I have a grinder that has been in the box for a little over six years
now. I bought it new a couple weeks before I had an accident that laid
me up for a while and it got put in the shed and forgotten until
today. After unpacking it I plugged it in and turned it on. It was
very slow to come up to speed. Thinking it might be bearings devoid of
lubrication which would make it hard to spin that's the first thing I
ckecked. The bearings are as they should be when new , even though
they have been idle for 6 years. Next suspect is the starting
capacitor. If it was totally shot the motor would just hum and
vibrate. But I was wondering if it could be going bad instead of being
completely bad. Does this happen to motor starting caps? And if it
does, would this make the motor take a long time accelerating uop to
speed?
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

Eric R Snow wrote:

I have a grinder that has been in the box for a little over six years
now. I bought it new a couple weeks before I had an accident that laid
me up for a while and it got put in the shed and forgotten until
today. After unpacking it I plugged it in and turned it on. It was
very slow to come up to speed. Thinking it might be bearings devoid of
lubrication which would make it hard to spin that's the first thing I
ckecked. The bearings are as they should be when new , even though
they have been idle for 6 years. Next suspect is the starting
capacitor. If it was totally shot the motor would just hum and
vibrate. But I was wondering if it could be going bad instead of being
completely bad. Does this happen to motor starting caps? And if it
does, would this make the motor take a long time accelerating uop to
speed?
Thanks,
Eric R Snow


Most all of the hand grinders I've seen have brushes. If that is the
case, your armature is probably a little dirty or the brushes are
hanging up in the holders.

If you are talking about a pedistal grinder, make sure it is hooked up
for the proper voltage. A cap could be the problem depending on the type
of motor.


John

Is it an induction motor or a brush motor?

Bob Swinney
"john" wrote in message
...


Eric R Snow wrote:

I have a grinder that has been in the box for a little over six years
now. I bought it new a couple weeks before I had an accident that laid
me up for a while and it got put in the shed and forgotten until
today. After unpacking it I plugged it in and turned it on. It was
very slow to come up to speed. Thinking it might be bearings devoid of
lubrication which would make it hard to spin that's the first thing I
ckecked. The bearings are as they should be when new , even though
they have been idle for 6 years. Next suspect is the starting
capacitor. If it was totally shot the motor would just hum and
vibrate. But I was wondering if it could be going bad instead of being
completely bad. Does this happen to motor starting caps? And if it
does, would this make the motor take a long time accelerating uop to
speed?
Thanks,
Eric R Snow


Most all of the hand grinders I've seen have brushes. If that is the
case, your armature is probably a little dirty or the brushes are
hanging up in the holders.

If you are talking about a pedistal grinder, make sure it is hooked up
for the proper voltage. A cap could be the problem depending on the type
of motor.


John

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 09:29:06 -0500, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:
Greetings Bob,
The motor is a capacitor start induction motor. Are there brush motors
with capacitors?
Eric
Is it an induction motor or a brush motor?

Bob Swinney
"john" wrote in message
...


Eric R Snow wrote:

I have a grinder that has been in the box for a little over six years
now. I bought it new a couple weeks before I had an accident that laid
me up for a while and it got put in the shed and forgotten until
today. After unpacking it I plugged it in and turned it on. It was
very slow to come up to speed. Thinking it might be bearings devoid of
lubrication which would make it hard to spin that's the first thing I
ckecked. The bearings are as they should be when new , even though
they have been idle for 6 years. Next suspect is the starting
capacitor. If it was totally shot the motor would just hum and
vibrate. But I was wondering if it could be going bad instead of being
completely bad. Does this happen to motor starting caps? And if it
does, would this make the motor take a long time accelerating uop to
speed?
Thanks,
Eric R Snow


Most all of the hand grinders I've seen have brushes. If that is the
case, your armature is probably a little dirty or the brushes are
hanging up in the holders.

If you are talking about a pedistal grinder, make sure it is hooked up
for the proper voltage. A cap could be the problem depending on the type
of motor.


John

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 02:25:12 GMT, tesnow@whidbeyDOTcom (Eric R Snow)
wrote:

I have a grinder that has been in the box for a little over six years
now. I bought it new a couple weeks before I had an accident that laid
me up for a while and it got put in the shed and forgotten until
today. After unpacking it I plugged it in and turned it on. It was
very slow to come up to speed. Thinking it might be bearings devoid of
lubrication which would make it hard to spin that's the first thing I
ckecked. The bearings are as they should be when new , even though
they have been idle for 6 years. Next suspect is the starting
capacitor. If it was totally shot the motor would just hum and
vibrate. But I was wondering if it could be going bad instead of being
completely bad. Does this happen to motor starting caps? And if it
does, would this make the motor take a long time accelerating uop to
speed?
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

Yes, electrolytic start caps can dry out. Easy to check, they're
cheap. Yes, if the cap were weak it would start slowly, and draw a
lot of current while struggling up to speed.

