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Default Chipper Shredder plans


i have cleaned up a good bit of the lot and now have several piles of
yard waste to get rid of. I would like to chip and shred the stuff
and then rototill it in to some places where the soil could use more
organic matter. The closest place to dispose of yard waste is a fair
ways away and if I do that I still need to do something to improve the
soil.

So does anyone have plans for a well designed chipper shredder?


Dan
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On Jun 3, 6:20*pm, Rich Grise wrote:

So does anyone have plans for a well designed chipper shredder?


What am I missing here? Wouldn't it make more sense to rent one for a day
than to build one from scratch that you're only going to use once?

Have Fun!
Rich


I expect to use it every year. Right now I am looking at about a week
and a half of shredding. But probably only two or three days a year
after I get caught up.

Dan

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wrote in message
...

i have cleaned up a good bit of the lot and now have several piles of
yard waste to get rid of. I would like to chip and shred the stuff
and then rototill it in to some places where the soil could use more
organic matter. The closest place to dispose of yard waste is a fair
ways away and if I do that I still need to do something to improve the
soil.

So does anyone have plans for a well designed chipper shredder?


Woody material ( which is typically what people use chippers for ) isn't
going to improve the soil much by itself, you need to also add copious
amounts of green stuff, and it's better to compost it all in a pile first
rather than to simply till under.

In the absence of leafy greens, you can add high nitrogen fertilizer to the
pile but...

Anyways, I strongly suggest rent a commercial chipper with 35+hp engine if
you have several days worth of chipping to do, IOW a heavy duty trailer
mounted jobbie....then take your time find something off of craigslist or
nickle ads locally for future use.

As far as home-owner grade...definately pass on anything that uses a
verticle shaft lawnmower type motor or you'll be sorry...

As a point of refrence, mine is a "bearcat"....it's pto drive that attaches
to the 3point hitch on my tractor which has 23hp @ at 540...it is not a
"planer blade" type, rather, it has a disc that's about the size of a 33-1/3
rpm lp record and 3/8 in thick with a single tooth mounted to it....

RPM is increased via Vee belt appears to be 1 to 3 ratio so the main chipper
disc I would estimate runs ~2500 rpm, it is about 12 in diameter and has a
single tooth about 4in long located at about 10 inches along the diameter,
and is guaged to cut at a chipload of about .125 per revolution IIRC so
guessing it's probably processing at ~ 6000 or so sfm.

After that, the chips fall into what is basically a hammer mill, 4 rows of
with 6 flails each on a drum.... there is also a top hopper that you can use
to shove small dry sticks and green shubs and that kind of **** into...goes
directly to the hammermill...there is a screen under the hammermill that the
finished product falls out of....it's made from 1/4in steel and has ~1in
diameter holes drilled in a 1-1/2in grid pattern.

I might be able to get some pictures if your interested in the actual design
details but....

--my main point is that it's still not quite as powerfull as I would
like--IIRC it will run 3in diameter green woody branches at a rate of about
5 ft/ min on a good day but at that size material frequently have to stop
feeding in order to keep the engine from bogging down and possibly
stalling.....

FWIW, I have a fairly large burn pile I'm going to torch probably tomorrow
and pretty sure I haven't used the chipper in at least 5 years.

Oops--it's actually a "mighty mac"...it's probably rated ~4 x 4 in--sorry
but at quick glance I din't see any model numbers.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...hty-mac-sm.jpg

Again, suggest first try the rental unit, ~40 horsepower......get er done
!!!

--



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Default Chipper Shredder plans

Why not rent one and put the chips where you want - and roto-till
the results into a compost pile or into the ground.

When Tree people were here to clear a line - I had two trucks dump
their loads on my side yard along our long driveway. We plan on
raking it out to improve the ground a bit like you. Now a year and
a half, most of each hill is great looking compost. Going to be
nice starter stuff. The stacks were smoking while they were cooking
and decomposing. I let them smoke. Fire was not my worry.

