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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#41
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
Even worse is H2S Hydrogen Sulfide.
It is as small as water, can't mechanically filter it. It can out gas from water and attack the lungs and blood system. Quick painful death. e.g. poison gas well. The only filtration method is over silver metal. Or massive oxygenation. Banks of water towers that spray fine mist. The Hydrogen is so small it invades iron and steel and plastic pipe. In Fe materials - rust and exfoliation occurs. Death of a water system by a thousand cuts. The sulfur ionizes to SO2 rotten egg gas. It helps rot out copper pipes and by stealing Oxygen from the water, More hydrogen kills pipes. The free oxygen attacks the pipe and creates FeO a black powder with a metallic slick on ceramic..... Martin On 7/4/2015 6:56 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: John B. fired this volley in : I read somewhere that everyone that consumes even tiny amounts is either already dead, or will die. Some chemists say that the correct term is not "dihydrogen monoxide", but for specific reasons, Hydrogen Hydroxide. H(OH), in sufficient concentration, will also prevent oxygen from being absorbed by the lungs. Many people have died from H(OH)'s effects on oxygen absorption. It's dangerous, damaging stuff! Hundreds of Billions of Dollars worth of damage to property and infrastructure can be attributed to exposure to it. It's even been known to wear holes through iron well pipes. Lloyd |
#42
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
Martin Eastburn fired this volley in
: Even worse is H2S Hydrogen Sulfide. In order -- yes, it's worse. It is as small as water, can't mechanically filter it. It can out gas from water and attack the lungs and blood system. Quick painful death. e.g. poison gas well. The only filtration method is over silver metal. Or massive oxygenation. Banks of water towers that spray fine mist. Silver is hardly the only way, or even the preferred way to remove it. Using a silver-bearing filter requires very expensive recycling of the silver sulfide created, and it's a pain as well as expensive. H2S can be removed by chlorination (which some folks don't like), converting the sulfur to insoluble sulfides that CAN be filtered mechanically. It can also be removed by so-called "manganese green sand" filters. Or, as you suggested above, by aeration. That method doesn't USE oxygenation, although that occurs as a byproduct of the spraying. H2S has a high vapor pressure. Break the water up into small enough droplets or thin enough sheets, and H2S will gas-off by itself. Residence time in the tank with the top surface exposed to circulating air after the first aeration improves the degree of 'desulfurization'. The downside of the method is that it requires two pumps: One for lift-and-spraying, the other to move water from the desulfuring tank to the pressure tank. No "banks of water towers" are required. We have strong "sulfur water" here. For residential service, a single 500-gallon 'square' (high as wide) tank (heavily ventilated and screened) with four 'sheeting nozzles' spraying the fresh well water over the top, and plenty of air circulation serves fine to remove all of it. The Hydrogen is so small it invades iron and steel and plastic pipe. In Fe materials - rust and exfoliation occurs. Death of a water system by a thousand cuts. The sulfur ionizes to SO2 rotten egg gas. Nope... "rotten egg gas" is H2S. SO2 is "sour" (acid in smell and taste) If SO2 is released or created, it combines with water to form sulfurOUS acid, that is pretty corrosive. It's not a natural product of sulfur water aeration, and seldom is present in well water. I will agree that 'sulfur water' rots pipes out faster than 'good' water, but only if it GETS INTO your COPPER or brass pipes. We remove the H2S before it gets into anything but the iron lift pipe and first pump (iron, also). HS2 doesn't tend to affect iron much after that very thin 'black layer' you mention forms. Mine's only about 17 years old right now...still going strong, though; no leaks, no corrosion. And when I had the lift pump off for replacement (due to lightning) about a year ago, NO visible diminishment of the wall thickness of the pipe. Lloyd |
#43
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
