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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"SteveB" wrote in message ... I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is snip Kroil |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"SteveB" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message news It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it. Steve Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane heaters. Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had (no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap. And all in a pair of good slacks, too. Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****." Steve I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW in anticipation of the next adventure. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
SteveB wrote:
I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a 3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique. Steve Spray some "PB Blaster" on it. Good stuff. Randy |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, SteveB wrote:
I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique. Kroil is the best penetrant I've ever used. I've also heard good things about LPS's product but haven't used it myself. LPS may be easier to find depending on your location. |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is
threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a 3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique. Steve |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"SteveB" wrote: (clip) Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1.) Grind a flat on the stub end where you have been applying the Vise-grips. 2.) Carefully center punch the flat. 3.) Using a small drill, start a hole, and point the drill to correct any remaining centering error. 4.) Drill through the broken stub, using increasingly larger drill bits, until you have removed most of the stub. Stop when your drill starts to touch the threads on the turnbuckle body. 5.) Clean out the remaining shreds with a tap. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"SteveB" quickly quoth: I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a 3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique. Spray liquid freon (or other chiller spray) on the threaded section, immediately apply pinpoint flame to the turnbuckle at the joint, spray the threads with Kroil, and then turn. Be sure to use some aluminum anti-seize compound on the replacement. -- Seen on a bumper sticker: ARM THE HOMELESS |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote: I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a 3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique. Steve Heat it to bright red, let it cool. That has a way of busting rust like no penetrant can do. Don't try to twist it while it's red, you'll just twist it off. You can try twisting on it when it's still hot but no longer showing any color. This nearly always works for me. On the rare occasions where it doesn't, then I soak it in Kroil for a day or so. The heat-cool cycle creates some micro-cracks in the rust that the Kroil can get into. |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, "SteveB" wrote: I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a 3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique. Steve Heat it to bright red, let it cool. That has a way of busting rust like no penetrant can do. Don't try to twist it while it's red, you'll just twist it off. You can try twisting on it when it's still hot but no longer showing any color. This nearly always works for me. On the rare occasions where it doesn't, then I soak it in Kroil for a day or so. The heat-cool cycle creates some micro-cracks in the rust that the Kroil can get into. Id have a go from the otherend. Id cut a screwdriver slot in the inner bolt end ( assuming you can get to it), put your screwdriver through the other end of theturnbuckle into the slot. heat the siezed end red hot with a smallhot flame whilst turning the screwdriver. It should come loose Keep going back and forth till its free enogh for you to turn some more thread out. Then go back to using your mole grips to finally remove. |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did stop
and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it. Steve |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"SteveB" wrote in message news It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it. Steve Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane heaters. Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had (no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap. And all in a pair of good slacks, too. Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****." Steve |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 15:44:44 -0800, SteveB penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.crafts.metalworking: It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it. Steve What ever happened to the fine art of drilling out a broken threaded fastener? This one was in the tuning fork portion of a turnbuckle. Only about 1/4" was sticking out. The rest was between the forks of the buckle. Getting it chucked up and perfectly straight might not be a big deal for someone. Just not me. Steve |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
Dave Hinz wrote:
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, SteveB wrote: I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique. Kroil is the best penetrant I've ever used. I've also heard good things about LPS's product but haven't used it myself. LPS may be easier to find depending on your location. Yep, Kroil is great. I ordered a gallon based on recommendations here and I love it. |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message news It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it. Steve Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane heaters. Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had (no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap. And all in a pair of good slacks, too. Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****." Steve I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW in anticipation of the next adventure. If Kroil is better than Blaster, I need some. Steve |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"Pete C." wrote in message ... Dave Hinz wrote: On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, SteveB wrote: I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique. Kroil is the best penetrant I've ever used. I've also heard good things about LPS's product but haven't used it myself. LPS may be easier to find depending on your location. Yep, Kroil is great. I ordered a gallon based on recommendations here and I love it. I really need to give credit where credit is due here. I heated it up, and then put 3 in 1 oil on it and let it sit. Then I hit it with Blaster when it was cold and let that sit for fifteen minutes. It might have come loose with the 3 in 1 and been ready to move. But I got two new bullets in my bandoleer, so I'm happy. A lot of times in such situations, there is NO solution. It's a coin flip. It'll work or it goes in the trash. But when there's a chance to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, one final try, it's nice to give it your best shot of whatever you got. It's also nice when it works. Steve |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
Lemme get this straight. I saw some stuff today made by Pyroil.
