Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?

Find an Allen wrench size that just fits the hole. Try the next size larger
that you have (inch or metric). If it does not quite fit (good), hammer it in
the hole (if you have access to be able to do that), then torque the plug out.
FM

(Fdmorrison) wrote in
:




Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?

Find an Allen wrench size that just fits the hole. Try the next size
larger that you have (inch or metric). If it does not quite fit
(good), hammer it in the hole (if you have access to be able to do
that), then torque the plug out. FM



A good tool I've found for this is an appropriate sized Torx bit. They
are usually a bit larger than the allen, and can be driven in with a
hammer like an easy-out. Works well for me.



--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

How about getting a cheap 1/2" short extension bar and grinding
it to fit the kludged up end?

wrote:
Got an old Case loader that's been sitting for a long time.
It has two heavy steel gas tanks welded to the frame. At the bottom of
each tank is a drain; a socket head pipe plug.
Pulled the the first plug with a hex socket,it came out easy.
Along with a quantity of rust, sludge, and old gas.
Went to pull the second plug, and hex won't fit. Someone
has munged the recessed hex trying to get the plug out, instead of a 3/8
hex it is now roughly a 3/8 square.
Tried to turn it with a 3/8 adapter, but there is just a little bit too
much clearance around the adapter.
Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?
Might some kind of epoxy/liquid metal hold the adapter enough to get it
out?

Got an old Case loader that's been sitting for a long time.
It has two heavy steel gas tanks welded to the frame. At the bottom of
each tank is a drain; a socket head pipe plug.
Pulled the the first plug with a hex socket,it came out easy.
Along with a quantity of rust, sludge, and old gas.
Went to pull the second plug, and hex won't fit. Someone
has munged the recessed hex trying to get the plug out, instead of a 3/8
hex it is now roughly a 3/8 square.
Tried to turn it with a 3/8 adapter, but there is just a little bit too
much clearance around the adapter.
Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?
Might some kind of epoxy/liquid metal hold the adapter enough to get it
out?

wrote:
Got an old Case loader that's been sitting for a long time.
It has two heavy steel gas tanks welded to the frame. At the bottom
of each tank is a drain; a socket head pipe plug.
Pulled the the first plug with a hex socket,it came out easy.
Along with a quantity of rust, sludge, and old gas.
Went to pull the second plug, and hex won't fit. Someone
has munged the recessed hex trying to get the plug out, instead of a
3/8 hex it is now roughly a 3/8 square.
Tried to turn it with a 3/8 adapter, but there is just a little bit
too much clearance around the adapter.
Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?
Might some kind of epoxy/liquid metal hold the adapter enough to get
it out?

I took out one of my diesel injector sleeves using JB Weld and an old
socket.

wrote in message ...
Got an old Case loader that's been sitting for a long time.
It has two heavy steel gas tanks welded to the frame. At the bottom of
each tank is a drain; a socket head pipe plug.
Pulled the the first plug with a hex socket,it came out easy.
Along with a quantity of rust, sludge, and old gas.
Went to pull the second plug, and hex won't fit. Someone
has munged the recessed hex trying to get the plug out, instead of a 3/8
hex it is now roughly a 3/8 square.
Tried to turn it with a 3/8 adapter, but there is just a little bit too
much clearance around the adapter.
Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?
Might some kind of epoxy/liquid metal hold the adapter enough to get it
out?

Sounds like it might have been changed with one of the plumbing types
instead of the SAE. Probably drill it and try an EZout, but be
careful with that, nothing more miserable to try to get out than a
broken ezout. might try a larger size of square stock, ground to fit
and see if a little hammering on it might help. Good luck.

In article ,
Anthony wrote:

(Fdmorrison) wrote in
:




Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?

Find an Allen wrench size that just fits the hole. Try the next size
larger that you have (inch or metric). If it does not quite fit
(good), hammer it in the hole (if you have access to be able to do
that), then torque the plug out. FM



A good tool I've found for this is an appropriate sized Torx bit. They
are usually a bit larger than the allen, and can be driven in with a
hammer like an easy-out. Works well for me.

Good idea, but FIRST light up a torch and put it inside the hex opening.
It won't take much, just a few seconds, but when it cools the plug will
come out much easier.

--
free men own guns - slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

If all the above ideas fail,

Weld a nut to the plug. The heat will loosen it and now you got a place the
put a wrench on it.

