Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default compressor tank repair

OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.
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Default compressor tank repair

On 2010-12-04, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.


It may be a crack in steel. I had a compressor tank that had such a
crack. You need to examine it closely.

i
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Default compressor tank repair


Ignoramus4371 wrote:

On 2010-12-04, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.


It may be a crack in steel. I had a compressor tank that had such a
crack. You need to examine it closely.

i


Since those tanks normally have a big 2" port on the side, you can
remove the fittings from there and inspect inside with an inspection
mirror and a flashlight.

Definitely recommend carefully removing the paint from a good area
around the leak for a close inspection for cracks or other issues.

If you can, try tapping to something like 1/8" NPT and put in a tapered
plug with some Rectorseal and skip any heating process like
welding/brazing/soldering.
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Default compressor tank repair

Wire brush. JB Weld.

Keep in mind, I've not repaired an air tank yet, and I may well be
mistaken. You could also pilot hole, and then put in a self drilling
screw with some kind of washer (nylon? Rubber?).

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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..


"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on
CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the
edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to
fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.


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Default compressor tank repair


RBnDFW wrote:

OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.


Important things to keep in mind:

- Inspect carefully for cracks

- Avoid any heating process that could change the metal strength

- The force on small holes / plugs is small, so you don't need welded or
brazed connections. Even a 1/2" dia plug at 120 PSI is only about 25#
force.

- Pressure tanks are not magic, so if you inspect it and find it is just
a manufacturing flaw in the weld, and you repair it without doing
anything to compromise tank strength it should be fine.


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On 12/4/2010 8:13 AM, Ignoramus4371 wrote:
On 2010-12-04, wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.


It may be a crack in steel. I had a compressor tank that had such a
crack. You need to examine it closely.

i


Well, it's right on a weld where the bottom bung is attached.
I wish i still had that tank I sold you

I have a friend who is an ace welder with aircraft certs. I may run it
by his place and see what he thinks
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On 2010-12-04, RBnDFW wrote:
On 12/4/2010 8:13 AM, Ignoramus4371 wrote:
On 2010-12-04, wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.


It may be a crack in steel. I had a compressor tank that had such a
crack. You need to examine it closely.

i


Well, it's right on a weld where the bottom bung is attached.
I wish i still had that tank I sold you


The tank you sold me, was used to replace the tank with the above
mentioned crack. ;-)

I have a friend who is an ace welder with aircraft certs. I may run it
by his place and see what he thinks


It should be easy.
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Default compressor tank repair


"Stormin Mormon"
Wire brush. JB Weld.


Use jb quik, for those times when you're in a
hurry and can't fix it right. Remember to criss
cross some duct tape over it too, eih?



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On Dec 4, 11:07*am, RBnDFW wrote:
...

There are several products for preserving the interiors of car doors
etc that might stop other weld defects from rusting through, or plug
them.

jsw
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Pete C. wrote:

- Inspect carefully for cracks


Everyone agrees on that, but how? If it was the hull of a sub or a reactor
vessel they would use xrays. There must be a good reason for that, so
something more than a magnifying glass might be advisable. Maybe some
chemical would make a crack more visible under a UV light?


--

Reply in group, but if emailing add one more
zero, and remove the last word.




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Tom Del Rosso wrote:

Pete C. wrote:

- Inspect carefully for cracks


Everyone agrees on that, but how? If it was the hull of a sub or a reactor
vessel they would use xrays. There must be a good reason for that, so
something more than a magnifying glass might be advisable. Maybe some
chemical would make a crack more visible under a UV light?


Good 'ol Magna-flux would work, but I think just cleaning the paint in
the area and inspecting with a magnifying glass and good lighting would
do. Combined with a visual inspection inside the tank via the 2" side
port that should give reasonable confidence that it really is just one
porous spot in the weld.
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On Dec 4, 2:33*pm, "Tom Del Rosso" wrote:
Pete C. wrote:

- Inspect carefully for cracks


Everyone agrees on that, but how? *If it was the hull of a sub or a reactor
vessel they would use xrays. *There must be a good reason for that, so
something more than a magnifying glass might be advisable. *Maybe some
chemical would make a crack more visible under a UV light?


Compressed air and soap, just like a tire.

jsw
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Tom Del Rosso wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Sat, 4 Dec 2010 14:33:03 -0500:

Pete C. wrote:

- Inspect carefully for cracks


Everyone agrees on that, but how?


