On Dec 15, 1:54*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. *It is a 12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. *I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. *Since it
is 12v. *what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?

Steve

I damaged two riding mower batteries and a jump start pack by running
a 2500# winch off them. They still work but the charge capacity
dropped a lot.

Winches and hoists have different control requirements and the makers
don't recommend interchanging them. YMMV

jsw

Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a 12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?

Steve



Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a 12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?

Steve

On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 10:54:53 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a 12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?

I installed a removeable[1] 12v HF 4,000 lb winch in my 1 ton box van.
It's about 1' below the ceiling. The wiring was too short to reach
the battery so I just used a 12 v automotive battery charger. Hooked
it up direct, on the 6 amp setting. It worked well enough to pull an
upright grand piano inside.

[1] Four bolts to remove/install.

Newb

Steve,
Be aware that winches do not have adequate brakes for overhead loads. Also be aware that the relays used for forward and backward
use are often seriously underrated for their application, especially if they are Chinese. The magnet coils will fire at 3-5V and
over current at 12-14V because they are under wound and burn up with prolonged use. Thirdly, to prevent the non-plated relay
contacts to survive arcing when stopping the winch, place a large 60-70 uf AC capacitor across the relay output terminals. The
larger the cap the better. This will allow the cap to continue to power the motor while the contacts continue to separate. Giving
time to create an adequate air dielectric boundary before the back EMF pulse arrives at the contacts from the motor. As far as
adequate power, use a large truck battery (100 Amp Hr) and recharge immediately after use.
Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message ...
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a 12v. Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I
need to do onto my trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. Since it is 12v. what would I use as a
power supply that would give me the same as an automotive setup?

Steve

On Dec 15, 12:08*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. *It is a 12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. *I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. *Since it
is 12v. *what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT

On Dec 15, 3:08*pm, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
Steve,
Be aware that winches do not have adequate brakes for overhead loads. Also be aware that the relays used for forward and backward
use are often seriously underrated for their application, especially if they are Chinese. The magnet coils will fire at 3-5V and
over current at 12-14V because they are *under wound and burn up with prolonged use. Thirdly, to prevent the non-plated relay
contacts to survive arcing when stopping the winch, place a large 60-70 uf AC capacitor across the relay output terminals. The
larger the cap the better. This will allow the cap to continue to power the motor while the contacts continue to separate. Giving
time to create an adequate air dielectric boundary before the back EMF pulse arrives at the contacts from the motor. As far as
adequate power, use a large truck battery (100 Amp Hr) and recharge immediately after use.
Steve



"Steve B" wrote in ...
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. *It is a 12v. Vortec 9500 # winch. *I can use it for some skidding I
need to do onto my trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. *Since it is 12v. *what would I use as a
power supply that would give me the same as an automotive setup?

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Good comments.

I have seen those winches stick "ON" when the contacts fuse.

It makes for an exciting moment when you are winching tons on to a
trailer and it doesn't stop.

TMT

What the others said about overhead lifting.

As for the power supply, I'll presume you are looking at a standard 4wd
off road style winch. Check out the catalog pages he
http://www.ramseypdfs.com/Auto_Catal...ivecatalog.pdf
page 3 shows the current draw for a 9500 pound winch. Depending on the
load, it can draw 400 plus amps. Only way you are going to get this is
to put a big storage battery with some sort of charger. An automotive
battery will only be good for 30 to 60 seconds at full load before it
will start deteriorating inside. The diesel truck batteries will take
more abuse.

Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a 12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?

Steve

On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:08Â*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. Â*It is a 12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. Â*I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. Â*Since it
is 12v. Â*what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT
A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.

SteveB, manual chain hoists are very cheap and are much safer and more
straightforward for lifting, than this winch. I join the rest in
suggesting to use the winch for pulling and a chain hoist for
lifting.

i

On Dec 15, 10:03*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools





wrote:
On Dec 15, 12:08*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. *It is a 12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. *I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. *Since it
is 12v. *what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT

*A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Not when it fails.

