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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Question for the weld people out in cyberland
Hi folks
I am in a bind to do a bunch of fillet welds and found my skills are quite lacking. Basically, I am welding a 10 gauge MS channel to the face of a 1/4" MS plate. the channel has been painted in the past but has been ground clean in the weld area. I generally use my tig welder for stuff because I don't do much welding and it allowes me to produce a fairly good weld with little skill. However on this project, I need the welds to actually hold and look fairly good, as well as go more quickly than I could with the tig. I tried some tests to practice with my (buzz box) stick welder and was only able to keep a good weld fillet for about 1- 2 inches at a time before I tended to have an uneven weld, voids, etc. I only have the AC buzz box and the tig so I am limited is ways I can correct problems. I could run the DC inverter tig (powercon 400 smt) as a stick welder but I don't have the right plug for the electrode holder to fit. I guess I could scab it somehow. I tried with 1/8" 6011 rods (had problems maintaining the arc), 1/8" 6013 rods (got the best results) and 1/8" 7014 (not horrible but not as good as the 6013). That's what I had lying around. Oh yea...I was running what seemed a little high in amperage (about 150) but was having problems maintaining the arc at much lower currents. I can lay down a near perfect bead when working flat. It's the fillets that are giving me troubles. I don't have time to actually learn this right so I was hoping that someone might have some suggestions for an unskilled person who needed to get through a small job before Monday. Thanks! Koz |
#2
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Question for the weld people out in cyberland
I would go with the 6013 on AC.. If you could use the inverter that would
be my choice with 6013 electrode negative. If your fillets are a problem why not tilt the plate so that you are down into a VEE??? 150 amps is high for 1/8th electrode. Once the arc is established you can set the rod on the material with the edge of the flux touching as you drag it along. If your seam is long I would stitch weld it, no beads longer than three or four inches. Skip around to reduce distortion. Often you do not need a continuous weld. People always are overwelding. good luck, Randy "Koz" wrote in message ... Hi folks I am in a bind to do a bunch of fillet welds and found my skills are quite lacking. Basically, I am welding a 10 gauge MS channel to the face of a 1/4" MS plate. the channel has been painted in the past but has been ground clean in the weld area. I generally use my tig welder for stuff because I don't do much welding and it allowes me to produce a fairly good weld with little skill. However on this project, I need the welds to actually hold and look fairly good, as well as go more quickly than I could with the tig. I tried some tests to practice with my (buzz box) stick welder and was only able to keep a good weld fillet for about 1- 2 inches at a time before I tended to have an uneven weld, voids, etc. I only have the AC buzz box and the tig so I am limited is ways I can correct problems. I could run the DC inverter tig (powercon 400 smt) as a stick welder but I don't have the right plug for the electrode holder to fit. I guess I could scab it somehow. I tried with 1/8" 6011 rods (had problems maintaining the arc), 1/8" 6013 rods (got the best results) and 1/8" 7014 (not horrible but not as good as the 6013). That's what I had lying around. Oh yea...I was running what seemed a little high in amperage (about 150) but was having problems maintaining the arc at much lower currents. I can lay down a near perfect bead when working flat. It's the fillets that are giving me troubles. I don't have time to actually learn this right so I was hoping that someone might have some suggestions for an unskilled person who needed to get through a small job before Monday. Thanks! Koz |
#3
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Question for the weld people out in cyberland
Thanks. I'll keep practicing with the 6013
I was going to stitch weld it at about 3" on, 6" off. Unfortunately, the plates these weld to are about 30" x 24" so it's a little tough to jig up so I am working directly into the corner. I'll try to scab together something though because it's probably worth the time. Thanks again, Koz R. Zimmerman wrote: I would go with the 6013 on AC.. If you could use the inverter that would be my choice with 6013 electrode negative. If your fillets are a problem why not tilt the plate so that you are down into a VEE??? 150 amps is high for 1/8th electrode. Once the arc is established you can set the rod on the material with the edge of the flux touching as you drag it along. If your seam is long I would stitch weld it, no beads longer than three or four inches. Skip around to reduce distortion. Often you do not need a continuous weld. People always are overwelding. good luck, Randy "Koz" wrote in message ... Hi folks I am in a bind to do a bunch of fillet welds and found my skills are quite lacking. Basically, I am welding a 10 gauge MS channel to the face of a 1/4" MS plate. the channel has been painted in the past but has been ground clean in the weld area. I generally use my tig welder for stuff because I don't do much welding and it allowes me to produce a fairly good weld with little skill. However on this project, I need the welds to actually hold and look fairly good, as well as go more quickly than I could with the tig. I tried some tests to practice with my (buzz box) stick welder and was only able to keep a good weld fillet for about 1- 2 inches at a time before I tended to have an uneven weld, voids, etc. I only have the AC buzz box and the tig so I am limited is ways I can correct problems. I could run the DC inverter tig (powercon 400 smt) as a stick welder but I don't have the right plug for the electrode holder to fit. I guess I could scab it somehow. I tried with 1/8" 6011 rods (had problems maintaining the arc), 1/8" 6013 rods (got the best results) and 1/8" 7014 (not horrible but not as good as the 6013). That's what I had lying around. Oh yea...I was running what seemed a little high in amperage (about 150) but was having problems maintaining the arc at much lower currents. I can lay down a near perfect bead when working flat. It's the fillets that are giving me troubles. I don't have time to actually learn this right so I was hoping that someone might have some suggestions for an unskilled person who needed to get through a small job before Monday. Thanks! Koz |
#4
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Question for the weld people out in cyberland
You might have a local mobil welding contractor that could come out there
and mig the parts for you cheaper, better and faster than you think. I STILL have to learn that I can't do everything on time. "Koz" wrote in message ... Hi folks I am in a bind to do a bunch of fillet welds and found my skills are quite lacking. Basically, I am welding a 10 gauge MS channel to the face of a 1/4" MS plate. the channel has been painted in the past but has been ground clean in the weld area. I generally use my tig welder for stuff because I don't do much welding and it allowes me to produce a fairly good weld with little skill. However on this project, I need the welds to actually hold and look fairly good, as well as go more quickly than I could with the tig. I tried some tests to practice with my (buzz box) stick welder and was only able to keep a good weld fillet for about 1- 2 inches at a time before I tended to have an uneven weld, voids, etc. I only have the AC buzz box and the tig so I am limited is ways I can correct problems. I could run the DC inverter tig (powercon 400 smt) as a stick welder but I don't have the right plug for the electrode holder to fit. I guess I could scab it somehow. I tried with 1/8" 6011 rods (had problems maintaining the arc), 1/8" 6013 rods (got the best results) and 1/8" 7014 (not horrible but not as good as the 6013). That's what I had lying around. Oh yea...I was running what seemed a little high in amperage (about 150) but was having problems maintaining the arc at much lower currents. I can lay down a near perfect bead when working flat. It's the fillets that are giving me troubles. I don't have time to actually learn this right so I was hoping that someone might have some suggestions for an unskilled person who needed to get through a small job before Monday. Thanks! Koz |
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