My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and
get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked
on the web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's"
diamond sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well.
I only worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know
what I was doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the
method to correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:19:19 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and
get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked
on the web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's"
diamond sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well.
I only worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know
what I was doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the
method to correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.

--
Ed Huntress

Tom Gardner prodded the keyboard

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months
of daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic
knives and get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good
introduction. I looked on the web and attempted to sharpen it with
the fine/coarse "Smith's" diamond sharpener I have that is about 1"
x 4" and has served me well. I only worked on the knife for a few
minutes and since I didn't know what I was doing and afraid of doing
damage, I stopped. What's the method to correctly sharpen ceramic
knives?

Diamond abrasives will sharpen ceramic knives ! They use diamond
wheels to sharpen them in the first place.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:30:32 AM UTC-8, Baron wrote:
Tom Gardner prodded the keyboard

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months
of daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic
knives and get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good
introduction. I looked on the web and attempted to sharpen it with
the fine/coarse "Smith's" diamond sharpener I have that is about 1"
x 4" and has served me well. I only worked on the knife for a few
minutes and since I didn't know what I was doing and afraid of doing
damage, I stopped. What's the method to correctly sharpen ceramic
knives?

Diamond abrasives will sharpen ceramic knives ! They use diamond
wheels to sharpen them in the first place.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.



Perhaps others will find How Kyocera does it helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqn7vcByIgo

On 12/20/2014 1:21 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:19:19 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and
get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked
on the web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's"
diamond sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well.
I only worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know
what I was doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the
method to correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.



Fine for the $5 knife I got at Aldi's but one could make a substantial
investment in ceramic knives. Are you saying to stay away from Ceramic?
I have a few Stainless Steel knives and I don't like them, I prefer
carbon steel knives and I know how to care for them. But the ceramic
one I have I just loved while it was razor sharp.

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:40:15 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 12/20/2014 1:21 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:19:19 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and
get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked
on the web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's"
diamond sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well.
I only worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know
what I was doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the
method to correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.



Fine for the $5 knife I got at Aldi's but one could make a substantial
investment in ceramic knives. Are you saying to stay away from Ceramic?

No, just be careful with them and don't let them get nicked. Unless
you're slicing sausage with sand in it, they take a hell of a long
time to get dull.

I have a few Stainless Steel knives and I don't like them, I prefer
carbon steel knives and I know how to care for them. But the ceramic
one I have I just loved while it was razor sharp.

Well, maybe you'll find a way to restore them. *Good* diamond hones
are so friggin' expensive in all but the smallest sizes that I avoid
them -- or anything that requires them to sharpen.

Maybe silicon carbide is hard enough; I don't know. Anyway, remember
that you don't have to worry about burrs, so you can drag the edge
across a stone, rather than pushing into it.

I'm with you on carbon steel knives. I have some that are 60 years old
or more. My parents sold Sabatier (plain carbon) and Zanger (440 ss)
in their store, so I have some really fine kitchen knives. And at
least 30 sharpening stones. g

--
Ed Huntress

On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:30:32 AM UTC-8, Baron wrote:
Tom Gardner prodded the keyboard

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months
of daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic
knives and get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good
introduction. I looked on the web and attempted to sharpen it with
the fine/coarse "Smith's" diamond sharpener I have that is about 1"
x 4" and has served me well. I only worked on the knife for a few
minutes and since I didn't know what I was doing and afraid of doing
damage, I stopped. What's the method to correctly sharpen ceramic
knives?

Diamond abrasives will sharpen ceramic knives ! They use diamond
wheels to sharpen them in the first place.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.


Never used this device but it or something else with diamond abrasives like you mention will work:

http://youtu.be/jVPiACZUPoI

http://tinyurl.com/qj5a235

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:40:15 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 12/20/2014 1:21 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:19:19 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and
get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked
on the web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's"
diamond sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well.
I only worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know
what I was doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the
method to correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.