On Sat, 04 Jul 2015 20:57:04 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: Martin Eastburn fired this volley in : Even worse is H2S Hydrogen Sulfide. In order -- yes, it's worse. It is as small as water, can't mechanically filter it. It can out gas from water and attack the lungs and blood system. Quick painful death. e.g. poison gas well. The only filtration method is over silver metal. Or massive oxygenation. Banks of water towers that spray fine mist. Silver is hardly the only way, or even the preferred way to remove it. Using a silver-bearing filter requires very expensive recycling of the silver sulfide created, and it's a pain as well as expensive. H2S can be removed by chlorination (which some folks don't like), converting the sulfur to insoluble sulfides that CAN be filtered mechanically. It can also be removed by so-called "manganese green sand" filters. Or, as you suggested above, by aeration. That method doesn't USE oxygenation, although that occurs as a byproduct of the spraying. H2S has a high vapor pressure. Break the water up into small enough droplets or thin enough sheets, and H2S will gas-off by itself. Residence time in the tank with the top surface exposed to circulating air after the first aeration improves the degree of 'desulfurization'. The downside of the method is that it requires two pumps: One for lift-and-spraying, the other to move water from the desulfuring tank to the pressure tank. I'm not sure about treating water but "sour gas", i.e. hydrocarbon gas containing significant amounts of H2S, is usually treated using amines in trayed columns which can also remove CO2. The system uses an amine-water mix as an absorbent. By the way, H2S in small concentrations smells like rotten eggs, but in concentrations dangerous to life it deadens the sense of smell so it effectively has no odor :-) No "banks of water towers" are required. We have strong "sulfur water" here. For residential service, a single 500-gallon 'square' (high as wide) tank (heavily ventilated and screened) with four 'sheeting nozzles' spraying the fresh well water over the top, and plenty of air circulation serves fine to remove all of it. The Hydrogen is so small it invades iron and steel and plastic pipe. In Fe materials - rust and exfoliation occurs. Death of a water system by a thousand cuts. The sulfur ionizes to SO2 rotten egg gas. Nope... "rotten egg gas" is H2S. SO2 is "sour" (acid in smell and taste) If SO2 is released or created, it combines with water to form sulfurOUS acid, that is pretty corrosive. It's not a natural product of sulfur water aeration, and seldom is present in well water. I will agree that 'sulfur water' rots pipes out faster than 'good' water, but only if it GETS INTO your COPPER or brass pipes. We remove the H2S before it gets into anything but the iron lift pipe and first pump (iron, also). HS2 doesn't tend to affect iron much after that very thin 'black layer' you mention forms. Mine's only about 17 years old right now...still going strong, though; no leaks, no corrosion. And when I had the lift pump off for replacement (due to lightning) about a year ago, NO visible diminishment of the wall thickness of the pipe. Lloyd -- cheers, John B. |
#44
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
On 07/03/2015 1:53 PM, Dave, I can't do that wrote:
.... I think the well people out here know what they are talking about. ... I wonder if instead they simply say something and if the customer buys it and continues to pony up and simply replace what isn't working well with the same thing it's no skin off their noses... Have you actually _seen_ and inspected one of these failed sections? I suppose it would be too much to think you'd have one around and could post pic's? Is it _really_ abrasion-thinning from the _INSIDE_ of the pipe or, as I'm guessing outside? -- |
#45
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
Small well Lloyd The hydrogen is small and gets into iron standpipes
of the firehouse and valves as well as black iron pipes in homes .... The black is black oxide. It flakes off, being super fine and makes the pipe wall thinner. The volume of an 8" small pipe is larger than your well. I'm talking about city size wells for filling tall towers. The volume is much higher than you figure. Our little town doesn't have the problem, but the main pipes are running 600 PSI in a 16" pipe. We have new building near our place - across the wire fence.. They drove heavy equipment over a pipe that jammed down into the main trunk. It was better than a fountain on the 4th. Martin On 7/4/2015 8:57 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Martin Eastburn fired this volley in : Even worse is H2S Hydrogen Sulfide. In order -- yes, it's worse. It is as small as water, can't mechanically filter it. It can out gas from water and attack the lungs and blood system. Quick painful death. e.g. poison gas well. The only filtration method is over silver metal. Or massive oxygenation. Banks of water towers that spray fine mist. Silver is hardly the only way, or even the preferred way to remove it. Using a silver-bearing filter requires very expensive recycling of the silver sulfide created, and it's a pain as well as expensive. H2S can be removed by chlorination (which some folks don't like), converting the sulfur to insoluble sulfides that CAN be filtered mechanically. It can also be removed by so-called "manganese green sand" filters. Or, as you suggested above, by aeration. That method doesn't USE oxygenation, although that occurs as a byproduct of the spraying. H2S has a high vapor pressure. Break the water up into small enough droplets or thin enough sheets, and H2S will gas-off by itself. Residence time in the tank with the top surface exposed to