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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and
gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? i |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On Sat, 29 May 2010 23:34:30 -0500, Ignoramus6711
wrote: Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? The recommended tightening torque for a 1/2-13 alloy SHCS is 120 ft*lb. I wouldn't be concerned about exceeding that by quite bit to remove the screw. I don't understand the point of the hex wrench welded to the pipe -- use the breaker bar. -- Ned Simmons |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On Sat, 29 May 2010 23:34:30 -0500, Ignoramus6711
wrote: Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? i If you bust the head...its not a big deal. They tend to shear at the bolt, not the head body. And you are going to need a pretty good sized pipe or breaker bar. Got an impact..set it to tighten..tighten for a couple seconds, then back it out. Good luck. Gunner -- "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
"Ignoramus6711" wrote in message
... Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? Kroil, PB Blaster. Build a little dam around the head to form a resevoir, let it soak overnight. Can make a big diff. Also heat. -- EA i |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On May 30, 2:34*pm, Ignoramus6711
wrote: Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. * * * * * *-. *(L key) * *pipe * * | ============|= * * * * * * ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? i Impact Driver? - its whats used here traditionally for such jobs. And keep on spraying it everyday with inox or whatever... Dont know if you could get a 3/8th hex fitting for the impact driver, maybe, maybe not. (ie, no idea) Andrew VK3BFA. |
#6
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Ansgst sez:
"Kroil, PB Blaster. Build a little dam around the head to form a resevoir, let it soak overnight. Can make a big diff." Good advice! Angst has described the proverbial "tinker's dam" made from clay or such. Bob Swinney |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
"Ignoramus6711" wrote in message
... Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? Hit them with kroil and let set for an hour. Then try an impact at a low setting for an extended period. Also as Gunner suggested you might try tightening slightly and then loosening... at a low setting on your impact. |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Things have helped me in some what similar situations.
1) Use a wrench like open end or crescent. On the allen wrench, right next to the cap head. Pull on the wrench and the allen at the same time. 2) Heat. Use a torch on the female threads. Might not be practical. 3) Get an allen tip, and then use impact wrench. For whatever reason, impact wrenches work. Not the "hit it with a hammer" type. This kind: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...nch-45252.html 4) On GM brake pins, I've had to cut the head with a dremel, to make the reverse of the ski slope head you seen in public bathrooms. And then beat it out with hammer, cold chisel, and lots of heat. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Ignoramus6711" wrote in message ... Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? i |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Ignoramus6711 wrote:
Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? i The first thing on my agenda, is to cut off a pc of the hex wrench that fits--let it stick up a half inch or so---get it's attention with a 2lb shop hammer---this compresses the rust under the head & the threads--you can try the impact now, if no results then soak..Jerry |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On 05/29/2010 10:58 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
lid wrote in message ... Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? Kroil, PB Blaster. Build a little dam around the head to form a resevoir, let it soak overnight. Can make a big diff. Also heat. Thumping the head of the bolt with a hammer may help to break the rust -- this is trying to achieve the same thing that Gunner is recommending with his suggestion to tighten with an impact wrench and then back it out. I'd thump it hard with a little hammer -- 1 or 2 pounds -- not a big hammer. If you want to move a bit of metal a long way, thump it hard with a little hammer. If you want to move a lot of metal a little bit, thump it softly with a big hammer. You've got a little bit of metal that you want to make sure to move... -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On 05/29/2010 09:34 PM, Ignoramus6711 wrote:
Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? i Heat, cool, apply penetrating oil and wait, bang on it as you torque on it. Repeat. I've never done the heating thing on a heat-treated screw -- with cruddy old grade 3 bolts or equivalent it often helps a _lot_ to get the bolt up to red or even orange heat. Basically, rust is strong, but rust is brittle. If you can break the rust that's holding it in there, then it'll come right out. All the temperature cycling and beating on it and impact wrench stuff is to break the rust. Penetrating oil weakens the rust and keeps it from reforming bonds (does anyone know why?) so not only will it help directly, but it also helps that if the rust particles are all surrounded by penetrant when you break them, they'll stay broken. With old cars, sometimes the best thing to do with a stuck bolt is to twist the head off, get the part that it's holding down off, then figure out what to do with the stub. That's a pretty extreme solution, though -- usually the above is what you tell yourself after you torque on it and feel that sick feeling of metal giving way. If I were in your shoes and I stripped out the socket in the bolt, I wouldn't hesitate to arc weld a right-sized bolt in there -- that'll both give you plenty of meat to get a wrench on, and it'll give you some pretty extreme temperature cycling on the bolt you're trying to get out. -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
You can usually rotate an over-torqued/stripped SHCS with an air