Fine for the $5 knife I got at Aldi's but one could make a substantial
investment in ceramic knives. Are you saying to stay away from Ceramic?
I have a few Stainless Steel knives and I don't like them, I prefer
carbon steel knives and I know how to care for them. But the ceramic
one I have I just loved while it was razor sharp.
====================
for how to videos see
http://tinyurl.com/nmf467p

For use rather than show you may be better off using
commercial food prep cutlery. The new "high carbon
stainless" takes a fine edge, and the less expensive lines
such as Mercer [made in Taiwan using German HCSS steel] seem
to be a very good value. Mercer is sold in the restaurant
supply stores and not the big box outlets.
http://tinyurl.com/ku3lmdp

I have dealt with webstaurant and have found them to be
reliable and easy to do business with.
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/
I particularly like the Mercer wide chefs knife and the
straight boning knife for food prep. Suggest buying the
blade guards and cutting sheet at the same time to protect
the knives.
http://tinyurl.com/odn4vrc
http://tinyurl.com/k3he9cr
http://tinyurl.com/l65d8d4
http://tinyurl.com/mpsjnpo
http://tinyurl.com/ks2q2l3


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Saturday, December 20, 2014 1:51:04 PM UTC-5, Ed Huntress wrote:

Well, maybe you'll find a way to restore them. *Good* diamond hones
are so friggin' expensive in all but the smallest sizes that I avoid
them -- or anything that requires them to sharpen.

Diamond abrasives used to be expensive, but they seem to be fairly cheap now.
I have a couple of the Eze-Lap hones that I have had for years. The cost of them now is about the same as I paid. But taking inflation into account, they are now about half the price.

http://eze-lap.com/hunting_fishing_o...se/hone-stone/

and ebay item 321469341282. Not bad for about $5 when you add shipping.

This site http://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm Shows SiC is harder than Zirconia so you can use that. But the diamond is a lot faster.

I have some diamond coated stainless disks, most made by Kinik. They were used to flatten silicon wafers and are worn out as far as industry is concerned. At least that is what I suspect as they were in the local scrap yard.. But they still work well. The only problem is they are relatively coarse. Too coarse for sharpening knifes.

But back to how to sharpen Ceramic Knifes. Just do the same as sharpening steel knifes.

Find of the day. A soft Arkansas stone for twenty five cents at the Habitat for Humanity store. It was dirty and not close to flat, but rubbing it on some sandpaper got it flatter and clean.

Dan



Maybe silicon carbide is hard enough; I don't know. Anyway, remember
that you don't have to worry about burrs, so you can drag the edge
across a stone, rather than pushing into it.

I'm with you on carbon steel knives. I have some that are 60 years old
or more. My parents sold Sabatier (plain carbon) and Zanger (440 ss)
in their store, so I have some really fine kitchen knives. And at
least 30 sharpening stones. g

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:40:15 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 12/20/2014 1:21 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:19:19 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and
get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked
on the web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's"
diamond sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well.
I only worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know
what I was doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the
method to correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.



Fine for the $5 knife I got at Aldi's but one could make a substantial
investment in ceramic knives. Are you saying to stay away from Ceramic?
I have a few Stainless Steel knives and I don't like them, I prefer
carbon steel knives and I know how to care for them. But the ceramic
one I have I just loved while it was razor sharp.

What are you doing to these poor things to dull them, Tawm? I quickly
realized that I couldn't use them to wedge chicken thighs from their
sockets (chip), and I broke my ceramic chef's knife by trying to cut a
sweet potato with it. As it broke through the halfway point and the
potato gave way, the knife snapped in half on the poly cutting board.
I learned a hard ($25) lesson there. The ceramic paring knife doesn't
seem to ever dull, though.

I like the relative coarseness of the 600 grit diamond plates for all
my carbon steel knives, but prefer the 1200 grit diamond for ceramic.
The 600 roughed out the chip, and the 1200 sharpened it. Even with the
diamond, it takes forever. But because they stay so sharp for so long,
I have little experience sharpening ceramic.