Clean off all the paint and stuff, then apply a little solvent. Wipe
dry with a paper towel or clean cloth. A crack can show up when the
solvent in the crack wicks out to the dry surface.

--

Dan H.
northshore MA.
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I'd clean with a wire brush and weld it. It was welded to begin with.

Bob
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Some silver wire in the duct tape, to help keep vampires at bay?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon"
Wire brush. JB Weld.


Use jb quik, for those times when you're in a
hurry and can't fix it right. Remember to criss
cross some duct tape over it too, eih?






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Tom Del Rosso wrote:
Pete C. wrote:

- Inspect carefully for cracks


Everyone agrees on that, but how? If it was the hull of a sub or a
reactor
vessel they would use xrays. There must be a good reason for that, so
something more than a magnifying glass might be advisable. Maybe some
chemical would make a crack more visible under a UV light?

Yes there is; go to a welding supply place - they've got some kind of
penetrant that you smear on, let it dry, and use another chemical to
"develop" it, and the cracks show up red.

Look for Dynaflux PWW Penetrant; according to this can here, you also need
their cleaner and developer, but the guy at the welding supply place should
be able to fix you right up.

And you don't even need UV. :-)

You might have to remove all the paint, but that should be fun too - I
heard about a guy who washed his lawnmower with Tide, and the paint all
just fell off. ;-)

Good Luck!
Rich

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On Dec 4, 4:33*pm, (dan) wrote:
Tom Del Rosso wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking *on Sat, 4 Dec 2010 14:33:03 -0500:

Pete C. wrote:


- Inspect carefully for cracks


Everyone agrees on that, but how?


Clean off all the paint and stuff, then apply a little solvent. *Wipe
dry with a paper towel or clean cloth. *A crack can show up when the
solvent in the crack wicks out to the dry surface.

--

Dan H.
northshore MA.


Kerosine works well. Possibly it wasn't a crack, but slag in the
overlap at the end of the weld.

jsw
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shhhh..... it's supposed to be a secret...... ;))

"Stormin Mormon"
Some silver wire in the duct tape, to help keep
vampires at bay?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
.



"Phil Kangas" wrote in message

"Stormin Mormon"
Wire brush. JB Weld.


Use jb quik, for those times when you're in a
hurry and can't fix it right. Remember to criss
cross some duct tape over it too, eih?







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"Phil Kangas" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon"
Wire brush. JB Weld.


Use jb quik, for those times when you're in a
hurry and can't fix it right. Remember to criss
cross some duct tape over it too, eih?

Yep----the nice, shiny silver colored stuff---not the red or black type.

You know---the "handymans's secret weapon". :-)

H

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"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Some silver wire in the duct tape, to help keep vampires at bay?


For sure! And a string of garlic.

H



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On Dec 5, 4:06*am, "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message

...

Some silver wire in the duct tape, to help keep vampires at bay?


For sure! *And a string of garlic.

H


The garlic goes inside the tank to spice up the compressed air.

jsw
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On 12/4/2010 7:59 AM, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.



thanks for all the good input.

Despite the duct tape jokes, I think I'm going to try JB weld first. No
sense adding heat if I don't need to.
I intend to remove that big plug in the bottom first. that will let
me inspect the area with an inspection mirror. If it looks clean I'll
rough it up and use some JB putty on the inside. Then invert the tank
and apply JB Weld on the outside.

I suspect that should work fine for a long time. If not, I'll take it to
my welder friend.

removing the plug is a big "if". It's about 2.5" across the flats, maybe
bigger. The flats are narrow, so it would be hard to grip with a wrench
or pipe wrench. I do not have a socket that big. If i can't get it off,
welding/brazing may move to the top.
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"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...
On 12/4/2010 7:59 AM, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt
compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he
couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure
enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area
adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't
think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and
there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld.
Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever
diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.



thanks for all the good input.

Despite the duct tape jokes, I think I'm going
to try JB weld first. No sense adding heat if I
don't need to.
I intend to remove that big plug in the
bottom first. that will let me inspect the area
with an inspection mirror. If it looks clean
I'll rough it up and use some JB putty on the
inside. Then invert the tank and apply JB Weld
on the outside.

I suspect that should work fine for a long time.
If not, I'll take it to my welder friend.

removing the plug is a big "if". It's about 2.5"
across the flats, maybe bigger. The flats are
narrow, so it would be hard to grip with a
wrench or pipe wrench. I do not have a socket
that big. If i can't get it off, welding/brazing
may move to the top.