Karl

I'd try hammering in a torx bit or another tool that is close to the
same shape. I've heard of people having good luck with that JB Cold
Weld - I have two tubes but haven't used it yet myself.

I'd be real nervous about welding on a fuel tank that may have fumes
even though the gas is old.

On Fri, 06 Feb 2004 18:52:39 -0600, wrote:

Got an old Case loader that's been sitting for a long time.
It has two heavy steel gas tanks welded to the frame. At the bottom of
each tank is a drain; a socket head pipe plug.
Pulled the the first plug with a hex socket,it came out easy.
Along with a quantity of rust, sludge, and old gas.
Went to pull the second plug, and hex won't fit. Someone
has munged the recessed hex trying to get the plug out, instead of a 3/8
hex it is now roughly a 3/8 square.
Tried to turn it with a 3/8 adapter, but there is just a little bit too
much clearance around the adapter.
Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?
Might some kind of epoxy/liquid metal hold the adapter enough to get it
out?

Nick Hull wrote:

In article ,
Anthony wrote:



(Fdmorrison) wrote in
:








Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?


Find an Allen wrench size that just fits the hole. Try the next size
larger that you have (inch or metric). If it does not quite fit
(good), hammer it in the hole (if you have access to be able to do
that), then torque the plug out. FM




A good tool I've found for this is an appropriate sized Torx bit. They
are usually a bit larger than the allen, and can be driven in with a
hammer like an easy-out. Works well for me.



Good idea, but FIRST light up a torch and put it inside the hex opening.
It won't take much, just a few seconds, but when it cools the plug will
come out much easier.



Uh, the OP did say those were gas tanks.....And there was "old gas" in
the other tank.

Probably nothing would happen, but I'd be chicken to take a torch to
it...Cluck ..

Jeff

--
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"My luck is so bad that if I bought a cemetery, people would stop dying."

Karl Townsend wrote:

If all the above ideas fail,

Weld a nut to the plug. The heat will loosen it and now you got a place the
put a wrench on it.

Karl





See my previous comment about using a torch...

He said it was a GAS TANK, remember?

Jeff

--
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"My luck is so bad that if I bought a cemetery, people would stop dying."

Jeff Wisnia wrote: Uh, the OP did say those were gas tanks.....And there was "old gas" in the other tank.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The heating idea is so good that I am trying to think how to make it safe. Not only will heating break down some of the bond in the threads, making them release more easily, it will also expand the hole in the plug, so that on cooling, the Torx wrench will really the tightly held.

So, how about syphoning out the gas, and filling the tank with water. Or old crank-case oil, which will be miscible with the gasoline. Gasoline will float on water, and could still be dangerous, but diluted with oil, it ought to be pretty hard to light. Another idea is to run the exhaust from a small engine into the tank with a hose, and run it for 15-30 minutes. I know of a welding shop that does this when they weld gas-tanks.

Maybe try throwing in a few lumps of dry ice, which will fill the space with CO2.

Jeff Wisnia wrote: See my previous comment about using a torch...
^^^^^^^^^^^^
And my response to it. Leo

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
Nick Hull wrote:

In article ,
Anthony wrote:



(Fdmorrison) wrote in
:








Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?


Find an Allen wrench size that just fits the hole. Try the next size
larger that you have (inch or metric). If it does not quite fit
(good), hammer it in the hole (if you have access to be able to do
that), then torque the plug out. FM




A good tool I've found for this is an appropriate sized Torx bit. They
are usually a bit larger than the allen, and can be driven in with a
hammer like an easy-out. Works well for me.



Good idea, but FIRST light up a torch and put it inside the hex opening.
It won't take much, just a few seconds, but when it cools the plug will
come out much easier.



Uh, the OP did say those were gas tanks.....And there was "old gas" in
the other tank.

Probably nothing would happen, but I'd be chicken to take a torch to
it...Cluck ..

Jeff

--
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"My luck is so bad that if I bought a cemetery, people would stop dying."


Using a torch on a gas tank full of gas, old or new, sounds bad. Is using
a drill any better? When the drill penetrates the gas will come flooding
out all over the drill. Every drill that I know of uses brushes. There
is continual sparking as the drill runs. A pneumatic drill might be better
but there could be sparks at the drill bit.

If all of the methods of gripping the plug fail, either the torch or the
dill
sound too dangerous.

If he pumps the tank empty of as much gas as possible then fills it with
water to float any remaining gas out then blow the fumes out for a few days
it should be safe to drill or cut with a torch.

