent found any since then. Ive been cleaning up a bunch of cartridge brass...about 100 lbs so far, using some O-rings I had kicking around..but I had to stretch them pretty far to get them to fit between the pulleys...which gave them a very short life span. Since Im going to have to order a bunch of O rings, which material should I be looking for? The pulleys are in good shape and are of proper half round grooves...for about a 3/16" round belt. Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) Cut it to the desired length, get a piece of material with a thickness about the diameter of the material, machine a V-groove in the edge and clamp in a vise to hold it steady. Hold both ends of the belt in a flame from a propane torch or the like, then squeeze the ends together, using the V-groove to keep them alligined, let them cool, and use a razor blade to trim off the flash which will ooze out. O.K. They seem to be callled "Fenner drive" belts. Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt which can be used in place of a standard V-belt. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC. Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. Sounds like a plan! With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator or a phone? Pretty much it. The bowl is on springs and the out of balance weight rides on the bottom of the bowl holder assembly...so when the belt turns the out of balance weight..it transfers directly to the bottom of the bowl holder. The bowl is 18" in diameter and 6" deep, with a cone formed in the center so as it shakes..the media and contents travels both around the bowl and as it travels..it also dives down from the outside and comes up next to the cone. I dumped half a 5 gallon bucket of .38 Spec brass in it and filled it to within 2" of the top with crushed walnut hulls and a double handful of 3/8 triangular ceramic polishing media and turned it on. Almost dumps media out of the bowl..its quite powerful. There are (2) pulleys on the motor..so I used the smaller pulley as the large one was eating up my o rings rather quickly (bigger diameter..more stretch) and on the large motor pulley..it would bring the media up and out of the bowl. No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750. Fractional horsepower rating? Ive really no idea. Motor is not marked. Its about the size of a half pint, touch up, paint can. The motor itself is an open frame type..and it MUST have ball bearings in it...Ive used this thing for 2+ decades cleaning dusty materials...so if it was bushings...they surely would have been worn out by now. I doubt if its any bigger than 1/16hp. Ill shoot a couple pics of it later today. I didnt think there would be this much interest...chuckle. Rubber crutch tips on the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I You can get new crutch tips for $3 at Wally World. Thanks again! put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug Nah! http://tinyurl.com/hvo4koj Cool! Ive actually got a number of gizmos that need replacement feet..thanks for the link! Btw...got the new/rebuilt engine fired up in Moby the Van yesterday..after 6 months of ****ing around with it. The van/ engine (351W) only had 12,398 miles on it, and it now has Zero miles on a rebuilt engine. New rod and main bearings, new rings, most of the hoses are new (and there are a ****LOAD of them), new sensors, etc etc. Its tighter then hell...we had to pump oil through the engine by spinning the oil pump for 15 minutes, before she would turn over. Now it starts and runs pretty darned well. Wont restart yet after an hour run time, until it cools down a bit...rings are not seated completely yet. This morning Ill be setting timing properly with a timing light, then Ill figure out why the gas gauge doesnt read on either of the tanks, and using the OBD1 code reader I borrowed to narrow down any other issues, etc etc etc. With a bit of luck and prayer..Ill have the old girl hauling one of my sailboats out to the lake Monday. Yay!!! Only 8 months since Ive been sailing..and Im jonesing badly...sigh Gunner --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#27
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On 3 Sep 2016 22:46:41 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: On 2016-09-03, Larry Jaques wrote: On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to [ ... ] Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) [ ... ] O.K. They seem to be called "Fenner drive" belts. Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt which can be used in place of a standard V-belt. O.K. I know about those, but have never used one. (My lathe runs three parallel belts from the layshaft to the spindle, and I put in matched belts (ordered from Clausing) to minimize vibration. Not sure how equal you could make three of those link belts. From what I have read, they are a bit of a pain to install in crowded places like my headstock. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC. Interesting. It still shows up as $97.62 for me. Are you perhaps logging into the site instead of just opening a browser on it? If so, you may be seeing discounts. I know that recently, after looking up a number of things in the website, when I place an order, I get significantly lower prices on many items. I just look through the site as someone not logged in, so I guess that I get the default price for someone who does not have an account there. :-) Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? With the above materials, you can make them to your needs, so you don't have to worry about too much stretch. Obviously, the tension is a function of the load and the speed. Start out by making it just a very slight stretch and see if it will handle the load without slipping. If not, trim out the part where you spliced it and try again -- shortening it perhaps 5% or so. Sounds like a plan! Someone else posted later in the thread that something around 5-7% stretch is normal tension. With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator or a phone? I think so. Mount the thing on springs, put an eccentric weight on a shaft, and spin it. Given the belt drive here, it sounds like the tension needs to take the shifting on the spring mounts into account, so perhaps set it up so with maximum spring offset towards the motor, there is still sufficient tension to keep it from slipping. I've seen some designs posted where the motor itself is mounted on the bottom of the bowl, so no belt there. But that probably means greater eccentric weight needed to vibrate the motor too. Enjoy, DoN. Ayup..Ive several of the units with the motor mounted directly to the bottom of the bowl..and the weights are pretty good sized. Welded directly to the bottom of the motor shaft. One of them I know has bronze bearings..that are worn out..and with the weight welded to the shaft..no way to take the motor apart to replace the bearings. Due to the design of the unit..not going to be able to cut the counterweight off the shaft ...because the motor went in..then..then the welded the weight after the thing was completly assembled..the bassards. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#28
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On Sun, 04 Sep 2016 04:16:41 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote: On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 20:11:40 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 03 Sep 2016 12:16:44 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: With too much speed, they will add their own tension, stretching towards a full circle. But for cartridge tumbling speeds, I don't think that you have to worry about that. :-) At what speed does dem li'l vibrators run, anyway? I've never had one apart. Do they use a wildly imbalanced shaft, like a lady's vibrator or a phone? Pretty much it. The bowl is on springs and the out of balance weight rides on the bottom of the bowl holder assembly...so when the belt turns the out of balance weight..it transfers directly to the bottom of the bowl holder. The bowl is 18" in diameter and 6" deep, with a cone formed in the center so as it shakes..the media and contents travels both around the bowl and as it travels..it also dives down from the outside and comes up next to the cone. I dumped half a 5 gallon bucket of .38 Spec brass in it and filled it to within 2" of the top with crushed walnut hulls and a double handful of 3/8 triangular ceramic polishing media and turned it on. Almost dumps media out of the bowl..its quite powerful. There are (2) pulleys on the motor..so I used the smaller pulley as the large one was eating up my o rings rather quickly (bigger diameter..more stretch) and on the large motor pulley..it would bring the media up and out of the bowl. No idea what rpm it runs at..probably 1750. Fractional horsepower rating? Ive really no idea. Motor is not marked. Its about the size of a half pint, touch up, paint can. The motor itself is an open frame type..and it MUST have ball bearings in it...Ive used this thing for 2+ decades cleaning dusty materials...so if it was bushings...they surely would have been worn out by now. I doubt if its any bigger than 1/16hp. Ill shoot a couple pics of it later today. I didnt think there would be this much interest...chuckle. Rubber crutch tips on the 4 legs are supposed to hold it in place..but the crutch tips are hard as a rock with age and it skips across the table top easily..so I You can get new crutch tips for $3 at Wally World. Thanks again! put it on a couple bags of lead shot and let the legs settle in..holds it well enough. But Ill replace the crutch tips..but the legs are about 1 1/4" in diameter..so finding those will be a trip...shrug Nah! http://tinyurl.com/hvo4koj Cool! Ive actually got a number of gizmos that need replacement feet..thanks for the link! Btw...got the new/rebuilt engine fired up in Moby the Van yesterday..after 6 months of ****ing around with it. That's a giant WHEW, I'm sure. Did you rebuild it yourself, or buy a rebuilt from a motor factory? I remember the giant hassle it was to do the AMC 390 in my converted garage, but the ~425hp and 450ft/lb of torque were worth every hour I had spent building it. The only non stock part was a Crower cam. That Javelin would git 'n ****, and sounded rumbly at an unstable idle, just as it should. Other than my Tundra, it has been my favorite car. Third was the '72 Scout. It was only 2wd, but I took it flying on the dirt roads and hills. In the summertime, I'd pop the top. The roll bar worked as a frame for the bikini top I stitched up for it out of denim. Girls loved it. The van/ engine (351W) only had 12,398 miles on it, and it now has Zero miles on a rebuilt engine. New rod and main bearings, new rings, most of the hoses are new (and there are a ****LOAD of them), new sensors, etc etc. Why'd you rebuild it? Its tighter then hell...we had to pump oil through the engine by Did you platsigage the mains and rods before running? I had my crank turned 0.010" and installed the 10 under bearings for it. A machine shop did my block and heads. IIRC, the entire overhaul cost me about $500 back in the early '80s. Now they're getting $3500 for crate engines. It's a good thing that you spun up the oil pump. Did you mix some STP with oil for a pre-oiling of the bearing surfaces before assembly, once you were done plastigaging? Mine all showed 1.5 clearance. (0.0015) Handy plastic strips, those. Curious about current crate prices, you could have bought yours for $1,640 from Amazon. Or paid $16.5k for a racing engine. thud http://tinyurl.com/zhlrebv spinning the oil pump for 15 minutes, before she would turn over. Now it starts and runs pretty darned well. Wont restart yet after an hour run time, until it cools down a bit...rings are not seated completely yet. Did you get a proper crosshatch? It's very important for seating the rings. This morning Ill be setting timing properly with a timing light, then Ill figure out why the gas gauge doesnt read on either of the tanks, and using the OBD1 code reader I borrowed to narrow down any other issues, etc etc etc. I picked up a bluetooth version of an ELM 327 for $2.20 last month, before my trip south. I waited, not wanting to accidentally put it in limp mode before an 850 mile trip. RPM and vacuum showed up correctly, but I realized that the little smart phone with 3.8" screen wasn't the best bet for on-the-road gauging. Considering a Plum 8" Phablet in the future. With a bit of luck and prayer..Ill have the old girl hauling one of my sailboats out to the lake Monday. Yay!!! Only 8 months since Ive been sailing..and Im jonesing badly...sigh G'luck to ya, sir. Have fun! Hoist a spinnaker for me. It's 45F here this morning, not exactly yachting weather. -- Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as I have received and am still receiving. -- Albert Einstein |
#29
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best O ring Material for drive belt?
On 3 Sep 2016 22:46:41 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: On 2016-09-03, Larry Jaques wrote: On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" wrote: On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote: I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest? I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a "universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to [ ... ] Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green), which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a Jeweler's lathe.) [ ... ] O.K. They seem to be called "Fenner drive" belts. Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt which can be used in place of a standard V-belt. O.K. I know about those, but have never used one. (My lathe I put some on my bandsaw and it worked well. I have another box waiting to put on my drill press. I bought the replacement idler pulley bearing 5 years ago. Time to install it and get the damned thing running, eh, Gunner? Shelving is first priority in the shop, though. Deer paths and stacks of everything are not conducive to a safe working environment. And now I have an extra cubic meter of handyman tools to store... runs three parallel belts from the layshaft to the spindle, and I put in matched belts (ordered from Clausing) to minimize vibration. Not sure how equal you could make three of those link belts. From what I have read, they are a bit of a pain to install in crowded places like my headstock. Is any belt? Tight confines for working with belts make it a real beeyotch. I needed 3 hands to put a new serpentine on my Tundra. What should have been a quick depression of an idler pulley turned into a 1.5 hour nightmare, with jacks, jackstands, removed skid plate, etc. The open frame of the bandsaw was the complete opposite. I sat down and had it done in 14 minutes flat, including resizing the belt twice. The linkbelt is quieter, too, andcauses less vibration after sitting unused for months on end. It was worth the extra cost. For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579". They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up since I got mine. :-( Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC. Interesting. It still shows up as $97.62 for me. Maybe I get the better pricing since I came from the Enco end of things. It's roughly 30% off. Are you perhaps logging into the site instead of just opening a browser on it? If so, you may be seeing discounts. I know that recently, after looking up a number of things in the website, when I place an order, I get significantly lower prices on many items. I just look through the site as someone not logged in, so I guess that I get the default price for someone who does not have an account there. :-) Yes, I had to log in to change sites from the old use-enco site. Register and see if you get the prices, too, if you like. Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate? The answer is "enough, but not too much", Gunner. "About yea" in the immortal words of an old mentor. The least amount of tension without allowing the drive wheel/shaft to spin on the belt will likely give it the best lifetime. Different rubbers with different finishes require different tensions in different settings. I think so. Mount the thing on springs, put an eccentric weight on a shaft, and spin it. Given the belt drive here, it sounds like the tension needs to take the shifting on the spring mounts into account, so perhaps set it up so with maximum spring offset towards the motor, there is still sufficient tension to keep it from slipping. Well put, sir. I've seen some designs posted where the motor itself is mounted on the bottom of the bowl, so no belt there. But that probably means greater eccentric weight needed to vibrate the motor too. And likely shorter motor life, as well. That's gotta be hard on bearing/bushings. -- Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as I have received and am still receiving. -- Albert Einstein |
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