hammer. Sharpen a chisle blade, hold the corner of it at an off-center drive angle and drive the cap CC. JR Dweller in the cellar On Sat, 29 May 2010 23:34:30 -0500, Ignoramus6711 wrote: Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? i |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Ignoramus6711 wrote:
Any comments? It has been 6 hours. Did you try anything that was suggested? Worse comes to worse, you can drill a shcs out. Since my employer uses a lot of carbide twist drills, I put an edge on one from the carbide scrap bucket and use that with a hand drill. I often break them or chip them, but I just grab another and keep going. Once the head is off, the remaining portion tends to be finger tight. Wes |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
JR North fired this volley in
: I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Iggy, those come out. Soak them a couple of days in Kroil or whatever. Use impact-rated hex bits. Support the head in case you break the bolts. If they all break, it'll be easy enough to get the stubs out. You just don't want the head tipping over unexpectedly. Putting a pipe near the vertical section of an "L" key won't keep it from twisting... Same screws, same arrangement on my R2E4. LLoyd |
#15
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley in
. 3.70: Use impact-rated hex bits. Support the head in case you break the bolts. If they all break, it'll be easy enough to get the stubs out. You just don't want the head tipping over unexpectedly. I forgot to say, "but they won't break... the hex bit will break first" LLoyd |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Ignoramus6711 wrote:
Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? i I would not weld the allen wrench. YOu will anneal it causing it to bend. Just slip a pipe over it and pull. You will break the allen wrench before the bolt will snap. Don't hit the bolt with a hammer directly on the top or you will peen in the hex. If you want to hit it cut a small length off your allen wrench and put that in and then hit that. If you apply heat put the heat on the casting but not too much or there is a slight chance it could crack from heat stress. It is possible that there was locktite applied to the bolts. Heat will help release the locktite. A breaker bar and a allen head driver will also work but make sure it is a good quality tool (a life time warrenty helps). Impact wrenches suck for taking off bolts unless you have a large air supply and something that puts out at least 350 ft.lb. Don't be afraid of breaking off the head of the bolt. If it ever did break you just put a larger nut over the stub and weld it onto the stub. Two things will happen, you will have a good grip on the stud, and the heat from welding will loosen the grip of the stud in the thread and it will turn out easily after it cools. If you break your allen wrench I have a case of 3/8 of them made before there were china imports. I got them at an auction 15 years ago. Its one of the most common sizes on larger machines. John |
#17
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Impact wrench with socket with 3/8" mounted in it. Standard stuff
in some sets. But a 3/8" with a hex key cut off. Impact is like a black/orange hammer with shot in it... Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net "Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ On 5/29/2010 11:34 PM, Ignoramus6711 wrote: Sorry for a bunch of posts at once. I worked all day long (almost) and gave 1500 lbs of old junk to a scrapper. Never had this problem before and I REALLY do not want to screw up. The head of the Bridgeport CNC mill is attached to the turret with four socket head cap screws, probably 1/2". They have a 3/8" hex hole. All my attempts to unscrew them failed. I used a nice Unbrako L shaped key. Cannot do it without leverage. With leverage (pipe) the key twists so much, that I really do not want to push my luck. I made a tool today from one 3/8" L shaped key: I drilled a perpendicular hole close to the end of a pipe, and welded the straight end of the key into that hole. So I can use the pipe as a lever to turn the key without as much length to twist. -. (L key) pipe | ============|= ^ this end will go into the SHCS I have no idea how will the key behave after having been welded. I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Any comments? i |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On 2010-05-30, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
JR North fired this volley in : I also have hex keys that are driven with a 1/2" breaker bar or an impact. I am really afraid that it may somehow break the SHCS, which would be terrible considering its job (holding the mill head). Iggy, those come out. And I do not think that they are rusty, just very strongly torqued. Soak them a couple of days in Kroil or whatever. Use impact-rated hex bits. Support the head in case you break the bolts. If they all break, it'll be easy enough to get the stubs out. You just don't want the head tipping over unexpectedly. Putting a pipe near the vertical section of an "L" key won't keep it from twisting... Same screws, same arrangement on my R2E4. Lloyd, I meant to ask you, how do you like your R2E4? Are you using the original control? i |
#19
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On 2010-05-30, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus6711 wrote: Any comments? It has been 6 hours. Did you try anything that was suggested? No, I cannot get to the mill until tomorrow. Tomorrow may be the "big day" when I put the mill on trailer. Worse comes to worse, you can drill a shcs out. Since my employer uses a lot of carbide twist drills, I put an edge on one from the carbide scrap bucket and use that with a hand drill. I often break them or chip them, but I just grab another and keep going. Once the head is off, the remaining portion tends to be finger tight. Wes, I hope that I just get it with the proper tool. I have a breaker bar with a 3/8" socket and a piece of a 3/8" allen key to fit the socket and the bolt. I think that it should work. i |
#20
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On 2010-05-30, john wrote:
