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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

Drill press switch query



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 27th 09, 11:29 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 137
Default Drill press switch query

Actual metalworking content...

Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and
the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen
again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are
*four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two.
Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector.
One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's
the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the
machine is plugged in.

My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please?

Best -- Terry
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  #2  
Old July 27th 09, 11:55 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 111
Default Drill press switch query

Terry wrote:
Actual metalworking content...

Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and
the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen
again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are
*four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two.
Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector.
One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's
the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the
machine is plugged in.

My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please?

Best -- Terry


Try unplugging the cord and removing the remainder of the switch.

Wrap electrical tape around the spade connector with the two red wires
on it to insulate it.

Connect the two black wires together and plug in the cord. If the motor
runs, then you can unplug it, disconnect the two black wires and route
them through that 15A wall switch you mentioned.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
  #3  
Old July 28th 09, 01:38 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 501
Default Drill press switch query

On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 16:29:06 -0500, Terry wrote:

Actual metalworking content...

Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and
the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen
again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are
*four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two.
Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector.
One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's
the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the
machine is plugged in.

My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please?


What was under the red plastic? Could you just glob some RTV on
the rocker, to simulate plastic?

Good Luck!
Rich


  #4  
Old July 28th 09, 02:10 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 137
Default Drill press switch query

On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:55:00 -0400, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Terry wrote:
Actual metalworking content...

Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and
the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen
again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are
*four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two.
Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector.
One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's
the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the
machine is plugged in.

My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please?

Best -- Terry


Try unplugging the cord and removing the remainder of the switch.

Wrap electrical tape around the spade connector with the two red wires
on it to insulate it.

Connect the two black wires together and plug in the cord. If the motor
runs, then you can unplug it, disconnect the two black wires and route
them through that 15A wall switch you mentioned.

Jeff


Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires,
though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other
appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're
connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would
they be connected *to*?

Not that it matters. I'm drilling again. No worries.

Thanks again -- Terry
  #5  
Old July 28th 09, 02:36 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 67
Default Drill press switch query

On Jul 27, 2:29*pm, Terry wrote:
Actual metalworking content...

Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and
the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen
again. *Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are
*four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two.
Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector.
One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's
the hot wire. *The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the
machine is plugged in.

My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. *Help, please?

Best -- Terry


OK. Best guess:
The two black are the hot incoming and the motor.

The two red are the cold/neutral and are 'looped' at the switch
terminal which has no connection - it's the equivalent of a wire nut /
marrette.

HIH.
  #6  
Old July 28th 09, 03:02 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 2,338
Default Drill press switch query

N Morrison wrote:

The two red are the cold/neutral and are 'looped' at the switch
terminal which has no connection - it's the equivalent of a wire nut /
marrette.


Or, even more simply, a double pole (DPST) switch. Bob
  #7  
Old July 28th 09, 04:52 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 46
Default Drill press switch query

Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires,
though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other
appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're
connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would
they be connected *to*?


Was the original switch lighted when on? If so, the light would need the
neutral.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:55:00 -0400, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Terry wrote:
Actual metalworking content...

Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and
the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen
again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are
*four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two.
Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector.
One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's
the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the
machine is plugged in.

My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please?

Best -- Terry


Try unplugging the cord and removing the remainder of the switch.

Wrap electrical tape around the spade connector with the two red wires
on it to insulate it.

Connect the two black wires together and plug in the cord. If the motor
runs, then you can unplug it, disconnect the two black wires and route
them through that 15A wall switch you mentioned.

Jeff


Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires,
though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other
appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're
connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would
they be connected *to*?

Not that it matters. I'm drilling again. No worries.

Thanks again -- Terry



  #8  
Old July 28th 09, 04:59 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 177
Default Drill press switch query

Terry wrote:
On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 17:55:00 -0400, jeff_wisnia
wrote:


Terry wrote:

Actual metalworking content...

Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and
the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen
again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are
*four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two.
Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector.
One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's
the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the
machine is plugged in.

My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please?

Best -- Terry


Try unplugging the cord and removing the remainder of the switch.

Wrap electrical tape around the spade connector with the two red wires
on it to insulate it.

Connect the two black wires together and plug in the cord. If the motor
runs, then you can unplug it, disconnect the two black wires and route
them through that 15A wall switch you mentioned.

Jeff



Thanks Jeff! That did it. I'm still wondering about the red wires,
though. One appears to be the neutral from the plug, the other
appears to be the neutral to the motor. It makes sense that they're
connected to one another, of course, but what (in the switch) would
they be connected *to*?

Not that it matters. I'm drilling again. No worries.

Thanks again -- Terry


Did the original switch by any chance have a bulb or LED in it which lit
when the motor was turned on? That would require that the neutral be
available there.

That's just a WAG. other than that I can't think of why those wires
would be needed at the switch. An autopsy of the switch body might
reveal something, but to me the essence of pragmatism has always been
expressed as, "If it works, use it and stop worrying about it."

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
  #9  
Old July 28th 09, 01:57 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 793
Default Drill press switch query

My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please?


Seems irrelevant at this point, but make and model?
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill

V8013-R



  #10  
Old July 28th 09, 02:40 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,468
Default Drill press switch query

On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 16:29:06 -0500, the renowned Terry
wrote:

Actual metalworking content...

Was drilling a hole with my ElCheapo brand floor model drill press and
the red plastic of the rocker switch popped out, never to be seen
again. Unscrewed the panel to the switch and lo-and-behold, there are
*four* wires connected (via spade connectors) to this switch, not two.
Two wires are red and are fastened to the same female spade connector.
One is black and if my voltmeter knows what it's talking about, it's
the hot wire. The fourth wire is black and is not hot when the
machine is plugged in.

My plan *was* to replace the switch with an ordinary 15A wall switch
but that doesn't sound like a good idea anymore. Help, please?

Best -- Terry


Probably the two red wires are the neutral and a DPST switch (requird
for switching two hot lines for overseas safety agency approvals) has
one side just used as a tie point. Is there an unconnected spade on
the switch, beside the two red wires?

So you should be able to put your new switch between the two black
wires and just leave the red wires tied to each other (and nowhere
else).




Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 




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