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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Teflon coating of metal - possible/practical for home shop?
Teflon (or generically fluoropolymer or non-stick) coatings have an
appeal for certain jobs (like the inside of snowblowers and lawnmowers) where manufacturers have chosen not to put them. I've always assumed that the process is beyond small-shop capabilities, and gone in with paint and wax when the rust and sticking of stuff that should slide out is too bad. Is there some system that could work in a small shop, and is accessible to mere humans without DuPont licenses and/or giant heat-treating ovens? Or particular (easily available) paints that do a better job of approximating the effect, without being members of that family...? |
#2
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On Thu, 05 May 2005 03:17:39 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote: Teflon (or generically fluoropolymer or non-stick) coatings have an appeal for certain jobs (like the inside of snowblowers and lawnmowers) where manufacturers have chosen not to put them. I've always assumed that the process is beyond small-shop capabilities, and gone in with paint and wax when the rust and sticking of stuff that should slide out is too bad. Is there some system that could work in a small shop, and is accessible to mere humans without DuPont licenses and/or giant heat-treating ovens? Or particular (easily available) paints that do a better job of approximating the effect, without being members of that family...? There are commercial outfits that do it. The only time I tried it, I coated the screws of an extruder. The coating lasted about 10 seconds in use. I didn't expect it to last, but was hoping for long enough to run an experiment. Something that did work was PolyOnd. That's Teflon bits embedded in a nickel matrix. Of course, the conditions in an extruder are extreme for a coating. Not as bad as the cutting edge of a tool, but lots of rubbing at 200+ C for 24/7 operation. Pete Keillor |
#3
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I've applied and used Teflon (At work) for years, the reality is that you
can spray it at home and bake it in your own oven. The biggest problem is putting the coating on to thick and having it blister, Teflon is a nice but it just won't last through abuse. If I really wanted to protect something I'd be looking at Nylon powder coating, or Nylon/Teflon coating. Teflon scratches to easy and will never last. You can apply Teflon at home if you have a nice clean shop, sand blaster, and oven. Otherwise find a local shop and work something out, if your not in a hurry things can be done very reasonable. I'd be willing to pass on the name of the company in the Sarnia (Ontario) / Port Huron MI if you like. |
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We use the "slip-plate" type of graphite paint (sold at farm implement
dealers for grain elevators & such) on the underside of our snowmobile chassis' to shed snow & ice... and I've used it on the business end of lawnmowers & snowblowers. http://www.slipplate.com/ It works well, but is kind of messy if you rub up against it... hopefully not an issue under mower decks or inside snowblower chutes! LOL David "Ecnerwal" wrote in message ... Teflon (or generically fluoropolymer or non-stick) coatings have an appeal for certain jobs (like the inside of snowblowers and lawnmowers) where manufacturers have chosen not to put them. I've always assumed that the process is beyond small-shop capabilities, and gone in with paint and wax when the rust and sticking of stuff that should slide out is too bad. Is there some system that could work in a small shop, and is accessible to mere humans without DuPont licenses and/or giant heat-treating ovens? Or particular (easily available) paints that do a better job of approximating the effect, without being members of that family...? |
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David Courtney wrote: We use the "slip-plate" type of graphite paint (sold at farm implement dealers for grain elevators & such) on the underside of our snowmobile chassis' to shed snow & ice... and I've used it on the business end of lawnmowers & snowblowers. http://www.slipplate.com/ It works well, but is kind of messy if you rub up against it... hopefully not an issue under mower decks or inside snowblower chutes! LOL David I'd have to second that for Slip Plate paint. My dad tried a lot of stuff on his snow plow blade, Slip Plate worked the best to keep the snow from sticking. Applied it over a coat of Rustoleum, then masked off the black face and painted narrow diagonal yellow stripes on it. I never thought of using it under a mower deck, I'll have to try that. We used to get it from TSC, I'm sure other ag equipment dealers would probably have it. Stan |
#6
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On Thu, 05 May 2005 03:17:39 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote: Teflon (or generically fluoropolymer or non-stick) coatings have an appeal for certain jobs (like the inside of snowblowers and lawnmowers) where manufacturers have chosen not to put them. I've always assumed that the process is beyond small-shop capabilities, and gone in with paint and wax when the rust and sticking of stuff that should slide out is too bad. Is there some system that could work in a small shop, and is accessible to mere humans without DuPont licenses and/or giant heat-treating ovens? Or particular (easily available) paints that do a better job of approximating the effect, without being members of that family...? For the mower, if you have room, screw some 1/4 " UHMW in the wear areas. Besides being pretty slick, it is VERY resistant to abrasion. It has to be mechanically fixed in place, with bolts and plates or deeply countersunk holes, etc. But it will last longer than the mower deck above it. I know this really doesn't help with the coating problem the way you hope to solve it but teflon isn't durable enough for your application. Even teflon sheet would not work well for this. It's too soft and would just be pulled off the bolts. ERS |
