Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On 25 Jul 2016 02:34:37 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-07-21, Cracka Jack wrote:
replying to DoN. Nichols, Cracka Jack wrote:
Safe combinations are permutations not combinations, order matters :-)


Of course it does. You did not quote anything of the original
article, and it has been a long time, so I forget what I said back then.

Just how old an article did you followup to in this and the
previous one. I strongly doubt that the original poster of the question
is still on the newsgroup.

And using a thermic lance doesn't do much for preserving the
contents -- which *might* be important papers.

Enjoy,
DoN.


While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.


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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On 7/25/2016 7:32 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 25 Jul 2016 02:34:37 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-07-21, Cracka Jack wrote:
replying to DoN. Nichols, Cracka Jack wrote:
Safe combinations are permutations not combinations, order matters :-)


Of course it does. You did not quote anything of the original
article, and it has been a long time, so I forget what I said back then.

Just how old an article did you followup to in this and the
previous one. I strongly doubt that the original poster of the question
is still on the newsgroup.

And using a thermic lance doesn't do much for preserving the
contents -- which *might* be important papers.

Enjoy,
DoN.


While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something


....you've never used or seen.

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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

Gunner Asch on Mon, 25 Jul 2016 07:32:07 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 25 Jul 2016 02:34:37 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-07-21, Cracka Jack wrote:
replying to DoN. Nichols, Cracka Jack wrote:
Safe combinations are permutations not combinations, order matters :-)


Of course it does. You did not quote anything of the original
article, and it has been a long time, so I forget what I said back then.

Just how old an article did you followup to in this and the
previous one. I strongly doubt that the original poster of the question
is still on the newsgroup.

And using a thermic lance doesn't do much for preserving the
contents -- which *might* be important papers.

Enjoy,
DoN.


While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.


It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.

Or look into a portable mill setup.

I have a strong box which I thought I lost the keys to. If I
couldn't get it opened by a locksmith - that was the sort of route I
was figuring I would be taking.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Mon, 25 Jul 2016 11:02:59 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Gunner Asch on Mon, 25 Jul 2016 07:32:07 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 25 Jul 2016 02:34:37 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-07-21, Cracka Jack wrote:
replying to DoN. Nichols, Cracka Jack wrote:
Safe combinations are permutations not combinations, order matters :-)

Of course it does. You did not quote anything of the original
article, and it has been a long time, so I forget what I said back then.

Just how old an article did you followup to in this and the
previous one. I strongly doubt that the original poster of the question
is still on the newsgroup.

And using a thermic lance doesn't do much for preserving the
contents -- which *might* be important papers.

Enjoy,
DoN.


While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.


It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.

Or look into a portable mill setup.

I have a strong box which I thought I lost the keys to. If I
couldn't get it opened by a locksmith - that was the sort of route I
was figuring I would be taking.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."


I once read that a certain group in one of the Western State's police
had discovered a method of opening safe's. They used a 8" angle
grinder with cut-off wheels. This was presented in evidence at their
trial :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On 2016-07-25, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Gunner Asch on Mon, 25 Jul 2016 07:32:07 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 25 Jul 2016 02:34:37 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-07-21, Cracka Jack wrote:
replying to DoN. Nichols, Cracka Jack wrote:
Safe combinations are permutations not combinations, order matters :-)


[ ... ]

Just how old an article did you followup to in this and the
previous one. I strongly doubt that the original poster of the question
is still on the newsgroup.

And using a thermic lance doesn't do much for preserving the
contents -- which *might* be important papers.


[ ... ]

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.


It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.


Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)

And the Mosler and Diebold security file cabinets have at a
minimum a pair of big fat bolts going into the frame on either side of
the drawer front where the combination lock is mounted. There are
linkages which lock the other drawers to a lesser extent when the master
drawer is closed.