This is exactly the reason I hate jbweld so much.
Guys like you
smear it all over the place pushing it into tight
spots that are
hard to clean out and then when it fails, as it
will, you bring it
to a weldor to repair. That stuff produces the
most obnoxious
toxic fumes you'll ever come across! You're only
going to ****
off the welder you bring it to. Don't use jb, weld
it now and be
done with it!!!!!!
I'll say the same thing for brakeclean in the
spray can. If you
can smell the fumes when you are welding, STOP!
Clear the
air and get rid of the fumes. I've been in shops
where it was
being used twenty feet away and it was still a
problem. The UV
rays from the weld arc have an affect on the fumes
producing
a poisonous gas that you don't want to be around.
Think, be
careful out there, eih? phil k.



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On Sun, 5 Dec 2010 12:04:25 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...
On 12/4/2010 7:59 AM, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt
compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he
couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure
enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area
adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't
think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and
there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld.
Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever
diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.



thanks for all the good input.

Despite the duct tape jokes, I think I'm going
to try JB weld first. No sense adding heat if I
don't need to.
I intend to remove that big plug in the
bottom first. that will let me inspect the area
with an inspection mirror. If it looks clean
I'll rough it up and use some JB putty on the
inside. Then invert the tank and apply JB Weld
on the outside.

I suspect that should work fine for a long time.
If not, I'll take it to my welder friend.

removing the plug is a big "if". It's about 2.5"
across the flats, maybe bigger. The flats are
narrow, so it would be hard to grip with a
wrench or pipe wrench. I do not have a socket
that big. If i can't get it off, welding/brazing
may move to the top.


This is exactly the reason I hate jbweld so much.
Guys like you
smear it all over the place pushing it into tight
spots that are
hard to clean out and then when it fails, as it
will, you bring it
to a weldor to repair. That stuff produces the
most obnoxious
toxic fumes you'll ever come across! You're only
going to ****
off the welder you bring it to. Don't use jb, weld
it now and be
done with it!!!!!!


If the leak is in fact weld porosity, wicking grade Loctite 290 is a
more appropriate noxious goo. See p.12 of this doc:
www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT4680.pdf


I'll say the same thing for brakeclean in the
spray can. If you
can smell the fumes when you are welding, STOP!
Clear the
air and get rid of the fumes. I've been in shops
where it was
being used twenty feet away and it was still a
problem. The UV
rays from the weld arc have an affect on the fumes
producing
a poisonous gas that you don't want to be around.
Think, be
careful out there, eih? phil k.


That reminds me of when I had a shop near the fish wharves in Bass
Harbor ME. I'd cringe whenever the bait hauler from the Swan's Island
lobster co-op would walk in looking to have some welding done on his
aluminum bodied bait truck. Burning fish gurry is not as dangerous
phosgene, but it undoubtedly smells worse.

--
Ned Simmons
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Ned Simmons wrote:
On Sun, 5 Dec 2010 12:04:25 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...

On 12/4/2010 7:59 AM, RBnDFW wrote:

OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt
compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he
couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure
enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area
adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't
think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and
there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld.
Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever
diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.

thanks for all the good input.

Despite the duct tape jokes, I think I'm going
to try JB weld first. No sense adding heat if I
don't need to.
I intend to remove that big plug in the
bottom first. that will let me inspect the area
with an inspection mirror. If it looks clean
I'll rough it up and use some JB putty on the
inside. Then invert the tank and apply JB Weld
on the outside.

I suspect that should work fine for a long time.
If not, I'll take it to my welder friend.

removing the plug is a big "if". It's about 2.5"
across the flats, maybe bigger. The flats are
narrow, so it would be hard to grip with a
wrench or pipe wrench. I do not have a socket
that big. If i can't get it off, welding/brazing
may move to the top.

This is exactly the reason I hate jbweld so much.
Guys like you
smear it all over the place pushing it into tight
spots that are
hard to clean out and then when it fails, as it
will, you bring it
to a weldor to repair. That stuff produces the
most obnoxious
toxic fumes you'll ever come across! You're only
going to ****
off the welder you bring it to. Don't use jb, weld
it now and be
done with it!!!!!!


