Ignoramus10467 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/

Pictures of my hobart cybertig, as well as my first weld (done with
6013 sticks), are there. I used 6 gauge cables that I had lying
around. I used about 110 amps.

I bought a auto darkening adjustable helmet from Harbor Freight, which
seems to work not so badly. It cost me $54.

Comments are welcome. I need to secure some steel scrap to weld...

i

That's pretty good for a first weld. My first weld looked like pigeon
crap because I kept the arc too long. Believe it or not, I think I might
still have it somewhere in the shed! What thickness of plate are you
using? A bit of practice and your welds should be looking nice.

Chris

On Sat, 24 Sep 2005 22:49:24 GMT, Ignoramus10467
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/

Pictures of my hobart cybertig, as well as my first weld (done with
6013 sticks), are there. I used 6 gauge cables that I had lying
around. I used about 110 amps.

I bought a auto darkening adjustable helmet from Harbor Freight, which
seems to work not so badly. It cost me $54.

Comments are welcome. I need to secure some steel scrap to weld...

Not bad for a first weld. Looks like you're running a little hot for
that thickness of metal. With that thin I'd say around 80-90 amps
would be plenty and possibly to hot as well.

Don't worry about penetration. Penetration gets way to much emphasis
when joint design is more important (especially with 6013 which is a
low penetration rod). In this case you'd have two choices for joint
design. Either bevel the edges of the pieces or leave a gap to fill
up. The former is easier for a beginner.

You've got most of the controls that mine has in a different layout
and with digital controls all the way around. Differences are minor
like where mine has a hot start yours has a arc force control. Yours
also has a taper start control that mine doesn't have.

Looking at your controls I'd turn upslope time down to "0", initial
current is high for the thickness of metal you're welding but will
make it easier to start while you're learning, I'd turn all controls
to manual for stick welding.

Pulsation can be nice for thin metal with stick but wait till you
get some experience before playing with that.


High frequency can help with starting stick especially on dirty
metal. However chance of getting bit by the HF is high with stick so I
don't use it except in extreme conditions.


Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm

On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:15:26 GMT, Ignoramus10467
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:53:37 -0500, Wayne Cook wrote:
On Sat, 24 Sep 2005 22:49:24 GMT, Ignoramus10467
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/


You've got most of the controls that mine has in a different layout
and with digital controls all the way around. Differences are minor
like where mine has a hot start yours has a arc force control. Yours
also has a taper start control that mine doesn't have.


Looking at your controls I'd turn upslope time down to "0", initial
current is high for the thickness of metal you're welding but will
make it easier to start while you're learning, I'd turn all controls
to manual for stick welding.

Will do like you say. If I turn all controls to manual, what should
happen? Would the welder simply supply constant current?

Actually after looking closer I'm not sure if the upslope and weld
taper controls should be set to manual. I think based on the face of
the welder that they may cause the welder to wait for the button punch
before doing anything. However the weld mode should definitely be set
to manual.

Another question. I am not sure if the automatic sequence is working.

If I set everything to automatic, and press weld, my cybertig waits
for the preflow time, then voltage goes to 80 volts, but then nothing
new happens (at least without me striking a tig arc, which I cannot do
yet due to lack of equipment). I was hoping that it would, after the
weld time expires, go to the shutdown sequence. But that does not
happen. Maybe the welder is smarter than I think and is waiting for an
arc to be struck.

This is normal. There should be a test procedure in the manual which
basically calls for hooking a cable from the electrode terminal to the
ground terminal. If you do this then you'll be able to see the machine
step through the sequence. My recommendation is that if you do this
have the current set to a reasonable level (below 100 amps) till you
get some heavier cable in.


High frequency can help with starting stick especially on dirty
metal. However chance of getting bit by the HF is high with stick so I
don't use it except in extreme conditions.

I did not even realize that HF is available for stick welding. Thanks
for the tip. I found some old steel scraps at home, but I have very
little.

That's something you'll have to correct. Scrap metal is the main
consumption of the beginner welder. :-)

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm

On Sat, 24 Sep 2005 22:49:24 GMT, Ignoramus10467
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/

Pictures of my hobart cybertig, as well as my first weld (done with
6013 sticks), are there. I used 6 gauge cables that I had lying
around. I used about 110 amps.

I bought a auto darkening adjustable helmet from Harbor Freight, which
seems to work not so badly. It cost me $54.