And -- one which I had decades ago had a big thick door which
had the multi-bolts on all sides arrangement with hinges designed to
roll back into the side of the safe on the right. The rest of the safe
contained a normal file cabinet. It was locked by both a combination
lock and a key lock. And those combination locks are designed so if you
try to drill them out, or break off the dial and then drive it through
the back of the lock, a secondary mechanism double-locks the bolt, so
you are back to milling off the border of the door -- which goes in
steps as you get deeper. Oh yes -- the lock is also protected by cement
filled with old carbide inserts, to make drilling a bit of a task, too. :-)

"Round and round the door" would work eventually -- but that
would be several inches thickness of hardened steel before you get
there. :-)

Or look into a portable mill setup.

I have a strong box which I thought I lost the keys to. If I
couldn't get it opened by a locksmith - that was the sort of route I
was figuring I would be taking.


If you still have it -- check whether there are fat bolts which
are operated by the locking mechanism. That might make full destruction
the main choice. :-)

And the security file cabinets come with labels specifying how
long they protect against various things, including "manipulation of the
lock" and "fire". But the fun one was "0 man-minutes against forceable
entry". (Explosives, I presume. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---


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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.


It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.


Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)


Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.
"Patience, grasshopper"
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Or look into a portable mill setup.

I have a strong box which I thought I lost the keys to. If I
couldn't get it opened by a locksmith - that was the sort of route I
was figuring I would be taking.


If you still have it -- check whether there are fat bolts which
are operated by the locking mechanism. That might make full destruction
the main choice. :-)


A simple fireproof box, all it had was a strong latch.

And the security file cabinets come with labels specifying how
long they protect against various things, including "manipulation of the
lock" and "fire". But the fun one was "0 man-minutes against forceable
entry". (Explosives, I presume. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:51:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.


Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)


Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.
"Patience, grasshopper"
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."


Best way to open one of those multi bolt safes...measure back from the
front of the door about 1/3rd of the distance to the back...then fire
up the abrasive saw and cut the entire face of the safe off.


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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:51:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.


Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)


Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.


Right, mill the steel cover off the door so you can get at the guts.


"Patience, grasshopper"


"Patience, grasshopper. This may take a while. Hardened steel is
truly a bitch." http://tinyurl.com/hgj6rge

--
It is easier to fool people than it is to
convince people that they have been fooled.
--Mark Twain
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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 13:06:12 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:51:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.

Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)


Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.
"Patience, grasshopper"
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."


Best way to open one of those multi bolt safes...measure back from the
front of the door about 1/3rd of the distance to the back...then fire
up the abrasive saw and cut the entire face of the safe off.


Vroom, vroom! http://tinyurl.com/jkb2zev

--
It is easier to fool people than it is to
convince people that they have been fooled.
--Mark Twain


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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 14:18:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:51:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.

Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)


Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.


Right, mill the steel cover off the door so you can get at the guts.


Actually...in most of those safes...the cover is on the inside...not
the outside. Lots and lots of metal in the front. Shrug
Most of them are hardened in the front as well..which is why they are
so ****ing hard to get into.

http://image.shutterstock.com/z/stoc...-137488052.jpg

http://thesafehouse.info/articles/Un...fe/Figure4.jpg

http://0.tqn.com/w/experts/Locksmith...03/safe_60.jpg

You can open them from the inside with a impact driver and a crescent
wrench...or even a square sided big screw driver and a crescent
wrench.

Shrug

Gunner





"Patience, grasshopper"


"Patience, grasshopper. This may take a while. Hardened steel is
truly a bitch." http://tinyurl.com/hgj6rge


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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 14:18:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.


Right, mill the steel cover off the door so you can get at the guts.


https://www.the-minuteman.org/wp-con...7862794234.jpg

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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

Gunner Asch on Tue, 26 Jul 2016 13:06:12 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:51:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.

Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)


Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.
"Patience, grasshopper"
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."


Best way to open one of those multi bolt safes...measure back from the
front of the door about 1/3rd of the distance to the back...then fire
up the abrasive saw and cut the entire face of the safe off.


Well, that is one way.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."
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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:37:04 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 14:18:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.


Right, mill the steel cover off the door so you can get at the guts.


https://www.the-minuteman.org/wp-con...7862794234.jpg


Ooh, -nice- safe! Beats what we have all to hell.

--
It is easier to fool people than it is to
convince people that they have been fooled.
--Mark Twain
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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:32:07 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 14:18:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:51:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.

Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)

Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.


Right, mill the steel cover off the door so you can get at the guts.


Actually...in most of those safes...the cover is on the inside...not
the outside. Lots and lots of metal in the front. Shrug
Most of them are hardened in the front as well..which is why they are
so ****ing hard to get into.


Yeah, I've been watching too many low-budget bank robbery films.


http://image.shutterstock.com/z/stoc...-137488052.jpg

http://thesafehouse.info/articles/Un...fe/Figure4.jpg

http://0.tqn.com/w/experts/Locksmith...03/safe_60.jpg


Holy ****, Batman! That's a layer cake, innit?


You can open them from the inside with a impact driver and a crescent
wrench...or even a square sided big screw driver and a crescent
wrench.


Umm, how often have you locked yourself inside your bank vault, that
you would know this, hmm?

--
It is easier to fool people than it is to
convince people that they have been fooled.
--Mark Twain


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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 19:04:23 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:32:07 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 14:18:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:51:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.

Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)

Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.

Right, mill the steel cover off the door so you can get at the guts.


Actually...in most of those safes...the cover is on the inside...not
the outside. Lots and lots of metal in the front. Shrug
Most of them are hardened in the front as well..which is why they are
so ****ing hard to get into.


Yeah, I've been watching too many low-budget bank robbery films.


http://image.shutterstock.com/z/stoc...-137488052.jpg

http://thesafehouse.info/articles/Un...fe/Figure4.jpg

http://0.tqn.com/w/experts/Locksmith...03/safe_60.jpg


Holy ****, Batman! That's a layer cake, innit?


You can open them from the inside with a impact driver and a crescent
wrench...or even a square sided big screw driver and a crescent
wrench.


Umm, how often have you locked yourself inside your bank vault, that
you would know this, hmm?


I worked around safes with a family member who worked for Debolt as a
safe repair guy for a few years as a kid. The mechanics of them
fascinated me and I learned a bit about them. Same with slot machines
when I was working for Western Geo out in Nevada. Something
interesting and I tended to pick it up pretty quickly. Shrug


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On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 20:36:03 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 19:04:23 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:32:07 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 14:18:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:51:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.

Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)

Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.

Right, mill the steel cover off the door so you can get at the guts.

Actually...in most of those safes...the cover is on the inside...not
the outside. Lots and lots of metal in the front. Shrug
Most of them are hardened in the front as well..which is why they are
so ****ing hard to get into.


Yeah, I've been watching too many low-budget bank robbery films.


http://image.shutterstock.com/z/stoc...-137488052.jpg

http://thesafehouse.info/articles/Un...fe/Figure4.jpg

http://0.tqn.com/w/experts/Locksmith...03/safe_60.jpg


Holy ****, Batman! That's a layer cake, innit?


You can open them from the inside with a impact driver and a crescent
wrench...or even a square sided big screw driver and a crescent
wrench.


Umm, how often have you locked yourself inside your bank vault, that
you would know this, hmm?


I worked around safes with a family member who worked for Debolt as a
safe repair guy for a few years as a kid. The mechanics of them
fascinated me and I learned a bit about them. Same with slot machines
when I was working for Western Geo out in Nevada. Something
interesting and I tended to pick it up pretty quickly. Shrug

Unfortunately you don't seem to "pick it up pretty quickly" how to get
a job and pay your bills.

But I imagine that is pretty big problem for a Dole Blunders like you.
"Get A Job?" "Pay the bills?" "Hey man, I'm a 'merican, what language
are you speaking anyhow?"

--

Alvin D.
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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 20:36:03 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 19:04:23 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:32:07 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 14:18:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 11:51:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" on 26 Jul 2016 04:43:37 GMT
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

While a lance will not "destroy" gold...it will...will destroy
everything else inside the safe, paper money, jewelry etc etc

A lance is something you use when you know the safe is empty..or the
contents need to be destroyed.

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.

Hmm ... in a real safe, the hinges are to support the door when
it is open -- to keep it from falling and crushing your toes. :-)

There are a number of fat hardened steel bolts around the door
-- deep into the thickness of it -- which go into sockets in the frame.
Mill off the hinges and the door is still not going to go anywhere. :-)

Yeah, there is that.