And that is WHEN it fails...not IF it fails.

And yes you can make it work...until that day it fails.

TMT

On Dec 15, 10:12*pm, Ignoramus18922 ignoramus18...@NOSPAM.
18922.invalid wrote:
SteveB, manual chain hoists are very cheap and are much safer and more
straightforward for lifting, than this winch. I join the rest in
suggesting to use the winch for pulling and a chain hoist for
lifting.

i

Ig is right.

A chain hoist would be a good cheaper solution.

Just assume anything under the load is expendable...including your
body parts.

TMT

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:08 pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a
12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto
my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting.
Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same
as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT
A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.

The hoist in question is rated 9500#. I want one to bolt to a 20'+ trailer
so I can go drag on some free telephone poles locally to use on my ranch for
fence posts and a basis for a fort for the grandkids. When used overhead,
it would be used to transfer materials, maximum 500#, and used to help lift
and spin gates and sections of tubular steel fencing, probably 150# tops.
If I was to really lift anything questionable, I would simply double the
line, and that should reduce the pull enough so that the small amount of
braking and natural resistance of the gears would hold the load in place
until it can be lowered.

I have one of the cheap 500# HF hoists at my cabin, just to raise and lower
groceries and luggage, and it works stupendously as it never has over 50# on
it at any time. The rotating swing arm I made works super, too.

My wife even complimented me on it when she saw how much easier it was even
though I did go through weeks of needling during construction and
installation, being accused of severe overkill. I have gotten several
compliments from guests, too, who don't have to schlep their baggage up and
down stairs.

So, good enough is good enough until you start to get close to safe working
load and all that stuff. This will do more than I want it to. And be safe,
too.

Steve

"Ignoramus18922" wrote in message
...
SteveB, manual chain hoists are very cheap and are much safer and more
straightforward for lifting, than this winch. I join the rest in
suggesting to use the winch for pulling and a chain hoist for
lifting.

i

With my back and shoulders, I like the push button variety. This will be
for winching, sure. But for lifting, it will be for very light lifting.
Unless, of course, I decide to buy a real hoist, which will probably be the
case, since I can just leave it in place.

Steve

On 2009-12-16, Steve B wrote:

"Ignoramus18922" wrote in message
...
SteveB, manual chain hoists are very cheap and are much safer and more
straightforward for lifting, than this winch. I join the rest in
suggesting to use the winch for pulling and a chain hoist for
lifting.

i

With my back and shoulders, I like the push button variety. This will be
for winching, sure. But for lifting, it will be for very light lifting.
Unless, of course, I decide to buy a real hoist, which will probably be the
case, since I can just leave it in place.

Chain hoists are easy to operate, no big efforts are required. With my
"2-ton" chain hoist, a child can operate one, specifically a 8 year
old.

Theis minus is that though they are easy to run, they are slow. For me
personally, it does not matter much, as I use them rarely.

I actually sold a 1/4 ton electric Harrington hoist last week because
I never had a need for it.

i

Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:08 pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a
12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto
my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting.
Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same
as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT
A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.

The hoist in question is rated 9500#. I want one to bolt to a 20'+ trailer
so I can go drag on some free telephone poles locally to use on my ranch for
fence posts and a basis for a fort for the grandkids. When used overhead,
it would be used to transfer materials, maximum 500#, and used to help lift
and spin gates and sections of tubular steel fencing, probably 150# tops.
If I was to really lift anything questionable, I would simply double the
line, and that should reduce the pull enough so that the small amount of
braking and natural resistance of the gears would hold the load in place
until it can be lowered.

I have one of the cheap 500# HF hoists at my cabin, just to raise and lower
groceries and luggage, and it works stupendously as it never has over 50# on
it at any time. The rotating swing arm I made works super, too.

My wife even complimented me on it when she saw how much easier it was even
though I did go through weeks of needling during construction and
installation, being accused of severe overkill. I have gotten several
compliments from guests, too, who don't have to schlep their baggage up and
down stairs.