circulating air after the first aeration improves the degree of 'desulfurization'. The downside of the method is that it requires two pumps: One for lift-and-spraying, the other to move water from the desulfuring tank to the pressure tank. No "banks of water towers" are required. We have strong "sulfur water" here. For residential service, a single 500-gallon 'square' (high as wide) tank (heavily ventilated and screened) with four 'sheeting nozzles' spraying the fresh well water over the top, and plenty of air circulation serves fine to remove all of it. The Hydrogen is so small it invades iron and steel and plastic pipe. In Fe materials - rust and exfoliation occurs. Death of a water system by a thousand cuts. The sulfur ionizes to SO2 rotten egg gas. Nope... "rotten egg gas" is H2S. SO2 is "sour" (acid in smell and taste) If SO2 is released or created, it combines with water to form sulfurOUS acid, that is pretty corrosive. It's not a natural product of sulfur water aeration, and seldom is present in well water. I will agree that 'sulfur water' rots pipes out faster than 'good' water, but only if it GETS INTO your COPPER or brass pipes. We remove the H2S before it gets into anything but the iron lift pipe and first pump (iron, also). HS2 doesn't tend to affect iron much after that very thin 'black layer' you mention forms. Mine's only about 17 years old right now...still going strong, though; no leaks, no corrosion. And when I had the lift pump off for replacement (due to lightning) about a year ago, NO visible diminishment of the wall thickness of the pipe. Lloyd |
#46
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
Martin Eastburn fired this volley in
: he volume is much higher than you figure. Our little town doesn't have the problem, but the main pipes are running 600 PSI in a 16" pipe. I don't know what you figure I figure... I didn't argue with hydrogen embrittlement. At 600psi, all sorts of things happen that don't at lower pressures. What I argued with was someone's (yours?) statement that S02 was the "rotten egg smell". It's not. Lloyd |
#47
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
Whatever.
Martin On 7/9/2015 5:33 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Martin Eastburn fired this volley in : he volume is much higher than you figure. Our little town doesn't have the problem, but the main pipes are running 600 PSI in a 16" pipe. I don't know what you figure I figure... I didn't argue with hydrogen embrittlement. At 600psi, all sorts of things happen that don't at lower pressures. What I argued with was someone's (yours?) statement that S02 was the "rotten egg smell". It's not. Lloyd |
#48
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
Martin Eastburn fired this volley in
: Whatever. Do I correctly interpret your "whatever" to say that in your opinion SO2 IS the 'rotten eggs smell'. Or is it some other mental shrug you're doing. If you are maintaing that, I'll give you a simple experiment that will generate all the SO2 you want, so you can smell it, and see if it reminds you of rotten eggs. Just make a pile of about a teaspoonful flowers of sulfur on a fireproof surface. Heaping it up as high as possible will help. Gently play a torch flame over the pile. It'll start to look molten in drops, then turn a reddish color, then brown, the parts will go back to yellow and catch fire with a faint blue flame. It will flicker and lick, and you may have to keep the torch at the ready to keep it burning. The gas coming off that blue fire is sulfur dioxide. Take a SMALL sniff, and get back with us on your impressions. Lloyd |
#49
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 4.170... Martin Eastburn fired this volley in : Whatever. Do I correctly interpret your "whatever" to say that in your opinion SO2 IS the 'rotten eggs smell'. Or is it some other mental shrug you're doing. If you are maintaing that, I'll give you a simple experiment that will generate all the SO2 you want, so you can smell it, and see if it reminds you of rotten eggs. Just make a pile of about a teaspoonful flowers of sulfur on a fireproof surface. Heaping it up as high as possible will help. Gently play a torch flame over the pile. It'll start to look molten in drops, then turn a reddish color, then brown, the parts will go back to yellow and catch fire with a faint blue flame. It will flicker and lick, and you may have to keep the torch at the ready to keep it burning. The gas coming off that blue fire is sulfur dioxide. Take a SMALL sniff, and get back with us on your impressions. Lloyd A lead-acid battery smells slightly of SO2.but not H2S with the filler caps off. |
#50
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
This isn't worth the work to prove anything. I know what kills me