Martin

On 6/3/2011 4:12 PM, wrote:

i have cleaned up a good bit of the lot and now have several piles of
yard waste to get rid of. I would like to chip and shred the stuff
and then rototill it in to some places where the soil could use more
organic matter. The closest place to dispose of yard waste is a fair
ways away and if I do that I still need to do something to improve the
soil.

So does anyone have plans for a well designed chipper shredder?


Dan



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Default Chipper Shredder plans

On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 17:06:38 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 3, 6:20*pm, Rich Grise wrote:

So does anyone have plans for a well designed chipper shredder?


What am I missing here? Wouldn't it make more sense to rent one for a day
than to build one from scratch that you're only going to use once?

Have Fun!
Rich


I expect to use it every year. Right now I am looking at about a week
and a half of shredding. But probably only two or three days a year
after I get caught up.

Dan

I use my **** shaker (compost screener) one day per year. The rest of
the time it takes up about 1.5 square feet of floor space in the shed.
IIRC it cost me about $5 to build it.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
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In article ,
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote:

FWIW, I have a fairly large burn pile I'm going to torch probably tomorrow
and pretty sure I haven't used the chipper in at least 5 years.


Other than the burn part....

I rented a monster chipper 8 years ago. Got a free "upgrade" in size (6"
to 9") since the rental place didn't have the size I reserved in working
order. VW engine (1600 cc.) Miserable, but effective, at least where
things had been piled specifically to get chipped. Unless they had
grapevines in them, which would jam the chipper up, so those had to be
removed (once you've cleared a 36" disc a few times, you learn to pull
the vines ahead of feeding the branches...) Random piles took too long
to disassemble to be efficient getting into the chipper.

I could use a decent hammermill for grinding up small stuff to rot
faster, but haven't found one I'd care to spend money on. Bigger "stuff
you might chip" mostly ends up as firewood.

So, I pile brush. If feeling moderately impatient, I pile horse manure
on the brush pile. With or without manure, the brush pile will shrink
over time. Either more brush gets added to the top, or the pile shrinks
to nothing. The active piles are worth manuring, just to weight them
down for more space to pile in the first place, and for the faster rot
(and further space created by shrinkage) in the second.

This will not work so well in desert climates, I suppose. Here, stuff
left out will inevitably rot, and do so faster if helped along.

Not so quick as chip or burn, but a lot simpler & quieter. Just pick an
out of the way spot and pile brush.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.
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On Jun 3, 9:43*pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:

Woody material ( which is typically what people use chippers for ) isn't
going to improve the soil much by itself, you need to also add copious
amounts of green stuff, and it's better to compost it all in a pile first
rather than to simply till under.


The soil here is mostly clay. In the area I cleared for a veggie
garden, I trucked in about 4 pickup loads of ground woody material
from the county yard waste yard and then added about five pickup loads
of horse manure last fall. It still has too much clay, but is a lot
better than it was.


As far as home-owner grade...definately pass on anything that uses a
verticle shaft lawnmower type motor or you'll be sorry...

Those are pretty much useless.


As a point of refrence, mine is a "bearcat"....it's pto drive that attaches
to the 3point hitch on my tractor which has 23hp @ at 540...it is not a
"planer blade" type, rather, it has a disc that's about the size of a 33-1/3
rpm lp record and 3/8 in thick with a single tooth mounted to it....

RPM is increased via Vee belt appears to be 1 to 3 ratio so the main chipper
disc I would estimate runs ~2500 rpm, it is about 12 in diameter and has a
single tooth about 4in long located at about 10 inches along the diameter,
and is guaged to cut at a chipload of about .125 per revolution IIRC so
guessing it's probably processing at ~ 6000 or so sfm.

Does the tooth chip the branch and the chip goes through the disk? I
had one more or less like that but then moved across country. As i
remember it had multiple teeth, I think it was two teeth. One tooth
might be better as far as bogging down the engine.


After that, the chips fall into what is basically a hammer mill, 4 rows of
with 6 flails each on a drum.... there is also a top hopper that you can use
to shove small dry sticks and green shubs and that kind of **** into...goes
directly to the hammermill...there is a screen under the hammermill that the
finished product falls out of....it's made from 1/4in steel and has ~1in
diameter holes drilled in a 1-1/2in grid pattern.