--
With every experience, you alone are painting your
own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice.
-- Oprah Winfrey

Tom Gardner wrote:
My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and
get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked
on the web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's"
diamond sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well.
I only worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know
what I was doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the
method to correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

Diamond wheel or flat hone. Sharpen like any other knife.

--
Steve W.

On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:21:27 AM UTC-8, slow eddy got it wrong again:

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.

--
Ed Huntress

slow eddy, self-proclaimed expert at everything, gets it wrong again. I'm shocked, just shocked I tell you. :)

BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaa

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:48:17 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Saturday, December 20, 2014 1:51:04 PM UTC-5, Ed Huntress wrote:

Well, maybe you'll find a way to restore them. *Good* diamond hones
are so friggin' expensive in all but the smallest sizes that I avoid
them -- or anything that requires them to sharpen.

Diamond abrasives used to be expensive, but they seem to be fairly cheap now.
I have a couple of the Eze-Lap hones that I have had for years. The cost of them now is about the same as I paid. But taking inflation into account, they are now about half the price.

http://eze-lap.com/hunting_fishing_o...se/hone-stone/

Well, maybe that's worth a try. I picked up some samples of diamond
hones at IMTS a few years back, and I've used them for honing WC
brazed-tip tools. They look like a narrower version of those you've
linked to. They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.



and ebay item 321469341282. Not bad for about $5 when you add shipping.

This site http://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm Shows SiC is harder than Zirconia so you can use that. But the diamond is a lot faster.

Hmm. It's worth a try. If you've ever ground carbide tools with a
green wheel (SiC), you've probably noticed that you don't get a great
edge, and that the wheel wears pretty fast.

But it may work better honing by hand. Tom should give it a try and
let us know.


I have some diamond coated stainless disks, most made by Kinik. They were used to flatten silicon wafers and are worn out as far as industry is concerned. At least that is what I suspect as they were in the local scrap yard. But they still work well. The only problem is they are relatively coarse. Too coarse for sharpening knifes.

But back to how to sharpen Ceramic Knifes. Just do the same as sharpening steel knifes.

Find of the day. A soft Arkansas stone for twenty five cents at the Habitat for Humanity store. It was dirty and not close to flat, but rubbing it on some sandpaper got it flatter and clean.

Dan

Good. I love tose, and have quite a few in different degrees of
hardness and grit. That's what I use for most of my cutting edges.

--
Ed Huntress

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message ...

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and get
better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked on the
web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's" diamond
sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well. I only
worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know what I was
doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the method to
correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

I'm not sure if it would work on ceramic knives, but I made a leather belt
for my HF 1X30 belt sander and made a power hone. If it was charged with
some ultra fine diamond compound, it might be great for sharpening ceramic
knives. I'm guessing the compounds for steel wouldn't work on ceramic,
haven't tried though.

RogerN

On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:04:56 PM UTC-5, Ed Huntress wrote:



Well, maybe that's worth a try. I picked up some samples of diamond
hones at IMTS a few years back, and I've used them for honing WC
brazed-tip tools. They look like a narrower version of those you've
linked to. They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.

It sounds as if you are well fixed for sharpening stones, but if you want a diamond sharpening stone look on Ebay. I think the Chinese military encouraged the manufacture of diamond coated tools. At any rate there is a large variety of diamond coated things on Ebay.



This site http://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm Shows SiC is harder than Zirconia so you can use that. But the diamond is a lot faster.

Hmm. It's worth a try. If you've ever ground carbide tools with a
green wheel (SiC), you've probably noticed that you don't get a great
edge, and that the wheel wears pretty fast.

But it may work better honing by hand. Tom should give it a try and
let us know.


SiC does not work real well for honing carbide by hand. Although the SiC is hard enough, it is not strong enough.