So, good enough is good enough until you start to get close to safe working
load and all that stuff. This will do more than I want it to. And be safe,
too.

Steve

Well then, if you're gonna do that with it I'd suggest putting a
properly rated knife switch right by where the controls for it are
gonna be used, just in case, cause it can really suck when relay
contacts get
welded together. Just my .02.

Mike

Steve sez:
"Since it is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?"

The simple answer is: A battery of the same rating as used in an automotive setup.

Bob Swinney

"mike" wrote

Well then, if you're gonna do that with it I'd suggest putting a
properly rated knife switch right by where the controls for it are
gonna be used, just in case, cause it can really suck when relay
contacts get
welded together. Just my .02.

Mike

Great idea. A runaway 9500# winch can cause problems.

Steve

Not clear Steve - - - again. You could use an AC powered battery charger to maintain "float." If
you were to design a power supply for direct operation from residential power, you'd need to pay
careful attention to the horsepower required by the hoist. Your OP didn't burden us with that
information.

Bob Swinney
"Steve B" wrote in message ...

"Robert Swinney" wrote in message
...
Steve sez:
"Since it is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me
the same as
an automotive setup?"

The simple answer is: A battery of the same rating as used in an
automotive setup.

Bob Swinney

I didn't state that I wanted to use an AC power source, and not have the
falderal of maintaining a battery. That is why I asked that question.
Please reread and try again.

Steve

"Robert Swinney" wrote in message
...
Steve sez:
"Since it is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me
the same as
an automotive setup?"

The simple answer is: A battery of the same rating as used in an
automotive setup.

Bob Swinney

I didn't state that I wanted to use an AC power source, and not have the
falderal of maintaining a battery. That is why I asked that question.
Please reread and try again.

Steve

Steve B wrote:
"Robert Swinney" wrote in message
...
Steve sez:
"Since it is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me
the same as
an automotive setup?"

The simple answer is: A battery of the same rating as used in an
automotive setup.

Bob Swinney

I didn't state that I wanted to use an AC power source, and not have the
falderal of maintaining a battery. That is why I asked that question.
Please reread and try again.

Steve

Nice.

OK, IMHO the proper answer is "ask a better question".
There's absolutely no way to know how much current the
winch will draw given the information you have supplied.

If I were doing this, and I wouldn't, I'd buy the winch,
hook it to a car battery, lift/pull the max load that
I'd want it to handle while measuring its current draw.
I'd then build/buy a 12 volt power supply with a current
capacity of 150 to 200 percent greater than I measured.

The problem is that the power supply will likely be far
bigger/more expensive than you'll want.

On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 06:41:04 -0800 (PST), mike
wrote:



Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:08 pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a
12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto
my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting.
Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same
as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT
A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.

The hoist in question is rated 9500#. I want one to bolt to a 20'+ trailer
so I can go drag on some free telephone poles locally to use on my ranch for
fence posts and a basis for a fort for the grandkids. When used overhead,
it would be used to transfer materials, maximum 500#, and used to help lift
and spin gates and sections of tubular steel fencing, probably 150# tops.
If I was to really lift anything questionable, I would simply double the
line, and that should reduce the pull enough so that the small amount of
braking and natural resistance of the gears would hold the load in place
until it can be lowered.

I have one of the cheap 500# HF hoists at my cabin, just to raise and lower
groceries and luggage, and it works stupendously as it never has over 50# on
it at any time. The rotating swing arm I made works super, too.

My wife even complimented me on it when she saw how much easier it was even
though I did go through weeks of needling during construction and
installation, being accused of severe overkill. I have gotten several
compliments from guests, too, who don't have to schlep their baggage up and
down stairs.

So, good enough is good enough until you start to get close to safe working
load and all that stuff. This will do more than I want it to. And be safe,
too.