Same or not the same as Kroil? Steve |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"SteveB" wrote in message ... snip---- A lot of times in such situations, there is NO solution. It's a coin flip. It'll work or it goes in the trash. But when there's a chance to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, one final try, it's nice to give it your best shot of whatever you got. It's also nice when it works. That it is. Next time you face a similar situation, and the part can be placed in a small container, lose all those other methods and soak the item in Coke, or other cola drink. Even 7-Up. The phosphoric acid will dissolve the corrosion, allowing the parts to be taken apart with fingers. Penetrating oil may lubricate the joint, but it does little towards actually dissolving the crud that makes things stick. Wash with solvent first if the parts are oily. Harold |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:42:17 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"SteveB" quickly quoth: Lemme get this straight. I saw some stuff today made by Pyroil. Same or not the same as Kroil? Not even. Kroil is made by Kano Labs. Eastwood also sells it. http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ It looks like they're having a sale on it right now, too. Two 16.5 oz Industrial size cans for $16, including shipping to your door. Such a deal! -- Seen on a bumper sticker: ARM THE HOMELESS |
#19
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:25:22 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote: "Tom Gardner" wrote in message .. . "SteveB" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message news It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it. Steve Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane heaters. Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had (no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap. And all in a pair of good slacks, too. Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****." Steve I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW in anticipation of the next adventure. If Kroil is better than Blaster, I need some. Steve http://www.kanolabs.com/ |
#20
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
On Dec 16, 4:09 pm, "Tom Gardner" wrote:
I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW in anticipation of the next adventure. Kroil can be found at the local auto parts store here. I have never seen it at any other store. Dan |
#21
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
SteveB wrote:
If Kroil is better than Blaster, I need some. I'm not so sure. I used PB Blaster for some time, 'cause I could get it locally, at a reasonable price. But the crowd here said that Kroil was better, so I bought some (more $). In using it I really don't see a difference. There's a huge problem in comparing rust busters. It's always apples and oranges situations - the rusted bolts, etc are never the same. So you can't do comparison tests. Measurements are another problem - if you can't quantify it, you don't have anything. Ideally, you'd take 2 identically rusted bolts, apply the rust busters, wait the same time, and measure the torque it took to move each. In lieu of "2 identically rusted bolts", you could do it statistically, in batches of 30 or so. If someone does this, please let us know. I have a lot of other things that I'd rather do. Bob |
#22
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message . net... "SteveB" wrote in message ... snip---- A lot of times in such situations, there is NO solution. It's a coin flip. It'll work or it goes in the trash. But when there's a chance to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, one final try, it's nice to give it your best shot of whatever you got. It's also nice when it works. That it is. Next time you face a similar situation, and the part can be placed in a small container, lose all those other methods and soak the item in Coke, or other cola drink. Even 7-Up. The phosphoric acid will dissolve the corrosion, allowing the parts to be taken apart with fingers. Penetrating oil may lubricate the joint, but it does little towards actually dissolving the crud that makes things stick. Wash with solvent first if the parts are oily. Harold Never would have thought of that. I have some old license plates that go back to the twenties. They sell a phosphoric acid solution for soaking them, but it's spendy. I'll try a soak in a Coke. Steve |
#23
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"Tom Gardner" wrote:
Kroil A religious war may be starting soon... Boss has the flammable cabinet full of PB blaster. Boss is alway right you know. VBG Wes |
#24
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"SteveB" wrote:
Never would have thought of that. I have some old license plates that go back to the twenties. They sell a phosphoric acid solution for soaking them, but it's spendy. I'll try a soak in a Coke. iirc, naval jelly is phosporic acid. Don't use in an enclosed area with your other shiny bits of metal since the fumes will cause rust. Wes |
#25
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Removing frozen bolt
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:42:17 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote: Lemme get this straight. I saw some stuff today made by Pyroil. Same or not the same as Kroil? Steve Different, but their heat rizer valve solvent used to be EXCELLENT. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#26
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 10:48:59 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote: "Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message .net... "SteveB" wrote in message ... snip---- A lot of times in such situations, there is NO solution. It's a coin flip. It'll work or it goes in the trash. But when there's a chance to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, one final try, it's nice to give it your best shot of whatever you got. It's also nice when it works. That it is. Next time you face a similar situation, and the part can be placed in a small container, lose all those other methods and soak the item in Coke, or other cola drink. Even 7-Up. The phosphoric acid will dissolve the corrosion, allowing the parts to be taken apart with fingers. Penetrating oil may lubricate the joint, but it does little towards actually dissolving the crud that makes things stick. Wash with solvent first if the parts are oily. Harold Never would have thought of that. I have some old license plates that go back to the twenties. They sell a phosphoric acid solution for soaking them, but it's spendy. I'll try a soak in a Coke. Steve Or go to your plumbing supply and buy Resin Cleaner. Blue stuff - about $16 a gallon and identical to the auto-body stuff that sells for about $90. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#27
