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Default 208-230V Single Phase Motor wiring

I just came into a new motor and I'm attempting to figure out the
wiring for it.

This is a more complex setup than I've had to figure out before.

There are 7 wires in total, nicely packaged into a 9 prong connector

- - 7
6 5 4
3 2 G

G is the green ground, all the other numbers come off the wire itself.

I took my multimeter and started measuring resistance.

7 - 6: 8.3
4 - 3: .5
4 - 2: 2.4

5 - 4, 5 - 2, 5 - 3: When measuring these I had to crank the meter
upto its max range, placing the meter probes on any 2 of these wires
has the meter rise very quickly and continue moving up. If I take the
meter off and replace them onto the ends it picks up where I left off.
If I place the probes on 5 and ground it resets.

Any ideas how I would wire this? I have a 230V outlet that I use with
my welders that I plan to use with this for now.

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Brian Lawson
 
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Default 208-230V Single Phase Motor wiring

Hey Marc,

It would be simplest to send you a JPG picture than try to write all
this so you can read it. If that's better for you, send me a direct
email and I will do so, but here is my attempt nonetheless.

First off, you don't mention the horse-power, but I suspect that your
"a 230V outlet that I use with my welders" will be fuse or breaker
protected at too high an amp rating for a single phase motor. For
safety, I'd at least check that out before you go much further.

You also don't mention what voltageS (plural) your motor is labeled.
If you are lucky, it will be 115/230. If you are not so lucky, it
will be 220/440, and the following won't be correct. And what colours
are the wires, other than green?

Two things though.....you don't mention whether there are one or two
"bumps" for the capacitors on the outside of the motor, and you didn't
indicate a "1" or an "8" as being free or visible. Looking at my US
MOTORS handbook, the only diagram I see for a single phase motor where
wires 1 and 8 are NOT VISIBLE (or free), and that gets up to a free
wire number "7" tag, is for a "Capacitor start, single phase,
dual-voltage motor", whe


P1 and P2, or P1 and P2 and P3 are the thermal breaker in the motor
(and you didn't mention them either),

2 is half of the main run windings, and the unseen other end of
that winding is 1, which is hooked permanently to the thermal breaker
(at P3).

3 and 4 are the other half of the main run windings

5 and 6 are one of the run capacitors

7 and 8 are the second of the run capacitors, and the 8 tag is
hooked directly to the 1 tag, probably at the thermal overload, so it
is "hidden" too.

So, assuming that 1 & 8 are not visible to you because they are hooked
internally to the thermal overload, and calling the 230 volt feed
wires L1 and L2..........

it looks likes that you have a "High Voltage, CCW rotation", by
connecting this way

L1 to P1
L2 to 4&5
Join 2 & 3 together
Join 6 & 7 together
Insulate P2 (as it is not "used" in this configuration)

If in fact, this is a 220/440 motor, or if you want it to run in a CW
instead of CCW direction, then all the above is moot, and you will
have to "take it apart" a bit more to do it.

You also wrote:
5 - 4, 5 - 2, 5 - 3: When measuring these I had to crank the meter
upto its max range, placing the meter probes on any 2 of these wires
has the meter rise very quickly and continue moving up. If I take the
meter off and replace them onto the ends it picks up where I left off.
If I place the probes on 5 and ground it resets.


Although I can't quite follow it as being what I would expect from
what you write, this is what happens when you place an ohmmeter across
a capacitor. The current that the ohmmeter uses to "test" with is
applied to the capacitor, so you are in effect charging the capacitor
to whatever voltage your meter uses, nominally/arguably around 3 to 9
volts. Watch out for the discharge if you reverse the leads.

You might also find this explanation interesting:
http://www.lmphotonics.com/single_phase_m.htm


Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX



On 20 Feb 2006 06:53:36 -0800, "
wrote:

I just came into a new motor and I'm attempting to figure out the
wiring for it.

This is a more complex setup than I've had to figure out before.

There are 7 wires in total, nicely packaged into a 9 prong connector

- - 7
6 5 4
3 2 G

G is the green ground, all the other numbers come off the wire itself.

I took my multimeter and started measuring resistance.

7 - 6: 8.3
4 - 3: .5
4 - 2: 2.4

5 - 4, 5 - 2, 5 - 3: When measuring these I had to crank the meter
upto its max range, placing the meter probes on any 2 of these wires
has the meter rise very quickly and continue moving up. If I take the
meter off and replace them onto the ends it picks up where I left off.
If I place the probes on 5 and ground it resets.

Any ideas how I would wire this? I have a 230V outlet that I use with
my welders that I plan to use with this for now.

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Default 208-230V Single Phase Motor wiring

I just wanted to follow up on this, the company sent me a wiring
diagram.

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Default 208-230V Single Phase Motor wiring

I want to try to discribe the diagram, because it is somewhat like
Brian's explenation but not exactly.

Wire 2 is half the main winding which connects to internal wire 1
(pink) Wire 5 is half the start winding with the capacitor and a
discharge resistor across the cap. in front of the winding. This also
connects to wire 1.

7 and 6 are the 2 halves of the cent. switch

wires 3 and 4 come off the thermal protector 3 comes out of P1 and 4
comes out of P3 there is a P2 but the diagram does not show a
connection.

Wire 1 goes into P3.

wire 4 is indicated on the diagram as Cust Signal Lead (hand written)

in the lower left labeled For test

Line into 3
5 & 6 jumpered
Line into 7 & 2 which are Jumpered

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