As someone else suggested, make sure you're applying the right
voltage.

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 12:00:55 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 02:25:12 GMT, tesnow@whidbeyDOTcom (Eric R Snow)
wrote:

I have a grinder that has been in the box for a little over six years
now. I bought it new a couple weeks before I had an accident that laid
me up for a while and it got put in the shed and forgotten until
today. After unpacking it I plugged it in and turned it on. It was
very slow to come up to speed. Thinking it might be bearings devoid of
lubrication which would make it hard to spin that's the first thing I
ckecked. The bearings are as they should be when new , even though
they have been idle for 6 years. Next suspect is the starting
capacitor. If it was totally shot the motor would just hum and
vibrate. But I was wondering if it could be going bad instead of being
completely bad. Does this happen to motor starting caps? And if it
does, would this make the motor take a long time accelerating uop to
speed?
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

Yes, electrolytic start caps can dry out. Easy to check, they're
cheap. Yes, if the cap were weak it would start slowly, and draw a
lot of current while struggling up to speed.

As someone else suggested, make sure you're applying the right
voltage.


I have a 6" Heavy Duty Baldor grinder that recently started to run hot
then gently waft out smoke. I flipped it upside down, replaced the
start cap with an identical one..and it still does it.

What could be the cause? Bearings are free wheeling of course. It
starts slow..and runs slow.

Do I need a rewind? (Cringe)

I dont think there is a start switch inside, though Ive not pulled the
bells.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 12:00:55 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 02:25:12 GMT, tesnow@whidbeyDOTcom (Eric R Snow)
wrote:

I have a grinder that has been in the box for a little over six years
now. I bought it new a couple weeks before I had an accident that laid
me up for a while and it got put in the shed and forgotten until
today. After unpacking it I plugged it in and turned it on. It was
very slow to come up to speed. Thinking it might be bearings devoid of
lubrication which would make it hard to spin that's the first thing I
ckecked. The bearings are as they should be when new , even though
they have been idle for 6 years. Next suspect is the starting
capacitor. If it was totally shot the motor would just hum and
vibrate. But I was wondering if it could be going bad instead of being
completely bad. Does this happen to motor starting caps? And if it
does, would this make the motor take a long time accelerating uop to
speed?
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

Yes, electrolytic start caps can dry out. Easy to check, they're
cheap. Yes, if the cap were weak it would start slowly, and draw a
lot of current while struggling up to speed.

As someone else suggested, make sure you're applying the right
voltage.
It has the correct voltage. The motor is not a dual voltage motor.
There is only one correct way to wire it and it is wired that way. It
may be that if the end bells were removed there would be wires that
could be changed for 220 but the paperwork states that it is a 120
volt grinder. Once up to speed it has plenty of torque. It just takes
a long time to get there. I'll try a new cap.
Eric
ERS

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 17:45:14 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:


I have a 6" Heavy Duty Baldor grinder that recently started to run hot
then gently waft out smoke. I flipped it upside down, replaced the
start cap with an identical one..and it still does it.

What could be the cause? Bearings are free wheeling of course. It
starts slow..and runs slow.

Do I need a rewind? (Cringe)

I dont think there is a start switch inside, though Ive not pulled the
bells.


There are capacitor run motors with no start switch, but most cap
start motors do have a start switch. Run caps are different from
start caps.

If it's an electrolytic start cap, there is a start switch. Used
to be that run caps were in metal cans, but there are plastic-cased
ones now.

Try disconnecting the cap when the motor is running. If it runs
happily then, chances are you have a stuck start switch.

Eric R Snow wrote:

It has the correct voltage. The motor is not a dual voltage motor.
There is only one correct way to wire it and it is wired that way. It
may be that if the end bells were removed there would be wires that
could be changed for 220 but the paperwork states that it is a 120
volt grinder. Once up to speed it has plenty of torque. It just takes
a long time to get there. I'll try a new cap.

Some grinders, like the little Baldor you own (that came from me) are not
capacitor start squirrel cage motors, rather they are split-phase motors with a
run cap permanently in the circuit. These can take longer to start, and often I
used to give a wheel a little spin just before I flicked the switch.

Those will start more slowly the bigger the inertial load they see. In other
words, if yours starts a lot faster with no wheels on it, then slows down when
you put max size wheels on it, it might be a PSC motor.

GWE

Ignoramus14838 wrote:

yes, then try a new cap, they cost next to nothing.

Start caps are electrolytic, and they are inexpensive. Many small grinders
aren't capacitor start motors, they're split phase motors with permanent run
caps in the circuit. Those can easily cost $50. Ouch.

GWE

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 14:59:36 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Eric R Snow wrote:

It has the correct voltage. The motor is not a dual voltage motor.
There is only one correct way to wire it and it is wired that way. It
may be that if the end bells were removed there would be wires that
could be changed for 220 but the paperwork states that it is a 120
volt grinder. Once up to speed it has plenty of torque. It just takes
a long time to get there. I'll try a new cap.

