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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
Just wanted to thank everybody who helped me with the motor info and
everything. It's pretty much done: http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler.jpg Just waiting for the motor to show up. Dave |
#2
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
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#3
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
I'm mainly doing 1/4" aluminum round parts, but also some 1" tube and
a few other things. All aluminum. I do thousands of them, so this is a real time saver. Dave |
#4
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On Oct 7, 7:13 pm, wrote:
I'm mainly doing 1/4" aluminum round parts, but also some 1" tube and a few other things. All aluminum. I do thousands of them, so this is a real time saver. Dave Looks good - Are the black ends caps plumbing items. Tim |
#5
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On Oct 7, 10:40 am, TMN wrote:
Are the black ends caps plumbing items. Yes, it's 4" ABS and caps. I would have preferred 6", but I didn't feel like ordering it. I might have to put some texture on the sides to minimize slippage. I'm also going to experiment with materials on the inside walls. You need something that allows the media to stick a little to the sides so you get a good sloshing effect. I'll probably try some of that shower basin liner sheet stuff first. Dave |
#6
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#7
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On Oct 7, 11:20 am, john wrote:
I tumble parts from time to time, mostly stuff that was water jetted plates with a edge on them that has to be removed. I use a 5 gallon bucket with a couple of wood strips screwed from the outside into wood strips on the inside of the bucket. I put the whole thing in a lathe with the tail stock holding the lid on the bucket. That's a good idea... I've thought about using the wings inside and might try that. |
#8
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
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#9
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
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#10
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
Pete C. wrote:
wrote: On Oct 7, 5:08 pm, Gerald Miller wrote: How about an rubber band or section of inner tube (wheelbarrow tire?) around each end cap? Yeah, that could work... I was thinking even hockey tape. Roll on truck bed liner. Hurculiner and some Duplicolor product are readily available. Just snap (say) six Viton O-rings around the pipe, would be my opinion: McMaster.com 5267T299 are $4.36 each in a two-pack, ferinstance. Or you could super-glue O-ring stock to make a custom diameter. --Winston |
#11
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#12
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 19:46:30 GMT, Winston
wrote: Pete C. wrote: wrote: On Oct 7, 5:08 pm, Gerald Miller wrote: How about an rubber band or section of inner tube (wheelbarrow tire?) around each end cap? Yeah, that could work... I was thinking even hockey tape. Roll on truck bed liner. Hurculiner and some Duplicolor product are readily available. Just snap (say) six Viton O-rings around the pipe, would be my opinion: McMaster.com 5267T299 are $4.36 each in a two-pack, ferinstance. Or you could super-glue O-ring stock to make a custom diameter. --Winston Viton is great for high temp, use Buna-N it's cheaper. Polyureathane is the ideal choice for drive belt useage. Thank You, Randy Remove 333 from email address to reply. |
#13
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On Oct 9, 5:45 am, Randy wrote:
Viton is great for high temp, use Buna-N it's cheaper. Polyureathane is the ideal choice for drive belt useage. Speaking of which, I think I screwed up on my pulleys. The ratios are right, but I'm having a hard time finding a belt. Both pulleys are 3L, but the motor one is 1" outer diameter. Which is quite small for bore size. I didn't realize how small until I saw it. I just assumed that if it was a 3L pulley, that a 3L belt would work. But I'm not sure it will bend enough around something that small. Can I just use a flat belt or something? Funny, it's always the projects you thought would be easy that end up tricky. Dave |
#14
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#15
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
Can I just use a flat belt or something?
O ring stock grips the pulleys well - I use it in a fishing rod turning machine. Just cut to length and super glue together. Tim |
#16
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#17
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
Not glass - chards. Use chunks of steel that have a bur.
Cut offs from the saw or swarf from the lathe or mill. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ B.B. wrote: In article . com, wrote: On Oct 7, 10:40 am, TMN wrote: Are the black ends caps plumbing items. Yes, it's 4" ABS and caps. I would have preferred 6", but I didn't feel like ordering it. I might have to put some texture on the sides to minimize slippage. I'm also going to experiment with materials on the inside walls. You need something that allows the media to stick a little to the sides so you get a good sloshing effect. I'll probably try some of that shower basin liner sheet stuff first. Dave How about first tumble something that'll scuff up the inside of the pipe? Maybe a bunch of shattered glass and chain? ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#18
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
Thanks for the help guys... Here's the final final...