If the leak is in fact weld porosity, wicking grade Loctite 290 is a
more appropriate noxious goo. See p.12 of this doc:
www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT4680.pdf



I'll say the same thing for brakeclean in the
spray can. If you
can smell the fumes when you are welding, STOP!
Clear the
air and get rid of the fumes. I've been in shops
where it was
being used twenty feet away and it was still a
problem. The UV
rays from the weld arc have an affect on the fumes
producing
a poisonous gas that you don't want to be around.
Think, be
careful out there, eih? phil k.


That reminds me of when I had a shop near the fish wharves in Bass
Harbor ME. I'd cringe whenever the bait hauler from the Swan's Island
lobster co-op would walk in looking to have some welding done on his
aluminum bodied bait truck. Burning fish gurry is not as dangerous
phosgene, but it undoubtedly smells worse.


I can't imagine that what I've smelt is in the same league but as a
programmer I had to do some work with a PC that had been used to monitor
pigs in their native sty environment, that PC was imbued with the smell
of pig and as soon as you got near it you could smell them. I still like
bacon, pork, pigs liver etc though.


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On Dec 4, 7:20*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder


For slightly tighter fit, tap with a 1/8" NPT tap
and use a pipe-taper steel plug, Might not need
to braze.
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Default compressor tank repair

Phil Kangas wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Sun, 5 Dec 2010 12:04:25 -0500:

I'll say the same thing for brakeclean in the
spray can. If you
can smell the fumes when you are welding, STOP!
Clear the
air and get rid of the fumes. I've been in shops
where it was
being used twenty feet away and it was still a
problem. The UV
rays from the weld arc have an affect on the fumes
producing
a poisonous gas that you don't want to be around.
Think, be
careful out there, eih? phil k.


http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.
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Default compressor tank repair

On Sat, 04 Dec 2010 09:55:04 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


RBnDFW wrote:

OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.


Important things to keep in mind:

- Inspect carefully for cracks

- Avoid any heating process that could change the metal strength

- The force on small holes / plugs is small, so you don't need welded or
brazed connections. Even a 1/2" dia plug at 120 PSI is only about 25#
force.

- Pressure tanks are not magic, so if you inspect it and find it is just
a manufacturing flaw in the weld, and you repair it without doing
anything to compromise tank strength it should be fine.

It was welded at the factory, and not heat treated - so welding is
the correct repair. Have an experienced welder do the job - and it
needs to be CLEAN first.
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Default compressor tank repair

On Sun, 05 Dec 2010 21:40:34 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

Ned Simmons wrote:
On Sun, 5 Dec 2010 12:04:25 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...

On 12/4/2010 7:59 AM, RBnDFW wrote:

OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt
compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he
couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure
enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area
adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't
think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and
there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld.
Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever
diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.

thanks for all the good input.

Despite the duct tape jokes, I think I'm going
to try JB weld first. No sense adding heat if I
don't need to.
I intend to remove that big plug in the
bottom first. that will let me inspect the area
with an inspection mirror. If it looks clean
I'll rough it up and use some JB putty on the
inside. Then invert the tank and apply JB Weld
on the outside.

I suspect that should work fine for a long time.
If not, I'll take it to my welder friend.

removing the plug is a big "if". It's about 2.5"
across the flats, maybe bigger. The flats are
narrow, so it would be hard to grip with a
wrench or pipe wrench. I do not have a socket
that big. If i can't get it off, welding/brazing
may move to the top.

This is exactly the reason I hate jbweld so much.
Guys like you
smear it all over the place pushing it into tight
spots that are
hard to clean out and then when it fails, as it
will, you bring it
to a weldor to repair. That stuff produces the
most obnoxious
toxic fumes you'll ever come across! You're only
going to ****
off the welder you bring it to. Don't use jb, weld
it now and be
done with it!!!!!!


If the leak is in fact weld porosity, wicking grade Loctite 290 is a
more appropriate noxious goo. See p.12 of this doc:
www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT4680.pdf



I'll say the same thing for brakeclean in the
spray can. If you
can smell the fumes when you are welding, STOP!
Clear the
air and get rid of the fumes. I've been in shops
where it was
being used twenty feet away and it was still a
problem. The UV
rays from the weld arc have an affect on the fumes
producing
a poisonous gas that you don't want to be around.
Think, be
careful out there, eih? phil k.