Pete.

On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 10:34:27 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:
If all the above ideas fail,

Weld a nut to the plug. The heat will loosen it and now you got a place the
put a wrench on it.


See my previous comment about using a torch...

He said it was a GAS TANK, remember?

Yeah, so? He's not going to be welding *inside* the tank
or *through* the tank wall. He said the gas is old, so most
of the lighter volatiles will have already evaporated. The
tank isn't going to get very hot while just welding a nut on
the plug. The arc will be well away from the tank vent.
No more dangerous than any other welding done on a
vehicle with a gas tank.

Gary

On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 07:23:40 -0500, Nick Hull
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

ummmm..... petrola is involved here...

I know this will start an endless fight about ratios, risks and such,
but you are suggesting playing high temps across a gas plug. Given the
ability of fools to overcome foolproof systems, this is risky.

It is certainly one possible way to pull the plug.

Good idea, but FIRST light up a torch and put it inside the hex opening.
It won't take much, just a few seconds, but when it cools the plug will
come out much easier.

************************************************** ** sorry
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Spike....Spike? Hello?

On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 12:44:52 GMT, "Karl Townsend"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

Weld. Gas tank.

If all the above ideas fail,

Weld a nut to the plug. The heat will loosen it and now you got a place the
put a wrench on it.

Karl



************************************************** ** sorry
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Spike....Spike? Hello?

On Fri, 06 Feb 2004 18:52:39 -0600, vaguely proposed a
theory
.......and in reply I say!:

a (3/8) open-ended spanner that fits?

make one?

the glue will not work.

hit it a couple of times. it may mamke it easier.

maybe use a cold chisel or whatver. Tap at an angle to loosen.

Got an old Case loader that's been sitting for a long time.
It has two heavy steel gas tanks welded to the frame. At the bottom of
each tank is a drain; a socket head pipe plug.
Pulled the the first plug with a hex socket,it came out easy.
Along with a quantity of rust, sludge, and old gas.
Went to pull the second plug, and hex won't fit. Someone
has munged the recessed hex trying to get the plug out, instead of a 3/8
hex it is now roughly a 3/8 square.
Tried to turn it with a 3/8 adapter, but there is just a little bit too
much clearance around the adapter.
Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?
Might some kind of epoxy/liquid metal hold the adapter enough to get it
out?

************************************************** ** sorry
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Spike....Spike? Hello?

Old Nick wrote in
:

On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 07:23:40 -0500, Nick Hull
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

ummmm..... petrola is involved here...

I know this will start an endless fight about ratios, risks and such,
but you are suggesting playing high temps across a gas plug. Given the
ability of fools to overcome foolproof systems, this is risky.

It is certainly one possible way to pull the plug.

"PERMANENTLY"




--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

George wrote:

I'd try hammering in a torx bit or another tool that is close to the
same shape. I've heard of people having good luck with that JB Cold
Weld - I have two tubes but haven't used it yet myself.

I'd be real nervous about welding on a fuel tank that may have fumes
even though the gas is old.


First off, my thanks to all of those who responded with ideas, all of
which were helpful.

I ended up grinding down a half inch extension to a fairly tight fit in
the munged up
hole. PB blasted the threads on the plug four or five times.
Hammered the extension in, attached an 18 inch breaker bar, and
went to turn it. Unfortunately the corners on the inside of the plug
started to
turn up and out and the plug itself never moved. The recess in the plug
is
fairly shallow.
I think someone must have tightened the hell out of this plug years ago.
The tanks are 3/16 steel plate, and the plug is mounted in a very heavy
boss.
I think that an impact extension could be mig-welded into the plug
and it could be turned.

The only problem might be my hands shaking too bad to get a decent bead.

My neighbor said: "Go on and weld the damn thing. Hell, she aint goin'
to make but one bang!".

On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 21:29:50 -0500, Gary Coffman
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

hmmmm...good luck!

When I do anything sparky near petrol, I lay wet cloths all over the
place between my work and any petrolly bits at the very least. This is
a bit difficult when actually welding the tank.

Syphon out. Fill with water. Why risk it for a half hour's work?

Yeah, so? He's not going to be welding *inside* the tank
or *through* the tank wall. He said the gas is old, so most
of the lighter volatiles will have already evaporated. The
tank isn't going to get very hot while just welding a nut on
the plug. The arc will be well away from the tank vent.
No more dangerous than any other welding done on a
vehicle with a gas tank.