Dan




--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:39:03 PM UTC-8, F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"


I ****ing hate using those types of sharpeners. Their just not as good as EZE-LAPS:

http://tinyurl.com/klh5wu9

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 22:39:00 -0600, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo

Thanks, George. Maybe I'll break down and give them a try. The price
is right. You can pay a lot more than that for a hard Arkansas stone.
I have a couple of 6" x 2" stones, and they sell for over $40 each
now.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 18:36:29 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:04:56 PM UTC-5, Ed Huntress wrote:



Well, maybe that's worth a try. I picked up some samples of diamond
hones at IMTS a few years back, and I've used them for honing WC
brazed-tip tools. They look like a narrower version of those you've
linked to. They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.

It sounds as if you are well fixed for sharpening stones, but if you want a diamond sharpening stone look on Ebay. I think the Chinese military encouraged the manufacture of diamond coated tools. At any rate there is a large variety of diamond coated things on Ebay.



This site http://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm Shows SiC is harder than Zirconia so you can use that. But the diamond is a lot faster.

Hmm. It's worth a try. If you've ever ground carbide tools with a
green wheel (SiC), you've probably noticed that you don't get a great
edge, and that the wheel wears pretty fast.

But it may work better honing by hand. Tom should give it a try and
let us know.


SiC does not work real well for honing carbide by hand. Although the SiC is hard enough, it is not strong enough.

Dan




--
Ed Huntress

I'll give one a try when I can. Norton is a source I contact every
week. I should see if they have any discounts. The list price on their
diamond bench stones is over the top, for me.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 00:06:14 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 22:39:00 -0600, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo

Thanks, George. Maybe I'll break down and give them a try. The price
is right. You can pay a lot more than that for a hard Arkansas stone.
I have a couple of 6" x 2" stones, and they sell for over $40 each
now.
=======================
If you need to reprofile the knife see
http://tinyurl.com/lfulfck
this also works very well on the new harder steel knives.

If you try this be sure to get the post mount as these are
almost impossible to use otherwise.
http://tinyurl.com/ng77xyg [not necesary to screw down]
c-clamp version
http://tinyurl.com/k4ncknx

For a super fine edge, Lansky sells just the stone holders
and you can hot melt or epoxy a ultrafine diamond hone.
http://tinyurl.com/pajgnoh



--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 22:39:00 -0600, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo

I doubt that any stone from HF, despite their claims, goes finer than
300 grit. They're fine for yard tools, but I wouldn't sharpen one of
my good knives or woodworking blades on one. It's OK for my pocket
knife since that, usually, is relegated to cutting string or cable
ties, and opening packages.

I keep a set of DMT paddles (1x2.5") in the truck and have 2x6 hones
at home. http://tinyurl.com/klll5dy

http://tinyurl.com/kadnubr and http://eze-lap.com/
Go with DMT (best) or EzeLap (better) over HF (cheap/inconsistent).
The Eze seemed coarser at first, then got finer, while the DMT hasn't
changed in 20 years.

Amazon has great deals on them.
eBay has outstanding deals on them on occasion.

Buy a diamond hone and keep/use it forever.

--
With every experience, you alone are painting your
own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice.
-- Oprah Winfrey

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 23:52:27 -0600, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 00:06:14 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 22:39:00 -0600, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo

Thanks, George. Maybe I'll break down and give them a try. The price
is right. You can pay a lot more than that for a hard Arkansas stone.
I have a couple of 6" x 2" stones, and they sell for over $40 each
now.
=======================
If you need to reprofile the knife see
http://tinyurl.com/lfulfck
this also works very well on the new harder steel knives.

"Special honing oil" with a diamond hone? chuckle
Whatever floats their boat. shrug

--
With every experience, you alone are painting your
own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice.
-- Oprah Winfrey

On 12/20/2014 11:39 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo




Nice! Will order.

On 12/20/2014 11:59 PM, jon_banquer wrote:
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:39:03 PM UTC-8, F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"


I ****ing hate using those types of sharpeners. Their just not as good as EZE-LAPS:

http://tinyurl.com/klh5wu9




Why are they better? Other than some are bigger.