That reminds me of when I had a shop near the fish wharves in Bass
Harbor ME. I'd cringe whenever the bait hauler from the Swan's Island
lobster co-op would walk in looking to have some welding done on his
aluminum bodied bait truck. Burning fish gurry is not as dangerous
phosgene, but it undoubtedly smells worse.


I can't imagine that what I've smelt is in the same league but as a
programmer I had to do some work with a PC that had been used to monitor
pigs in their native sty environment, that PC was imbued with the smell
of pig and as soon as you got near it you could smell them. I still like
bacon, pork, pigs liver etc though.

Try welding the chain on a manure spreader!!!
  #30   Report Post  
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Default compressor tank repair


RBnDFW wrote:

OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.



If it looks brand new I would contact whoever made the tank and
complain. They have to meet safety standards and a tank with hole
doesn't.


--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!


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Posts: 2,001
Default compressor tank repair

You'll likely have a difficult time trying to remove the big hex bushings
from factory-assembled air compressor tanks.
If you see orange sealer used on the threads, that stuff won't just release
with the limited amount of torque that you can apply.

When I couldn't get one of the large hex bushings to break free with a 3/4"
drive breaker bar and socket, with a cheater pipe and a helper, I decided to
cut the bushing out.
BTW, this was after the bushing had been heated, soaked with ATF/lacquer
thinner, naptha, brake fluid and maybe a couple of other solvents.

I used a saber saw with a coarse blade to cut parallel, not radial slits
from the center hole (tank drain valve) outward, while being careful not to
nick the threads of the tank adapter flange.

After four cuts, two parallel-opposed sections could be pried out of the
hole, allowing the semi-circles to be tapped loose with a chisel.

You would be further ahead to have the leak brazed, IMO, which should last
more than one lifetime, if the tank doesn't rust out elsewhere first.

Drilling and jamming something into the hole might risk causing the adapter
flange to break.

Miracle cures in a tube etc, are far less likely to make a permanent repair.

--
WB
..........


"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain bung
at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix
it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.


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Posts: 126
Default compressor tank repair

On 12/4/2010 11:29 PM, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.




Take it to a professional welder , one that is certified to weld
pressure vessels .
He will grind out the offending weld and re-weld it to the correct standard.
Tooling around with pressure vessels is not for the non professional.
They can be very dangerous when they rupture.

--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."


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Posts: 681
Default compressor tank repair

On 12/5/2010 11:09 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

RBnDFW wrote:

OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.



If it looks brand new I would contact whoever made the tank and
complain. They have to meet safety standards and a tank with hole
doesn't.


I've considered that. I may yet.


--
I can see 2012 from my front porch
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Posts: 681
Default compressor tank repair

On 12/5/2010 3:29 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Sun, 5 Dec 2010 12:04:25 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On 12/4/2010 7:59 AM, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt
compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he
couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure
enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area
adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't
think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and
there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld.
Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever
diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.


thanks for all the good input.

Despite the duct tape jokes, I think I'm going
to try JB weld first. No sense adding heat if I
don't need to.
I intend to remove that big plug in the
bottom first. that will let me inspect the area
with an inspection mirror. If it looks clean
I'll rough it up and use some JB putty on the
inside. Then invert the tank and apply JB Weld
on the outside.

I suspect that should work fine for a long time.
If not, I'll take it to my welder friend.

removing the plug is a big "if". It's about 2.5"
across the flats, maybe bigger. The flats are
narrow, so it would be hard to grip with a
wrench or pipe wrench. I do not have a socket
that big. If i can't get it off, welding/brazing
may move to the top.


This is exactly the reason I hate jbweld so much.
Guys like you
smear it all over the place pushing it into tight
spots that are
hard to clean out and then when it fails, as it
will, you bring it
to a weldor to repair. That stuff produces the
most obnoxious
toxic fumes you'll ever come across! You're only
going to ****
off the welder you bring it to. Don't use jb, weld
it now and be
done with it!!!!!!


If the leak is in fact weld porosity, wicking grade Loctite 290 is a
more appropriate noxious goo. See p.12 of this doc:
www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT4680.pdf


Well that is interesting. I had no idea it would be good with pressure.
I went with JB Weld. It was the only good no-heat choice. If it doesn't
work, I haven't made it any worse.
Hit it with a grinder to remove the paint, and give the surface some
tooth. I inverted the compressor to make the holed area almost horizontal.
Used the slow-cure original JBW product. Spread some on, then stuck a
small metal disc (actually a magnet) over the hole, then piled on more
JBW over an area the size of a quarter. Left it to cure for several
days. I'll set it up, give the oil time to drain back down, then start
it up and see if it holds.