Gary

************************************************** ** sorry

..........no I'm not!
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Spike....Spike? Hello?

In article
,
"Leo Lichtman" wrote:

Jeff Wisnia wrote: Uh, the OP did say those were gas tanks.....And there
was "old gas" in the other tank.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The heating idea is so good that I am trying to think how to make it safe.
Not only will heating break down some of the bond in the threads, making
them release more easily, it will also expand the hole in the plug, so that
on cooling, the Torx wrench will really the tightly held.

So, how about syphoning out the gas, and filling the tank with water. Or
old crank-case oil, which will be miscible with the gasoline. Gasoline
will float on water, and could still be dangerous, but diluted with oil, it
ought to be pretty hard to light. Another idea is to run the exhaust from
a small engine into the tank with a hose, and run it for 15-30 minutes. I
know of a welding shop that does this when they weld gas-tanks.

Maybe try throwing in a few lumps of dry ice, which will fill the space
with CO2.

I hate to belabor the point, but if you can't safely apply a torch to a
gas tank I question if you can safely operate power equipment.

There are lots of safe ways, and a small heat job far from the mouth of
the tank has an inherently low danger. Dry Ice sounds good, I often use
a CO2 tank for the same purpose. My father often welded diesel tanks
full to overflowing; often a fire (fireman standing by) but never an
explosion. Water works but is a bitch to clean out afterward. If the
diesel tank were empty, I would consider just adding a cup of 30W oil
and go at it for such a low heat job. A small amount of oil added to
gasoline so supresses the flash that the mix can be poured on open flame
without the disasterous flashback you get trying to pour gasoline on an
open fire.

--
free men own guns - slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

In article , wrote:


I think that an impact extension could be mig-welded into the plug
and it could be turned.

If you weld anything on to it you probably will be ablke to remove it
with finger pressure.

--
free men own guns - slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

wrote in message ...
Got an old Case loader that's been sitting for a long time.
It has two heavy steel gas tanks welded to the frame. At the bottom of
each tank is a drain; a socket head pipe plug.
Pulled the the first plug with a hex socket,it came out easy.
Along with a quantity of rust, sludge, and old gas.
Went to pull the second plug, and hex won't fit. Someone
has munged the recessed hex trying to get the plug out, instead of a 3/8
hex it is now roughly a 3/8 square.
Tried to turn it with a 3/8 adapter, but there is just a little bit too
much clearance around the adapter.
Any ideas of how to get this plug out other than drilling it?
Might some kind of epoxy/liquid metal hold the adapter enough to get it
out?

Sounds like it might have been changed with one of the plumbing types
instead of the SAE. Probably drill it and try an EZout, but be
careful with that, nothing more miserable to try to get out than a
broken ezout. might try a larger size of square stock, ground to fit
and see if a little hammering on it might help. Good luck.
Don't think I'd try drilling it out if there is fuel in there - as
when the drill bit breaks through, the fuel will be coming down the
flutes of the bit and down onto the drillmotor - sparking- etc....
Ken.

In article m, Ken Sterling
says...

Don't think I'd try drilling it out if there is fuel in there - as
when the drill bit breaks through, the fuel will be coming down the
flutes of the bit and down onto the drillmotor - sparking- etc....

1) remove tank from vehicle.

2) invert, drain out fuel residue.

3) fill with water, drill out plug.

Done.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

"jim rozen" wrote in message
...
In article m, Ken
Sterling
says...

Don't think I'd try drilling it out if there is fuel in there - as
when the drill bit breaks through, the fuel will be coming down the
flutes of the bit and down onto the drillmotor - sparking- etc....

1) remove tank from vehicle.


He said that the tank is welded into the frame.

2) invert, drain out fuel residue.

3) fill with water, drill out plug.

Done.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Pete.

In article , Peter Reilley says...

He said that the tank is welded into the frame.

What is this, a *quilting* newsgroup??

Cut welds with hacksaw, remove tank. Proceed as
per spec.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

On Fri, 06 Feb 2004 18:52:39 -0600, wrote:

I once saw a plumber remove a similar plug that had been in place at
least 25 years. He used a sharp chisel and 4-lb hammer, the chisel
digging into the plug at an angle so he could apply tangential shock
with the hammer blows. After about 6 hits he could unscrew the plug
the rest of the way with channel locks.

