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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 10:33:22 -0800, Derek wrote:
Are there any simple/cheap ways to solder or crimp ends onto light duty (say bicycle derailers) cable? obviously I wouldn't use home made cables on brakes and the like. Thanks, Derek. Go to a good bicycle shop. They sell the crimp on ends. At least the one I go to does. ERS |
#2
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
Derek,
This will get you to a thread where this was discussed before. http://groups.google.com/group/rec.c...8 d257c9f6228 Wayne D. On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 10:33:22 -0800, Derek wrote: Are there any simple/cheap ways to solder or crimp ends onto light duty (say bicycle derailers) cable? obviously I wouldn't use home made cables on brakes and the like. Thanks, Derek. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 10:33:22 -0800, Derek wrote:
Are there any simple/cheap ways to solder or crimp ends onto light duty (say bicycle derailers) cable? obviously I wouldn't use home made cables on brakes and the like. Thanks, Derek. Don't solder them! The simplest and cheapest way is to take them to a bike shop or a sailboat store and have them crimp ends on them. You can buy a crimper if you plan to do a lot of it. There are inexpensive crimpers that work with a vise or hammer. I made mine. No reason not to use homemade cables on brakes. I did on the mast stays for a small sailboat -- lots more tension there than on a bike brake cable! Dont use makeshift lead ferrules. Lead is too soft to hold. Use the zinc-plated copper ones that are readily available. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
Are there any simple/cheap ways to solder or crimp ends onto light
duty (say bicycle derailers) cable? obviously I wouldn't use home made cables on brakes and the like. Thanks, Derek. |
#5
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
In article , Don Foreman says...
Dont use makeshift lead ferrules. Lead is too soft to hold. Use the zinc-plated copper ones that are readily available. While I have to agree that the simple expedient of getting ends crimped on at a local bike shop is absolutely the best approach, and exactly the one I would recommend, I have to relate this story: My first foray into the world of mechanics and wrenching happened when I was in middle school. I picked up a huge pile of three speed bicycle parts (frames, wheels, all kinds of parts) from a house near my home during one local junk pick-up day. I assembled my first rideable bicycle from that stuff, and learned a lot. I had a lot of time and not much money, so I mostly made do with what I had. For some reason, I didn't have a shifter cable the correct length, but I did have one that was for some reason way too long. I cut off the end, and not knowing any better, made a new one. I cleaned the oil and grease off the cable, and wrapped it with a single turn of solid copper wire of the correct diameter to form a cylinder on the surface of the cable. After fluxing the assembly with plumbers paste flux I simply flowed soft solder into the coil to form a solid end to the cable. Fast forward to recent times when I was overhauling that bike which has been used for many years. I was a bit dumbfounded to see my initial handiwork which provided faithful service all those years. Like Don says, it shouldn't really hold. But oddly it did. And those SA cables do get some serious tension on them when you try to shift at the wrong time. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
#6
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
Take a piece of metal....the size of the end you need cross drill it,
chamfer one side if the hole. Slip your cable through fray it out a little bit and then solder it. |
#7
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 19:26:03 GMT, Mike wrote:
Take a piece of metal....the size of the end you need cross drill it, chamfer one side if the hole. Slip your cable through fray it out a little bit and then solder it. A field-expedient I've used on the throttle cable for a riding mower: Take a piece of brass rod, cut a slot in it, lay the cable in the slot and beat the hell out of the rod with a hammer. Not pretty, but it works. |
#8
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
For soldering nipples,
http://www.flanderscables.com/ sells tools, including an electric dip solderer. I'm told an iron end cap from the plumbers' supplies shop, heated with fire can do the same job. Not tried it myself - I'm still using the soldering iron. Jordan Derek wrote: Are there any simple/cheap ways to solder or crimp ends onto light duty (say bicycle derailers) cable? |
#9
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 10:33:22 -0800, Derek wrote:
Are there any simple/cheap ways to solder or crimp ends onto light duty (say bicycle derailers) cable? No. Buy a new cable and it comes with nipples already attached. It's the simplest way of obtaining the right cables anyway! The genuine nipples are lead, cast in place on the cable. They're just not supplied loose, even to bike shops. I can't imagine any way of making your own or attaching such nipples that is a real saving over buying cables with them attached - just buy the cables ready made! If you're rigging a tandem etc., then you _might_ need to attach your own nipples. A bit of turned brass and a spot of silver solder is easy enough - I do plenty of this for shelving and it's a tiresome job though - if you can buy them, then buy them! To tidy up the cut ends of cables at the mech end (the nipple goes in the hand control, the mech is just a screw clamp) then it's usual to crimp a tiny aluminium cap onto the end. This is just decorative and to stop fraying, not as a structural part. These caps are hard to buy (cheap, but you need to buy a gazillion) but a good bike shop will usually give customers a couple. Alternatively (as I do) use electrical botlace ferrules. These are just crimped on with any old electrical crimp tool - mine was originally for doing the centre conductor in coax. NB - brake and gear cable outers are different and are NOT interchangeable. It's also worth paying the considerable extra for good quality gear cables, even the Ride-on megabuck sort, if you live anywhere either mudy or dusty. http://sheldonbrown.com is always worth a read on bike fixing. |
#10
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
Thanks to all who replied, much appreciated. I like the brass & solder idea, and since I have a small lathe it should be easy to turn & drill it. As far as replacing the cable with a new one, it's not practicle, it's for an old Yamaha DT250 (1975) where the gas cable splits into two, one for the carb & one for the oil injector (Autolube). The unit comes as a whole assy. probably around $100 if available. There is very little load on both cables. Thanks again & Best Wishes for '06. |
#11
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
"Derek" wrote in message ... Thanks to all who replied, much appreciated. I like the brass & solder idea, and since I have a small lathe it should be easy to turn & drill it. As far as replacing the cable with a new one, it's not practicle, it's for an old Yamaha DT250 (1975) where the gas cable splits into two, one for the carb & one for the oil injector (Autolube). The unit comes as a whole assy. probably around $100 if available. There is very little load on both cables. If you can get the right ends on _some_ sort of cable, you might be able to crimp together something that would duplicate the original. You may find the right size crimps at a climbing supply place - they use them for making chocks or nuts or whatever they call those gizmos they put in rock cracks and hang from. You don't want to find out 200 miles later that the oil cable slipped the fitting... |
#12
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
If you can get the right ends on _some_ sort of cable, you might be able to crimp together something that would duplicate the original. You may find the right size crimps at a climbing supply place - they use them for making chocks or nuts or whatever they call those gizmos they put in rock cracks and hang from. You don't want to find out 200 miles later that the oil cable slipped the fitting... Thanks for the tip. I'll see what I can find.. Cheers. |
#13
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Soldering nipple ends on cable (light duty).
"Derek" wrote in message ... If you can get the right ends on _some_ sort of cable, you might be able to crimp together something that would duplicate the original. You may find the right size crimps at a climbing supply place - they use them for making chocks or nuts or whatever they call those gizmos they put in rock cracks and hang from. You don't want to find out 200 miles later that the oil cable slipped the fitting... Thanks for the tip. I'll see what I can find.. Yachting supply places sell a lot of cable gear. |
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