Steve

Well then, if you're gonna do that with it I'd suggest putting a
properly rated knife switch right by where the controls for it are
gonna be used, just in case, cause it can really suck when relay
contacts get
welded together. Just my .02.

Mike

Relays can stick?

http://thatwillbuffout.com/wp-conten...-overeager.jpg

"Jim Stewart" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
"Robert Swinney" wrote in message
...
Steve sez:
"Since it is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me
the same as
an automotive setup?"

The simple answer is: A battery of the same rating as used in an
automotive setup.

Bob Swinney

I didn't state that I wanted to use an AC power source, and not have the
falderal of maintaining a battery. That is why I asked that question.
Please reread and try again.

Steve

Nice.

OK, IMHO the proper answer is "ask a better question".
There's absolutely no way to know how much current the
winch will draw given the information you have supplied.

If I were doing this, and I wouldn't, I'd buy the winch,
hook it to a car battery, lift/pull the max load that
I'd want it to handle while measuring its current draw.
I'd then build/buy a 12 volt power supply with a current
capacity of 150 to 200 percent greater than I measured.

The problem is that the power supply will likely be far
bigger/more expensive than you'll want.

Thank you for the clear succinct answer. I am impressed by your ability to
do so from such a poorly worded question. I think it is because of your
"answer the question" rather than "beat them up first, THEN answer the
question ad hominem" approach.

Steve ;-)

On Dec 16, 10:56*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"mike" wrote

Well then, if you're gonna do that with it I'd suggest putting a
properly rated knife switch right by where the controls for it are
gonna be used, just in case, cause it can really suck when relay
contacts get
welded together. *Just my .02.

Mike

Great idea. *A runaway 9500# winch can cause problems.

Steve

LOL...espeically when it has 9500 pounds attached to it.

TMT

On Dec 16, 1:44*pm, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 06:41:04 -0800 (PST), mike





wrote:

Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:08 pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a
12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto
my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting..
Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same
as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT
A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.

The hoist in question is rated 9500#. *I want one to bolt to a 20'+ trailer
so I can go drag on some free telephone poles locally to use on my ranch for
fence posts and a basis for a fort for the grandkids. *When used overhead,
it would be used to transfer materials, maximum 500#, and used to help lift
and spin gates and sections of tubular steel fencing, probably 150# tops.
If I was to really lift anything questionable, I would simply double the
line, and that should reduce the pull enough so that the small amount of
braking and natural resistance of the gears would hold the load in place
until it can be lowered.

I have one of the cheap 500# HF hoists at my cabin, just to raise and lower
groceries and luggage, and it works stupendously as it never has over 50# on
it at any time. *The rotating swing arm I made works super, too.

My wife even complimented me on it when she saw how much easier it was even
though I did go through weeks of needling during construction and
installation, being accused of severe overkill. *I have gotten several
compliments from guests, too, who don't have to schlep their baggage up and
down stairs.

So, good enough is good enough until you start to get close to safe working
load and all that stuff. *This will do more than I want it to. *And be safe,
too.

Steve

Well then, if you're gonna do that with it I'd suggest putting a
properly rated knife switch right by where the controls for it are
gonna be used, just in case, cause it can really suck when relay
contacts get
welded together. *Just my .02.

Mike

Relays can stick?

http://thatwillbuffout.com/wp-conten...rnick-over...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

LOL...they do it all the time.

This last year I had a high current charger not shut off because the
relay stuck...one of the contact sets welded shut.

TMT

If you read my reply from a couple of days back, it shows a reference
for a very similar winch and lists no load current of 95 amps at 12
volts nominal. Under load it goes up to well above 400 amps. The exact
curve can be calculated from the data in the above mentioned chart but
your application would SWAG out at 150 to 200 amps. That is a BIG power
supply. If you happen to have a clapped out 220 volt MIG welder, you
could run it on 120 volts and it would be about right.

Steve B wrote:
"Jim Stewart" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
"Robert Swinney" wrote in message
...
Steve sez:
"Since it is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me
the same as
an automotive setup?"