In article ,
jim rozen wrote:

In article m, Ken Sterling
says...

Don't think I'd try drilling it out if there is fuel in there - as
when the drill bit breaks through, the fuel will be coming down the
flutes of the bit and down onto the drillmotor - sparking- etc....

1) remove tank from vehicle.

2) invert, drain out fuel residue.

3) fill with water, drill out plug.

How do you fill with water if it is upside down? How do you keep the
water in unless you are drilling from the bottom, then the water will
come out on to your drill & zap you.

--
free men own guns - slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

In article , Nick Hull says...

1) remove tank from vehicle.

2) invert, drain out fuel residue.

3) fill with water, drill out plug.

How do you fill with water if it is upside down? How do you keep the
water in unless you are drilling from the bottom, then the water will
come out on to your drill & zap you.

OK I'll revise the steps.

1) remove tank from vehicle.

2) invert, drain out fuel residue.

3) re-orient tank so fill port is up.

4) fill with water

5) cap fill port with h2o-impermeable cover

6) invert tank, drill out plug.

Re-tap the threads, re-install plug or fitting.

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

On Sun, 8 Feb 2004 13:18:39 -0500, "Peter Reilley"
brought forth from the murky depths:


"jim rozen" wrote in message
...
In article m, Ken
Sterling
says...

Don't think I'd try drilling it out if there is fuel in there - as
when the drill bit breaks through, the fuel will be coming down the
flutes of the bit and down onto the drillmotor - sparking- etc....

1) remove tank from vehicle.


He said that the tank is welded into the frame.

Spend the 15 minutes and use the Sawzall. Reweld when done.

-
The only reason I would take up exercising is || http://diversify.com
so that I could hear heavy breathing again. || Programmed Websites

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 05:19:52 -0500, Nick Hull
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

There are lots of safe ways, and a small heat job far from the mouth of
the tank has an inherently low danger. Dry Ice sounds good, I often use
a CO2 tank for the same purpose. My father often welded diesel tanks
full to overflowing; often a fire (fireman standing by) but never an
explosion.

You have a fireman standing by for diesel...this is _p e t r o l_
according to to the OP.

Water works but is a bitch to clean out afterward.

If the
diesel

..........read the OP...........

tank were empty, I would consider just adding a cup of 30W oil
and go at it for such a low heat job. A small amount of oil added to
gasoline so supresses the flash that the mix can be poured on open flame
without the disasterous flashback you get trying to pour gasoline on an
open fire.

The guy is rebuilding a whole machine! USE WATER! CLEAN IT OUT
AFTERWARD! Why is everybody trying to offer dangerous advice to save
1% of the job? The savings are minor. _Probably_ nothiong will
happen. If it does, it's bad

I will try your statements sometime. A "small" amount of oil to how
much petrol, please? I have had plenty of opportunities to try petrol
on hot situations, where I could control the amount of "gas" and could
leap out of the way. Tell me how much oil stops it being really
dangerous, please. Diesel will _almost_ explode "on an open fire".
Petrol is amazing.

If you disagree then you have not seen the right conditions. Many
have. The problem is that you do not know what the "right conditions"
are until your eyebrows/face disappear, or the shop burns down.

And how are you going to assure that the petrol has been mixed with
the oil, in the tank. What if there's a burnthrough?

OK. I have never had a petrol accident. I know a guy who did. He
nearly died. Apparently he was washing the engine of a car down with
petrol in a spray bottle.

never done that?.....I have...

Something...happened. (the _shadow_ knows) Watch strap on battery
terminal? Nylon clothes and static?

Four years later he was still wearing a pressure bandage on his hand
and forearm. It's just come off. His son talked about it recently and
said that when he was called by the hospital, it was touch and go, and
when he went in there he could not believe what he saw. "Melted man"

Hang on! Sorry. Two guys. The other one tried (well no, he succeeded)
to light an incinerator that would not behave by "helping" it with
petrol...but it was already warm....stupid huh? He was just the
laughing stock of the workplace for a couple of weeks. He looked
really funny. Bald...no eyebrows...sheepish expression.

So anyway.......... All the theories and arguments are crap, unless
the proponent has suffered the consequences.

If you get it wrong you are stuffed.

So do your best to be careful. Err on the side of caution.

If you are going to risk your life, at least have fun doing
it...bungey, paraglide, abseil, have unprotected sex with someone....

sorry.
************************************************** ** sorry

..........no I'm not!
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Spike....Spike? Hello?