On 12/20/2014 9:18 PM, RogerN wrote:
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message ...

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and get
better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked on the
web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's" diamond
sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well. I only
worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know what I was
doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the method to
correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

I'm not sure if it would work on ceramic knives, but I made a leather belt
for my HF 1X30 belt sander and made a power hone. If it was charged with
some ultra fine diamond compound, it might be great for sharpening ceramic
knives. I'm guessing the compounds for steel wouldn't work on ceramic,
haven't tried though.

RogerN



Great idea!

On Sunday, December 21, 2014 11:40:34 AM UTC-8, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 12/20/2014 11:59 PM, jon_banquer wrote:
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:39:03 PM UTC-8, F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"


I ****ing hate using those types of sharpeners. Their just not as good as EZE-LAPS:

http://tinyurl.com/klh5wu9




Why are they better? Other than some are bigger.


DMT uses less abrasive material so they can sell their product cheaper. They use a metal mesh to surround the spots of diamonds and falsely claim that this helps to prevent clogging. What the metal mesh design really does is make the job harder and take longer.

On Sunday, December 21, 2014 5:12:49 PM UTC-5, jon_banquer wrote:

Why are they better? Other than some are bigger.


DMT uses less abrasive material so they can sell their product cheaper. They use a metal mesh to surround the spots of diamonds and falsely claim that this helps to prevent clogging. What the metal mesh design really does is make the job harder and take longer.

I do not like the ones with holes. They do not work well to put a sharp edge on a small thing as a carbide insert.

Clogging is not really a problem. If you use water with some dish detergent you do not get clogging. If you use it without anything to float the metal bits away, then using a light wire brush or a regular tooth brush and some soapy water will unclog it.

Dan

On Sunday, December 21, 2014 7:33:45 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, December 21, 2014 5:12:49 PM UTC-5, jon_banquer wrote:

Why are they better? Other than some are bigger.


DMT uses less abrasive material so they can sell their product cheaper. They use a metal mesh to surround the spots of diamonds and falsely claim that this helps to prevent clogging. What the metal mesh design really does is make the job harder and take longer.

I do not like the ones with holes. They do not work well to put a sharp edge on a small thing as a carbide insert.

Clogging is not really a problem. If you use water with some dish detergent you do not get clogging. If you use it without anything to float the metal bits away, then using a light wire brush or a regular tooth brush and some soapy water will unclog it.

Dan


Right on all counts.

There is a reason Tom Gardner and many others can't stop reading what I post.

On Sunday, December 21, 2014 11:38:32 AM UTC-8, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 12/20/2014 11:39 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 20:04:51 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

They're OK, but I'd want a larger stone for working on
knives.
http://tinyurl.com/cuhqpe4
http://tinyurl.com/mnodtvo




Nice! Will order.

You now have someone else who agrees with what I have to say about not buying these garbage sharpeners.

Think of the trouble and frustration I saved you. At least you were smart enough to put your German pride aside to ask your Zionist Jew enemy for clarification.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...an-claims.html

On 12/21/2014 10:54 PM, jon_banquer wrote:

DMT uses less abrasive material so they can sell their product
cheaper. They use a metal mesh to surround the spots of diamonds
and falsely claim that this helps to prevent clogging. What the
metal mesh design really does is make the job harder and take
longer.

I do not like the ones with holes. They do not work well to put a
sharp edge on a small thing as a carbide insert.

Clogging is not really a problem. If you use water with some dish
detergent you do not get clogging. If you use it without anything
to float the metal bits away, then using a light wire brush or a
regular tooth brush and some soapy water will unclog it.

Dan


Right on all counts.

There is a reason Tom Gardner and many others can't stop reading what
I post.





When you are civil.

