Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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May be detrimantal to ongoing political discussions ...

Today , since it's raining it's ass off and I can't work on the house
construction , I think I'll build a wheel balancing shaft and cones for the
motorcycles . I have a nice straight piece of half inch SS round stock and a
pair of ball bearings , both bought for this purpose some time ago . The
plan is to machine a pair of conical aluminum pieces that are a tight slip
fit on the rod , with set screws to retain them in tight contact with the
wheel bearings . Cones will be machined round behind the taper so they'll
slip into the seals , which will also help keep the wheel from rotating on
the rod . For support stands , I will be using a pair of jack stands set up
on a level surface .
A lot of people see no need to balance motorcycle wheels , but I have
found that my bike just seems to ride smoother if I do . Last tire change I
tried using the balance beads , and they seem to work , but are difficult to
"install" and costly . While I'm not sure they're to blame , I got less than
3500 miles on that rear tire . Tire is a Conti Milestone , touted as a "high
mileage tire for heavy touring motorcycles" . I have contacted Continental
tire and they want to see the tire ... new rubber is a Dunlop Elite III ,
which I've had good mileage from in the past .
--
Snag


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On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 08:08:22 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

May be detrimantal to ongoing political discussions ...

Today , since it's raining it's ass off and I can't work on the house
construction , I think I'll build a wheel balancing shaft and cones for the
motorcycles . I have a nice straight piece of half inch SS round stock and a
pair of ball bearings , both bought for this purpose some time ago . The
plan is to machine a pair of conical aluminum pieces that are a tight slip
fit on the rod , with set screws to retain them in tight contact with the
wheel bearings . Cones will be machined round behind the taper so they'll
slip into the seals , which will also help keep the wheel from rotating on
the rod . For support stands , I will be using a pair of jack stands set up
on a level surface .
A lot of people see no need to balance motorcycle wheels , but I have
found that my bike just seems to ride smoother if I do . Last tire change I
tried using the balance beads , and they seem to work , but are difficult to
"install" and costly . While I'm not sure they're to blame , I got less than
3500 miles on that rear tire . Tire is a Conti Milestone , touted as a "high
mileage tire for heavy touring motorcycles" . I have contacted Continental
tire and they want to see the tire ... new rubber is a Dunlop Elite III ,
which I've had good mileage from in the past .


I made one recently in about a half hour. 4 small bearings supporting
axle, mounted to some short stubs of angle on the tips of 2 X 4 legs.
Works beautifully. I'll use the time saved to cackle about Trump
gaffes while working on larger projects.
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On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 08:08:22 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

May be detrimantal to ongoing political discussions ...


Damned tootin, it is. grumble,grumble


Today , since it's raining it's ass off and I can't work on the house
construction , I think I'll build a wheel balancing shaft and cones for the
motorcycles . I have a nice straight piece of half inch SS round stock and a
pair of ball bearings , both bought for this purpose some time ago . The
plan is to machine a pair of conical aluminum pieces that are a tight slip
fit on the rod , with set screws to retain them in tight contact with the
wheel bearings . Cones will be machined round behind the taper so they'll
slip into the seals , which will also help keep the wheel from rotating on
the rod . For support stands , I will be using a pair of jack stands set up
on a level surface .


Cool! Use sewing machine oil or silicone/dry lube (instead of grease)
on the bearings for less stiction.


A lot of people see no need to balance motorcycle wheels , but I have
found that my bike just seems to ride smoother if I do.


Absolutely, and especially so at highway+ speeds.


Last tire change I
tried using the balance beads , and they seem to work , but are difficult to
"install" and costly . While I'm not sure they're to blame , I got less than
3500 miles on that rear tire . Tire is a Conti Milestone , touted as a "high
mileage tire for heavy touring motorcycles" . I have contacted Continental
tire and they want to see the tire ... new rubber is a Dunlop Elite III ,
which I've had good mileage from in the past .


I hope Conti doesn't void the warranty because of them.
They look like they'd always imbalance the wheel after the tire hits
any rut whatsoever. shrug Stickons and spoke wraps both work
pretty permanently. Well, until the tire decides to go OOR or find a
flat spot after a skid. My recent experience is with friends with
bikes. I haven't owned one since 1969.