I might be able to get some pictures if your interested in the actual design
details but....

*--my main point is that it's still not quite as powerfull as I would
like--IIRC it will run 3in diameter green woody branches at a rate of about
5 ft/ min on a good day but at that size material frequently have to stop
feeding in order to keep the engine from bogging down and possibly
stalling.....


Most all the stuff I want to chip is smaller. More like an inch in
diameter.
I could live with a chipper that did not do 3 inch diameter limbs.
Those
I could haul to the county yard waste area.

FWIW, I have a fairly large burn pile I'm going to torch probably tomorrow
and pretty sure I haven't used the chipper in at least 5 years.


Can not burn where I am. At least not legally.

Dan


Oops--it's actually *a "mighty mac"...it's probably rated ~4 x 4 in--sorry
but at quick glance I din't see any model numbers.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...nts/47721d1133...

Again, suggest first try the rental unit, ~40 horsepower......get er done
!!!

--


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On Jun 3, 10:18*pm, Ecnerwal
I could use a decent hammermill for grinding up small stuff to rot
faster, but haven't found one I'd care to spend money on. Bigger "stuff
you might chip" mostly ends up as firewood.


Me too.


So, I pile brush. If feeling moderately impatient, I pile horse manure
on the brush pile. With or without manure, the brush pile will shrink
over time. Either more brush gets added to the top, or the pile shrinks
to nothing. The active piles are worth manuring, just to weight them
down for more space to pile in the first place, and for the faster rot
(and further space created by shrinkage) in the second.

This will not work so well in desert climates, I suppose. Here, stuff
left out will inevitably rot, and do so faster if helped along.

Not so quick as chip or burn, but a lot simpler & quieter. Just pick an
out of the way spot and pile brush.

--

I guess I am too impatient. One pile that could be in a more out of
the way place has shrunk from about 6 feet high to about 4 + feet high
in a year. And it has horse manure on it.

Dan
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On Jun 3, 9:49*pm, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Why not rent one and put the chips where you want - and roto-till
the results into a compost pile or into the ground.


Martin

I like to build things. Where is the fun in renting?

Dan


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wrote in message
...

----- Original Message -----
From:
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 7:40 PM
Subject: Chipper Shredder plans


On Jun 3, 9:43 pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:

Woody material ( which is typically what people use chippers for ) isn't
going to improve the soil much by itself, you need to also add copious
amounts of green stuff, and it's better to compost it all in a pile first
rather than to simply till under.


The soil here is mostly clay. In the area I cleared for a veggie
garden, I trucked in about 4 pickup loads of ground woody material
from the county yard waste yard and then added about five pickup loads
of horse manure last fall. It still has too much clay, but is a lot
better than it was.


Without the horse manure it would have been a different story.



As far as home-owner grade...definately pass on anything that uses a
verticle shaft lawnmower type motor or you'll be sorry...

Those are pretty much useless.


A consumer fraud, but I digress.

Fairly often, in fact.


As a point of refrence, mine is a "bearcat"....it's pto drive that
attaches
to the 3point hitch on my tractor which has 23hp @ at 540...it is not a
"planer blade" type, rather, it has a disc that's about the size of a
33-1/3
rpm lp record and 3/8 in thick with a single tooth mounted to it....

RPM is increased via Vee belt appears to be 1 to 3 ratio so the main
chipper
disc I would estimate runs ~2500 rpm, it is about 12 in diameter and has
a
single tooth about 4in long located at about 10 inches along the
diameter,
and is guaged to cut at a chipload of about .125 per revolution IIRC so
guessing it's probably processing at ~ 6000 or so sfm.

Does the tooth chip the branch and the chip goes through the disk? I


Yes, that's pretty much how it works--I can't remember exactly how the chip
thickness is controlled but I'll try and take a look tomorrow, maybe take a
photo since just recently I got a new phone that actually lets me download
to my computer...

had one more or less like that but then moved across country. As i
remember it had multiple teeth, I think it was two teeth. One tooth
might be better as far as bogging down the engine.


It may have more teeth, like I say, it's been a while...

