"SteveB" wrote in message
...
I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is
snip

Kroil

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
news
It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did
stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find
KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the
piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's
enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to
double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket
in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work,
about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the
threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if
that don't work, I'll toss it.

Steve

Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in
the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle
was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my
drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane
heaters.

Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went
back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had
(no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap.

And all in a pair of good slacks, too.

Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****."

Steve

I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into
blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW in
anticipation of the next adventure.

SteveB wrote:
I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is
threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a
3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed
to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get
hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and
dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing
out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle
and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I
can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants?
Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to
save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Steve





Spray some "PB Blaster" on it. Good stuff.
Randy

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, SteveB wrote:
I heated it a couple of times yesterday and
dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing
out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle
and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I
can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants?
Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to
save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Kroil is the best penetrant I've ever used. I've also heard good things
about LPS's product but haven't used it myself. LPS may be easier to
find depending on your location.

I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is
threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a
3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed
to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get
hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and
dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing
out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle
and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I
can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants?
Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to
save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Steve

"SteveB" wrote: (clip) Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill
this out? (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.) Grind a flat on the stub end where you have been applying the
Vise-grips.
2.) Carefully center punch the flat.
3.) Using a small drill, start a hole, and point the drill to correct any
remaining centering error.
4.) Drill through the broken stub, using increasingly larger drill bits,
until you have removed most of the stub. Stop when your drill starts to
touch the threads on the turnbuckle body.
5.) Clean out the remaining shreds with a tap.

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"SteveB" quickly quoth:

I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is
threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a
3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed
to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get
hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and
dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing
out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle
and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I
can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants?
Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to
save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Spray liquid freon (or other chiller spray) on the threaded section,
immediately apply pinpoint flame to the turnbuckle at the joint, spray
the threads with Kroil, and then turn. Be sure to use some aluminum
anti-seize compound on the replacement.

--
Seen on a bumper sticker: ARM THE HOMELESS

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:

I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is
threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a
3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed
to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get
hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and
dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing
out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle
and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I
can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants?
Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to
save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Steve

Heat it to bright red, let it cool. That has a way of busting rust
like no penetrant can do. Don't try to twist it while it's red, you'll
just twist it off. You can try twisting on it when it's still hot but
no longer showing any color.

This nearly always works for me. On the rare occasions where it
doesn't, then I soak it in Kroil for a day or so. The heat-cool cycle
creates some micro-cracks in the rust that the Kroil can get into.

Don Foreman wrote:
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is
threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a
3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed
to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get
hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and
dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing
out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle
and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I
can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants?
Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to
save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Steve


Heat it to bright red, let it cool. That has a way of busting rust
like no penetrant can do. Don't try to twist it while it's red, you'll
just twist it off. You can try twisting on it when it's still hot but
no longer showing any color.

This nearly always works for me. On the rare occasions where it
doesn't, then I soak it in Kroil for a day or so. The heat-cool cycle
creates some micro-cracks in the rust that the Kroil can get into.



Id have a go from the otherend.
Id cut a screwdriver slot in the inner bolt end ( assuming you can get
to it),
put your screwdriver through the other end of theturnbuckle into the slot.
heat the siezed end red hot with a smallhot flame whilst turning the
screwdriver.
It should come loose
Keep going back and forth till its free enogh for you to turn some more
thread out.
Then go back to using your mole grips to finally remove.

It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did stop
and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL. I'll
try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece sticking
out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the other
end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then see
if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the heat
to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is
to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork
part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it.

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in message
news
It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did
stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL.
I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece
sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on
the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut
it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there.
Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all
I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside
the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work,
I'll toss it.

Steve

Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in the
truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle was
still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my drywall is
drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane heaters.

Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went
back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had
(no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap.

And all in a pair of good slacks, too.

Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****."

Steve

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 15:44:44 -0800, SteveB penned the following well
considered thoughts to the readers of rec.crafts.metalworking:

It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did
stop
and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL.
I'll
try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece
sticking
out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the
other
end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then
see
if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the
heat
to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is
to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork
part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it.