What's with the idiots on YouTube who burn all the tread off their
superbike's rear tire while straddling it, holding the front brake on?
Damn, that'd get expensive in a hurry.

--
I believe there are more instances of the abridgment of the
freedom of the people by gradual and silent encroachment of
those in power than by violent and sudden usurpations.
--James Madison
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On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 17:30:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 08:08:22 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

May be detrimantal to ongoing political discussions ...


Damned tootin, it is. grumble,grumble


Today , since it's raining it's ass off and I can't work on the house
construction , I think I'll build a wheel balancing shaft and cones for the
motorcycles . I have a nice straight piece of half inch SS round stock and a
pair of ball bearings , both bought for this purpose some time ago . The
plan is to machine a pair of conical aluminum pieces that are a tight slip
fit on the rod , with set screws to retain them in tight contact with the
wheel bearings . Cones will be machined round behind the taper so they'll
slip into the seals , which will also help keep the wheel from rotating on
the rod . For support stands , I will be using a pair of jack stands set up
on a level surface .


Cool! Use sewing machine oil or silicone/dry lube (instead of grease)
on the bearings for less stiction.


A lot of people see no need to balance motorcycle wheels , but I have
found that my bike just seems to ride smoother if I do.


Absolutely, and especially so at highway+ speeds.


Last tire change I
tried using the balance beads , and they seem to work , but are difficult to
"install" and costly . While I'm not sure they're to blame , I got less than
3500 miles on that rear tire . Tire is a Conti Milestone , touted as a "high
mileage tire for heavy touring motorcycles" . I have contacted Continental
tire and they want to see the tire ... new rubber is a Dunlop Elite III ,
which I've had good mileage from in the past .


I hope Conti doesn't void the warranty because of them.
They look like they'd always imbalance the wheel after the tire hits
any rut whatsoever. shrug Stickons and spoke wraps both work
pretty permanently. Well, until the tire decides to go OOR or find a
flat spot after a skid. My recent experience is with friends with
bikes. I haven't owned one since 1969.

What's with the idiots on YouTube who burn all the tread off their
superbike's rear tire while straddling it, holding the front brake on?
Damn, that'd get expensive in a hurry.


Yall may find this of interest...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/tire-miles.php


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 17:30:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 08:08:22 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

May be detrimantal to ongoing political discussions ...


Damned tootin, it is. grumble,grumble


Today , since it's raining it's ass off and I can't work on the
house construction , I think I'll build a wheel balancing shaft and
cones for the motorcycles . I have a nice straight piece of half
inch SS round stock and a pair of ball bearings , both bought for
this purpose some time ago . The plan is to machine a pair of
conical aluminum pieces that are a tight slip fit on the rod , with
set screws to retain them in tight contact with the wheel bearings
. Cones will be machined round behind the taper so they'll slip
into the seals , which will also help keep the wheel from rotating
on the rod . For support stands , I will be using a pair of jack
stands set up on a level surface .


Cool! Use sewing machine oil or silicone/dry lube (instead of
grease) on the bearings for less stiction.


A lot of people see no need to balance motorcycle wheels , but I
have found that my bike just seems to ride smoother if I do.


Absolutely, and especially so at highway+ speeds.


Last tire change I
tried using the balance beads , and they seem to work , but are
difficult to "install" and costly . While I'm not sure they're to
blame , I got less than 3500 miles on that rear tire . Tire is a
Conti Milestone , touted as a "high mileage tire for heavy touring
motorcycles" . I have contacted Continental tire and they want to
see the tire ... new rubber is a Dunlop Elite III , which I've had
good mileage from in the past .


I hope Conti doesn't void the warranty because of them.
They look like they'd always imbalance the wheel after the tire hits
any rut whatsoever. shrug Stickons and spoke wraps both work
pretty permanently. Well, until the tire decides to go OOR or find a
flat spot after a skid. My recent experience is with friends with
bikes. I haven't owned one since 1969.

What's with the idiots on YouTube who burn all the tread off their
superbike's rear tire while straddling it, holding the front brake
on? Damn, that'd get expensive in a hurry.


