Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Replacement sight glass

I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?
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Default Replacement sight glass

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 6:59:32 AM UTC-4, Ignoramus31353 wrote:

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?


I would try looking in the yellow pages for places that sell glass for windows. Not that I think they would have any sight glasses, but they are likely to know who does.

Dan
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On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353
wrote:

I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?

Try the manufacturer of the hoist, or better yet, go to the class
source,Swift Glass, Corning New york - contact 131 W. 22nd Street,
Elmira, NY 14903 • Phone 607.733.7166 You want a borosilicate
sight glass - give them the diameter and thickness and I'm sure they
can fix you up. They carry Corning, Schott, Pilkington, Maxos, etc.
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Default Replacement sight glass

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 6:59:32 AM UTC-4, Ignoramus31353 wrote:
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?


If you can get dimensions from him, and have him send a sample so you know what the o-ring groove looks like (he should send the o-ring as well), any optician should be able to bang one out for you. That's pretty much what they do all day.
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Default Replacement sight glass

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 08:20:56 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353
wrote:

I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?

Try the manufacturer of the hoist, or better yet, go to the class
source,Swift Glass, Corning New york - contact 131 W. 22nd Street,
Elmira, NY 14903 • Phone 607.733.7166 You want a borosilicate
sight glass - give them the diameter and thickness and I'm sure they
can fix you up. They carry Corning, Schott, Pilkington, Maxos, etc.


I've purchased several glass rounds from McMaster.


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On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 07:24:53 -0700, wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 08:20:56 -0400,
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353
wrote:

I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?

Try the manufacturer of the hoist, or better yet, go to the class
source,Swift Glass, Corning New york - contact 131 W. 22nd Street,
Elmira, NY 14903 • Phone 607.733.7166 You want a borosilicate
sight glass - give them the diameter and thickness and I'm sure they
can fix you up. They carry Corning, Schott, Pilkington, Maxos, etc.


I've purchased several glass rounds from McMaster.


This is not my area, but it looks like something that wants some
strong glass -- tempered, or, better yet, borosilicate, as Clare said.

And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
That one looks like a gob of spit. g

--
Ed Huntress
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Default Replacement sight glass

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 11:22:45 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 07:24:53 -0700, wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 08:20:56 -0400,
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353
wrote:

I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?
Try the manufacturer of the hoist, or better yet, go to the class
source,Swift Glass, Corning New york - contact 131 W. 22nd Street,
Elmira, NY 14903 • Phone 607.733.7166 You want a borosilicate
sight glass - give them the diameter and thickness and I'm sure they
can fix you up. They carry Corning, Schott, Pilkington, Maxos, etc.


I've purchased several glass rounds from McMaster.


This is not my area, but it looks like something that wants some
strong glass -- tempered, or, better yet, borosilicate, as Clare said.


I assumed it was an unpressurized reservoir, and the main risk of
breakage is rough handling... I'd have replaced it with plexi in
1/1000 of the time this thread will take.

Anyway, I just checked, McMaster has both borosilicate and quartz in
small sizes. I replaced a similar sight glass years ago by hand
grinding some scrap window glass on one of little stained glass
shaping thingies.

And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
That one looks like a gob of spit. g


I was thinking Coyote "Engineering."
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Default Replacement sight glass

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 08:38:18 -0700, wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 11:22:45 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 07:24:53 -0700,
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 08:20:56 -0400,
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353
wrote:

I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?
Try the manufacturer of the hoist, or better yet, go to the class
source,Swift Glass, Corning New york - contact 131 W. 22nd Street,
Elmira, NY 14903 • Phone 607.733.7166 You want a borosilicate
sight glass - give them the diameter and thickness and I'm sure they
can fix you up. They carry Corning, Schott, Pilkington, Maxos, etc.

I've purchased several glass rounds from McMaster.


This is not my area, but it looks like something that wants some
strong glass -- tempered, or, better yet, borosilicate, as Clare said.


I assumed it was an unpressurized reservoir, and the main risk of
breakage is rough handling... I'd have replaced it with plexi in
1/1000 of the time this thread will take.


Yeah, it looks like an unpressurized reservoir, but one that lives in
a rough environment.


Anyway, I just checked, McMaster has both borosilicate and quartz in
small sizes. I replaced a similar sight glass years ago by hand
grinding some scrap window glass on one of little stained glass
shaping thingies.

And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
That one looks like a gob of spit. g


I was thinking Coyote "Engineering."


Applied by an actual coyote. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress
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Default Replacement sight glass

Ignoramus31353 wrote:

I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?

These things are NOT terribly expensive, maybe about $10 now. I replaced
the ones on my lathe, they were leaky and opaque.

Jon
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Default Replacement sight glass

Ignoramus31353 fired this volley in
:

I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?


Ig, it's just a sight glass! If it isn't pressurized, you could make one
yourself from darned-near any transparent material that would take the
heat of the fluid.

If you can't get one anywhere else, I'm betting the optics department of
Fischer Scientific will have exactly what you want.

