When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

Bob Swinney

Robert Swinney wrote:
When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition
system? It seems a more faithful restoration would leave the
original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

Bob Swinney

I'd say it would depend on whether you want to drive it or show it ...

--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF

"Robert Swinney" writes:

When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

Depends on what you've got and what you want. If the goal is a faithful
restoration, restore the original. If the goal is a good driver, go
modern.

My '78 Newport came with one of the first spark control computers in the
world. But, sensors failed that I couldn't fins replacements for,
so... it's got the Mopar Performance ignition system. A lot of my
friends in the old-car world refer to this as "restifying" -- basically
restoring, but a little bit of modification and modernization here and
there since we're keeping drivers on the road, not entering concours
competitions.
--
As we enjoy great advantages from the inventions of others, we should
be glad of an opportunity to serve others by any invention of ours;
and this we should do freely and generously. (Benjamin Franklin)

On Feb 21, 10:48*am, "Robert Swinney" wrote:
When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? *It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. *But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. *Please advise.

Bob Swinney

I think the vintage aircraft people install new safer replacements but
keep the old ones for display.

jsw

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 09:48:24 -0600, the infamous "Robert Swinney"
scrawled the following:

When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

My advice: If it's a daily/monthly driver, install newer technology.
If it's a show car which will be trailered everywhere, install the
original setup.

A T-bucket at a car show sporting smallblock chebby engine is an
eyesore, IMNSHO.

--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow

Robert Swinney wrote:

When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.


My personal take: If you are restoring for value and resale, original,
original, original to whatever extent is possible. If you are restoring
for your own enjoyment, do what you want but do not modify anything that
cannot be fairly readily restored to original.


Jon

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 09:48:24 -0600, Robert Swinney wrote:

When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system?
It seems a more faithful restoration would leave the original ignition
components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern solid state would be
the best plan. Please advise.

Bob Swinney

Like everyone else said: fit it to what you're doing. If it helps, many
folks who restore old Fords and have more than one car will have one
'show' car that's as original as possible, and one that's been modernized
to some extent for drivabilty.

What that second car has on it varies by whatever the guy wants --
usually things like ignition systems will be upgraded, often the car will
have minor 'period' custom touches like wide whites or 'from the day'
performance parts. It's not uncommon for model A clubs to have a period
chassis (maybe with juice brakes) with a fiberglass body and fenders.

So do what you want. There's only one 'right way' if you're entering a
concourse, but if your car is just in the parking lot there is no limit.

--
www.wescottdesign.com

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 09:48:24 -0600, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

Bob Swinney

I personally have no problems running points buts some people I know
(including died in the wool 100% restoral fanatics) have been known
to slip a Pertronix module into thier distributer, only one rather
non-descrpit extra wire to give it away.

Mindya, they usualy keep a set of points in the glove box "just in
case"

H.

"Robert Swinney" wrote in message
...
When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system?
It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But,
OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

Bob Swinney


Bob,
I have a 1948 (driver) and a 1952 (under restoration) Pontiac. The only
changes I have made is to install a 12 volt battery along with a 12 volt
coil and a "one wire" Chevy alternator. Of course I kept all of the old
parts. The coil and the battery look the same as the originals. And, I
also did install an updated radio into the 1948. It sits under the dash
(under the existing radio) and has a remote control. It can be removed
within a few minutes.
I don't know why I would want an electronic ignition? Would my straight 8
cylinder motor know the difference?

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

Robert Swinney wrote:
When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

Bob Swinney

Personally I like to keep what's best for what the vehicle is for. For a
vintage performance sports car I keep the looks, the excellent motor,
but get the best available components for it. as well as best
suspension, transmission components and tires.

Robert Swinney wrote:
When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

Bob Swinney


What is the goal of the restorer?
Concourse and points style competitions with a trailer queen?
OR a nicely restored but fully functional driver?

Of course this also brings up the question of what can you hide in plain
sight with regards to the ignition. For instance on most points units
you have a single wire coming out to the coil. You can get two conductor
wire in a single black shell that would enable you to hide a Pertronix
module under the cap and use a standard oil filled coil and it would
look fine because you can hide the second wire in the harness.

http://www.pertronix.com/

--
Steve W.

Thanx to all who replied.

Bob Swinney
"Steve W." wrote in message ...
Robert Swinney wrote:
When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

Bob Swinney


What is the goal of the restorer?
Concourse and points style competitions with a trailer queen?
OR a nicely restored but fully functional driver?