If your not interested in the hammermill aspect, and are just wanting a
disc type chipper then it's certainly do-able project though pretty sure
OSHA might not like having your hired hands using it...



After that, the chips fall into what is basically a hammer mill, 4 rows
of
with 6 flails each on a drum.... there is also a top hopper that you can
use
to shove small dry sticks and green shubs and that kind of ****
into...goes
directly to the hammermill...there is a screen under the hammermill that
the
finished product falls out of....it's made from 1/4in steel and has ~1in
diameter holes drilled in a 1-1/2in grid pattern.

I might be able to get some pictures if your interested in the actual
design
details but....

--my main point is that it's still not quite as powerfull as I would
like--IIRC it will run 3in diameter green woody branches at a rate of
about
5 ft/ min on a good day but at that size material frequently have to stop
feeding in order to keep the engine from bogging down and possibly
stalling.....


Most all the stuff I want to chip is smaller. More like an inch in
diameter.
I could live with a chipper that did not do 3 inch diameter limbs.
Those
I could haul to the county yard waste area.


Or use as fire wood...


FWIW, I have a fairly large burn pile I'm going to torch probably
tomorrow
and pretty sure I haven't used the chipper in at least 5 years.


Can not burn where I am. At least not legally.


It's almost all but joke here where I'm at--download a "permit", print and
sign it, keep it on the premesis...make sure and abide by the outdoor
burning rules:

http://www.swcleanair.org/pdf/CowlitzBurnPermit.pdf

--although next county over, it's a completely different story.



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"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:4_2dndWo0InWJHTQnZ2dnUVZ_jSdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

wrote in message
...

----- Original Message -----
From:
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 7:40 PM
Subject: Chipper Shredder plans


On Jun 3, 9:43 pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:

Woody material ( which is typically what people use chippers for ) isn't
going to improve the soil much by itself, you need to also add copious
amounts of green stuff, and it's better to compost it all in a pile
first
rather than to simply till under.


The soil here is mostly clay.


Oops forgot...BTDT

1/2 to 1/4 pea gravel ( no fines ) ....a 3/4 lift on top of the beds and
till to 10in appx depth.

( you can do it mid season even--sort of a "mulch" to inhibit weeds...till
under come fall )

In the area I cleared for a veggie


The local deer population love visiting here.

--


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On Jun 4, 1:52*am, Rich Grise wrote:

What does your buy vs. build chart look like so far? Want me to
design one for you? ;-P

Cheers!
Rich


So far my build vs buy chart looks like:

Build
Buy
Get to play designer Spend
money
Get to weld
Get to go to industrial junk yards
Get to tear apart and fix problems
Get to use that thing I got and
did not know what it was.
Get sympathy when injured

Dan
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On Jun 3, 9:43*pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:

Woody material ( which is typically what people use chippers for ) isn't
going to improve the soil much by itself, you need to also add copious
amounts of green stuff, and it's better to compost it all in a pile first
rather than to simply till under.

In the absence of leafy greens, you can add high nitrogen fertilizer to the
pile but...



In the area I cleared for a vegie garden, I dumped about four pickup
loads of ground yard waste from the county yard waste disposal place
and followed that with about five pickup loads of horse manure. it
still is not great, but much better.




As far as home-owner grade...definately pass on anything that uses a
verticle shaft lawnmower type motor or you'll be sorry...


Those are pretty much useless except for shredding leaves.




RPM is increased via Vee belt appears to be 1 to 3 ratio so the main chipper
disc I would estimate runs ~2500 rpm, it is about 12 in diameter and has a
single tooth about 4in long located at about 10 inches along the diameter,
and is guaged to cut at a chipload of about .125 per revolution IIRC so
guessing it's probably processing at ~ 6000 or so sfm.

Do the chips go through the disk? I had a chipper that had either two
or four cutters mounted on a disk with slots in the disk that the
chips went through to get to the hammer mill section. Might have been
better with only one tooth. I moved across country and did not bring
it with me.