Lloyd


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Default Replacement sight glass

On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g


Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used
"paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
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On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 17:00:15 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g


Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used
"paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob

+2 on that. and the paste won't jam up a valve either.
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On 2016-04-28, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g


Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used
"paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.


I sold that hoist, I did not make it or set it up.

Teflon tape works great for me.

So does the goop paste.

i
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On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 17:00:15 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g


Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used
"paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob

Years ago I added larger diameter gas pipe in our house. I asked what
sealant to use on the black iron pipe and was told to use the yellow
teflon tape. EVERY joint leaked. By the time I got to testing for
leaks the next day a bunch of the pipe had been framed in because we
were remodeling part of the house at the same time. So I had to
unscrew pipe that obstructed by all sorts of framing. GRRR. I then
called the gas people and they said "Rector Seal". No leaks with that
stuff. Kinda goopy but seals way better on crappy black iron pipe
threads.
Eric
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Default Replacement sight glass

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g


Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob

I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.
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On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g


Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.


Teflon IS PTFE.
Bob

I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.


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On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g


Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob

I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.

Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it.

Eric
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Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g


Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used
"paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.


I hate the goo factor of the paste, but it seems way less likely to leak
than the teflon tape. I've switched.




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On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g

Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.
Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it.

Eric


How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you
need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers.

3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it.
I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and
torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness
just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have
used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and
stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black
iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always
look like crap.
Eric


Yeah, I've had some pipe like that, both water pipe and gas pipe. The
water pipe is taken care of now -- I'm all-plastic except for some
ancient cast iron waste pipe -- but I had some that tore the heck out
of tape. On those, I used one of the pasty goos.

--
Ed Huntress
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On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g

Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.

Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it.

Eric


How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you
need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers.

3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it.
I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and
torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness
just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have
used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and
stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black
iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always
look like crap.
Eric
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On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g

Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.
Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it.

Eric


How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you
need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers.

3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it.
I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and
torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness
just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have
used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and
stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black
iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always
look like crap.
Eric

With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing.
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wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700,

wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David
Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a
proper job with Teflon tape.
... g

Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me
add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on
a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak
whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure
systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.
Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew
every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe
leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only
a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free
and not test it.

Eric

How many layers did you put on? As the size of the
pipe increases, you
need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three
layers.

3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said
that would do it.
I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were
very sharp and
torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think
the sharpness
just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the
goop is all I have
used since and I have had zero leaks since. With
brass and bronze and
stainless fittings I have never had problems using
tape, but the black
iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The
threads always
look like crap.
Eric


With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with
nothing.


I've seen tape used on compression nuts! ;)}

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On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:55:34 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700,

wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David
Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a
proper job with Teflon tape.
... g

Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me
add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on
a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak
whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure
systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.
Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew
every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe
leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only
a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free
and not test it.

Eric

How many layers did you put on? As the size of the
pipe increases, you
need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three
layers.
3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said
that would do it.
I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were
very sharp and
torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think
the sharpness
just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the
goop is all I have
used since and I have had zero leaks since. With
brass and bronze and
stainless fittings I have never had problems using
tape, but the black
iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The
threads always
look like crap.
Eric


With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with
nothing.


I've seen tape used on compression nuts! ;)}

And I've fixed leaky ones by removing the tape - - -


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On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:44:34 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g

Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.
Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it.

Eric

How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you
need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers.

3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it.
I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and
torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness
just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have
used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and
stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black
iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always
look like crap.
Eric

With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing.

As they should. The tape makes for easier assembly and disassembly.
Especially the disassembly.
Eric
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Posts: 18,538
Default Replacement sight glass

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 19:34:51 -0700, wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:44:34 -0400,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g

Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.
Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it.

Eric

How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you
need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers.
3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it.
I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and
torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness
just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have
used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and
stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black
iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always
look like crap.
Eric

With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing.

As they should. The tape makes for easier assembly and disassembly.
Especially the disassembly.
Eric

They don't call them "dry-fit" or "dry seal" threads for nothing.
Using teflon tape on these threads virtually always compromises the
seal, whether it makes them easier to take apart or not I don't know -
but it generally DOES make it necessary.
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Default Replacement sight glass

Why not at the local glass company. Get tempered ?! Tough stuff.

Martin

On 4/28/2016 5:59 AM, Ignoramus31353 wrote:
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?

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Default Replacement sight glass

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 23:06:08 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Why not at the local glass company. Get tempered ?! Tough stuff.


They probably can't groove premade stuff or temper cut glass.


On 4/28/2016 5:59 AM, Ignoramus31353 wrote:
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?


--
EAT RIGHT, KEEP FIT, DIE ANYWAY.
--anon

Aw, Hell. Gimme CHOCOLATE!
--LJ
  #30   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 2,163
Default Replacement sight glass

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 22:46:24 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 19:34:51 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:44:34 -0400,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g

Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.
Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it.