On 12/20/2014 1:21 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.
go

Using mw diamond lap I have put a nice edge on the knife. Now I have
the "feel" for it and a methodology. After some thought, I won't be
investing in more ceramic knives, good ones are expensive! I have a
couple of very good French made carbon steel knives from 30 years ago
and I have no new requirements. Maybe if I were to do Sushi or such.
But the on e I have is handy and it has impressed me.

On Mon, 22 Dec 2014 09:26:46 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 12/20/2014 1:21 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.
go

Using mw diamond lap I have put a nice edge on the knife. Now I have
the "feel" for it and a methodology. After some thought, I won't be
investing in more ceramic knives, good ones are expensive! I have a
couple of very good French made carbon steel knives from 30 years ago
and I have no new requirements. Maybe if I were to do Sushi or such.
But the on e I have is handy and it has impressed me.

I'll have to get a cheap one to try some time. People I know who have
them either love them or hate them. But I don't know many people who
know how to sharpen a steel knife. I'm well equipped for that.

Hey, since you're a tomater grower, here's Ed's Tomato Knife
sharpening tip:

"Friends, do your tomatoes mush when you try to slice them clean? Do
even your sharpest knives balk on a tough tomato skin?

"Well, mush no more! Take the cheapest, dime-store stainless slicer
(at least medium-length) in your drawer, and give it a few strokes
with the coarsest bench stone you have. Don't try to refine the endge.
Don't stroke it on a sharpening steel. You want a fine-toothed saw.

"It will go through those skins like they weren't even there, and it
will slice your tomatoes clean. Don't use it for anything else, and it
will last through a couple of seasons before you have to stroke it
again."

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 22 Dec 2014 09:26:46 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 12/20/2014 1:21 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.
go

Using mw diamond lap I have put a nice edge on the knife. Now I
have
the "feel" for it and a methodology. After some thought, I won't be
investing in more ceramic knives, good ones are expensive! I have a
couple of very good French made carbon steel knives from 30 years
ago
and I have no new requirements. Maybe if I were to do Sushi or
such.
But the on e I have is handy and it has impressed me.

I'll have to get a cheap one to try some time. People I know who
have
them either love them or hate them. But I don't know many people who
know how to sharpen a steel knife. I'm well equipped for that.

Hey, since you're a tomater grower, here's Ed's Tomato Knife
sharpening tip:

"Friends, do your tomatoes mush when you try to slice them clean? Do
even your sharpest knives balk on a tough tomato skin?

"Well, mush no more! Take the cheapest, dime-store stainless slicer
(at least medium-length) in your drawer, and give it a few strokes
with the coarsest bench stone you have. Don't try to refine the
endge.
Don't stroke it on a sharpening steel. You want a fine-toothed saw.

"It will go through those skins like they weren't even there, and it
will slice your tomatoes clean. Don't use it for anything else, and
it
will last through a couple of seasons before you have to stroke it
again."

--
Ed Huntress

A file can put a nasty slashing edge on a knife too.

On Monday, December 22, 2014 6:14:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 12/21/2014 10:54 PM, jon_banquer wrote:

DMT uses less abrasive material so they can sell their product
cheaper. They use a metal mesh to surround the spots of diamonds
and falsely claim that this helps to prevent clogging. What the
metal mesh design really does is make the job harder and take
longer.

I do not like the ones with holes. They do not work well to put a
sharp edge on a small thing as a carbide insert.

Clogging is not really a problem. If you use water with some dish
detergent you do not get clogging. If you use it without anything
to float the metal bits away, then using a light wire brush or a
regular tooth brush and some soapy water will unclog it.

Dan


Right on all counts.

There is a reason Tom Gardner and many others can't stop reading what
I post.





When you are civil.


Most of time you don't deserve to be treated with respect.

On 12/22/2014 12:09 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Mon, 22 Dec 2014 09:26:46 -0500, Tom Gardner
wrote:

On 12/20/2014 1:21 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

The same way they sharpen ceramic cutting inserts: Buy new ones.
go

Using mw diamond lap I have put a nice edge on the knife. Now I have
the "feel" for it and a methodology. After some thought, I won't be
investing in more ceramic knives, good ones are expensive! I have a
couple of very good French made carbon steel knives from 30 years ago
and I have no new requirements. Maybe if I were to do Sushi or such.
But the on e I have is handy and it has impressed me.