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Removing frozen bolt
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I got some back in the eighties. The ad stuff with the oil was really amateur. But the product was good. He is refering to Kroil. Yes the ads put me off for a long time they are atrocious (sp?) but once I used it darn if the ads aren't right. :-) ...lew... |
#28
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:33:42 -0500, Wes wrote:
"SteveB" wrote: Never would have thought of that. I have some old license plates that go back to the twenties. They sell a phosphoric acid solution for soaking them, but it's spendy. I'll try a soak in a Coke. iirc, naval jelly is phosporic acid. Don't use in an enclosed area with your other shiny bits of metal since the fumes will cause rust. Wes Phosphoric fumes don't cause rust. Not like muriatic or sulphuric. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#29
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 04:57:19 -0800, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
Not even. Kroil is made by Kano Labs. Eastwood also sells it. http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ It looks like they're having a sale on it right now, too. Two 16.5 oz Industrial size cans for $16, including shipping to your door. Such a deal! Thanks for that, Larry. Just ordered a pair, I was getting low. |
#30
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
Another product that seems to work really good is Mopar Penetrating Oil,
available from the parts department of any Dodge or Chry dealer. We use it along with Kroil in our Community College Automotive courses . If you want to cool/shrink a part, CRC makes a spray that cools or freezes small items. I've found it at Pep Boys for ~$6. "SteveB" wrote in message ... "Tom Gardner" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message news It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it. Steve Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane heaters. Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had (no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap. And all in a pair of good slacks, too. Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****." Steve I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW in anticipation of the next adventure. If Kroil is better than Blaster, I need some. Steve |
#31
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Removing frozen bolt
On Dec 16, 12:16 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is Steve I read in one of my magazines that a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid beat out WD, PB, and Kroil in a fairly well controlled test. Acetone is a great solvent and ATF is the slimiest stuff going! I made some up and it seems to work pretty well so far. Cheaper than the aresol sprays. I put mine in a pump oiler, You have to be careful as acetone "eats" many plastics. Sam |
#32
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Removing frozen bolt
On 2007-12-17, SteveB wrote:
"Pete C." wrote in message ... [ ... ] Yep, Kroil is great. I ordered a gallon based on recommendations here and I love it. I really need to give credit where credit is due here. I heated it up, and then put 3 in 1 oil on it and let it sit. Then I hit it with Blaster when it was cold and let that sit for fifteen minutes. It might have come loose with the 3 in 1 and been ready to move. But I got two new bullets in my bandoleer, so I'm happy. 3 in 1 is *not* an oil, and certainly not a penetrating oil, which is what you needed. What it *is* is furniture polish in an oil can. :-) So -- you can freely give all of the credit to the Kroil. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#33
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"SteveB" wrote in message ... I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a 3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique. Steve In a case like this where you have a relatively thin outer section, placing the turnbuckle on an anvil and hammering on it will stretch the outer metal enough to loosen it. This is an additional technique which can be aided by heat and penetrating oil. I was shown this by an old plumber as a way to free frozen pipe threads and I have never had it fail where the outer metal is suitably shaped and I could get good hammer blows with solid backup. Try it some time when you have a loose bolt with a badly rusted nut on it. Don Young |
#34
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt/ kroil ads
I have also been very happy with PB Blaster.
i |
#35
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
Sounds like a good idea, as long as the part is not cast iron.
Pete Stanaitis -------------------------------- In a case like this where you have a relatively thin outer section, placing the turnbuckle on an anvil and hammering on it will stretch the outer metal enough to loosen it. This is an additional technique which can be aided by heat and penetrating oil. I was shown this by an old plumber as a way to free frozen pipe threads and I have never had it fail where the outer metal is suitably shaped and I could get good hammer blows with solid backup. Try it some time when you have a loose bolt with a badly rusted nut on it. Don Young |
#36
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message ... On 2007-12-17, SteveB wrote: "Pete C." wrote in message ... [ ... ] Yep, Kroil is great. I ordered a gallon based on recommendations here and I love it. I really need to give credit where credit is due here. I heated it up, and then put 3 in 1 oil on it and let it sit. Then I hit it with Blaster when it was cold and let that sit for fifteen minutes. It might have come loose with the 3 in 1 and been ready to move. But I got two new bullets in my bandoleer, so I'm happy. 3 in 1 is *not* an oil, and certainly not a penetrating oil, which is what you needed. What it *is* is furniture polish in an oil can. :-) So -- you can freely give all of the credit to the Kroil. Enjoy, DoN. I did not use Kroil. |
#37
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Removing frozen bolt/ kroil ads
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... "Every ignoramus on RCM uses PB Blaster....." I don't. Harold |
#38
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Removing frozen bolt/ kroil ads
On Tue, 18 Dec 2007 22:57:31 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote: "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... "Every ignoramus on RCM uses PB Blaster....." I don't. Harold I like Lloyds AD2000. Ionic penetrants are fantastic too - have to get the brand off a can at my kid brother's shop. Or the old standby - "Ed's Red". Google it. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
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