Some grinders, like the little Baldor you own (that came from me) are not
capacitor start squirrel cage motors, rather they are split-phase motors with a
run cap permanently in the circuit. These can take longer to start, and often I
used to give a wheel a little spin just before I flicked the switch.

Those will start more slowly the bigger the inertial load they see. In other
words, if yours starts a lot faster with no wheels on it, then slows down when
you put max size wheels on it, it might be a PSC motor.

GWE
Grant,
I'm brain dead. Must be. I just read a couple months ago for the
fourth or fifth time a book about electric motors. And of course it's
a cap run motor. If it was a cap start it would still have a
centrifigul switch. I have some run caps hanging around. I'll swap one
and see what happens.
Eric

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 16:48:40 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 17:45:14 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:


I have a 6" Heavy Duty Baldor grinder that recently started to run hot
then gently waft out smoke. I flipped it upside down, replaced the
start cap with an identical one..and it still does it.

What could be the cause? Bearings are free wheeling of course. It
starts slow..and runs slow.

Do I need a rewind? (Cringe)

I dont think there is a start switch inside, though Ive not pulled the
bells.


There are capacitor run motors with no start switch, but most cap
start motors do have a start switch. Run caps are different from
start caps.

If it's an electrolytic start cap, there is a start switch. Used
to be that run caps were in metal cans, but there are plastic-cased
ones now.

Try disconnecting the cap when the motor is running. If it runs
happily then, chances are you have a stuck start switch.

Ill do just that.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Sure the new cap wasn't shorted ? Shorted it drives the coil only and would
be slow starting without the kick. Does it have a switch ? working ?
The cap if functional - bet that is it!!! - cap is ok - switch is shorted.
Then it is in start mode all of the time with extra kick current and
overheats - runs slow due to copper heating and perhaps excessive flux.

Bet the switch is the real issue. The start/run on the rotor one.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 12:00:55 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:


On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 02:25:12 GMT, tesnow@whidbeyDOTcom (Eric R Snow)
wrote:


I have a grinder that has been in the box for a little over six years
now. I bought it new a couple weeks before I had an accident that laid
me up for a while and it got put in the shed and forgotten until
today. After unpacking it I plugged it in and turned it on. It was
very slow to come up to speed. Thinking it might be bearings devoid of
lubrication which would make it hard to spin that's the first thing I
ckecked. The bearings are as they should be when new , even though
they have been idle for 6 years. Next suspect is the starting
capacitor. If it was totally shot the motor would just hum and
vibrate. But I was wondering if it could be going bad instead of being
completely bad. Does this happen to motor starting caps? And if it
does, would this make the motor take a long time accelerating uop to
speed?
Thanks,
Eric R Snow

Yes, electrolytic start caps can dry out. Easy to check, they're
cheap. Yes, if the cap were weak it would start slowly, and draw a
lot of current while struggling up to speed.

As someone else suggested, make sure you're applying the right
voltage.



I have a 6" Heavy Duty Baldor grinder that recently started to run hot
then gently waft out smoke. I flipped it upside down, replaced the
start cap with an identical one..and it still does it.

What could be the cause? Bearings are free wheeling of course. It
starts slow..and runs slow.

Do I need a rewind? (Cringe)

I dont think there is a start switch inside, though Ive not pulled the
bells.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 15:01:10 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Ignoramus14838 wrote:

yes, then try a new cap, they cost next to nothing.

Start caps are electrolytic, and they are inexpensive. Many small grinders
aren't capacitor start motors, they're split phase motors with permanent run
caps in the circuit. Those can easily cost $50. Ouch.

GWE

What??

A specially sized cap to fit in a restricted space in a tool, custom
made for the tool manufacturer, maybe. But you can always buy a
generic cap for testing before dropping big bucks on a guess.

I just bought some generic 10 Mfd 450V electrolytic run caps - the
round was $4, the oval were $4.50. And that was without shopping, I
just dropped into Johnstone and said "I Need 'Em."

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Over the years a number of people have asked (and answered) that question
here.

I see where Scientific American shows the process in their August 05
edition in the Working Knowledge article.

DOC

Buy my junk! http://www3.sympatico.ca/doc/robotone/for-sale.html

In article ,
"DOC" wrote:

Over the years a number of people have asked (and answered) that question
here.

I see where Scientific American shows the process in their August 05
edition in the Working Knowledge article.

Any photos of the "machine" for checking the balls? IIRC, it's just
a series of anvils the balls bounce across after going down a ramp. The
ones that make it across pass, the ones that fall off are rejects. I've
heard about these things, but I've never seen a photo.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
movies.crooksandliars.com/Countdown-Timeline-Katrina.mov