I'll have to get a cheap one to try some time. People I know who have
them either love them or hate them. But I don't know many people who
know how to sharpen a steel knife. I'm well equipped for that.

Hey, since you're a tomater grower, here's Ed's Tomato Knife
sharpening tip:

"Friends, do your tomatoes mush when you try to slice them clean? Do
even your sharpest knives balk on a tough tomato skin?

"Well, mush no more! Take the cheapest, dime-store stainless slicer
(at least medium-length) in your drawer, and give it a few strokes
with the coarsest bench stone you have. Don't try to refine the endge.
Don't stroke it on a sharpening steel. You want a fine-toothed saw.

"It will go through those skins like they weren't even there, and it
will slice your tomatoes clean. Don't use it for anything else, and it
will last through a couple of seasons before you have to stroke it
again."



Yep! I do similar, the burr is where it's at

jon_banquer wrote:
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:30:32 AM UTC-8, Baron wrote:
Tom Gardner prodded the keyboard

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months
of daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic
knives and get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good
introduction. I looked on the web and attempted to sharpen it with
the fine/coarse "Smith's" diamond sharpener I have that is about 1"
x 4" and has served me well. I only worked on the knife for a few
minutes and since I didn't know what I was doing and afraid of doing
damage, I stopped. What's the method to correctly sharpen ceramic
knives?

Diamond abrasives will sharpen ceramic knives ! They use diamond
wheels to sharpen them in the first place.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.



Perhaps others will find How Kyocera does it helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqn7vcByIgo

Yes immediately ordered one of these,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281349431... 4.m1439.l2649

Now I have to make a flat rotating disc to mount it on

F Murtz prodded the keyboard

jon_banquer wrote:
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:30:32 AM UTC-8, Baron wrote:
Tom Gardner prodded the keyboard

My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6
months
of daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic
knives and get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good
introduction. I looked on the web and attempted to sharpen it
with the fine/coarse "Smith's" diamond sharpener I have that is
about 1" x 4" and has served me well. I only worked on the knife
for a few minutes and since I didn't know what I was doing and
afraid of doing
damage, I stopped. What's the method to correctly sharpen
ceramic knives?

Diamond abrasives will sharpen ceramic knives ! They use diamond
wheels to sharpen them in the first place.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.



Perhaps others will find How Kyocera does it helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqn7vcByIgo

Yes immediately ordered one of these,

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281349431... 4.m1439.l2649

Now I have to make a flat rotating disc to mount it on

Yes, one of those would work very well ! You will find that its quite
rigid but a plastic (prefered) or HDF platter would give extra
support.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On Mon, 29 Dec 2014 18:16:37 +1100, F Murtz
wrote:

jon_banquer wrote:

Perhaps others will find How Kyocera does it helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqn7vcByIgo

Yes immediately ordered one of these,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281349431... 4.m1439.l2649

Now I have to make a flat rotating disc to mount it on

A little more reasonable for most folks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8jL5vSAYMI

John

John DeArmond
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.fluxeon.com
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
See website for email address

On Saturday, December 20, 2014 1:19:27 PM UTC-5, Tom Gardner wrote:
My $5.00 ceramic knife has lost it's razor edge after about 6 months of
daily use. I like the knife and will purchase more ceramic knives and
get better quality. But, for $5 it was a good introduction. I looked
on the web and attempted to sharpen it with the fine/coarse "Smith's"
diamond sharpener I have that is about 1" x 4" and has served me well.
I only worked on the knife for a few minutes and since I didn't know
what I was doing and afraid of doing damage, I stopped. What's the
method to correctly sharpen ceramic knives?

Well, this guy has it down. Used diamond grit films down to 0.5 micron. Awesome video, too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjqnkcPIuCY .