I would like to cut a 1/8" or so slot into the side of pieces of square
tubing on centerline. I want to do 1/2" to 1 1/4" tubing. What would be a
good way to do that for a person who is not a machinist?

Set up a table saw with a fence and an abrasive blade?

Set up a drill press with a fence and a bit (don't know the name) that would
side cut a slot?

Buy a machine for that purpose? How much?

Input, please.

Steve

What kind of quantities? How long are the slots? How much precesion do
you need? What wall thickness? How much burr is allowable?

An abrasive blade in a table saw will do the job but it gets fairly
nasty. Plenty of sparks, hot metal, chance of kickback, and chews up the
saw bearings fairly quickly. Might be OK for a couple of samples, not
your best choice.

A vertical mill with a slotting blade would work, clamping is a bit
tricky, slot length is limited to table travel. You might even get by
with mill/drill for $1000 or so new. You don't want to use an 1/8" end
mill, it will take forever.

An old horizontal mill would make short work of it.

I might mention that if the slot gets very long, the structural
integrity of the tube goes away pretty fast. ESPECIALLY torsional rigidity.




Steve B wrote:
I would like to cut a 1/8" or so slot into the side of pieces of square
tubing on centerline. I want to do 1/2" to 1 1/4" tubing. What would be a
good way to do that for a person who is not a machinist?

Set up a table saw with a fence and an abrasive blade?

Set up a drill press with a fence and a bit (don't know the name) that would
side cut a slot?

Buy a machine for that purpose? How much?

Input, please.

Steve

"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...
What kind of quantities? How long are the slots? How much precesion do you
need? What wall thickness? How much burr is allowable?

An abrasive blade in a table saw will do the job but it gets fairly nasty.
Plenty of sparks, hot metal, chance of kickback, and chews up the saw
bearings fairly quickly. Might be OK for a couple of samples, not your
best choice.

A vertical mill with a slotting blade would work, clamping is a bit
tricky, slot length is limited to table travel. You might even get by with
mill/drill for $1000 or so new. You don't want to use an 1/8" end mill, it
will take forever.

An old horizontal mill would make short work of it.

I might mention that if the slot gets very long, the structural integrity
of the tube goes away pretty fast. ESPECIALLY torsional rigidity.


This .065" slotted tubing will be used to hold pieces of plexiglass,
plastic, and real glass for making "Frank Lloyd Wright" like pieces. The
slotted pieces would be a frame or just holders.

In some cases, the slots would be the length of the tubing, in some cases,
just a slot short enough to insert a portion of the piece.

I also have considered using hardwoods, and routing a slot. That would look
nice, too. And, it would serve as the lead "caning" does in real stained
glass, as I could rout both sides or only one or only a length of slot. A
WHOLE lot easier than doing square tube, but a different finish.

Just bouncing ideas.

Steve.

I don't think you mentioned the material the tubing is made from. Steel
tubing is formed and welded. It is under stress and will either close a
slot somewhat or will open it up more. I am not sure you could ever do
anything to stop it. I know it will usually pinch a saw blade.

If you are using extruded aluminum tubing you may or may not get
movement when it is slotted. I don't know how square brass tubing is
made, but suspect it is also under stress.

Depending on quantity, you may be able to get unwelded tubing made for
you with the slot left as part of the end product of the forming
process.

Interesting project. Good luck.

Paul