The simple answer is: A battery of the same rating as used in an
automotive setup.

Bob Swinney
I didn't state that I wanted to use an AC power source, and not have the
falderal of maintaining a battery. That is why I asked that question.
Please reread and try again.

Steve
Nice.

OK, IMHO the proper answer is "ask a better question".
There's absolutely no way to know how much current the
winch will draw given the information you have supplied.

If I were doing this, and I wouldn't, I'd buy the winch,
hook it to a car battery, lift/pull the max load that
I'd want it to handle while measuring its current draw.
I'd then build/buy a 12 volt power supply with a current
capacity of 150 to 200 percent greater than I measured.

The problem is that the power supply will likely be far
bigger/more expensive than you'll want.

Thank you for the clear succinct answer. I am impressed by your ability to
do so from such a poorly worded question. I think it is because of your
"answer the question" rather than "beat them up first, THEN answer the
question ad hominem" approach.

Steve ;-)

On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:21:54 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 10:03Â*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools





wrote:
On Dec 15, 12:08Â*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. Â*It is a 12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. Â*I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting. Â*Since it
is 12v. Â*what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT

Â*A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Not when it fails.

And that is WHEN it fails...not IF it fails.

And yes you can make it work...until that day it fails.

TMT
With a load factor of 10:1, the chance of failure is not much greater
than the chance of failure with a Chinese built Northern Machine chain
falls.

But do not ecxede 1/10 of rated pull strength when using as a hoist.

On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 06:41:04 -0800 (PST), mike
wrote:



Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:08 pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a
12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto
my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting.
Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same
as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT
A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.

The hoist in question is rated 9500#. I want one to bolt to a 20'+ trailer
so I can go drag on some free telephone poles locally to use on my ranch for
fence posts and a basis for a fort for the grandkids. When used overhead,
it would be used to transfer materials, maximum 500#, and used to help lift
and spin gates and sections of tubular steel fencing, probably 150# tops.
If I was to really lift anything questionable, I would simply double the
line, and that should reduce the pull enough so that the small amount of
braking and natural resistance of the gears would hold the load in place
until it can be lowered.

I have one of the cheap 500# HF hoists at my cabin, just to raise and lower
groceries and luggage, and it works stupendously as it never has over 50# on
it at any time. The rotating swing arm I made works super, too.

My wife even complimented me on it when she saw how much easier it was even
though I did go through weeks of needling during construction and
installation, being accused of severe overkill. I have gotten several
compliments from guests, too, who don't have to schlep their baggage up and
down stairs.

So, good enough is good enough until you start to get close to safe working
load and all that stuff. This will do more than I want it to. And be safe,
too.

Steve

Well then, if you're gonna do that with it I'd suggest putting a
properly rated knife switch right by where the controls for it are
gonna be used, just in case, cause it can really suck when relay
contacts get
welded together. Just my .02.

Mike
Use andersen connectors to connect, and put a rope on it so all you do
is yank the rope if something goes sour.

And remember, it will only draw about 1/10 the rated power at 1/10 the
rated load. Relays rarely weld under light loads.

Buy a cycle service battery, and a charger. How much of each you need
depends on the duty cycle.

If this is occasional use, even the $10 HF charger will do. So what if it
needs most of a day to recover from your 5 minutes of use, if you use it
once a week?

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On Dec 16, 2:44*pm, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 06:41:04 -0800 (PST), mike



wrote:

Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:08 pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a
12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto
my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting..
Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same
as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT
A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.

The hoist in question is rated 9500#. *I want one to bolt to a 20'+ trailer
so I can go drag on some free telephone poles locally to use on my ranch for
fence posts and a basis for a fort for the grandkids. *When used overhead,
it would be used to transfer materials, maximum 500#, and used to help lift
and spin gates and sections of tubular steel fencing, probably 150# tops.
If I was to really lift anything questionable, I would simply double the
line, and that should reduce the pull enough so that the small amount of
braking and natural resistance of the gears would hold the load in place
until it can be lowered.

