Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Carl Ijames
 
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Default MIG and 304 stainless steel

Thank you, Ernie. He was using C25 (my mistake), but today he picked up
a little bottle of ar-co2-he, followed your suggestions about stickout
and lower wire feed speed, and things are looking much, much better. He
did have to turn up the current some, not down, but I'm sure that's just
a matter of balancing the wire feed speed and welding speed that he is
using. The beads look clean but there is a little "halo" of black
sooty-looking stuff alongside of each bead. Is that just as good as it
gets, or is it possible to make it look as clean as TIG?

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames

"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message
...
In article , Carl Ijames
wrote:

Basically, how do you do it? We need to weld up some structural

304SS
pieces (3/8" rod welded to 16 ga C channels, and other stuff of

similar
size) and TIG would just take forever. Our welder is great with MIG

and
mild steel, and TIG on aluminum and stainless, but so far hasn't had

any
success with MIG and stainless. He is using 308 wire (0.035 I

think),
pure argon shield gas, and dc reverse polarity (I think; whatever is
normal for TIG and SS). Practice beads on 16 ga sheet have way too

much
heat and penetration. Any advice and experiences would be very

helpful.
Thanks.

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames




Wrong gas.
You want a Helium or Oxygen Tri-mix.
Argon-CO2-Helium, or Argon-CO2-Oxygen.

Argon is way too cold for MIG on Stainless.

Pure Argon is used for MIG aluminum.

You can run a C25 gas (75% Argon, 25% CO2), but the welds will be
really gray, and you will get more spatter.

Keep the wire stickout as short as possible.
You want the contact tip flush or even a little pround of the gas
nozzle, not recessed.

Stainless steel wire is really bad at conducting power, so you have to
keep it as short as possible, and use a really hot gas mix.

He will have to weld fast or just dial the machine way down.
Try 16 volts, and 160 Inches /Minute.



  #2   Report Post  
Ernie Leimkuhler
 
Posts: n/a
Default MIG and 304 stainless steel

In article , Carl Ijames
wrote:

Thank you, Ernie. He was using C25 (my mistake), but today he picked up
a little bottle of ar-co2-he, followed your suggestions about stickout
and lower wire feed speed, and things are looking much, much better. He
did have to turn up the current some, not down, but I'm sure that's just
a matter of balancing the wire feed speed and welding speed that he is
using. The beads look clean but there is a little "halo" of black
sooty-looking stuff alongside of each bead. Is that just as good as it
gets, or is it possible to make it look as clean as TIG?

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames


You never will get SS MIG welds to look like TIG welds, unless you
invest is an inverter based pulsing power supply, and use some extra
jets of purging gas.

The process just creates too much smut around the weld, but that smut
can be removed chemically with a pickling paste or electro-cleaning
process.

An excellent product that I have been using for about a year now is
Citrisurf.
It is a Citric Acid based cleaning solution that is used in conjunction
with low voltage electricity.

Check out
http://www.stellarsolutions.net/

They are still working on finding distributors.
I went ahead and bought a 33 lb. keg of the powder concentrate.
I resold what I didn't need to other small shops.

You can use a small battery charger as the electric source.

I use a Marking Methods Electro-etching power supply.

The stuff is magic and completely non-toxic.









"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message
...
In article , Carl Ijames
wrote:

Basically, how do you do it? We need to weld up some structural

304SS
pieces (3/8" rod welded to 16 ga C channels, and other stuff of

similar
size) and TIG would just take forever. Our welder is great with MIG

and
mild steel, and TIG on aluminum and stainless, but so far hasn't had

any
success with MIG and stainless. He is using 308 wire (0.035 I

think),
pure argon shield gas, and dc reverse polarity (I think; whatever is
normal for TIG and SS). Practice beads on 16 ga sheet have way too

much
heat and penetration. Any advice and experiences would be very

helpful.
Thanks.

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames



Wrong gas.
You want a Helium or Oxygen Tri-mix.
Argon-CO2-Helium, or Argon-CO2-Oxygen.

Argon is way too cold for MIG on Stainless.

Pure Argon is used for MIG aluminum.

You can run a C25 gas (75% Argon, 25% CO2), but the welds will be
really gray, and you will get more spatter.

Keep the wire stickout as short as possible.
You want the contact tip flush or even a little pround of the gas
nozzle, not recessed.

Stainless steel wire is really bad at conducting power, so you have to
keep it as short as possible, and use a really hot gas mix.

He will have to weld fast or just dial the machine way down.
Try 16 volts, and 160 Inches /Minute.



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