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Ecnerwal wrote: Teflon (or generically fluoropolymer or non-stick) coatings have an appeal for certain jobs (like the inside of snowblowers and lawnmowers) where manufacturers have chosen not to put them. I've always assumed that the process is beyond small-shop capabilities, and gone in with paint and wax when the rust and sticking of stuff that should slide out is too bad. Is there some system that could work in a small shop, and is accessible to mere humans without DuPont licenses and/or giant heat-treating ovens? Or particular (easily available) paints that do a better job of approximating the effect, without being members of that family...? To do it right, you have to clean like a suminagun, sandblast, zinc phosphate (or similar) to make a good surface for adhesion, coat evenly and bake evenly. Even then, it won't hold up all that well. Any hydroxide type solution including many soaps will start the peeling process. PTFE coating basically sucks. Another option better for home application may be found at http://www.sandstromproducts.com/solventsfl.htm. We've used their 9A product over the years as a corrosion protectant. It also seems to act as a reduced stick surface. I once had some sample parts shot-peened and many people assumed the surface was PTFE as it felt "slippery". A LOT of people (including the military) use this on gun parts. Koz |
#9
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I have a need for a very abrasion-resistant coating on aluminum that will
resist sticking of wet sugars under high compression. If a very high abrasion-resistance isn't available, then a re-coatable system would be acceptable, so long as I don't have to remove any base metal (more than a few tenths) to do it. Any ideas? And are any of them home-shop do-able? (I'm willing to invest a couple of $K in hardware and chemicals, if so) LLoyd |
#10
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"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message ... I have a need for a very abrasion-resistant coating on aluminum that will resist sticking of wet sugars under high compression. If a very high abrasion-resistance isn't available, then a re-coatable system would be acceptable, so long as I don't have to remove any base metal (more than a few tenths) to do it. Any ideas? And are any of them home-shop do-able? (I'm willing to invest a couple of $K in hardware and chemicals, if so) LLoyd abrasion with what? if it's something soft like sugar cane, would anodizing work? it's not very abrasion-resistant by hard things. |
#11
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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
I have a need for a very abrasion-resistant coating on aluminum that will resist sticking of wet sugars under high compression. If a very high abrasion-resistance isn't available, then a re-coatable system would be acceptable, so long as I don't have to remove any base metal (more than a few tenths) to do it. Any ideas? And are any of them home-shop do-able? (I'm willing to invest a couple of $K in hardware and chemicals, if so) LLoyd teflon impregnated hard anodize seem to recall it is commercially available. |
#12
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On Thu, 05 May 2005 19:52:09 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote: I have a need for a very abrasion-resistant coating on aluminum that will resist sticking of wet sugars under high compression. If a very high abrasion-resistance isn't available, then a re-coatable system would be acceptable, so long as I don't have to remove any base metal (more than a few tenths) to do it. Any ideas? And are any of them home-shop do-able? (I'm willing to invest a couple of $K in hardware and chemicals, if so) LLoyd Hard coat anodize. Get it as thick as you can, about .005". This coating will be half way into the surface so that a .005" thick coating will only add .0025" to the surface. Hard coat is a ceramic coating and is very abrasion resistant. Not so resistant to alkaline solutions. I don't know what ph your sugar solution is. Wouldn't it just be easier to buy bags of sugar for your moonshine? Instead of squeezing it out of cane? ERS |
#13
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"Charles Spitzer" wrote in message ... "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message ... I have a need for a very abrasion-resistant coating on aluminum that will resist sticking of wet sugars under high compression. If a very high abrasion-resistance isn't available, then a re-coatable system would be acceptable, so long as I don't have to remove any base metal (more than a few tenths) to do it. abrasion with what? if it's something soft like sugar cane, would anodizing work? it's not very abrasion-resistant by hard things. I'm not squeezing cane. I'm compressing powdered compositions that contain, among other abrasive things, silica. LLoyd |
#14
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"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message .. . I'm not squeezing cane. I'm compressing powdered compositions that contain, among other abrasive things, silica. I should've added that it's a process similar to sintering with the attendant VERY high pressures... tons per square inch. The sugars tend to migrate to the surface under plastic flow, and stick to the forming dies. The system already works, but requires frequent cleaning (which is a chore). LS |
#15
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"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote in message
.. . I should've added that it's a process similar to sintering... The sugars tend to migrate to the surface under plastic flow Hmmm... sugar-based sintering? For edible bearings, perhaps vacuum impregnated with coconut oil? =:P |
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