on an easy day. And I have talked to large and small developers of housing and work sites. Posion gas is dangerous and starts out as rotten eggs and then you loose the smell. You are not allergic to sulphur like I. I'm sensitive to it. I'm talking about H2S not So2. And that is the difference. Martin On 7/10/2015 6:22 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Martin Eastburn fired this volley in : Whatever. Do I correctly interpret your "whatever" to say that in your opinion SO2 IS the 'rotten eggs smell'. Or is it some other mental shrug you're doing. If you are maintaing that, I'll give you a simple experiment that will generate all the SO2 you want, so you can smell it, and see if it reminds you of rotten eggs. Just make a pile of about a teaspoonful flowers of sulfur on a fireproof surface. Heaping it up as high as possible will help. Gently play a torch flame over the pile. It'll start to look molten in drops, then turn a reddish color, then brown, the parts will go back to yellow and catch fire with a faint blue flame. It will flicker and lick, and you may have to keep the torch at the ready to keep it burning. The gas coming off that blue fire is sulfur dioxide. Take a SMALL sniff, and get back with us on your impressions. Lloyd |
#51
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
"Dave, I can't do that" wrote: On Friday, July 3, 2015 at 9:13:48 AM UTC-7, Tim Wescott wrote: Make sure your fancy wattmeter can stand the current draw -- a normal outlet is 10 or 15 amps; your pump may need much more. It's a 240v 1.5hp motor (1134-Watt) and I doubt the meter is directly in series with the load. Might be wrong, have been before. Or just an old mechanical clock, if you looked at it often Great idea, thanks, I will see what's at the local junk shops next time in town. Must surely be able to find one of those old flap-clocks. The pump, supply and connections are 100-feet from the house and not visible and, I would prefer not to be adding 100-Watts extra to the costs. I am going with the flap-clock, if I can find one. Brilliant thought, thanks again. Dave This is a lot better than an old clock: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standco-Type-T-41-AC-Running-Time-Meter-2-/400822185748 |
#52
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
Larry Jaques wrote: So why haven't you put a rubber baby buggy bumper around the pipe there during one of these repair sessions, Dave? This would head off the repair instead of just letting you know when it wore through. I have seen bumpers you can install on the flexi poly line so it doesn't wear through. (Where the hell did I see that?) Googlit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-STOP-ARRESTOR-WATER-WELL-SUBMERSIBLE-PUMP-WIRE-PROTECTION-ARRESTER-/271552325722 Lowe's has them, on their website. |
#53
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
On Mon, 27 Jul 2015 02:30:00 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: So why haven't you put a rubber baby buggy bumper around the pipe there during one of these repair sessions, Dave? This would head off the repair instead of just letting you know when it wore through. I have seen bumpers you can install on the flexi poly line so it doesn't wear through. (Where the hell did I see that?) Googlit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-STOP-ARRESTOR-WATER-WELL-SUBMERSIBLE-PUMP-WIRE-PROTECTION-ARRESTER-/271552325722 Lowe's has them, on their website. LORDY, they don't give those away, do they? -- My desire to be well-informed is currently at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess |
#54
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
Larry Jaques wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: So why haven't you put a rubber baby buggy bumper around the pipe there during one of these repair sessions, Dave? This would head off the repair instead of just letting you know when it wore through. I have seen bumpers you can install on the flexi poly line so it doesn't wear through. (Where the hell did I see that?) Googlit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-STOP-ARRESTOR-WATER-WELL-SUBMERSIBLE-PUMP-WIRE-PROTECTION-ARRESTER-/271552325722 Lowe's has them, on their website. LORDY, they don't give those away, do they? $17, compared to the price of all the other parts? |
#55
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Electrical - what's wrong with this?
On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 08:45:20 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: So why haven't you put a rubber baby buggy bumper around the pipe there during one of these repair sessions, Dave? This would head off the repair instead of just letting you know when it wore through. I have seen bumpers you can install on the flexi poly line so it doesn't wear through. (Where the hell did I see that?) Googlit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-STOP-ARRESTOR-WATER-WELL-SUBMERSIBLE-PUMP-WIRE-PROTECTION-ARRESTER-/271552325722 Lowe's has them, on their website. LORDY, they don't give those away, do they? $17, compared to the price of all the other parts? No, seventeen bucks for a little piece of rubber and a pair of hose clamps. Ootrageous, it is. -- My desire to be well-informed is currently at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess |
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