After that, the chips fall into what is basically a hammer mill, 4 rows of
with 6 flails each on a drum.... there is also a top hopper that you can use
to shove small dry sticks and green shubs and that kind of **** into...goes
directly to the hammermill...there is a screen under the hammermill that the
finished product falls out of....it's made from 1/4in steel and has ~1in
diameter holes drilled in a 1-1/2in grid pattern.

I might be able to get some pictures if your interested in the actual design
details but....

*--my main point is that it's still not quite as powerfull as I would
like--IIRC it will run 3in diameter green woody branches at a rate of about
5 ft/ min on a good day but at that size material frequently have to stop
feeding in order to keep the engine from bogging down and possibly
stalling.....

I could live with one that only chipped stuff up to an inch and a
half. I do not have much that is bigger than that and anything bigger
I can give to my neighbor that has a outside wood burning furnace.

FWIW, I have a fairly large burn pile I'm going to torch probably tomorrow
and pretty sure I haven't used the chipper in at least 5 years.

Can not burn here legally. Some of my neighbors do burn, but not big
piles and not often.

Oops--it's actually *a "mighty mac"...it's probably rated ~4 x 4 in--sorry
but at quick glance I din't see any model numbers.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...nts/47721d1133...

Again, suggest first try the rental unit, ~40 horsepower......get er done
!!!

--


Good advice, but I am going to ignore it right now.

Dan



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By the way, regarding a fertilizer. What I find is that chicken poo
works absolutely best when it comes to vegetables (technically
fruits), such as tomatoes. Back when I had chickens, I had 8 foot tall
tomato plants, full of tomatoes.

i
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On Jun 3, 5:12*pm, " wrote:
i have cleaned up a good bit of the lot and now have several piles of
yard waste to get rid of. *I would like to chip and shred the stuff
and then rototill it in to some places where the soil could use more
organic matter. *The closest place to dispose of yard waste is a fair
ways away and if I do that I still need to do something to improve the
soil.

So does anyone have plans for a well designed chipper shredder?

Dan


If you are much of a wrench you can probably borrow one in trade for
tuning it up, changing the oil, and returning it freshly sharpened.
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On Jun 4, 9:35*am, beecrofter wrote:

If you are much of a wrench you can probably borrow one in trade for
tuning it up, changing the oil, and returning it freshly sharpened.


Good idea, but I am kind of new to the area and do not know anyone
with a chipper.
That is kind of the same problem with renting. i have not scoped out
where the good rental places are located. I tried to rent a lawn
mover, but could only find a place that rented push mowers. I will be
looking at rental places. Need to rent a ditching machine to put in
subsurface drains. I do not expect to need that more than once.

Dan

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On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 20:06:12 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 3, 9:49*pm, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Why not rent one and put the chips where you want - and roto-till
the results into a compost pile or into the ground.


Martin

I like to build things. Where is the fun in renting?

Dan


Dan, If you get one built and running, please share the result. I run
a corn stalk chopper through the orchard to get most of the prunings.
Then have the kids pull out the oversize stuff. it would be real nice
to have a PTO chipper instead.

Karl


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On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 08:29:57 -0500, Ignoramus5230
wrote:

By the way, regarding a fertilizer. What I find is that chicken poo
works absolutely best when it comes to vegetables (technically
fruits), such as tomatoes. Back when I had chickens, I had 8 foot tall
tomato plants, full of tomatoes.

i


I'll second that. I get a semi load every year. I also get a semi of
turkey litter, not as strong. I grow the best strawberries in the sate
of MN and this is one of the secrets.

BTW, the kids are sprinkling dryed and pelletized chicken poo on the
first year plants as i write this. We put a 2000

Karl




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"Ignoramus5230" wrote in message
...
By the way, regarding a fertilizer. What I find is that chicken poo
works absolutely best when it comes to vegetables (technically
fruits), such as tomatoes. Back when I had chickens, I had 8 foot tall
tomato plants, full of tomatoes.



Tomatoe cultivars can be divided into two basic growth habits, specifically,
"determinate" and "non determinate"

"Determinate" varieties will grow to a fairly predictable height at which
point vertical growth stops......

