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| Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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I have a Jet 1024 and I was turning down a back plate for a chuck, in
back gear. All of a sudden it slowed and stopped. Not a "clunk" stop, more like the brakes being applied. I determined that the spindle pulley is binding and I plan to remove it. Here is an exploded parts view of the spindle, with the non-obvious parts id'ed: http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...he_spindle.jpg I removed the outboard lock nuts and feed drive gear, and the set screw in the retaining ring. I assume that the spindle is removed by driving/pulling it out the inboard side. Before that: - does the bull gear key clear the seals and bearing inner race, or do I have to remove them? On the diagram, the spindle diameter is smaller where the key is, but is it small enough? - if the seals and bearing don't have to be removed, does the end plate have to? - there are holes on each side in the top of the spindle housing: http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...le_housing.jpg that look like lube holes, but the spindle bearing are lubed from the front (reservoir and sight glass). Could there be set screws in there to retain the outer race? But the outer race wouldn't have to be removed anyhow, so I guess that's moot. Anybody know of any gotcha's? I'd say that pulling the spindle out is better than driving it out, but I'd have to make a puller. Is it enough better to be worth making the puller? Thanks, Bob |
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#2
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Bob Engelhardt wrote:
I have a Jet 1024 and I was turning down a back plate for a chuck, in back gear. All of a sudden it slowed and stopped. Not a "clunk" stop, more like the brakes being applied. I determined that the spindle pulley is binding and I plan to remove it. Here is an exploded parts view of the spindle, with the non-obvious parts id'ed: http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...he_spindle.jpg I removed the outboard lock nuts and feed drive gear, and the set screw in the retaining ring. I assume that the spindle is removed by driving/pulling it out the inboard side. Before that: - does the bull gear key clear the seals and bearing inner race, or do I have to remove them? On the diagram, the spindle diameter is smaller where the key is, but is it small enough? - if the seals and bearing don't have to be removed, does the end plate have to? - there are holes on each side in the top of the spindle housing: http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhar...le_housing.jpg that look like lube holes, but the spindle bearing are lubed from the front (reservoir and sight glass). Could there be set screws in there to retain the outer race? But the outer race wouldn't have to be removed anyhow, so I guess that's moot. Anybody know of any gotcha's? I'd say that pulling the spindle out is better than driving it out, but I'd have to make a puller. Is it enough better to be worth making the puller? I have the same lathe and I pulled the spindle to change the belt and clean and lub it. I removed mine from the bed side. I remember fighting the keys, but not which ones. I also remember fetching my wife and having her catch the spindle while I supported one side of it and tapped it out with a rubber mallet. Definitely a 3 hand job. I disassembled most of the headstock shafts and gears to clean and lub and a recurrent problem was shafts binding because setscrews had turned up a burrs on shafts. I filed small flats for all of the setscrews when I reassembled it. From what I can gather from your description, the coaxial shaft for the back gear is frozen to the spindle shaft. If so, I strongly suggest you squirt a bunch of penetrating oil into the oil hole and try to free it *before* attempting disassembly. If it is stuck while you're trying to free the spindle, you won't have any feel for the amount of force you're putting on the spindle bearings. Good luck. I wished I could remember more to help you. |
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#3
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Jim Stewart wrote:
.... From what I can gather from your description, the coaxial shaft for the back gear is frozen to the spindle shaft. If so, I strongly suggest you squirt a bunch of penetrating oil into the oil hole and try to free it *before* attempting disassembly. ... Good point, thanks. Bob |
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#4
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One of the many advantages of using a VFD with a lathe is that you will
likely never need back gear. Randy "Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message ... Jim Stewart wrote: ... From what I can gather from your description, the coaxial shaft for the back gear is frozen to the spindle shaft. If so, I strongly suggest you squirt a bunch of penetrating oil into the oil hole and try to free it *before* attempting disassembly. ... Good point, thanks. Bob |
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