Of course this also brings up the question of what can you hide in plain
sight with regards to the ignition. For instance on most points units
you have a single wire coming out to the coil. You can get two conductor
wire in a single black shell that would enable you to hide a Pertronix
module under the cap and use a standard oil filled coil and it would
look fine because you can hide the second wire in the harness.

http://www.pertronix.com/

--
Steve W.

I have a n umber of older cars from 1936 on - I mostly use a CD ignition
driven by the breaker points, and I hide the CD unit somewhere - the Delta
Mk 10 is a good unit for this - you can get them in 6 and 12V - or if you
have a little electronic skill, browse to the "articles I wrote" section of
my web page and find the article on building your own CD ignition - the
points will last a very long time when driving a CD ignition and if you want
to take it out to be 100% authentic for a show, there is no hard work
involved.



"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Robert Swinney wrote:
When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system?
It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But,
OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

Bob Swinney


What is the goal of the restorer?
Concourse and points style competitions with a trailer queen?
OR a nicely restored but fully functional driver?

Of course this also brings up the question of what can you hide in plain
sight with regards to the ignition. For instance on most points units
you have a single wire coming out to the coil. You can get two conductor
wire in a single black shell that would enable you to hide a Pertronix
module under the cap and use a standard oil filled coil and it would
look fine because you can hide the second wire in the harness.

http://www.pertronix.com/

--
Steve W.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 20:49:14 -0800, Bill Noble wrote:

I have a n umber of older cars from 1936 on - I mostly use a CD
ignition driven by the breaker points, and I hide the CD unit somewhere
- the Delta Mk 10 is a good unit for this - you can get them in 6 and
12V - or if you have a little electronic skill, browse to the "articles
I wrote" section of my web page and find the article on building your
own CD ignition - the points will last a very long time when driving a
CD ignition and if you want to take it out to be 100% authentic for a
show, there is no hard work involved.

That would work if I could find a link to your website...

--
www.wescottdesign.com

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 20:49:14 -0800, Bill Noble wrote:

I have a n umber of older cars from 1936 on - I mostly use a CD
ignition driven by the breaker points, and I hide the CD unit somewhere
- the Delta Mk 10 is a good unit for this - you can get them in 6 and
12V - or if you have a little electronic skill, browse to the "articles
I wrote" section of my web page and find the article on building your
own CD ignition - the points will last a very long time when driving a
CD ignition and if you want to take it out to be 100% authentic for a
show, there is no hard work involved.

That would work if I could find a link to your website...


tim - try www.wbnoble.com

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 09:48:24 -0600, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. Please advise.

The one thing nobody has emphasized yet - Whatever changes you make,
don't hack up the car - they need to be easily reversible without
major reconstruction.

In other words, if you want to add electronic ignition, make a
mounting bracket that fastens to existing holes in the body, and don't
chop up the wiring harness - get the mating plugs and then make a
separate harness for the additions that comes out easily.

If you want to add a stereo, KEEP the original radio so it can be
reinstalled - if it's an oddball, leave it in place. Don't hack up
the dash, mount the new unit underneath if you need to.

If you make external modifications, make them period to when the car
was new. Offenhauser and Edelbrock (et. many al.) made speed parts
for Model T's and A's forward while they were still new, and these
would not be out of period for a vintage car. You could do a LOT of
go-fast with the original Ford Flathead V8 if you wanted to do the
work.

There are always movie producers looking for clean vintage cars to
lease for movie shoots, and they pay well - If yours has chrome
sidepipes and racing slicks and modern traction bars, you aren't going
to get the call.

-- Bruce --

On Feb 21, 8:48*am, "Robert Swinney" wrote:
When "restoring" a vintage car how does one handle the ignition system? *It seems a more faithful
restoration would leave the original ignition components intact. *But, OTOH, switching to modern
solid state would be the best plan. *Please advise.

Bob Swinney

I built a small CD unit that is switched by the original points and
strapped that to the coil on my type III VW. Points last until the
rubbing block gives out, they're not as cheap as they used to be! If
I want/need to go back to original, like for static timing, the quick-
connects can be moved in seconds on the coil. Timing only changes as
the rubbing block wears, though. If I need to remove the whole unit,
it just takes a minute or two to remove the hose clamp holding it on.
Original cost was about $20 for the kit and $4-5 for the box and
mounting hardware. I don't see a downside here, other than if you're
the kind that actually lifts the hood on every car and expects a
factory-original and -condition engine. The worst part of any
restoration is replacing the old wiring, most is well beyond the
'crispy-critters' stage if it's even intact.

Stan