"Non-determinate varieties will continue to grow indefinately or or at least
until they run out of support, terminal height basically being limited only
by environmental factors with the number one factor usually being how high
you've built your actual tomatoe cages.

--


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On 2011-06-04, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 08:29:57 -0500, Ignoramus5230
wrote:

By the way, regarding a fertilizer. What I find is that chicken poo
works absolutely best when it comes to vegetables (technically
fruits), such as tomatoes. Back when I had chickens, I had 8 foot tall
tomato plants, full of tomatoes.

i


I'll second that. I get a semi load every year. I also get a semi of
turkey litter, not as strong. I grow the best strawberries in the sate
of MN and this is one of the secrets.

BTW, the kids are sprinkling dryed and pelletized chicken poo on the
first year plants as i write this. We put a 2000


Chickens are worth their feed, merely from the fertilizer value.

I actually have chickens this year also (leghorns, a huge mistake). I
will definitely save every bit of litter.

i
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...



five pickup loads of horse manure last fall.


Also, suggest stay away from horse manure--it is fine if you are wanting to
convert raw land into pasture but in the garden there usually will sprout
way too many seeds that weren't killed in passing through the horse's
intestines.





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On Jun 3, 10:15*pm, Gerald Miller wrote:


I use my **** shaker (compost screener) one day per year. The rest of
the time it takes up about 1.5 square feet of floor space in the shed.
IIRC it cost me about $5 to build it.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


Anything that only cost about $5 to build and does not take up much
room sounds interesting. Can I have more details?

Dan

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Default Chipper Shredder plans


"Ignoramus5230" wrote in message
...
On 2011-06-04, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 08:29:57 -0500, Ignoramus5230
wrote:

By the way, regarding a fertilizer. What I find is that chicken poo
works absolutely best when it comes to vegetables (technically
fruits), such as tomatoes. Back when I had chickens, I had 8 foot tall
tomato plants, full of tomatoes.

i


I'll second that. I get a semi load every year. I also get a semi of
turkey litter, not as strong. I grow the best strawberries in the sate
of MN and this is one of the secrets.

BTW, the kids are sprinkling dryed and pelletized chicken poo on the
first year plants as i write this. We put a 2000


Chickens are worth their feed, merely from the fertilizer value.

I actually have chickens this year also (leghorns, a huge mistake). I
will definitely save every bit of litter.


Buff Orphingtons have a pretty good temperament esp if you like letting them
out to wander and forage during the day.

Green chicken manure from a poultry farm smells bad.

Uncontrollable automatic gag reflex bad, in fact.

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On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 11:01:20 -0500, Ignoramus5230
wrote:

On 2011-06-04, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 08:29:57 -0500, Ignoramus5230
wrote:

By the way, regarding a fertilizer. What I find is that chicken poo
works absolutely best when it comes to vegetables (technically
fruits), such as tomatoes. Back when I had chickens, I had 8 foot tall
tomato plants, full of tomatoes.

i


I'll second that. I get a semi load every year. I also get a semi of
turkey litter, not as strong. I grow the best strawberries in the sate
of MN and this is one of the secrets.

BTW, the kids are sprinkling dryed and pelletized chicken poo on the
first year plants as i write this. We put a 2000


Chickens are worth their feed, merely from the fertilizer value.

I actually have chickens this year also (leghorns, a huge mistake). I
will definitely save every bit of litter.


Worm castings are a lot easier to live with.

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
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On 2011-06-04, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Ignoramus5230" wrote in message
...
On 2011-06-04, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 08:29:57 -0500, Ignoramus5230
wrote:

By the way, regarding a fertilizer. What I find is that chicken poo
works absolutely best when it comes to vegetables (technically
fruits), such as tomatoes. Back when I had chickens, I had 8 foot tall
tomato plants, full of tomatoes.

i

I'll second that. I get a semi load every year. I also get a semi of
turkey litter, not as strong. I grow the best strawberries in the sate
of MN and this is one of the secrets.

BTW, the kids are sprinkling dryed and pelletized chicken poo on the
first year plants as i write this. We put a 2000


Chickens are worth their feed, merely from the fertilizer value.