I have one of the cheap 500# HF hoists at my cabin, just to raise and lower
groceries and luggage, and it works stupendously as it never has over 50# on
it at any time. *The rotating swing arm I made works super, too.

My wife even complimented me on it when she saw how much easier it was even
though I did go through weeks of needling during construction and
installation, being accused of severe overkill. *I have gotten several
compliments from guests, too, who don't have to schlep their baggage up and
down stairs.

So, good enough is good enough until you start to get close to safe working
load and all that stuff. *This will do more than I want it to. *And be safe,
too.

Steve

Well then, if you're gonna do that with it I'd suggest putting a
properly rated knife switch right by where the controls for it are
gonna be used, just in case, cause it can really suck when relay
contacts get
welded together. *Just my .02.

Mike

Relays can stick?

http://thatwillbuffout.com/wp-conten...octornick-over...

rofl!

On Dec 16, 10:18*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 06:41:04 -0800 (PST), mike



wrote:

Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:08 pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a
12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto
my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting..
Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same
as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT
A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.

The hoist in question is rated 9500#. *I want one to bolt to a 20'+ trailer
so I can go drag on some free telephone poles locally to use on my ranch for
fence posts and a basis for a fort for the grandkids. *When used overhead,
it would be used to transfer materials, maximum 500#, and used to help lift
and spin gates and sections of tubular steel fencing, probably 150# tops.
If I was to really lift anything questionable, I would simply double the
line, and that should reduce the pull enough so that the small amount of
braking and natural resistance of the gears would hold the load in place
until it can be lowered.

I have one of the cheap 500# HF hoists at my cabin, just to raise and lower
groceries and luggage, and it works stupendously as it never has over 50# on
it at any time. *The rotating swing arm I made works super, too.

My wife even complimented me on it when she saw how much easier it was even
though I did go through weeks of needling during construction and
installation, being accused of severe overkill. *I have gotten several
compliments from guests, too, who don't have to schlep their baggage up and
down stairs.

So, good enough is good enough until you start to get close to safe working
load and all that stuff. *This will do more than I want it to. *And be safe,
too.

Steve

Well then, if you're gonna do that with it I'd suggest putting a
properly rated knife switch right by where the controls for it are
gonna be used, just in case, cause it can really suck when relay
contacts get
welded together. *Just my .02.

Mike

Use andersen connectors to connect, and put a rope on it so all you do
is yank the rope if something goes sour.

Is that what those ones they put on electric forklifts are called?
Seems like that would work pretty good as a disconnect, good idea...

On Dec 18, 12:19*pm, mike wrote:
On Dec 16, 10:18*pm, wrote:
...
Use andersen connectors to connect, and put a rope on it so all you do
is yank the rope if something goes sour.

Is that what those ones they put on electric forklifts are called?
Seems like that would work pretty good as a disconnect, good idea

http://www.andersonpower.com/products/

I've used the stackable Powerpole connectors at work and bought a
stash of surplus Multipole cables for home. They require expensive
tools to crimp correctly, and I haven't tried hammering and soldering
them.

jsw

On Dec 18, 12:45*pm, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Dec 18, 12:19*pm, mike wrote:

On Dec 16, 10:18*pm, wrote:
...
Use andersen connectors to connect, and put a rope on it so all you do
is yank the rope if something goes sour.

Is that what those ones they put on electric forklifts are called?
Seems like that would work pretty good as a disconnect, good idea

http://www.andersonpower.com/products/

I've used the stackable Powerpole connectors at work and bought a
stash of surplus Multipole cables for home. They require expensive
tools to crimp correctly, and I haven't tried hammering and soldering
them.

jsw

Those are different from the ones I was thinking about - they
sometimes show up at the
scrapyard, are usually rated at about 200 amps, but I'm sure they make
'em bigger too.

