[Tom Quackenbush[_3_]]

My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.

I'll be using it for cutting or drillling iron/steel.

What's the difference? For Harry homeowner, does it matter?

R,
Tom Q.l

[Robert Swinney]

The heavy black sulfurized stuff is hightly recommended as a replacement for the oil lard oil used
in the past. I have never found a source for real lard oil so I have no basis for comparison. The
black stuff works pretty well on threading. Don't ask me if I think it is worth the mess.

Bob (don't say Crisco or bacon fat) Swinney
"Tom Quackenbush" wrote in message
news My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.

I'll be using it for cutting or drillling iron/steel.

What's the difference? For Harry homeowner, does it matter?

R,
Tom Q.l

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

[W. Stief]

Tom Quackenbush wrote:
My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.

I'll be using it for cutting or drillling iron/steel.

What's the difference? For Harry homeowner, does it matter?

R,
Tom Q.l

Seems to be the good stuff:

Ingredient # 01
Ingredient Name HYDROCARBON OILS
CAS Number 1003
Proprietary NO
Percent 0
Ingredient # 02
Ingredient Name SULFUR COMPOUNDS
CAS Number 1003
Proprietary NO
Percent 0
Ingredient # 03
Ingredient Name CHLORINATED PARAFFINS
CAS Number 1003
Proprietary NO
Percent 0

[Michael Koblic]

FWIW (I have no qualifications to speak of except enthusiasm and experience
acquired through a string of failures), I use Rapid Tap for both tapping and
drilling. It seems to do the trick on holes up to 3/8" (I seldom do any
bigger).

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

"Tom Quackenbush" wrote in message
news
My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.

I'll be using it for cutting or drillling iron/steel.

What's the difference? For Harry homeowner, does it matter?

R,
Tom Q.l

[Brian Lawson]

Hey Michael,

Rapid Tap (trade name) is great stuff, but it gives off a less than
desirable plume of fumes if "heated", as by drilling or turning, so
watch out.

One of the Rapid Tap products is labeled as being "non-staining" for
Aluminum. I've never seen the difference when it is used on anything
else, so that is what I use. Same problem with the smoke though!.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX


On Fri, 4 Jul 2008 21:00:14 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:

FWIW (I have no qualifications to speak of except enthusiasm and experience
acquired through a string of failures), I use Rapid Tap for both tapping and
drilling. It seems to do the trick on holes up to 3/8" (I seldom do any
bigger).

[Jim Wilkins]

On Jul 4, 8:45*pm, Tom Quackenbush wrote:
* My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.

* I'll be using it for cutting or drillling *iron/steel.

* What's the difference? For Harry homeowner, does it matter?

R,
Tom Q.l

It seems to be a little better than Crown cutting oil from MSC but not
nearly as good as the fancy tapping fluids.

[Michael Koblic]

"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
...
Hey Michael,

Rapid Tap (trade name) is great stuff, but it gives off a less than
desirable plume of fumes if "heated", as by drilling or turning, so
watch out.

One of the Rapid Tap products is labeled as being "non-staining" for
Aluminum. I've never seen the difference when it is used on anything
else, so that is what I use. Same problem with the smoke though!.


Would that explain the visions I have been having lately?

[Tom Gardner[_2_]]

"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
...
Hey Michael,

Rapid Tap (trade name) is great stuff, but it gives off a less than
desirable plume of fumes if "heated", as by drilling or turning, so
watch out.

One of the Rapid Tap products is labeled as being "non-staining" for
Aluminum. I've never seen the difference when it is used on anything
else, so that is what I use. Same problem with the smoke though!.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

If you're not smokin', you're doing it wrong! It's the color of the smoke that
counts.


On Fri, 4 Jul 2008 21:00:14 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:

FWIW (I have no qualifications to speak of except enthusiasm and experience
acquired through a string of failures), I use Rapid Tap for both tapping and
drilling. It seems to do the trick on holes up to 3/8" (I seldom do any
bigger).