On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 22:00:00 -0600, vaguely proposed a
theory
.......and in reply I say!:


My neighbor said: "Go on and weld the damn thing. Hell, she aint goin'
to make but one bang!".

Lovely......
************************************************** ** sorry

..........no I'm not!
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Spike....Spike? Hello?

On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 22:00:00 -0600, vaguely proposed a
theory
.......and in reply I say!:

You know, the thing is you would _probably_ get away with this.

People do in boats and seaway, in cars and highway, etc etc.

.............but in this case the solutions are so easy, and the
consequences are so dire............

...............sounds like life actually.

HEY! The neighbour knows how to LIVE! Strap them to the tank, man!

The only problem might be my hands shaking too bad to get a decent bead.

My neighbor said: "Go on and weld the damn thing. Hell, she aint goin'
to make but one bang!".


************************************************** ** sorry

..........no I'm not!
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Spike....Spike? Hello?

On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 22:00:00 -0600, wrote:
I think someone must have tightened the hell out of this plug years ago.
The tanks are 3/16 steel plate, and the plug is mounted in a very heavy
boss.
I think that an impact extension could be mig-welded into the plug
and it could be turned.

The only problem might be my hands shaking too bad to get a decent bead.

My neighbor said: "Go on and weld the damn thing. Hell, she aint goin'
to make but one bang!".

It'll be fine. Remember the fire triangle. You have to have fuel, oxygen,
and heat all come together at the same time in the same location. The
plug is under liquid gasoline, so oxygen is missing from the fire triangle.
Some of the gas will boil, raising the vapor pressure in the tank. But it
will be below ignition temperature when it finds the vent. You will have
a flamable mixture just outside the vent, make sure you don't throw any
sparks that way. (You might want to run a hose from the vent to some
point downwind of your activities.)

Gary

"Gary Coffman" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 22:00:00 -0600, wrote:
I think someone must have tightened the hell out of this plug years ago.
The tanks are 3/16 steel plate, and the plug is mounted in a very heavy
boss.
I think that an impact extension could be mig-welded into the plug
and it could be turned.

The only problem might be my hands shaking too bad to get a decent bead.

My neighbor said: "Go on and weld the damn thing. Hell, she aint goin'
to make but one bang!".

It'll be fine. Remember the fire triangle. You have to have fuel, oxygen,
and heat all come together at the same time in the same location. The
plug is under liquid gasoline, so oxygen is missing from the fire
triangle.
Some of the gas will boil, raising the vapor pressure in the tank. But it
will be below ignition temperature when it finds the vent. You will have
a flamable mixture just outside the vent, make sure you don't throw any
sparks that way. (You might want to run a hose from the vent to some
point downwind of your activities.)

Gary

Wonderful theory. Remind me to stand back a long way while you
try it. I will use my video camera (the long distance telephoto lens is
pretty good). This is one of those things that sound great in theory
before the fact, afterwards no one can explain what happened. ;-(

Pete.

On Sun, 8 Feb 2004 21:26:29 -0500, "Peter Reilley" wrote:
"Gary Coffman" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 22:00:00 -0600, wrote:
I think someone must have tightened the hell out of this plug years ago.
The tanks are 3/16 steel plate, and the plug is mounted in a very heavy
boss.
I think that an impact extension could be mig-welded into the plug
and it could be turned.

The only problem might be my hands shaking too bad to get a decent bead.

My neighbor said: "Go on and weld the damn thing. Hell, she aint goin'
to make but one bang!".

It'll be fine. Remember the fire triangle. You have to have fuel, oxygen,
and heat all come together at the same time in the same location. The
plug is under liquid gasoline, so oxygen is missing from the fire
triangle.
Some of the gas will boil, raising the vapor pressure in the tank. But it
will be below ignition temperature when it finds the vent. You will have
a flamable mixture just outside the vent, make sure you don't throw any
sparks that way. (You might want to run a hose from the vent to some
point downwind of your activities.)

Gary

Wonderful theory. Remind me to stand back a long way while you
try it. I will use my video camera (the long distance telephoto lens is
pretty good). This is one of those things that sound great in theory
before the fact, afterwards no one can explain what happened. ;-(

Not a problem. I've done it hundreds of times. The only time I get
leery is when I'm asked to weld on an *empty* tank. Won't do it.
Wouldn't be prudent. *That's* a situation just asking for an explosion.

