Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Threading: 29º or another way...
I learned this yesterday at work.
Instead of setting the compound rest on a lathe to 29º for single point threading, I have been taught to set the compound to 90º (parallel to the bed, z axis feed). The tool is then advanced (incrementally of course) to the calculated root depth of the thread (refer to the machinery's handbook or others). This will not result in a usable thread. The crest of the thread should not be sharp at this point. There should still be flats at the top. Once this depth is achieved, the compound rest is advanced toward the headstock to clean the forward flank of the thread, and then retracted to clean the rear flank of the thread. These forward and rear cleaning cuts are made incrementally and may require more than one pass (for each). Using the three wire method to measure the threads, one can easily achieve a tight-fitting thread. This technique makes multistart threads very easy to produce. You do have to watch out when doing the forward and rear flank cleaning cuts. Each "start" must have the same forward cleaning cut depth and rear cleaning cut depth (although the forward and rear depths do not have to be equal). Another issue that must be observed is that a radius on the nose of the threading tool will adjust the calculated depth of the root of the thread. Usually not a big issue if your tool is essentially "sharp" as there is a fair amount of clearance built into a female thread. Does anyone else do it this way? The instructor who taught me is a very knowledgeable German-educated millwright (different meaning in Germany, apparently) and the first time I tried it I had far more success than using the old 29º method. Thought this might help someone. Regards, Robin |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Threading: 29º or another way...
"Robin S." wrote in message ... snip----- Does anyone else do it this way? The instructor who taught me is a very knowledgeable German-educated millwright (different meaning in Germany, apparently) and the first time I tried it I had far more success than using the old 29º method. That is nothing new, but I don't endorse it unless you are cutting multiple entry threads on an item chucked instead of running between centers, or you're cutting threads other than 60° form. It is especially effective on Acme or square threads. The real problem with that method is if you're cutting (60°) threads that will get inspected by a comparator, and I've been there, done that, many times, the form will likely be out of tolerance so you risk making scrap, even though rings or a snap gage may say the thread is acceptable. The flat on thread forms has a tight enough tolerance that the side motion necessary to clean up the threads risks cutting the flat too wide. Threading with a sharp pointed tool is not a solution, for that is also a scrap thread. The second problem with that threading method is chip flow and tool tip loading, generally leading to tip failure. If you're threading at high speeds using carbide, the problem may be lessened, even insignificant, but that threading method otherwise is generally a recipe for tool failure. CNC threading at high speeds seems to work fine when so fed, something many guys do because they don't want to pay for the feature that permits "proper" threading. I imagine the chip flow characteristics are much improved by running the cut at the "sweet spot", but I have nothing to document my opinion. My threading practice has always been to feed at 29°, but to take the final few passes by plunging with the cross slide, but taking light cuts, no greater than a couple thou, and as low as a half thou when going for a fine finish. Requires a sharp tool, but your suggested method does, too. The advantage of finishing by my method is to eliminate the chance of ruining thread form by widening the flat. Harold |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Threading: 29º or another way...
The purpose of the 29 deg. for the compound is to allow for the heavy cut to
be on one side of the threads while just dusting the other side. In truth, you can set the compound at any angle you desire and do the cutting as you deisre. Some ways are just easier to do than others. Personally, I set the compound whereever it is and work from there. -- Bob May Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less. Works evevery time it is tried! |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Threading: 29º or another way...
"Bob May" wrote in message ... The purpose of the 29 deg. for the compound is to allow for the heavy cut to be on one side of the threads while just dusting the other side. In truth, you can set the compound at any angle you desire and do the cutting as you deisre. Some ways are just easier to do than others. Personally, I set the compound whereever it is and work from there. -- Bob May Bob, That can get you in trouble, especially if you're chasing a thread that will engage a long nut. When you single point thread, the whole idea of offsetting the compound as we do, aside from chip flow, is to keep the carriage loaded against the lead screw. That's why you set the compound differently for internal threading as opposed to external threading, or differently for left as opposed to right hand threads. What can happen is when you feed the compound on the wrong flank of the thread, the pressure of the cut can overcome the friction of the carriage and move it away from the screw, and it often does. The net result is what is termed a drunken thread. The pitch diameter may be correct, but the lead won't be, and the thread binds in the nut. It's a smart policy to always set your compound appropriately for the thread being single pointed. Harold |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Threading: 29º or another way...
In article , Harold & Susan Vordos says...
What can happen is when you feed the compound on the wrong flank of the thread, the pressure of the cut can overcome the friction of the carriage and move it away from the screw, and it often does. The net result is what is termed a drunken thread. I've always heard that term used for threads that were die-cut. And that it can be caused by a die cocking on the part and still threading along. I would think that threading with the compound set along the axis, but with the compound screw not loaded up against the force of the cut, would cause a thread that simply had the wrong pitch when it was done - by the amount of backlash in the compound screw, basically. Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Threading: 29º or another way...
"jim rozen" wrote in message ... In article , Harold & Susan Vordos says... What can happen is when you feed the compound on the wrong flank of the thread, the pressure of the cut can overcome the friction of the carriage and move it away from the screw, and it often does. The net result is what is termed a drunken thread. I've always heard that term used for threads that were die-cut. And that it can be caused by a die cocking on the part and still threading along. I would think that threading with the compound set along the axis, but with the compound screw not loaded up against the force of the cut, would cause a thread that simply had the wrong pitch when it was done - by the amount of backlash in the compound screw, basically. Jim In this scenario, you'd realize the compound had shifted because the tool wouldn't pick up the thread on a succeeding pass. The problem I speak of tends to go unnoticed because the pitch wanders back and forth, usually at the same spot in the thread, although that wouldn't necessarily be true. The problem can come on the first pass, which then steers the carriage so the drunken condition repeats at the same place each time and you don't notice it happening. The amount of movement can be very minor, but that's all it takes to screw up the thread. I experienced just such a thread on a part for Thiokol many years ago while in the employ of my last employer, just before starting my own shop. I was running a Cincinnati tray top, a machine for which I have little regard, cutting an acme thread. The carriage was very loose, and the hand wheel was not balanced. As the handle of the hand wheel came over the top, the weight of the handle bumped the carriage ahead slightly, until the lead screw caught up with it. Needless to say, it did so repeatedly until the thread was finished. Had I been running the machine for some time, I'd have been aware of the machine's propensity to cut threads poorly, but it was my first day on that particular machine. One of the rare returned items I experienced while working there. Took a little searching to understand why the thread was not good. Harold |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
2 Morse taper extender to 3 taper, then 1 inch threading die holder | Metalworking |