Comments are welcome. I need to secure some steel scrap to weld...

i

Crank it down to about 75 amps, and run beads Lengthwise down the
center of your stock. Then run beads alongside those beads, and so
forth. Best available useage of stock for practice, and allows you to
fine tune the welder.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Ignoramus10467 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/

Pictures of my hobart cybertig, as well as my first weld (done with
6013 sticks), are there. I used 6 gauge cables that I had lying
around. I used about 110 amps.

I bought a auto darkening adjustable helmet from Harbor Freight, which
seems to work not so badly. It cost me $54.

Comments are welcome. I need to secure some steel scrap to weld...

i


Wow, that machine looks like something from a Frankenstein movie

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

Ignoramus10467 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/

Pictures of my hobart cybertig, as well as my first weld (done with
6013 sticks), are there. I used 6 gauge cables that I had lying
around. I used about 110 amps.

I bought a auto darkening adjustable helmet from Harbor Freight, which
seems to work not so badly. It cost me $54.

Comments are welcome. I need to secure some steel scrap to weld...

i

cool welder, nice first weld as well. Keep practicing, it's addicting!
good luck,
walt

Ignoramus18928 wrote:
On 25 Sep 2005 09:18:06 -0700, wallster
wrote:

Ignoramus10467 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/

Pictures of my hobart cybertig, as well as my first weld (done with
6013 sticks), are there. I used 6 gauge cables that I had lying
around. I used about 110 amps.

I bought a auto darkening adjustable helmet from Harbor Freight,
which seems to work not so badly. It cost me $54.

Comments are welcome. I need to secure some steel scrap to weld...

i

cool welder, nice first weld as well. Keep practicing, it's
addicting!

thanks... I definitely will practice... there is quite a few things
that I need to make, such as a new frame for a phase converter.

i

You have precipitated me into a move I have contemplated for a couple of
years now . Went to ebay and ordered the kit to convert my Lincoln weldpak
100 to a mig . Got way lucky , and a machinist friend *gave* me a CO2 tank
.... hoping even a lousy welder like me can run a decent looking bead with
this set-up .

--
Snag aka OSG #1
'76 FLH "Bag Lady"
BS132 SENS NEWT
"A hand shift is a manly shift ."
shamelessly stolen

Ignoramus18928 wrote:
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 13:02:36 -0500, Snag
wrote:
Ignoramus18928 wrote:
On 25 Sep 2005 09:18:06 -0700, wallster
wrote:

Ignoramus10467 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/

Pictures of my hobart cybertig, as well as my first weld (done
with 6013 sticks), are there. I used 6 gauge cables that I had
lying around. I used about 110 amps.

I bought a auto darkening adjustable helmet from Harbor Freight,
which seems to work not so badly. It cost me $54.

Comments are welcome. I need to secure some steel scrap to weld...

i

cool welder, nice first weld as well. Keep practicing, it's
addicting!

thanks... I definitely will practice... there is quite a few things
that I need to make, such as a new frame for a phase converter.

i

You have precipitated me into a move I have contemplated for a
couple of years now . Went to ebay and ordered the kit to convert my
Lincoln weldpak 100 to a mig . Got way lucky , and a machinist
friend *gave* me a CO2 tank ... hoping even a lousy welder like me
can run a decent looking bead with this set-up .

Sounds exciting... What sort of turned me away from mig and towards
stick/tig, is that mig welding may produce beautiful looking welds
that do not adhere. My knowledge of welding is next to nothing, so
please do not consider me to be any kind of authority. Keep us posted!

i

What tipped me over the edge is that your first welds looked about as good
as what I'm doing - even a lousy welder oughta be able to make a better
looking bead after 30+ years tryin' ... a good friend works in the oil
pipeline supply industry , has warned me about those non-penetrating welds ,
and told me how to avoid that . Seems it's a matter of wire feed rate vs
heat range settings . Just gotta be sure you're melting the base metal , and
that your filler is compatible .
Or something like that , gotta find that email and re-read it .

--
Snag aka OSG #1
'76 FLH "Bag Lady"
BS132 SENS NEWT
"A hand shift is a manly shift ."
shamelessly stolen

Ignoramus18928 wrote:

Makes sense. If you buy something, keep us updated... welding really
is fun and can save a lot of time and $$./.. I want to build a trailer
one day.

i

After you've got the welder might find you need a saw. With practice you
can make very neat cuts with a hand hacksaw, but it really makes you
sweat on larger sections :-).