Steve


What ever happened to the fine art of drilling out a broken threaded
fastener?

This one was in the tuning fork portion of a turnbuckle. Only about 1/4"
was sticking out. The rest was between the forks of the buckle. Getting it
chucked up and perfectly straight might not be a big deal for someone. Just
not me.

Steve

Dave Hinz wrote:

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, SteveB wrote:
I heated it a couple of times yesterday and
dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing
out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle
and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I
can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants?
Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to
save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Kroil is the best penetrant I've ever used. I've also heard good things
about LPS's product but haven't used it myself. LPS may be easier to
find depending on your location.

Yep, Kroil is great. I ordered a gallon based on recommendations here
and I love it.

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
news
It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did
stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find
KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that
the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to.
There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver
slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a
universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too.
If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod
to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will
pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it.

Steve

Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in
the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle
was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my
drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane
heaters.

Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went
back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had
(no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap.

And all in a pair of good slacks, too.

Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****."

Steve

I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into
blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW
in anticipation of the next adventure.


If Kroil is better than Blaster, I need some.

Steve

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
Dave Hinz wrote:

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, SteveB
wrote:
I heated it a couple of times yesterday and
dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the
thing
out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the
turnbuckle
and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't
think I
can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants?
Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like
to
save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Kroil is the best penetrant I've ever used. I've also heard good things
about LPS's product but haven't used it myself. LPS may be easier to
find depending on your location.

Yep, Kroil is great. I ordered a gallon based on recommendations here
and I love it.

I really need to give credit where credit is due here. I heated it up, and
then put 3 in 1 oil on it and let it sit. Then I hit it with Blaster when
it was cold and let that sit for fifteen minutes. It might have come loose
with the 3 in 1 and been ready to move. But I got two new bullets in my
bandoleer, so I'm happy.

A lot of times in such situations, there is NO solution. It's a coin flip.
It'll work or it goes in the trash. But when there's a chance to snatch
victory from the jaws of defeat, one final try, it's nice to give it your
best shot of whatever you got.

It's also nice when it works.

Steve

Lemme get this straight. I saw some stuff today made by Pyroil.

Same or not the same as Kroil?

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
snip----


A lot of times in such situations, there is NO solution. It's a coin
flip. It'll work or it goes in the trash. But when there's a chance to
snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, one final try, it's nice to give
it your best shot of whatever you got.

It's also nice when it works.

That it is.

Next time you face a similar situation, and the part can be placed in a
small container, lose all those other methods and soak the item in Coke, or
other cola drink. Even 7-Up. The phosphoric acid will dissolve the
corrosion, allowing the parts to be taken apart with fingers. Penetrating
oil may lubricate the joint, but it does little towards actually dissolving
the crud that makes things stick.

Wash with solvent first if the parts are oily.

Harold

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:42:17 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"SteveB" quickly quoth:

Lemme get this straight. I saw some stuff today made by Pyroil.

Same or not the same as Kroil?

Not even. Kroil is made by Kano Labs. Eastwood also sells it.
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ It looks like they're having a sale
on it right now, too. Two 16.5 oz Industrial size cans for $16,
including shipping to your door. Such a deal!

--
Seen on a bumper sticker: ARM THE HOMELESS

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:25:22 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
.. .

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
news It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did
stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find
KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that
the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to.
There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver
slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a
universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too.
If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod
to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will
pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it.

Steve

Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in
the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle
was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my
drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane
heaters.

Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went
back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had
(no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap.

And all in a pair of good slacks, too.

Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****."

Steve

I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into
blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW
in anticipation of the next adventure.


If Kroil is better than Blaster, I need some.

Steve

http://www.kanolabs.com/

On Dec 16, 4:09 pm, "Tom Gardner" wrote:

I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into
blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW in
anticipation of the next adventure.

Kroil can be found at the local auto parts store here. I have never
seen it at any other store.

Dan

SteveB wrote:
If Kroil is better than Blaster, I need some.

I'm not so sure. I used PB Blaster for some time, 'cause I could get it
locally, at a reasonable price. But the crowd here said that Kroil was
better, so I bought some (more $). In using it I really don't see a
difference.