I actually have chickens this year also (leghorns, a huge mistake). I
will definitely save every bit of litter.


Buff Orphingtons have a pretty good temperament esp if you like
letting them out to wander and forage during the day.


I don't.

I had New Hempshire Reds last time, they were awesome, very calm,
friendly, and docile. These Leghorns are very flighty and scaredy.

In addition, they are not quite as hardy as far as cold weather goes.

Green chicken manure from a poultry farm smells bad.

Uncontrollable automatic gag reflex bad, in fact.



I have no problems with that smell, I kept some manure mixed with
water in a bucket, for 3 weeks. It did smell quite a bit, but I am
okay with that.

i
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Default Chipper Shredder plans

Dan
My folks have a NZ made Hansa chipper - http://www.hansaproducts.co.nz/
.. If you want photos and measurements, let me know and I will get info
when I am at the farm next/
IIRC it has a 13hp B&S motor. As I recall it as not cheap, but will eat
trees, the bodies of door-to-door salesmen and anything else that gets
put in the slot.
Geoffm
Auckland
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On Jun 4, 7:03*pm, Geoff M wrote:
Dan
My folks have a NZ made Hansa chipper -http://www.hansaproducts.co.nz/
. If you want photos and measurements, let me know and I will get info
when I am at the farm next/
IIRC it has a 13hp B&S motor. As I recall it as not cheap, but will eat
trees, the bodies of door-to-door salesmen and anything else that gets
put in the slot.
Geoffm
Auckland


I would appreciate some photos especially of how the cutting edge is
attached to the disk. 13 hp sounds like a good compromise between
cost and having enough power.

The invite to come visit is still open. Maureen's sister Anne is
coming this next fall. She usually travels with lots of luggage, but
we might be able to get her to take something back if it is not too
big or heavy. They moved and are now out in the country south of
Auckland.

Dan
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On Sat, 4 Jun 2011 09:09:26 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 3, 10:15*pm, Gerald Miller wrote:


I use my **** shaker (compost screener) one day per year. The rest of
the time it takes up about 1.5 square feet of floor space in the shed.
IIRC it cost me about $5 to build it.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


Anything that only cost about $5 to build and does not take up much
room sounds interesting. Can I have more details?

Dan

Basically a 1 x 2 foot box with expanded metal ($5) mesh bottom
suspended by a chain from one end in a frame. The other end has wooden
pillow blocks riding on a pair of eccentrics mounted on a half inch
shaft. These eccentrics have a larger diameter section concentric
with the shaft which also run in wooden pillow blocks mounted to the
main frame. The eccentrics were turned from 1 1/4" steel trued up and
drilled for the shaft, then offset 1/8" and the centre section turned
down to round (1") and parted into two pieces three inches long. The
pillow blocks are made from 2 x 4 maple from pallet material, grease
nipples (1/4-28) were threaded into drilled and tapped 1" long 3/8"
cap screws into tapped holes in the pillow blocks. A 1" ID washer
was used between the pillow blocks for clearance and to provide
positive longitudinal location. The bores of the pillow blocks are
about 1/32" oversize for free rotation and chassis lube liberally
applied. A 1/3 HP motor belted to the eccentric shaft turns it at
about 900 RPM. Both frames are made from scrap 2 x 4 cross bolted with
1/4" all-thread. The chain suspended end of the screen box hangs about
an inch bellow the driven end.
In use, I set the shaker on saw horses over the wheel barrow and put
three or four 3" stones on the screen to break up lumps then toss in
shovels full of compost and stir it around with a garden trowel and
pick out roots and lumps for further composting. I also mix in soil
from my pile of surplus materials from edge trimming etc.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


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On Jun 4, 10:13*pm, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Sat, 4 Jun 2011 09:09:26 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Jun 3, 10:15*pm, Gerald Miller wrote:


I use my **** shaker (compost screener) one day per year. The rest of
the time it takes up about 1.5 square feet of floor space in the shed.
IIRC it cost me about $5 to build it.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


Anything that only cost about $5 to build and does not take up much
room sounds interesting. *Can I *have more details?