[Jim Wilkins]

On Jul 5, 4:44*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
Same problem with the smoke though!.
Would that explain the visions I have been having lately?

Wash off your safety glasses???

[[email protected]]

On Jul 4, 6:45*pm, Tom Quackenbush wrote:
* My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.

* I'll be using it for cutting or drillling *iron/steel.

* What's the difference? For Harry homeowner, does it matter?

R,
Tom Q.l

The dark stuff has more sulfur in it, eases cutting threads on steel/
iron pipe with pipe dies. Also reacts with aluminum, so don't use it
for cutting that. A good choice for dabbing on a steel workpiece.
Expensive and messy for coolant setups, have seen it used, though.
When the workpiece gets hot, it smokes, other inhabitants may not
appreciate it. I use it all the time for drilling and tapping harder
steels, like guns.

Usually the clear cutting oils rely more on chlorine, kind of does the
same job, not as effective, in my opinion, for hand uses on hard
steels. This stuff also reacts with aluminum, usually more
vigorously.

Lard oil is another good choice, should you find an old-timey hardware
store that carries it. Can be found in some of the "green" mixes,
it's biodegradeable.

Stan

[Jim Wilkins]

On Jul 4, 10:31*pm, "Robert Swinney" wrote:
...I have never found a source for real lard oil so I have no basis for comparison. *

Grocery store, ethnic food shelves.

[Tom Quackenbush[_3_]]

W. Stief wrote:
Tom Quackenbush wrote:

My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.
snip

Seems to be the good stuff:

Ingredient # 01
Ingredient Name HYDROCARBON OILS
CAS Number 1003
Proprietary NO
Percent 0
Ingredient # 02
Ingredient Name SULFUR COMPOUNDS
CAS Number 1003
Proprietary NO
Percent 0
Ingredient # 03
Ingredient Name CHLORINATED PARAFFINS
CAS Number 1003
Proprietary NO
Percent 0

Thanks for finding that, that makes me feel better about buying it.
R,
Tom Q.

[Tom Quackenbush[_3_]]

Michael Koblic wrote:

FWIW (I have no qualifications to speak of except enthusiasm and experience
acquired through a string of failures), I use Rapid Tap for both tapping and
drilling. It seems to do the trick on holes up to 3/8" (I seldom do any
bigger).

Thanks, Michael, I'll keep an eye out for it.

You've probably got me beat in the enthusiasm department, but I'll
bet that my string of failures would compare pretty favorably (?) with
those of anyone here. g

R,
Tom Q.

[Tom Quackenbush[_3_]]

Jim Wilkins wrote:
Tom Quackenbush wrote:
* My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.
snip

It seems to be a little better than Crown cutting oil from MSC but not
nearly as good as the fancy tapping fluids.

Thanks, Jim. Sounsds like it's good enough for the likes of me. I'll
keep an eye peeled for the fancy stuff, though.

R,
Tom Q.

[Tom Quackenbush[_3_]]

Stan wrote wrote:

The dark stuff has more sulfur in it, eases cutting threads on steel/
iron pipe with pipe dies. Also reacts with aluminum, so don't use it
for cutting that. A good choice for dabbing on a steel workpiece.
Expensive and messy for coolant setups, have seen it used, though.
When the workpiece gets hot, it smokes, other inhabitants may not
appreciate it. I use it all the time for drilling and tapping harder
steels, like guns.

Usually the clear cutting oils rely more on chlorine, kind of does the
same job, not as effective, in my opinion, for hand uses on hard
steels. This stuff also reacts with aluminum, usually more
vigorously.

Lard oil is another good choice, should you find an old-timey hardware
store that carries it. Can be found in some of the "green" mixes,
it's biodegradeable.


Thanks, Stan. It sounds like what I've got should be fine for the
use I'll put it to.

Screw the other inhabitants. g There's plenty for the cat & dog to
do outdoors.

I generally use kerosene (sometimes mineral spirits or WD-40) for
aluminum anyway, but I appreciate the warning.

R,
Tom Q.