On Dec 18, 1:16*pm, mike wrote:
On Dec 18, 12:45*pm, Jim Wilkins wrote:





On Dec 18, 12:19*pm, mike wrote:

On Dec 16, 10:18*pm, wrote:
...
Use andersen connectors to connect, and put a rope on it so all you do
is yank the rope if something goes sour.

Is that what those ones they put on electric forklifts are called?
Seems like that would work pretty good as a disconnect, good idea

http://www.andersonpower.com/products/

I've used the stackable Powerpole connectors at work and bought a
stash of surplus Multipole cables for home. They require expensive
tools to crimp correctly, and I haven't tried hammering and soldering
them.

jsw

Those are different from the ones I was thinking about - they
sometimes show up at the
scrapyard, are usually rated at about 200 amps, but I'm sure they make
'em bigger too.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have the 175A size on my winch and the 75A one on inverter
batteries. They haven't warmed up noticeably in use.

jsw

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 09:19:25 -0800 (PST), mike
wrote:

On Dec 16, 10:18Â*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 06:41:04 -0800 (PST), mike



wrote:

Steve B wrote:
wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 15:14:15 -0800 (PST), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Dec 15, 12:08 pm, "Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
I have a winch I can buy for $200 that is almost brand new. It is a
12v.
Vortec 9500 # winch. I can use it for some skidding I need to do onto
my
trailer, but then, would hang it on an I beam dolly for hoisting.
Since it
is 12v. what would I use as a power supply that would give me the same
as
an automotive setup?

Steve

Most 12volt winches are not rated as hoists. None of them are rated for
overhead use either as many don't have proper braking or spools rated
for it.

--
Steve W.

Correct...your $200 winch is NOT a hoist.

People have died because they haven't understood the difference.

The law of gravity applies to everyone...and doesn't give a damn if
you get killed for being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

TMT
A 2000 lb winch makes a pretty acceptable 200 lb hoist.

The hoist in question is rated 9500#. Â*I want one to bolt to a 20'+ trailer
so I can go drag on some free telephone poles locally to use on my ranch for
fence posts and a basis for a fort for the grandkids. Â*When used overhead,
it would be used to transfer materials, maximum 500#, and used to help lift
and spin gates and sections of tubular steel fencing, probably 150# tops.
If I was to really lift anything questionable, I would simply double the
line, and that should reduce the pull enough so that the small amount of
braking and natural resistance of the gears would hold the load in place
until it can be lowered.

I have one of the cheap 500# HF hoists at my cabin, just to raise and lower
groceries and luggage, and it works stupendously as it never has over 50# on
it at any time. Â*The rotating swing arm I made works super, too.

My wife even complimented me on it when she saw how much easier it was even
though I did go through weeks of needling during construction and
installation, being accused of severe overkill. Â*I have gotten several
compliments from guests, too, who don't have to schlep their baggage up and
down stairs.

So, good enough is good enough until you start to get close to safe working
load and all that stuff. Â*This will do more than I want it to. Â*And be safe,
too.

Steve

Well then, if you're gonna do that with it I'd suggest putting a
properly rated knife switch right by where the controls for it are
gonna be used, just in case, cause it can really suck when relay
contacts get
welded together. Â*Just my .02.

Mike

Use andersen connectors to connect, and put a rope on it so all you do
is yank the rope if something goes sour.

Is that what those ones they put on electric forklifts are called?
Seems like that would work pretty good as a disconnect, good idea...

That's the animal. Best"Safety Disconnect " made

On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 09:45:46 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Dec 18, 12:19Â*pm, mike wrote:
On Dec 16, 10:18Â*pm, wrote:
...
Use andersen connectors to connect, and put a rope on it so all you do
is yank the rope if something goes sour.

Is that what those ones they put on electric forklifts are called?
Seems like that would work pretty good as a disconnect, good idea

http://www.andersonpower.com/products/

I've used the stackable Powerpole connectors at work and bought a
stash of surplus Multipole cables for home. They require expensive
tools to crimp correctly, and I haven't tried hammering and soldering
them.

jsw
They work too.