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Dan


Basically a 1 x 2 foot box with expanded metal ($5) mesh bottom
suspended by a chain from one end in a frame. The other end has wooden
pillow blocks riding on a pair of eccentrics mounted on a half inch
shaft. These eccentrics have a larger *diameter section concentric
with the shaft which also run in wooden pillow blocks mounted to the
main frame. The eccentrics were turned from 1 1/4" steel trued up and
drilled for the shaft, then offset 1/8" and the centre section turned
down to round (1") and parted into two pieces three inches long. The
pillow blocks are made from 2 x 4 maple from pallet material, grease
nipples (1/4-28) were threaded into drilled and tapped 1" long 3/8"
cap screws into tapped holes in the pillow blocks. A *1" ID *washer
was used between the pillow blocks for clearance and to provide
positive longitudinal location. The bores of the pillow blocks are
about 1/32" oversize for free rotation and chassis lube liberally
applied. A 1/3 HP motor belted to the eccentric shaft turns it at
about 900 RPM. Both frames are made from scrap 2 x 4 cross bolted with
1/4" all-thread. The chain suspended end of the screen box hangs about
an inch bellow the driven end.
In use, I set the shaker on saw horses over the wheel barrow and put
three or four 3" stones on the screen to break up lumps then toss in
shovels full of compost and stir it around with a garden trowel and
pick out roots and lumps for further composting. I also mix in soil
from my pile of surplus materials from edge trimming etc.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


Sounds like a sound design. I made something somewhat similar for
cleaning concrete off bricks. Used the crankshaft out of a Briggs and
Stratton engine and a connecting rod with hardwood bearing surface.
Had some expanded metal that scraped the brick. It was not much
faster than cleaning bricks by hand, but a lot less work.
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On Sat, 4 Jun 2011 06:02:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 4, 1:52*am, Rich Grise wrote:

What does your buy vs. build chart look like so far? Want me to
design one for you? ;-P

Cheers!
Rich


So far my build vs buy chart looks like:

Build
Buy
Get to play designer Spend
money
Get to weld
Get to go to industrial junk yards
Get to tear apart and fix problems
Get to use that thing I got and
did not know what it was.
Get sympathy when injured

Dan

Get to do something with a home built that a rental could do in less
than a quarter of the time at one tenth of the effort but with twenty
times the satisfaction!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
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The Bedair chipper looks to be a fairly rugged fabrication.

This Steve Bedair does very good executions of very well-thought-out
designs. I'm familiar with his 9x20 lathe improvements from years ago.
http://www.bedair.org/9x20camlock/9x20project.html

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..........


"Steve W." wrote in message
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wrote:

http://www.bedair.org/Projects/chipper1.html

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On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 23:02:24 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

wrote:
i have cleaned up a good bit of the lot and now have several piles of
yard waste to get rid of. I would like to chip and shred the stuff
and then rototill it in to some places where the soil could use more
organic matter. The closest place to dispose of yard waste is a fair
ways away and if I do that I still need to do something to improve the
soil.

So does anyone have plans for a well designed chipper shredder?


Dan



http://www.bedair.org/Projects/chipper1.html


WOW, impressive project this fella did.

Karl

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On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 23:02:24 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

wrote:
i have cleaned up a good bit of the lot and now have several piles of
yard waste to get rid of. I would like to chip and shred the stuff
and then rototill it in to some places where the soil could use more
organic matter. The closest place to dispose of yard waste is a fair
ways away and if I do that I still need to do something to improve the
soil.

So does anyone have plans for a well designed chipper shredder?

http://www.bedair.org/Projects/chipper1.html


Wow, Mr. Bedair does good work. Nice project, nice pages.

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
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On Jun 4, 10:35*pm, Gerald Miller wrote:
...
Get to do something with a home built that a rental could do in less
than a quarter of the time at one tenth of the effort but with twenty
times the satisfaction!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada-


As much as I like building machines, when I have brush and branches to
cut up I use a tall chopping block and a hatchet or machete. Once the
branches have been reduced to mostly straight or Y pieces they pile
compactly enough on the compost heap.

jsw
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