Need to paint the aluminum cover for a small enclosure intended for
indoor use. I see zinc chromate and phosphate mentioned regularly as
prime candidates, however, don't want to use either. More interested in
suggestions along the lines of using ferric chloride or TSP to "etch"
the surface then use regular non-hazardous primer. How effective would
this approach be for an indoor item? Final paint coating will be black.

wrote:
Need to paint the aluminum cover for a small enclosure intended for
indoor use. I see zinc chromate and phosphate mentioned regularly as
prime candidates, however, don't want to use either. More interested in
suggestions along the lines of using ferric chloride or TSP to "etch"
the surface then use regular non-hazardous primer. How effective would
this approach be for an indoor item? Final paint coating will be black.


It will work okay unless the cover will be handled roughly, or extensively.

One simple method is to wash thoroughly until water beads on it, then
mix up a dilute solution of Drano, or any drain cleaner containing
sodium hydroxide. Soaking an hour or so in that solution will etch
surface. Then Krylon or automotive primer followed by black.

There is also a substance called "aluminum jelly", I believe, that puts
a conversion coating on the aluminum. This can then be primed and
painted. A little more work, but makes for a tougher result.

It will work okay unless the cover will be handled roughly, or extensively.

Thanks Don. Came across a black self etching primer made by Eastwood
Company suitable for bare aluminum and called them. They said it's
hazardous but there is no HAZMAT shipping fee and a respirator is not
required, just use in a well ventilated area. Couldn't find a MSDS.
They also said if a flat black finish is desired then the primer is all
that's needed. Sounds good to me....Anybody familiar with Eastwood's
self etching primer or products? Their chassis black seems quite
popular.

On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 09:18:15 -0500, the opaque Don Stauffer
clearly wrote:

wrote:
suggestions along the lines of using ferric chloride or TSP to "etch"
the surface then use regular non-hazardous primer. How effective would

One simple method is to wash thoroughly until water beads on it, then

Did you mean "beads" or "sheets", Don?


---------------------------------------------------
I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
---------------------------------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Refreshing Graphic Design

On 12 Jul 2005 06:25:21 -0700, wrote:

Need to paint the aluminum cover for a small enclosure intended for
indoor use. I see zinc chromate and phosphate mentioned regularly as
prime candidates, however, don't want to use either. More interested in
suggestions along the lines of using ferric chloride or TSP to "etch"
the surface then use regular non-hazardous primer. How effective would
this approach be for an indoor item? Final paint coating will be black.

PPG alumaprep does contain phosphoric acid -- but it isn't nearly as
nasty as ferric chloride.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 09:18:15 -0500, the opaque Don Stauffer
clearly wrote:


wrote:

suggestions along the lines of using ferric chloride or TSP to "etch"
the surface then use regular non-hazardous primer. How effective would


One simple method is to wash thoroughly until water beads on it, then


Did you mean "beads" or "sheets", Don?


---------------------------------------------------
I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
---------------------------------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Refreshing Graphic Design
Gee, I forget now which way it goes :-) I'll need to try it again.

When considering paint prep and finishing products for metals, there aren't
many non-hazardous products to use. Press-on vinyl film products would be
about the least hazardous.
I suppose you're wanting to order a product, and want to avoid the hazardous
shipping fees.

You can paint a bare aluminum (clean, not anodized) panel for indoor use,
without special treatment or primers, if you'd care to.
Scuffing the surface with fine abrasive or a 3M/Scotch-type pad will give
the surface enough roughness for good adhesion. You would want to wipe it
down immediately after scuffing with a solvent that will not leave an oily
residue (such as acetone or lacquer thinner), and then apply the paint
immediately. Having already previously shaken and agitated the paint, a
few-ten more shakes should be adequate.

Using a primer will provide some filler, so the scratches from the scuffing
will be less noticeable. Spray can primers are very thin, with very low
solids content, so they don't provide much in the way of filling or
leveling.

The diluted phosphoric etches aren't extremely hazardous to use, you can
find phosphoric acid in a lot of beverages and foods. If you have a small
cut on a finger, it will sting, about the same as grapefruit juice will.

I've seen aerosol cans of self-etching primers at auto parts stores, and
other places with paint departments. This type of primer from one source
probably won't be any better than one from another.

Breathing any airborne refinishing product or the vapors is not a good idea.
A well ventilated area is outdoors, where there is usually less possible
sources of ignition.

WB
................

wrote in message
oups.com...
Need to paint the aluminum cover for a small enclosure intended for
indoor use. I see zinc chromate and phosphate mentioned regularly as
prime candidates, however, don't want to use either. More interested in
suggestions along the lines of using ferric chloride or TSP to "etch"
the surface then use regular non-hazardous primer. How effective would
this approach be for an indoor item? Final paint coating will be black.





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wrote in message
oups.com...
Need to paint the aluminum cover for a small enclosure intended for
indoor use. I see zinc chromate and phosphate mentioned regularly as
prime candidates, however, don't want to use either. More interested in
suggestions along the lines of using ferric chloride or TSP to "etch"
the surface then use regular non-hazardous primer. How effective would
this approach be for an indoor item? Final paint coating will be black.


Considered having the part anodized instead ???

--

SVL

Press-on vinyl film products would be
about the least hazardous.

Very effective in the form of printable media allowing the finish to
include text.

I suppose you're wanting to order a product, and want to avoid the hazardous
shipping fees.

That plus the "for shop use only" and "use a real respirator not a dust
mask" warnings I've seen associated with zinc chromate use.

Breathing any airborne refinishing product or the vapors is not a good idea.

Tell me about it....Have something called Laser Buddy used for
archiving laser print. Use it with the press-on film mentioned above. I
hold my breath, quickly spray then run (literally) even in a well
ventilated area. The fumes from that thing are bad news compared to the
usuals like acetone, xylol, MEK etc. that I handle from time to time.

Considered having the part anodized instead ???

Yes, in fact I have all the components for over a year now (cooler,
sulphuric acid, dyes etc.) to anodize it myself but it would be my
first go at it so some practice will be needed. Leaving that for a
bigger project. Giving it out to be anodized would be a last resort.