"Ignoramus3635" wrote in message
...
do you use teflon tapes when you screw in male adapters in your air
tools?

yes, or pipe dope

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 16:34:34 GMT, Ignoramus3635
wrote:

do you use teflon tapes when you screw in male adapters in your air
tools?

I prefer pipe dope, to avoid getting bits of teflon tape in the air
tool.

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 16:34:34 GMT, Ignoramus3635
wrote:

do you use teflon tapes when you screw in male adapters in your air
tools?

i

I only use pipe dope. I repair cnc machines for a living..and have
found too many solenoids stuck open because of a tiny piece of teflon
tape that found its way to that solenoid.

But if you are simply gonna fill tires, run a grinder etc..tape is
good. Its just habit with me to grab the PTF dope and do it.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

In article ,
Don Foreman wrote:

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 16:34:34 GMT, Ignoramus3635
wrote:

do you use teflon tapes when you screw in male adapters in your air
tools?

I prefer pipe dope, to avoid getting bits of teflon tape in the air
tool.

I've long wondered about this: wouldn't drops of pipe dope in the air
tool be equally hazardous?
I use teflon tape because it's cheaper and less of a mess--especially
with air tools that I'll be handling.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 22:34:48 -0500, "B.B."
u wrote:

In article ,
Don Foreman wrote:

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 16:34:34 GMT, Ignoramus3635
wrote:

do you use teflon tapes when you screw in male adapters in your air
tools?

I prefer pipe dope, to avoid getting bits of teflon tape in the air
tool.

I've long wondered about this: wouldn't drops of pipe dope in the air
tool be equally hazardous?

Actually in my experience, YMMV, no, as the drops tend to bleed out
through the exhaust ports and whatnot if you goobered a bunch into the
pipeing.

I use teflon tape because it's cheaper and less of a mess--especially
with air tools that I'll be handling.

Pipe dope properly applied has little mess. But as I indicated in my
opinion..tape works for that sort of thing.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

On Sat, 09 Jul 2005 22:34:48 -0500, "B.B."
u wrote:


I've long wondered about this: wouldn't drops of pipe dope in the air
tool be equally hazardous?
I use teflon tape because it's cheaper and less of a mess--especially
with air tools that I'll be handling.

Pipe dope with micropulverized teflont won't jam an air motor, shreds
from tape might.

Having said that, I have used tape and have never had it jam up an air
tool.

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman

BIG SNIP

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

Hey Don,

I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to
aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat
operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have
it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or
globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6
feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!

Good tip though. Thanks.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 07:52:19 -0400, the opaque Brian Lawson
clearly wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman

BIG SNIP

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

Hey Don,

I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to
aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat
operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have
it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or
globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6
feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!

Brian, he said "lighbulb bases" (male part), not sockets. I just tried
it and about a split-pea amount of aluminum anti-seize is enough for a
couple bulbs. I think I'll cut down an acid brush for use with
anti-seize to keep it off my fingers. That stuff is truly pervasively
messy!


Good tip though. Thanks.

Yeah, thanks, Don.


--
- Tom Mix Died For Your Sins -
--------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive, Sin-free Website Development

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 07:52:19 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman

BIG SNIP

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

Hey Don,

I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to
aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat
operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have
it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or
globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6
feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!

Good tip though. Thanks.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

How about a layer of teflon tape?
Randy

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 07:52:19 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman

BIG SNIP

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

Hey Don,

I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to
aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat
operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have
it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or
globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6
feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!

Good tip though. Thanks.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

How about a layer of teflon tape?
Randy
Don't want to *insulate* it - just *lubricate* it.....
Ken.

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 14:55:11 GMT, Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 07:52:19 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman

BIG SNIP

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

Hey Don,

I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to
aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat
operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have
it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or
globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6
feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!

Good tip though. Thanks.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

How about a layer of teflon tape?
Randy
Don't want to *insulate* it - just *lubricate* it.....
Ken.

Oh, yeah. Duh.
Randy

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 07:52:19 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman

BIG SNIP

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

Hey Don,

I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to
aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat
operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have
it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or
globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6
feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!

My can of anti-sieze has a brush attached to the screw-on cap. I just
touch the bulb base with the brush, smear that very wee dab around
with my finger so it's nearly invisible, and wipe my finger on a
paper towel -- this all done in the garage.

In article , Don Foreman says...

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

What kind of anti-sieze, Don?

I've got nickle based, MoS2, and I just bought one of
those copper-based sticks from locktite.

Doesn't the grease tend to smoke out of the stuff?

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

On 10 Jul 2005 09:26:16 -0700, jim rozen
wrote:


What kind of anti-sieze, Don?

I've got nickle based, MoS2, and I just bought one of
those copper-based sticks from locktite.

Doesn't the grease tend to smoke out of the stuff?

"Never-Seez" by Bostik, cat # NSBT-8. "Extreme heat -- over 2000F"
"The anti-sieze compound with a million ball bearings" This can
must be at least 20 years old, came from my late father-in-law's
shop. I'd guess it's nickel-based because of the gray color.

It doesn't seem to smoke when it's hot.

Ah! Here it is:
http://www.bostik.com.au/pdf/datashe...purenickel.pdf
The can says it's from Broadview, IL.

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 07:52:19 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman

BIG SNIP

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

Hey Don,

I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to
aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat
operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have
it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or
globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6
feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!

Good tip though. Thanks.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

I put on a very thin smear of petroleum jelly. Works fine.

Pete Keillor

On the other hand then it will never burn out and need replacing again.
Problem solved and saves money.
Karl

Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 07:52:19 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman

BIG SNIP

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

Hey Don,

I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to
aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat
operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have
it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or
globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6
feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!

Good tip though. Thanks.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

How about a layer of teflon tape?
Randy
Don't want to *insulate* it - just *lubricate* it.....
Ken.

In article , Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 07:52:19 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 01:15:23 -0500, Don Foreman

BIG SNIP

I don't mind doing a wipe with a paper towel. Heck, I even smear
anti-sieze on aluminum lightbulb bases (scrwed into aluminum sockets)
to make them easy to extract when they die. Works a treat with baby
spots in track lights with no finger room.

Hey Don,

I've sure got to agree about the "stickiness" of aluminum base to
aluminum sockets, especially in 100 watt or greater and/or high-heat
operational bulbs. But how do you "apply" the anti-seize? I'd have
it all over the ceiling, and/or track-work, and/or lamp-shade, and/or
globe, and/or ladder, or, or, or, or, AND whatever else is within 6
feet if I did it the way I do a bolt or stud!!

Good tip though. Thanks.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

I put on a very thin smear of petroleum jelly. Works fine.

Pete Keillor

I just scribble on them with a soft pencil. Graphite is conductive
IIRC, and it's a very thin layer anyway. Cheap, handy, not messy. YMMV.

j-