Eric

How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you
need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers.
3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it.
I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and
torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness
just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have
used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and
stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black
iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always
look like crap.
Eric
With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing.

As they should. The tape makes for easier assembly and disassembly.
Especially the disassembly.
Eric

They don't call them "dry-fit" or "dry seal" threads for nothing.
Using teflon tape on these threads virtually always compromises the
seal, whether it makes them easier to take apart or not I don't know -
but it generally DOES make it necessary.

If a fitting is a dryseal (NPTF) then I would use no sealant. But most
fittings are not NPTF. At least most of the ones I see and buy. YMMV.
Eric


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Default Replacement sight glass

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 22:52:43 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 23:06:08 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

Why not at the local glass company. Get tempered ?! Tough stuff.


They probably can't groove premade stuff or temper cut glass.


Bigger problem is cutting tempered glass.


And why would you pay $50 an hour (for possibly an hour or more) for
someone to attempt to make something you can buy ready made for less
than half an hour's labour???

These gkasses are readily available from several sources - several of
which I have posted. If the OP has me "plonked" and therefore isn't
getting the information I guess it's his loss.
  #32   Report Post  
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Posts: 18,538
Default Replacement sight glass

On Sat, 30 Apr 2016 08:54:58 -0700, wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 22:46:24 -0400,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 19:34:51 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:44:34 -0400,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700,
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape.
... g

Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes
have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've
used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon.

Bob
I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or
professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low
37mBar systems. They should always be checked.
Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made
with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew
none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would
assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it.

Eric

How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you
need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers.
3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it.
I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and
torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness
just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have
used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and
stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black
iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always
look like crap.
Eric
With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing.
As they should. The tape makes for easier assembly and disassembly.
Especially the disassembly.
Eric

They don't call them "dry-fit" or "dry seal" threads for nothing.
Using teflon tape on these threads virtually always compromises the
seal, whether it makes them easier to take apart or not I don't know -
but it generally DOES make it necessary.

If a fitting is a dryseal (NPTF) then I would use no sealant. But most
fittings are not NPTF. At least most of the ones I see and buy. YMMV.
Eric

Virtually every brass pipe thread fitting I have ever used was NPTF.

Steel and iron pipe are a different story.

Using teflon tape on an oil pressure switch that needs to ground a
small signal current almost guarantees a failure of the switch
function. On sensors that depend on ground through the body of the
sensor, same problem.. These switches and sensors have always been
NPTF in my experience., along with the "weatherhead" fittings used
with them.
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Default Replacement sight glass

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 3:59:32 AM UTC-7, Ignoramus31353 wrote:
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.


He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.


He's probably wrong. Why would anyone bother to grind a groove in glass?
Cut or grind a glass disk (or find a crafts-store and look at the little round
mirror selection), use a bit of cork gasket, and you're good to go.


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Posts: 18,538
Default Replacement sight glass

On Sat, 30 Apr 2016 16:44:38 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 3:59:32 AM UTC-7, Ignoramus31353 wrote:
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.


He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.


He's probably wrong. Why would anyone bother to grind a groove in glass?
Cut or grind a glass disk (or find a crafts-store and look at the little round
mirror selection), use a bit of cork gasket, and you're good to go.

There are several designs - inclusing one that takes an "O" ring
around the circumference of the glass, in a groove, and one that sits
against an "O" ring and is held in by another "O" ring between the
glass and a clamping plate. There are also glasses that are held un by
a threaded ring
  #38   Report Post  
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Posts: 9,025
Default Replacement sight glass

On Sun, 01 May 2016 01:27:44 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 30 Apr 2016 16:44:38 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 3:59:32 AM UTC-7, Ignoramus31353 wrote:
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.


He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.


He's probably wrong. Why would anyone bother to grind a groove in glass?
Cut or grind a glass disk (or find a crafts-store and look at the little round
mirror selection), use a bit of cork gasket, and you're good to go.


No need to reply to the Whittard, clare.


There are several designs - inclusing one that takes an "O" ring
around the circumference of the glass, in a groove, and one that sits
against an "O" ring and is held in by another "O" ring between the
glass and a clamping plate. There are also glasses that are held un by
a threaded ring


I prefer the threaded style because it offers a way to apply a
measured stress on the glass. It's much safer than trying to press
the glass against the o-ring and then force a circlip down around the
delicate edges. The latter only works well in a factory with a proper
press and backing plates. Ig's hoist had an external groove, which
would have made it easier for a circlip, but still hard on the glass.
I'll bet his client broke it trying to remove it to clean the paint
overspray, no doubt by an earlier owner.

--
EAT RIGHT, KEEP FIT, DIE ANYWAY.
--anon

Aw, Hell. Gimme CHOCOLATE!
--LJ
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Posts: 10,399
Default Replacement sight glass

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353
wrote:

I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken.

Here are some pictures:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/

He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring.

My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea?
McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only?


http://www.escopro.com/

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