Chris

PS: My saw is fixed. Sticky contactor mechanism. Yay!

Ignoramus18928 wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:42:34 +0000 (UTC), Christopher Tidy wrote:

Ignoramus18928 wrote:


Makes sense. If you buy something, keep us updated... welding really
is fun and can save a lot of time and $$./.. I want to build a trailer
one day.

i

After you've got the welder might find you need a saw. With practice you
can make very neat cuts with a hand hacksaw, but it really makes you
sweat on larger sections :-).

Chris

PS: My saw is fixed. Sticky contactor mechanism. Yay!



trust me, I did a lot of sawing with a hack saw... never liked it...

I think it gets easier with practice. At least that's what I found. If I
need to do cut-outs in angle section for making welded frameworks I find
that a hand hacksaw is the neatest way to do it.

Chris

On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:59:08 +0000 (UTC), Christopher Tidy
wrote:

Ignoramus18928 wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:42:34 +0000 (UTC), Christopher Tidy wrote:

Ignoramus18928 wrote:


Makes sense. If you buy something, keep us updated... welding really
is fun and can save a lot of time and $$./.. I want to build a trailer
one day.

i

After you've got the welder might find you need a saw. With practice you
can make very neat cuts with a hand hacksaw, but it really makes you
sweat on larger sections :-).

Chris

PS: My saw is fixed. Sticky contactor mechanism. Yay!



trust me, I did a lot of sawing with a hack saw... never liked it...

I think it gets easier with practice. At least that's what I found. If I
need to do cut-outs in angle section for making welded frameworks I find
that a hand hacksaw is the neatest way to do it.

Chris

My dad taught me to use a moderate speed, spread feet apart, get
comfortable. Most folks I have seen at work were sawing way too fast.

Pete Keillor

In rec.crafts.metalworking Christopher Tidy wrote:
Ignoramus18928 wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:42:34 +0000 (UTC), Christopher Tidy wrote:

Ignoramus18928 wrote:


Makes sense. If you buy something, keep us updated... welding really
is fun and can save a lot of time and $$./.. I want to build a trailer
one day.

i

After you've got the welder might find you need a saw. With practice you
can make very neat cuts with a hand hacksaw, but it really makes you
sweat on larger sections :-).

Chris

PS: My saw is fixed. Sticky contactor mechanism. Yay!



trust me, I did a lot of sawing with a hack saw... never liked it...

I think it gets easier with practice. At least that's what I found. If I
need to do cut-outs in angle section for making welded frameworks I find
that a hand hacksaw is the neatest way to do it.

Chris

Sawing with the longest possible stroke really helps. Your blaces will
last longer and not get dull in the middle like if you saw really fast
with short strokes.

Pete Keillor wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:59:08 +0000 (UTC), Christopher Tidy
wrote:


Ignoramus18928 wrote:

On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:42:34 +0000 (UTC), Christopher Tidy wrote:


Ignoramus18928 wrote:



Makes sense. If you buy something, keep us updated... welding really
is fun and can save a lot of time and $$./.. I want to build a trailer
one day.

i

After you've got the welder might find you need a saw. With practice you
can make very neat cuts with a hand hacksaw, but it really makes you
sweat on larger sections :-).

Chris

PS: My saw is fixed. Sticky contactor mechanism. Yay!



trust me, I did a lot of sawing with a hack saw... never liked it...

I think it gets easier with practice. At least that's what I found. If I
need to do cut-outs in angle section for making welded frameworks I find
that a hand hacksaw is the neatest way to do it.

Chris


My dad taught me to use a moderate speed, spread feet apart, get
comfortable. Most folks I have seen at work were sawing way too fast.

You're dad's just right. If you saw too fast, you get careless and don't
push the saw straight. Then the blade jams and you break it. I lost
count of the number of my dad's hacksaw blades I broke when I first got
interested in metalwork :-).

Chris

"Christopher Tidy" wrote:
Pete Keillor wrote:
My dad taught me to use a moderate speed, spread feet apart, get
comfortable. Most folks I have seen at work were sawing way too fast.

You're dad's just right. If you saw too fast, you get careless and don't
push the saw straight. Then the blade jams and you break it. I lost
count of the number of my dad's hacksaw blades I broke when I first got
interested in metalwork :-).

That's the technique I use as well, although I use it with a cutoff whell in
the angle grinder.

Jon