Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
South Bend lathe with bad babbit bearing ..help!
I have a South Bend 10K model A lathe with a "frozen" bearing on the
right end of the lead screw. I pulled the quick change gearbox and the bearing mount loose, so I could pull it off the shaft. The casting can be turned on the end of the lead screw shaft, but only with a great deal of force. And, it isn't going to slide off. In the manual it shows a little block of babbit associated with the one piece casting. In the back of the casting are two ~1/4" holes filled with babbit. I did a google search and found some mentions of South Bend and babbit bearings, but not exactly how to redo these. Has anyone ever replaced one of these? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
South Bend lathe with bad babbit bearing ..help!
I did a google search and found some mentions of South Bend and babbit
bearings, but not exactly how to redo these. Has anyone ever replaced one of these? Lindsay sells some books on the subject - one of them by Vince Gingery. They are pretty good and a whole lot better than any abbreviated instruction you are going to get on a NG. Bob Swinney "Ken Moffett" wrote in message ... I have a South Bend 10K model A lathe with a "frozen" bearing on the right end of the lead screw. I pulled the quick change gearbox and the bearing mount loose, so I could pull it off the shaft. The casting can be turned on the end of the lead screw shaft, but only with a great deal of force. And, it isn't going to slide off. In the manual it shows a little block of babbit associated with the one piece casting. In the back of the casting are two ~1/4" holes filled with babbit. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
South Bend lathe with bad babbit bearing ..help!
Ken Moffett wrote: I have a South Bend 10K model A lathe with a "frozen" bearing on the right end of the lead screw. I pulled the quick change gearbox and the bearing mount loose, so I could pull it off the shaft. The casting can be turned on the end of the lead screw shaft, but only with a great deal of force. And, it isn't going to slide off. In the manual it shows a little block of babbit associated with the one piece casting. In the back of the casting are two ~1/4" holes filled with babbit. If it is really Babbit, it should be possible to wring the bearing off the shaft. Of course, it will chew up the bearing a bit, but it is already in trouble. If it is actually a bronze bushing, it may be VERY difficult to get it off. You should try to work a light oil into the bearing, and keep twisting it back and forth and try to get the bearing moving off the end of the screw. If you can get them separated, you should be able to clean up the end of the screw and ream out the bearing. If it is not too badly mangled, you might be able to just lube it good and put it back together. If not, you can look at making up a bronze insert. Even without the leadscrew, your lathe is the perfect machine to repair this part. But, if repouring the babbit is the way you want to go, it is not that hard. First, you melt out the old babbit. Then, you probably need some more babbit metal to make enough to repour. You may or may not need "dams" to keep the babbit from leaking out the ends. You use a candle or acetylene (without the Oxygen) flame to soot up the shaft. general practice is to put 3 layers of soot on the shaft. Insert the shaft into the casting and align it in the bore with whatever method will work. Apply dams to the ends if there is a lot of clearance. Centering plugs of wood can do both the aligning and damming function in one, and can be cut on the lathe. make from wood so they don't get soldered to the bearing. Now, you pour the babbit into the bearing - you may want to preheat the casting a bit first. When it has cooled, you pull the shaft out. If you got enough soot on it, it won't be terribly hard to pull out. A little careful reaming and drilling of oil holes should be all that is needed, and it will be ready to go. This is a low-speed bearing, and a lot less critical than a spindle bearing, say. Jon |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
South Bend lathe with bad babbit bearing ..help!
I think I would try soaking it in a bucket of kerosene for a few days before deciding that the bearing needed to be replaced. Chances are that it will free up. People sometimes try to lubricate hobby lathes with strange things. I once had a lathe that had several accessories coated with linseed oil. Lousy lubricant but a decent preservative. It forms a rubbery film. It took a long time to clean it out of the die head. Cheers, Kelley On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 18:48:29 GMT, Ken Moffett wrote: I have a South Bend 10K model A lathe with a "frozen" bearing on the right end of the lead screw. I pulled the quick change gearbox and the bearing mount loose, so I could pull it off the shaft. The casting can be turned on the end of the lead screw shaft, but only with a great deal of force. And, it isn't going to slide off. In the manual it shows a little block of babbit associated with the one piece casting. In the back of the casting are two ~1/4" holes filled with babbit. I did a google search and found some mentions of South Bend and babbit bearings, but not exactly how to redo these. Has anyone ever replaced one of these? |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
South Bend lathe with bad babbit bearing ..help!
Maybe a jerk of a person putting a little sugar or something into the
wide mouth oil pot. Likely just out in a hot sun. Martin -- Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
south bend 10L lathe | Metalworking | |||
Rockwell and South bend | Metalworking | |||
FS- South Bend 13" | Metalworking |