http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler2.jpg As it turns out, it doesn't need to have any grip material at all on the edges. I roughed it up with sanding and that was good enough. A normal belt was also good enough. Only thing now is to sort out the inside. It seems to work without any liner, but it's very noisy. I tried using that anti slip shelving stuff taped in a pipe shape, but without gluing it, I think it was just slipping around. Whatever material is used, it will have to be glued in well. It's obviously a very hostile environment to make any glue stay. Ideally what would be great is to have a hatch that opens along the whole length. It's kind of a pain having to dump the stuff out in a bucket, then put the media back in each time. Dave |
#20
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
Split your tube lengthwise and get an "H" shaped gasket to seal the
seams. Use the caps to hold the sides together for rolling, then pull the caps off and lift off the top half to get to your parts. I tried to find an H shaped seal at www.mcmcaster.com but the best I could do is a hollow round seal on top of a U, part 1120A312. You can cut open the round half to make the H shape. You might even make up discs and glue them onto each end on the inside of one tube half and always put that side down when you open the tube, so when you pull the caps your media doesn't spill out the ends. -- Regards, Carl Ijames carl dott ijames aat verizon dott net (remove nospm or make the obvious changes before replying) wrote in message ps.com... Thanks for the help guys... Here's the final final... http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler2.jpg As it turns out, it doesn't need to have any grip material at all on the edges. I roughed it up with sanding and that was good enough. A normal belt was also good enough. Only thing now is to sort out the inside. It seems to work without any liner, but it's very noisy. I tried using that anti slip shelving stuff taped in a pipe shape, but without gluing it, I think it was just slipping around. Whatever material is used, it will have to be glued in well. It's obviously a very hostile environment to make any glue stay. Ideally what would be great is to have a hatch that opens along the whole length. It's kind of a pain having to dump the stuff out in a bucket, then put the media back in each time. Dave |
#21
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
Nice.
How about a bicycle tube - 18" of it or whatever. Use zip ties to squeeze tight. Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ wrote: Thanks for the help guys... Here's the final final... http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler2.jpg As it turns out, it doesn't need to have any grip material at all on the edges. I roughed it up with sanding and that was good enough. A normal belt was also good enough. Only thing now is to sort out the inside. It seems to work without any liner, but it's very noisy. I tried using that anti slip shelving stuff taped in a pipe shape, but without gluing it, I think it was just slipping around. Whatever material is used, it will have to be glued in well. It's obviously a very hostile environment to make any glue stay. Ideally what would be great is to have a hatch that opens along the whole length. It's kind of a pain having to dump the stuff out in a bucket, then put the media back in each time. Dave ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#22
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
wrote:
Thanks for the help guys... Here's the final final... http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler2.jpg Looks nice. As I had noted, roll on truck bed liner would probably make a good interior coating to both quiet things and give a little traction. I think trying to make a linear hatch on something that small diameter would be a frustrating experience with lots of leaks. A tumbler for SCUBA tanks I recently built. http://wpnet.us/tumbler.jpg Pete C. |
#23
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
That's what's great about this NG... Everybody is a real problem
solver. You might be onto something with that split idea Carl. I'll have to look into it. And Pete... Yes, I forgot to mention the spray-on idea you had. I just wasn't quite sure how I was going to get it evenly inside the tube. I learned a little more today... I found rubber end caps that have the stainless bands. I just took off the bands and they work a lot better than the ABS caps. They're easier to get on and off, totally water proof, more quiet, and also provide more friction than you could ever need. In fact, too much friction... They started wearing down the shaft hose. I had to put tape on them to stop the chaffing. They also have these "testing" caps, where they have a cap with a rubber cork below it, and then a screw in the middle to expand the rubber. But those are even with the pipe size, so the whole pipe would be rolling. I'm not a diver... Why do tanks need to be tumbled? I also found this pipe insulation tape to put inside. It's like 2" wide foamy stuff with very sticky backing. I actually didn't think it would stay on, but it's was still stuck perfectly after running it 3 hours. Dave |
#24
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On Thu, 11 Oct 2007 23:13:40 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
quickly quoth: That's what's great about this NG... Everybody is a real problem solver. You might be onto something with that split idea Carl. I'll have to look into it. And Pete... Yes, I forgot to mention the spray-on idea you had. I just wasn't quite sure how I was going to get it evenly inside the tube. I What about the liquid rubber dip stuff? Buy 3 cans and pour it in the tube, rotating it while it coats the inside. Pour the rest back into a can and save it for pliers and other tool handles. http://tinyurl.com/3bhvlu Or try the brush-on rubber membrane goop used for waterproofing under tiles in the shower. http://tinyurl.com/2poufh -- Reading well is one of the great pleasures that solitude can afford you. -- Harold Bloom, O Magazine, April 2003 |
#25
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#26
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On Oct 12, 6:18 am, "Pete C." wrote:
If a tank gets moisture and resulting corrosion inside you tumble them with an abrasive slurry inside to clean them so they can be fully inspected to be sure the corrosion didn't damage the tank enough to make it unsafe (3,000 PSI for the typical aluminum 80cf tanks = potential big boom). That's why I think the truck coating would be good, it's designed to bond tightly and is resilient so it should take some abuse. Ahh... OK, that makes sense. Yeah, I'll checkout the truck stuff when the tape wears out. Larry, I did think about the tool rubber stuff. The guy at the store didn't seem to think it would stick enough though. But that other rubber stuff might be an option. Dave |
#27
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
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#28
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
Not undercoating - the bed liners on pickups that are sprayed on.