I would not weld the allen wrench. YOu will anneal it causing it to bend. Just slip a pipe over it and pull. You will break the allen wrench before the bolt will snap. Don't hit the bolt with a hammer directly on the top or you will peen in the hex. If you want to hit it cut a small length off your allen wrench and put that in and then hit that. If you apply heat put the heat on the casting but not too much or there is a slight chance it could crack from heat stress. It is possible that there was locktite applied to the bolts. Heat will help release the locktite. A breaker bar and a allen head driver will also work but make sure it is a good quality tool (a life time warrenty helps). Impact wrenches suck for taking off bolts unless you have a large air supply and something that puts out at least 350 ft.lb. Don't be afraid of breaking off the head of the bolt. If it ever did break you just put a larger nut over the stub and weld it onto the stub. Two things will happen, you will have a good grip on the stud, and the heat from welding will loosen the grip of the stud in the thread and it will turn out easily after it cools. If you break your allen wrench I have a case of 3/8 of them made before there were china imports. I got them at an auction 15 years ago. Its one of the most common sizes on larger machines. John, I think that I will get the bolts, I hope that they did not locktite them, it is a scary thought. I have two options, one is that pipe with a welded on bolt, and another is a breaker bar. I have a big case of allen wrenches, maybe 40 lbs, so I have a lifetime supply of any inch size I want. i |
#21
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On 5/30/2010 8:45 PM, Ignoramus28053 wrote:
On 2010-05-30, wrote: wrote: Any comments? It has been 6 hours. Did you try anything that was suggested? No, I cannot get to the mill until tomorrow. Tomorrow may be the "big day" when I put the mill on trailer. Worse comes to worse, you can drill a shcs out. Since my employer uses a lot of carbide twist drills, I put an edge on one from the carbide scrap bucket and use that with a hand drill. I often break them or chip them, but I just grab another and keep going. Once the head is off, the remaining portion tends to be finger tight. Wes, I hope that I just get it with the proper tool. I have a breaker bar with a 3/8" socket and a piece of a 3/8" allen key to fit the socket and the bolt. I think that it should work. i I would use a socket head allen wrench and a hammer impact driver. Worked great on my old Kawasaki bike. both twists and shocks the bolt at the same time. |
#22
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Ignoramus28053 fired this volley in
: Lloyd, I meant to ask you, how do you like your R2E4? Are you using the original control? Yep, although at some future date, I wish to upgrade it to EMC^2, add a 4th axis, and some other niggling things. But yes... it's a nice machine. Kind of klunky and a bit prone to connector failures now and again -- but I'm not doing any production work with it. The only concessions to modernity on it right now are the changes I made to the motor drive and power supply connections. I added a slow-start VFC to the drive, and now signal reversals through the VFC, instead of switch-reversing it, and speed is still selected pneumatically with the variable sheaves, ranges manually by the shift lever. I also rewired the PS for single phase -- so the whole machine is on 240V single now, and most satisfactory. The electronics are old, but pretty stable, the monitor has but a little burn, and mechanically, the machine is almost brand new. Hardly any wear at all in the ways. I had some old scans of the manuals, and they were adequate for making the changes, but recently Dave Blank dug up some original BP manuals, and kindly sent them. So... I'm "fully equipped", except for having enough of the 30-type tool holders. LLoyd |
#23
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On 2010-05-31, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ignoramus28053 fired this volley in : Lloyd, I meant to ask you, how do you like your R2E4? Are you using the original control? Yep, although at some future date, I wish to upgrade it to EMC^2, add a 4th axis, and some other niggling things. But yes... it's a nice machine. Kind of klunky and a bit prone to connector failures now and again -- but I'm not doing any production work with it. The only concessions to modernity on it right now are the changes I made to the motor drive and power supply connections. I added a slow-start VFC to the drive, and now signal reversals through the VFC, instead of switch-reversing it, and speed is still selected pneumatically with the variable sheaves, ranges manually by the shift lever. I also rewired the PS for single phase -- so the whole machine is on 240V single now, and most satisfactory. The electronics are old, but pretty stable, the monitor has but a little burn, and mechanically, the machine is almost brand new. Hardly any wear at all in the ways. I had some old scans of the manuals, and they were adequate for making the changes, but recently Dave Blank dug up some original BP manuals, and kindly sent them. So... I'm "fully equipped", except for having enough of the 30-type tool holders. Cool. I do not have such a luxury of having a working control, and will be retrofitting. My iron is also in a good shape with hardly any wear. Are your holders QC-30? i |
#24
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Ignoramus26677 fired this volley in
: Are your holders QC-30? yep. There seems to still be a decent supply of American made old and NOS holders out there (but a bit pricey), and there are some nicely-made Taiwanese clones available for cheap. But right now, I'm spending my money on other things. LLoyd PS(it would be nice to build a tool-changer, too, but I don't know if that's beyond my skills) LS |
#25
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
"Ignoramus28053" skrev i en meddelelse news:- John, I think that I will get the bolts, I hope that they did not locktite them, it is a scary thought. I have two options, one is that pipe with a welded on bolt, and another is a breaker bar. I have a big case of allen wrenches, maybe 40 lbs, so I have a lifetime supply of any inch size I want. Heating to 300 F or 150 C will normally loosen the Loctite. -- Uffe Bærentsen |
#26
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Bolts removed. Head taken off the mill with only a slight mishap.