There's a huge problem in comparing rust busters. It's always apples
and oranges situations - the rusted bolts, etc are never the same. So
you can't do comparison tests. Measurements are another problem - if
you can't quantify it, you don't have anything.

Ideally, you'd take 2 identically rusted bolts, apply the rust busters,
wait the same time, and measure the torque it took to move each. In
lieu of "2 identically rusted bolts", you could do it statistically, in
batches of 30 or so. If someone does this, please let us know. I have
a lot of other things that I'd rather do.

Bob

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
. net...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
snip----


A lot of times in such situations, there is NO solution. It's a coin
flip. It'll work or it goes in the trash. But when there's a chance to
snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, one final try, it's nice to give
it your best shot of whatever you got.

It's also nice when it works.

That it is.

Next time you face a similar situation, and the part can be placed in a
small container, lose all those other methods and soak the item in Coke,
or other cola drink. Even 7-Up. The phosphoric acid will dissolve the
corrosion, allowing the parts to be taken apart with fingers.
Penetrating oil may lubricate the joint, but it does little towards
actually dissolving the crud that makes things stick.

Wash with solvent first if the parts are oily.

Harold


Never would have thought of that. I have some old license plates that go
back to the twenties. They sell a phosphoric acid solution for soaking
them, but it's spendy. I'll try a soak in a Coke.

Steve

"Tom Gardner" wrote:

Kroil

A religious war may be starting soon... Boss has the flammable cabinet full
of PB blaster.

Boss is alway right you know. VBG

Wes

"SteveB" wrote:

Never would have thought of that. I have some old license plates that go
back to the twenties. They sell a phosphoric acid solution for soaking
them, but it's spendy. I'll try a soak in a Coke.


iirc, naval jelly is phosporic acid. Don't use in an enclosed area with
your other shiny bits of metal since the fumes will cause rust.

Wes

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:42:17 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:

Lemme get this straight. I saw some stuff today made by Pyroil.

Same or not the same as Kroil?

Steve

Different, but their heat rizer valve solvent used to be EXCELLENT.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 10:48:59 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
.net...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
snip----


A lot of times in such situations, there is NO solution. It's a coin
flip. It'll work or it goes in the trash. But when there's a chance to
snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, one final try, it's nice to give
it your best shot of whatever you got.

It's also nice when it works.

That it is.

Next time you face a similar situation, and the part can be placed in a
small container, lose all those other methods and soak the item in Coke,
or other cola drink. Even 7-Up. The phosphoric acid will dissolve the
corrosion, allowing the parts to be taken apart with fingers.
Penetrating oil may lubricate the joint, but it does little towards
actually dissolving the crud that makes things stick.

Wash with solvent first if the parts are oily.

Harold


Never would have thought of that. I have some old license plates that go
back to the twenties. They sell a phosphoric acid solution for soaking
them, but it's spendy. I'll try a soak in a Coke.

Steve

Or go to your plumbing supply and buy Resin Cleaner. Blue stuff -
about $16 a gallon and identical to the auto-body stuff that sells for
about $90.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I got some back in the eighties. The ad stuff with the oil was really
amateur. But the product was good.


He is refering to Kroil.

Yes the ads put me off for a long time they are atrocious (sp?)
but once I used it darn if the ads aren't right. :-)
...lew...

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:33:42 -0500, Wes wrote:

"SteveB" wrote:

Never would have thought of that. I have some old license plates that go
back to the twenties. They sell a phosphoric acid solution for soaking
them, but it's spendy. I'll try a soak in a Coke.


iirc, naval jelly is phosporic acid. Don't use in an enclosed area with
your other shiny bits of metal since the fumes will cause rust.

Wes
Phosphoric fumes don't cause rust. Not like muriatic or sulphuric.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 04:57:19 -0800, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:

Not even. Kroil is made by Kano Labs. Eastwood also sells it.
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ It looks like they're having a sale
on it right now, too. Two 16.5 oz Industrial size cans for $16,
including shipping to your door. Such a deal!

Thanks for that, Larry. Just ordered a pair, I was getting low.

Another product that seems to work really good is Mopar Penetrating Oil,
available from the parts department of any Dodge or Chry dealer. We use it
along with Kroil in our Community College Automotive courses .

If you want to cool/shrink a part, CRC makes a spray that cools or freezes
small items. I've found it at Pep Boys for ~$6.


"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
news It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did
stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find
KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that
the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to.
There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver
slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a
universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too.
If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod
to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it
will
pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it.

Steve

Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in
the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The
turnbuckle
was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my
drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane
heaters.

Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn.
Went
back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I
had
(no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap.

And all in a pair of good slacks, too.

Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good ****."

Steve

I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into
blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some
NOW
in anticipation of the next adventure.


If Kroil is better than Blaster, I need some.

Steve

On Dec 16, 12:16 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is
Steve

I read in one of my magazines that a 50/50 mix of acetone and
automatic transmission fluid beat out WD, PB, and Kroil in a fairly
well controlled test. Acetone is a great solvent and ATF is the
slimiest stuff going! I made some up and it seems to work pretty well
so far. Cheaper than the aresol sprays. I put mine in a pump oiler,
You have to be careful as acetone "eats" many plastics.

Sam

On 2007-12-17, SteveB wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
...

[ ... ]

Yep, Kroil is great. I ordered a gallon based on recommendations here
and I love it.

I really need to give credit where credit is due here. I heated it up, and
then put 3 in 1 oil on it and let it sit. Then I hit it with Blaster when
it was cold and let that sit for fifteen minutes. It might have come loose
with the 3 in 1 and been ready to move. But I got two new bullets in my
bandoleer, so I'm happy.

3 in 1 is *not* an oil, and certainly not a penetrating oil,
which is what you needed. What it *is* is furniture polish in an oil
can. :-)

So -- you can freely give all of the credit to the Kroil.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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"SteveB" wrote in message
...
I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is
threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get
a 3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I
managed to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just
barely get hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times
yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't
get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of
the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it,
but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better
penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out?
I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Steve

In a case like this where you have a relatively thin outer section, placing
the turnbuckle on an anvil and hammering on it will stretch the outer metal
enough to loosen it. This is an additional technique which can be aided by
heat and penetrating oil. I was shown this by an old plumber as a way to
free frozen pipe threads and I have never had it fail where the outer metal
is suitably shaped and I could get good hammer blows with solid backup. Try
it some time when you have a loose bolt with a badly rusted nut on it.

Don Young

I have also been very happy with PB Blaster.

i

Sounds like a good idea, as long as the part is not cast iron.

Pete Stanaitis
--------------------------------


In a case like this where you have a relatively thin outer section, placing
the turnbuckle on an anvil and hammering on it will stretch the outer metal
enough to loosen it. This is an additional technique which can be aided by
heat and penetrating oil. I was shown this by an old plumber as a way to
free frozen pipe threads and I have never had it fail where the outer metal
is suitably shaped and I could get good hammer blows with solid backup. Try
it some time when you have a loose bolt with a badly rusted nut on it.

Don Young

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2007-12-17, SteveB wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
...

[ ... ]

Yep, Kroil is great. I ordered a gallon based on recommendations here
and I love it.

I really need to give credit where credit is due here. I heated it up,
and
then put 3 in 1 oil on it and let it sit. Then I hit it with Blaster
when
it was cold and let that sit for fifteen minutes. It might have come
loose
with the 3 in 1 and been ready to move. But I got two new bullets in my
bandoleer, so I'm happy.

3 in 1 is *not* an oil, and certainly not a penetrating oil,
which is what you needed. What it *is* is furniture polish in an oil
can. :-)

So -- you can freely give all of the credit to the Kroil.

Enjoy,
DoN.

I did not use Kroil.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
"Every ignoramus on RCM uses PB Blaster....."

I don't.

Harold

On Tue, 18 Dec 2007 22:57:31 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
"Every ignoramus on RCM uses PB Blaster....."

I don't.

Harold

I like Lloyds AD2000.
Ionic penetrants are fantastic too - have to get the brand off a can
at my kid brother's shop.

Or the old standby - "Ed's Red". Google it.

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