Consider that every late model vehicle with a fuel pump in the tank
has sparks in there any time the pump is running. They don't go
bang. The reason is the fire triangle isn't satisfied.

Gary

Gary Coffman wrote in message . ..
On Sun, 8 Feb 2004 21:26:29 -0500, "Peter Reilley" wrote:
"Gary Coffman" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 22:00:00 -0600, wrote:
I think someone must have tightened the hell out of this plug years ago.
The tanks are 3/16 steel plate, and the plug is mounted in a very heavy
boss.
I think that an impact extension could be mig-welded into the plug
and it could be turned.

The only problem might be my hands shaking too bad to get a decent bead.

My neighbor said: "Go on and weld the damn thing. Hell, she aint goin'
to make but one bang!".

It'll be fine. Remember the fire triangle. You have to have fuel, oxygen,
and heat all come together at the same time in the same location. The
plug is under liquid gasoline, so oxygen is missing from the fire
triangle.
Some of the gas will boil, raising the vapor pressure in the tank. But it
will be below ignition temperature when it finds the vent. You will have
a flamable mixture just outside the vent, make sure you don't throw any
sparks that way. (You might want to run a hose from the vent to some
point downwind of your activities.)

Gary

Wonderful theory. Remind me to stand back a long way while you
try it. I will use my video camera (the long distance telephoto lens is
pretty good). This is one of those things that sound great in theory
before the fact, afterwards no one can explain what happened. ;-(

Not a problem. I've done it hundreds of times. The only time I get
leery is when I'm asked to weld on an *empty* tank. Won't do it.
Wouldn't be prudent. *That's* a situation just asking for an explosion.

Consider that every late model vehicle with a fuel pump in the tank
has sparks in there any time the pump is running. They don't go
bang. The reason is the fire triangle isn't satisfied.

Gary

Agreed. Empty tanks are frightening, but a full(at least above point
of heat) tank is really not an issue. Stay away from the vapors and
you are ok. Keep the A/F ratio way above or below 14:1 and you will
have difficulty getting it to ignite(even if you try).

Considering you are pulling the tank(or at least the plug) fill it
with ANYTHING that makes you feel better. Water would be fine. To
get it out later you will need to some gas w/ some alcohol added.
Gas would be fine. A few gallons of diesel might be the best choice.

Weld something on to it and turn it out. As other have said, the heat
from welding will probably almost allow you to turn it out be hand.

JW

Gary Coffman wrote in message . ..
On Sun, 8 Feb 2004 21:26:29 -0500, "Peter Reilley"
Consider that every late model vehicle with a fuel pump in the tank
has sparks in there any time the pump is running. They don't go
bang. The reason is the fire triangle isn't satisfied.

Gary

I had an old Volvo that would blow fuel pump fuses at erratic
intervals. Finally pulled the pump out of the tank to find somebody
had left an old float from the level sensor floating in the tank.
Every once in a while, it would float over and short out the fuel pump
and blow the fuse. No oxygen, no boom, but I can't say I was happy to
find it.

Still, bringing any flame around a gas tank requires very careful
thought as to what might go wrong and how to avoid problems. In any
event, you probably wouldn't even hear the boom :-)

Personally, I'd try to avoid that and maybe try to unround the socket
with a dremel and carbide tool a little so a larger tool could be a
hammer fit. Would be slow, but less risky.

Also, see if you can get one of those hammer type impact tools. When
rounding things, bits tend to cam out. When you wollop these things
with a hammer, they'll get tighter and you get some vibration to help
break it free. I've gotten bolts and screws out with one of those
that were totally hopeless otherwise.

Paul

On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 20:52:28 -0500, Gary Coffman
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

_You_ may be fine with this. _You_ may be clever enough to avoid
immolation.

I recommmend against recommending it publicly.

All the theories about triangles are great. If one leg is altered the
result ids disaster.

The safer mewthods are so eesy. Y bother?

Peepul make mistakes.

It'll be fine. Remember the fire triangle. You have to have fuel, oxygen,
and heat all come together at the same time in the same location. The
plug is under liquid gasoline, so oxygen is missing from the fire triangle.
Some of the gas will boil, raising the vapor pressure in the tank. But it
will be below ignition temperature when it finds the vent. You will have
a flamable mixture just outside the vent, make sure you don't throw any
sparks that way. (You might want to run a hose from the vent to some
point downwind of your activities.)

Gary

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