i On 2010-05-31, Uffe B?rentsen wrote: "Ignoramus28053" skrev i en meddelelse news:- John, I think that I will get the bolts, I hope that they did not locktite them, it is a scary thought. I have two options, one is that pipe with a welded on bolt, and another is a breaker bar. I have a big case of allen wrenches, maybe 40 lbs, so I have a lifetime supply of any inch size I want. Heating to 300 F or 150 C will normally loosen the Loctite. |
#27
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On Mon, 31 May 2010 15:19:44 -0500, Ignoramus26677
wrote: Bolts removed. Head taken off the mill with only a slight mishap. i And that mishap was....? VBG Gunner On 2010-05-31, Uffe B?rentsen wrote: "Ignoramus28053" skrev i en meddelelse news:- John, I think that I will get the bolts, I hope that they did not locktite them, it is a scary thought. I have two options, one is that pipe with a welded on bolt, and another is a breaker bar. I have a big case of allen wrenches, maybe 40 lbs, so I have a lifetime supply of any inch size I want. Heating to 300 F or 150 C will normally loosen the Loctite. -- "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#28
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Ignoramus26677 fired this volley in
: Bolts removed. Head taken off the mill with only a slight mishap. Um... HOW slight? What? LLoyd |
#29
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
On 2010-05-31, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 31 May 2010 15:19:44 -0500, Ignoramus26677 wrote: Bolts removed. Head taken off the mill with only a slight mishap. i And that mishap was....? the head was dropped. but it does not look like anything broke, it fell whe it was half rested on a pallet, and i slopwed down its fall. it disengaged from the forklift forks ** Sent from my Google phone ** I apologize for any typos ** VBG Gunner On 2010-05-31, Uffe B?rentsen wrote: "Ignoramus28053" skrev i en meddelelse news:- John, I think that I will get the bolts, I hope that they did not locktite them, it is a scary thought. I have two options, one is that pipe with a welded on bolt, and another is a breaker bar. I have a big case of allen wrenches, maybe 40 lbs, so I have a lifetime supply of any inch size I want. Heating to 300 F or 150 C will normally loosen the Loctite. |
#30
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Ignoramus26677 wrote:
the head was dropped. but it does not look like anything broke, it fell whe it was half rested on a pallet, and i slopwed down its fall. it disengaged from the forklift forks I *think* I mentioned putting the other bolts back in. Wes |
#31
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
Ignoramus26677 wrote:
On 2010-05-31, Gunner wrote: On Mon, 31 May 2010 15:19:44 -0500, Ignoramus26677 wrote: Bolts removed. Head taken off the mill with only a slight mishap. i And that mishap was....? the head was dropped. but it does not look like anything broke, it fell whe it was half rested on a pallet, and i slopwed down its fall. it disengaged from the forklift forks ** Sent from my Google phone ** I apologize for any typos ** VBG Gunner On 2010-05-31, Uffe wrote: id skrev i en meddelelse news:- John, I think that I will get the bolts, I hope that they did not locktite them, it is a scary thought. I have two options, one is that pipe with a welded on bolt, and another is a breaker bar. I have a big case of allen wrenches, maybe 40 lbs, so I have a lifetime supply of any inch size I want. Heating to 300 F or 150 C will normally loosen the Loctite. On every bridgeport head that I have seen there is a tapped hole for an eyebolt designed for lifting off the head. Also if you use a chain to lift put a slab of wood between the chain and the forklift tong. It will keep the chain from slipping. Glad you didn't get hurt when it dropped. John |
#32
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Sat, 29 May 2010 22:35:30 -0700: And you are going to need a pretty good sized pipe or breaker bar. Got an impact..set it to tighten..tighten for a couple seconds, then back it out. I second this. If no impact tool, then tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. More torque each time. -- Dan H. northshore MA. |
#33
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
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#34
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How to remove a very stubborn and high risk socket head cap screw
What's that Lassie? You say that Lloyd E. Sponenburgh fell down the
old rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Mon, 31 May 2010 21:56:33 -0500: (dan) fired this volley in news:4c046b20.3365293 : I second this. If no impact tool, then tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. More torque each time. -- Why would he want to do that when he's already gotten the bolts out? LLoyd When was that? How'd he do it? -- Dan H. northshore MA. |
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