Real nice and tough! Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 11:15:42 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, quickly quoth: On Oct 12, 6:18 am, "Pete C." wrote: If a tank gets moisture and resulting corrosion inside you tumble them with an abrasive slurry inside to clean them so they can be fully inspected to be sure the corrosion didn't damage the tank enough to make it unsafe (3,000 PSI for the typical aluminum 80cf tanks = potential big boom). That's why I think the truck coating would be good, it's designed to bond tightly and is resilient so it should take some abuse. Undercoating? Ahh... OK, that makes sense. Yeah, I'll checkout the truck stuff when the tape wears out. Larry, I did think about the tool rubber stuff. The guy at the store didn't seem to think it would stick enough though. But that other rubber stuff might be an option. Scuff the inside of the tube to give it some tooth, then clean it thoroughly with a good solvent. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#29
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
How is your generator doing?
i On 2007-10-17, James Lerch wrote: On Sat, 06 Oct 2007 22:10:49 -0700, wrote: Just wanted to thank everybody who helped me with the motor info and everything. It's pretty much done: http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler.jpg Neat, what are you going to use for media? (that's the part that always made me skip any tumbler / vibratory toys..errr tools) |
#30
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On 2007-10-18, James Lerch wrote:
On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 12:23:12 -0500, Ignoramus27577 wrote: How is your generator doing? So far so good. It does what I hoped it would do (keep the HVAC and Lights running). However, if i had to do it again, I'd select a 4cyl engine. With the single cylinder engine running 60hz @ 1800rpm equals 1 power stroke every 4 cycles. The big flywheel helps smooth this out, but my SmartUPS are too "Smart" and see the fluctuating frequency and refuse to switch over to "utility power" when the HVAC is running. Its not the end of the world, but does require I shut the "data center" down, pull the Smartups out of the loop, and power up the "data center" again... (kinda annoying.) I might look at getting a little 3kw Honda inverter gen to power the "data center" The alternative of course would be to build a 5 cyl radial Diesel to power the genset I have the same problem with my 2 cylinder Onan DJE. I am not 100% sure why my UPSes do not like it. Could be frequency or could be something else. i |
#31
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On 2007-10-18, James Lerch wrote:
On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 09:58:47 -0500, Ignoramus1624 wrote: I have the same problem with my 2 cylinder Onan DJE. I am not 100% sure why my UPSes do not like it. Could be frequency or could be something else. I've done a lot of research and I am confident the issue is the slightly fluctuating frequency between power strokes. If I unload the generator, the Ups will switch to utility power over a fairly wide range of frequencies. 58 - 62hz Jim, thanks for a nice post, I saved it in my archive of notes. It makes total sense. I can live with this issue, but, as you say, it is annoying. i |
#32
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
I've considered all kinds of odd ways to try and "fix" the issue, but
haven't implemented any of them yet because it just works as-is for the most part.. Oh, here's a short list of my "odd" ideas A) Active rotor power control to modulate the output voltage in real time to fix both voltage AND frequency fluctuations. Not a very efficient fix, but I think it might work. B) Mechanical weights on the flywheel that extend during a power stroke, and retract during the compression stroke in an attempt to keep the flywheel rpm constant.. C) Various stupid electro-mechanical tricks to make clean 60hz 120vac @ 1.4Kw at the Smartups outlet 1) Rectify to DC, invert back to AC 2) Dc motor powering small generator 3) several large induction motors with massive flywheels attached to line power... For bonus points, enclose flywheels in a vacuum chamber to reduce losses... You left out my favorite from that discussion on s.e.d, an elliptical and/or offcenter pulley on the motor to maintain constant generator speed. :-) I know the optimum shape would change with load, but it would look so neat. -- Regards, Carl Ijames carl dott ijames aat verizon dott net (remove nospm or make the obvious changes before replying) |
#33
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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
On Oct 17, 10:19 am, James Lerch
Neat, what are you going to use for media? (that's the part that always made me skip anytumbler/ vibratory toys..errr tools) The main parts I'm doing are 1/4" aluminum round pieces. For that, I've found that small river pebbles about 1/8" to 3/16" work best. It's filled with 1/3 pebbles and water, plus a little soap. About 2 hours later they're shinny and smooth. I'm sure walnut shells would make them even better. I've tried a couple larger hollow tubes, but it doesn't work as well on those. I think the tubes fill with the media and the weight makes the parts slam down and get small dents from the media. I ended up using pvc shower basin liner inside. I also switched to using screw tight test plugs on the ends instead of caps. I cut the tops off rubber caps and just used the ring sides on the pipe to work as the gripping surface to turn. |
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