Maybe just milling a circle in a face until it falls out.

Right, mill the steel cover off the door so you can get at the guts.

Actually...in most of those safes...the cover is on the inside...not
the outside. Lots and lots of metal in the front. Shrug
Most of them are hardened in the front as well..which is why they are
so ****ing hard to get into.


Yeah, I've been watching too many low-budget bank robbery films.


http://image.shutterstock.com/z/stoc...-137488052.jpg

http://thesafehouse.info/articles/Un...fe/Figure4.jpg

http://0.tqn.com/w/experts/Locksmith...03/safe_60.jpg


Holy ****, Batman! That's a layer cake, innit?


You can open them from the inside with a impact driver and a crescent
wrench...or even a square sided big screw driver and a crescent
wrench.


Umm, how often have you locked yourself inside your bank vault, that
you would know this, hmm?


I worked around safes with a family member who worked for Debolt as a
safe repair guy for a few years as a kid. The mechanics of them
fascinated me and I learned a bit about them. Same with slot machines
when I was working for Western Geo out in Nevada. Something
interesting and I tended to pick it up pretty quickly. Shrug


Cool!

--
It is easier to fool people than it is to
convince people that they have been fooled.
--Mark Twain
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On Monday, July 25, 2016 at 11:03:06 AM UTC-7, pyotr filipivich wrote:

It seems to me that one could put the safe on a mill (if
possible), and "mill off" the hinges. Or round and round the door
till it is no longer held in place.


The hinges aren't what secures a safe door, they just keep it from
falling on your toes when you open it. Unlike a front door
(hinges on the right, bolt on the left) a safe door is typically
secured by bolts on top, right, left, bottom. The big lever
retracts LOTS of bolts when the safe is opened.
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Any chance of corporate having a code breaker for it?


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I have a large Diebold safe but I'm trying to sell€¦ Anybody have an interest I've attached a couple pictures of it. If you don't have interest but know somebody that I could talk to you to find out the true value on the safe I would appreciate it. I do have a combination and it does work. I am more than happy to email pictures as well. My monitoring email account is
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On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 4:05:57 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I have a large Diebold safe but I'm trying to sell€¦


You might mention where you are. Those in Norway and Australia may not be interested.

Dan

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On Wed, 26 Jul 2017 17:17:41 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

wrote:

I have a large Diebold safe but I'm trying to sell… Anybody have an
interest I've attached a couple pictures of it. If you don't have
interest but know somebody that I could talk to you to find out the true
value on the safe I would appreciate it. I do have a combination and it
does work. I am more than happy to email pictures as well. My monitoring
email account is

If it is a 3 number combination, according to Richard Feynman, it can't take
over 30 minutes to open it.


Yabbut, little Dicky was kinda gifted.

-
If ever the Time should come, when vain and aspiring

Men shall possess the highest Seats in Government,

our Country will stand in Need of its experienced

Patriots to prevent its Ruin.
-- Samuel Adams
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Default Need to open a DIEBOLD SAFE

Jon Elson writes:

wrote:


I have a large Diebold safe but I'm trying to sell€¦ Anybody have an
interest I've attached a couple pictures of it. If you don't have
interest but know somebody that I could talk to you to find out the true
value on the safe I would appreciate it. I do have a combination and it
does work. I am more than happy to email pictures as well. My monitoring
email account is


If it is a 3 number combination, according to Richard Feynman, it can't take
over 30 minutes to open it.


Only with that generation of locks, AND with predictable behaviour by the
combination-setter.

Won't work with an X07, etc...


--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
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pyotr filipivich writes:


My sister was run over by a Diebold.


Are you sure you don't mean a Zamboni?
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
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On Mon, 31 Jul 2017 22:39:53 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

pyotr filipivich writes:


My sister was run over by a Diebold.


Are you sure you don't mean a Zamboni?


Right. Diebolds are much safer.

--
In preparing for battle I have always found that plans are useless,
but planning is indispensable. --Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower
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Send me a pic...I've opened one a friend bought at flea market had a 4 number combination
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