Yall may find this of interest...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/tire-miles.php


None of the tires listed are designed for a heavy touring bike like mine .
I was accustomed to getting 10,000 miles or more from a rear tire and about
double that from a front . The only thing that has changed on my end is
where I live ... I could deal with getting 8k from a rear tire , but less
than 3500 is just totally unacceptable . The only thing I can think is that
the rubber compounds have been changed . Reviewing my logs , it looks like
each tire (based on several sets of Elite III's) has gotten fewer miles ...
the first set of EIII's I bought when they were first introduced got 15k+
rear and nearly 32k front . It's all been downhill from there .
--
Snag




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"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in news:np0i9p$c1v$1
@dont-email.me:

It's all been downhill from there .
--


Just think what the wear would have been if you'd been going UPhill!

Lloyd
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On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 18:52:56 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 17:30:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 08:08:22 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

May be detrimantal to ongoing political discussions ...


Damned tootin, it is. grumble,grumble


Today , since it's raining it's ass off and I can't work on the house
construction , I think I'll build a wheel balancing shaft and cones for the
motorcycles . I have a nice straight piece of half inch SS round stock and a
pair of ball bearings , both bought for this purpose some time ago . The
plan is to machine a pair of conical aluminum pieces that are a tight slip
fit on the rod , with set screws to retain them in tight contact with the
wheel bearings . Cones will be machined round behind the taper so they'll
slip into the seals , which will also help keep the wheel from rotating on
the rod . For support stands , I will be using a pair of jack stands set up
on a level surface .


Cool! Use sewing machine oil or silicone/dry lube (instead of grease)
on the bearings for less stiction.


A lot of people see no need to balance motorcycle wheels , but I have
found that my bike just seems to ride smoother if I do.


Absolutely, and especially so at highway+ speeds.


Last tire change I
tried using the balance beads , and they seem to work , but are difficult to
"install" and costly . While I'm not sure they're to blame , I got less than
3500 miles on that rear tire . Tire is a Conti Milestone , touted as a "high
mileage tire for heavy touring motorcycles" . I have contacted Continental
tire and they want to see the tire ... new rubber is a Dunlop Elite III ,
which I've had good mileage from in the past .


I hope Conti doesn't void the warranty because of them.
They look like they'd always imbalance the wheel after the tire hits
any rut whatsoever. shrug Stickons and spoke wraps both work
pretty permanently. Well, until the tire decides to go OOR or find a
flat spot after a skid. My recent experience is with friends with
bikes. I haven't owned one since 1969.

What's with the idiots on YouTube who burn all the tread off their
superbike's rear tire while straddling it, holding the front brake on?
Damn, that'd get expensive in a hurry.


Yall may find this of interest...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/tire-miles.php


This data confirms, on bikes, my own experiences with these brands of
car/truck tires. I got 60k on the OEM rears of my '90 F-150. The
lousy, loose OEM Michelins which came on my Tundra lasted just 22k and
wouldn't haul me up a 10% slope on wet grass!

I've put more miles on Bridgestones than on any other tire brand, by a
wide margin. Love 'em. My newest Tundra feet, Dueler A/T Revo II
tires, stick to wet asphalt like glue. Worth the exhorbitant price of
$970/4 installed, despite the near heart attack the price caused.

--
The great thing about getting older is that
you don't lose all the other ages you've been.
-- Madeleine L'Engle
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Terry Coombs wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 17:30:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 08:08:22 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

May be detrimantal to ongoing political discussions ...
Damned tootin, it is. grumble,grumble


Today , since it's raining it's ass off and I can't work on the
house construction , I think I'll build a wheel balancing shaft and
cones for the motorcycles . I have a nice straight piece of half
inch SS round stock and a pair of ball bearings , both bought for
this purpose some time ago . The plan is to machine a pair of
conical aluminum pieces that are a tight slip fit on the rod , with
set screws to retain them in tight contact with the wheel bearings
. Cones will be machined round behind the taper so they'll slip
into the seals , which will also help keep the wheel from rotating
on the rod . For support stands , I will be using a pair of jack
stands set up on a level surface .
Cool! Use sewing machine oil or silicone/dry lube (instead of
grease) on the bearings for less stiction.


A lot of people see no need to balance motorcycle wheels , but I
have found that my bike just seems to ride smoother if I do.
Absolutely, and especially so at highway+ speeds.


Last tire change I
tried using the balance beads , and they seem to work , but are
difficult to "install" and costly . While I'm not sure they're to
blame , I got less than 3500 miles on that rear tire . Tire is a
Conti Milestone , touted as a "high mileage tire for heavy touring
motorcycles" . I have contacted Continental tire and they want to
see the tire ... new rubber is a Dunlop Elite III , which I've had
good mileage from in the past .
I hope Conti doesn't void the warranty because of them.
They look like they'd always imbalance the wheel after the tire hits
any rut whatsoever. shrug Stickons and spoke wraps both work
pretty permanently. Well, until the tire decides to go OOR or find a
flat spot after a skid. My recent experience is with friends with
bikes. I haven't owned one since 1969.

What's with the idiots on YouTube who burn all the tread off their
superbike's rear tire while straddling it, holding the front brake
on? Damn, that'd get expensive in a hurry.

Yall may find this of interest...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/tire-miles.php


None of the tires listed are designed for a heavy touring bike like mine .
I was accustomed to getting 10,000 miles or more from a rear tire and about
double that from a front . The only thing that has changed on my end is
where I live ... I could deal with getting 8k from a rear tire , but less
than 3500 is just totally unacceptable . The only thing I can think is that
the rubber compounds have been changed . Reviewing my logs , it looks like
each tire (based on several sets of Elite III's) has gotten fewer miles ...
the first set of EIII's I bought when they were first introduced got 15k+
rear and nearly 32k front . It's all been downhill from there .



I switched to the "dark side" (car tire instead of bike tire)long ago.
Fully loaded 1800 'wing with my fat ass on it and I get closer to 50K on
the rear tire, for less than half the price of the bike tire it calls
for. No flats, no abnormal wear and MUCH improved ride and braking. A
lot of the big bikes can be fitted the same way.



--
Steve W.
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Gunner Asch on Tue, 16 Aug 2016 18:52:56 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

What's with the idiots on YouTube who burn all the tread off their
superbike's rear tire while straddling it, holding the front brake on?
Damn, that'd get expensive in a hurry.


My response to any time someone "burns out" is "Must be nice
having someone else buy tires.""

Yall may find this of interest...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/tire-miles.php

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 21:31:11 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
Yall may find this of interest...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/tire-miles.php


None of the tires listed are designed for a heavy touring bike like mine .


Does "Canyon Chasers" sound like a mild touring group to you? vbg
Most of the Bridgestones were touring tires, though, and got good
mileage with the racers. I remember seeing the guys on bikes damnear
horizontal on the curves of CA-74 between San Juan Capistrano and Lake
Elsinore in CA. There were many wrecks every month, usually with at
least one death. You'd see them pass you on the inside corner in the
other lane with their knee scraping. Luckily, I never saw a wreck.
They're gruesome. Speaking of which, look at this guy's luck:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLQN4_gkYDo


I was accustomed to getting 10,000 miles or more from a rear tire and about
double that from a front . The only thing that has changed on my end is
where I live ... I could deal with getting 8k from a rear tire , but less
than 3500 is just totally unacceptable . The only thing I can think is that
the rubber compounds have been changed .


Yeah, that's crap. I noticed an extreme change after moving from CA
to OR. The roads up here are much coarser and handle water better.
Tire mileage is a bit less, but I put just 6k on annually, so I
haven't really paid that much attention to it. I do like my corners,
though, so I burn through a bit more rubber than many folks would.
It's hard to break these loose in the Tundra, though.

How's the difference in roads where you used to live and where you
live now? Up here, when trucks go down the road, the whitewater is
minimal. In CA, you had to follow one from 1/4 mile back just to be
able to see the road in front of you. Needless to say, I prefer these
roads to CA's.


Reviewing my logs , it looks like
each tire (based on several sets of Elite III's) has gotten fewer miles ...
the first set of EIII's I bought when they were first introduced got 15k+
rear and nearly 32k front . It's all been downhill from there .


Man, that's a tall mountain. Oh, you meant...

--
The great thing about getting older is that
you don't lose all the other ages you've been.
-- Madeleine L'Engle


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Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 21:31:11 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
Yall may find this of interest...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/tire-miles.php


None of the tires listed are designed for a heavy touring bike like
mine .


Does "Canyon Chasers" sound like a mild touring group to you? vbg
Most of the Bridgestones were touring tires, though, and got good
mileage with the racers. I remember seeing the guys on bikes damnear
horizontal on the curves of CA-74 between San Juan Capistrano and Lake
Elsinore in CA. There were many wrecks every month, usually with at
least one death. You'd see them pass you on the inside corner in the
other lane with their knee scraping. Luckily, I never saw a wreck.
They're gruesome. Speaking of which, look at this guy's luck:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLQN4_gkYDo


Let's just say that you need to be careful if you run your hand along the
bottom edge of my footboards ... My 1990 Harley Ultra Classic has some mods
to the stock rear suspension , including chromoly steel/aluminum bronze
swingarm pivot bushings of my own design in place of the
steel/rubber/plastic/silicone composite OEM units .


I was accustomed to getting 10,000 miles or more from a rear tire
and about double that from a front . The only thing that has changed
on my end is where I live ... I could deal with getting 8k from a
rear tire , but less than 3500 is just totally unacceptable . The
only thing I can think is that the rubber compounds have been
changed .


Yeah, that's crap. I noticed an extreme change after moving from CA
to OR. The roads up here are much coarser and handle water better.
Tire mileage is a bit less, but I put just 6k on annually, so I
haven't really paid that much attention to it. I do like my corners,
though, so I burn through a bit more rubber than many folks would.
It's hard to break these loose in the Tundra, though.

How's the difference in roads where you used to live and where you
live now? Up here, when trucks go down the road, the whitewater is
minimal. In CA, you had to follow one from 1/4 mile back just to be
able to see the road in front of you. Needless to say, I prefer these
roads to CA's.


The roads up here are a little coarser than down in the Memphis area .
Here they use chip/seal surfacing on the roads using crushed rock rather
than the plain asphalt surfacing . I could see a reduction of up to 20-25%
in tread life , but not a reduction to less than a third . Car and truck
tires don't seem to have the same shortened life ...

Reviewing my logs , it looks like
each tire (based on several sets of Elite III's) has gotten fewer
miles ... the first set of EIII's I bought when they were first
introduced got 15k+ rear and nearly 32k front . It's all been
downhill from there .


Man, that's a tall mountain. Oh, you meant...


--
Snag


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On Wed, 17 Aug 2016 14:40:18 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 21:31:11 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
Yall may find this of interest...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/reviews/tire-miles.php

None of the tires listed are designed for a heavy touring bike like
mine .


Does "Canyon Chasers" sound like a mild touring group to you? vbg
Most of the Bridgestones were touring tires, though, and got good
mileage with the racers. I remember seeing the guys on bikes damnear
horizontal on the curves of CA-74 between San Juan Capistrano and Lake
Elsinore in CA. There were many wrecks every month, usually with at
least one death. You'd see them pass you on the inside corner in the
other lane with their knee scraping. Luckily, I never saw a wreck.
They're gruesome. Speaking of which, look at this guy's luck:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLQN4_gkYDo


Let's just say that you need to be careful if you run your hand along the
bottom edge of my footboards ...


I miss the meaning here, unless you sharpened them in turns.


My 1990 Harley Ultra Classic has some mods
to the stock rear suspension , including chromoly steel/aluminum bronze
swingarm pivot bushings of my own design in place of the
steel/rubber/plastic/silicone composite OEM units .


I'd miss the slightly softer ride with the rubbery hinge there,
myself. You Harley riders are tough, and have to be, between the
unmuffled exhaust noise, engine vibration, hard tails, etc. You have
to man-up to ride one for long. I'm just a wuss, preferring an enduro
style of bike, so I could ride it anywhere.


The roads up here are a little coarser than down in the Memphis area .
Here they use chip/seal surfacing on the roads using crushed rock rather
than the plain asphalt surfacing . I could see a reduction of up to 20-25%
in tread life , but not a reduction to less than a third . Car and truck
tires don't seem to have the same shortened life ...


True, luckily for us. But you only have to buy 2 at a time, max.

--
The great thing about getting older is that
you don't lose all the other ages you've been.
-- Madeleine L'Engle
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Steve W. wrote:


I switched to the "dark side" (car tire instead of bike tire)long ago.
Fully loaded 1800 'wing with my fat ass on it and I get closer to 50K
on the rear tire, for less than half the price of the bike tire it
calls for. No flats, no abnormal wear and MUCH improved ride and
braking. A lot of the big bikes can be fitted the same way.


This sounds interesting - and I've heard before about using car tires on
bikes . What size do you use ? Are you running a radial ? My front is a bias
ply , Dunlop EIII , so I assume I need bias ply on the rear too ... My bike
runs 16's (130/90's FWIW) on both ends , are car tires sized the same as
bike tires ? Do they handle like the bike tires in the twisties ? We got a
lot of really windy roads around here ...
--
Snag


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Terry Coombs wrote:
Steve W. wrote:

I switched to the "dark side" (car tire instead of bike tire)long ago.
Fully loaded 1800 'wing with my fat ass on it and I get closer to 50K
on the rear tire, for less than half the price of the bike tire it
calls for. No flats, no abnormal wear and MUCH improved ride and
braking. A lot of the big bikes can be fitted the same way.


This sounds interesting - and I've heard before about using car tires on
bikes . What size do you use ? Are you running a radial ? My front is a bias
ply , Dunlop EIII , so I assume I need bias ply on the rear too ... My bike
runs 16's (130/90's FWIW) on both ends , are car tires sized the same as
bike tires ? Do they handle like the bike tires in the twisties ? We got a
lot of really windy roads around here ...


'06 GL1800
Rear - 195/55R -16 Kumho Ecsta PA31 from Tire Rack
Front - 130/70ZR-18 Bridgestone Excedra G851 from Amazon

Radials on both ends.
You can run a radial on the rear and bias on the front. BTDT.
BUT it does make it handle different.

Never had an issue with the tires when I drag the pegs but I don't get
to do that often these days. More distance rides these days.
I do know a few folks who ride darkside, who go through foot boards
yearly from grinding them down though.

Think about the technology of tires today. How many flats have you had
on your vehicles from crap tires or rough roads versus the bike? How
about the tire wear? When you put a set on a car you figure that 30K is
poor wear but accept 10K on the bike. The current rear has around 22K on
it and it's maybe 1/3 gone.

Usually the issue is side clearance. What bike do you run? Maybe it's on
the list http://darkside.nwff.info/?p=tires

--
Steve W.
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Steve W. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
Steve W. wrote:

I switched to the "dark side" (car tire instead of bike tire)long
ago. Fully loaded 1800 'wing with my fat ass on it and I get closer
to 50K on the rear tire, for less than half the price of the bike
tire it calls for. No flats, no abnormal wear and MUCH improved
ride and braking. A lot of the big bikes can be fitted the same way.


This sounds interesting - and I've heard before about using car
tires on bikes . What size do you use ? Are you running a radial ?
My front is a bias ply , Dunlop EIII , so I assume I need bias ply
on the rear too ... My bike runs 16's (130/90's FWIW) on both ends ,
are car tires sized the same as bike tires ? Do they handle like the
bike tires in the twisties ? We got a lot of really windy roads
around here ...


'06 GL1800
Rear - 195/55R -16 Kumho Ecsta PA31 from Tire Rack
Front - 130/70ZR-18 Bridgestone Excedra G851 from Amazon

Radials on both ends.
You can run a radial on the rear and bias on the front. BTDT.
BUT it does make it handle different.

Never had an issue with the tires when I drag the pegs but I don't get
to do that often these days. More distance rides these days.
I do know a few folks who ride darkside, who go through foot boards
yearly from grinding them down though.

Think about the technology of tires today. How many flats have you had
on your vehicles from crap tires or rough roads versus the bike? How
about the tire wear? When you put a set on a car you figure that 30K
is poor wear but accept 10K on the bike. The current rear has around
22K on it and it's maybe 1/3 gone.

Usually the issue is side clearance. What bike do you run? Maybe it's
on the list http://darkside.nwff.info/?p=tires


Side clearance ... I figured that would be a potential problem . My ride
is a 1990 FLHTCU , normal tire is a 130/90-16 . I've got a new Dunlop Elite
3sitting out there to install , by the time it's worn out I should be able
to figure out what will work . I agree on the technology thing and have
wondered why it is that bike tires get so few miles . I always thought the
rubber compounds were more formulated for stick rather than mileage and that
that's just the way it is ... money's not exactly tight here , but why throw
it away if there's an option ?
--
Snag


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