If not, it's off to the welder.

Results in a new days.
Thanks for all the input.


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Default compressor tank repair

On Dec 6, 3:23*am, "Kevin(Bluey)" wrote:
On 12/4/2010 11:29 PM, RBnDFW wrote:





OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.


So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix it.


Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder


Better suggestions welcome.


Take it to a professional welder , one that is certified to weld
pressure vessels .
He will grind out the offending weld and re-weld it to the correct standard.
Tooling around with pressure vessels is not for the non professional.
They can be very dangerous when they rupture.

--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I agree.

If he doesn't, I hope he posts his address so I can stay out of that
shop.

TMT
  #37   Report Post  
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Default compressor tank repair

On Dec 7, 4:54*pm, RBnDFW wrote:
On 12/5/2010 3:29 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:





On Sun, 5 Dec 2010 12:04:25 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
*wrote:


*wrote in message
...
On 12/4/2010 7:59 AM, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt
compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he
couldn't find it.


So I got it home powered it up, and sure
enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area
adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't
think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and
there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld.
Anyway, I'd like to fix it.


Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever
diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder


Better suggestions welcome.


thanks for all the good input.


Despite the duct tape jokes, I think I'm going
to try JB weld first. No sense adding heat if I
don't need to.
* *I intend to remove that *big plug in the
bottom first. that will let me inspect the area
with an inspection mirror. If it looks clean
I'll rough it up and use some JB putty on the
inside. Then invert the tank and apply JB Weld
on the outside.


I suspect that should work fine for a long time.
If not, I'll take it to my welder friend.


removing the plug is a big "if". It's about 2.5"
across the flats, maybe bigger. The flats are
narrow, so it would be hard to grip with a
wrench or pipe wrench. I do not have a socket
that big. If i can't get it off, welding/brazing
may move to the top.


This is exactly the reason I hate jbweld so much.
Guys like you
smear it all over the place pushing it into tight
spots that are
hard to clean out and then when it fails, as it
will, you bring it
to a weldor to repair. That stuff produces the
most obnoxious
toxic fumes you'll ever come across! You're only
going to ****
off the welder you bring it to. Don't use jb, weld
it now and be
done with it!!!!!!


If the leak is in fact weld porosity, wicking grade Loctite 290 is a
more appropriate noxious goo. See p.12 of this doc:
www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT4680.pdf


Well that is interesting. I had no idea it would be good with pressure.
I went with JB Weld. It was the only good no-heat choice. If it doesn't
work, I haven't made it any worse.
Hit it with a grinder to remove the paint, and give the surface some
tooth. *I inverted the compressor to make the holed area almost horizontal.
Used the slow-cure original JBW product. Spread some on, then stuck a
small metal disc (actually a magnet) over the hole, then piled on more
JBW over an area the size of a quarter. Left it to cure for several
days. I'll set it up, give the oil time to drain back down, then start
it up and see if it holds.

If not, *it's off to the welder.

Results in a new days.
Thanks for all the input.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


You do realize that if someone is injured by this pressure vessel, you
are now finacially liable.

TMT
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Too_Many_Tools wrote:
On Dec 7, 4:54*pm, RBnDFW wrote:

If not, *it's off to the welder.

Results in a new days.
Thanks for all the input.- Hide quoted text -


You do realize that if someone is injured by this pressure vessel, you
are now finacially liable.

Hydrostatic test.

Cheers!
Rich

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On 12/7/2010 8:44 PM, Rich Grise wrote:
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
On Dec 7, 4:54 pm, wrote:

If not, it's off to the welder.

Results in a new days.
Thanks for all the input.- Hide quoted text -


You do realize that if someone is injured by this pressure vessel, you
are now finacially liable.

Hydrostatic test.


It went full pressure until the switch shut it off.
Could not hear the leak until then.
I'm confident it will be fine.
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On 12/5/2010 5:10 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Dec 4, 7:20 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder


For slightly tighter fit, tap with a 1/8" NPT tap
and use a pipe-taper steel plug, Might not need
to braze.


Since it's on a joint between the steel tank and (cast steel?) bung, I
decided not to change anything by drilling, tapping, or even heat.
This is a small hole, roughly a flat triangle, with less than 1/8" total
area.
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