Looking for a simple formula for super glue (CA) accelerant like
Zip-Kicker or equivalent.

Best I've been able to find out, it's a mixture of naptha and acetone,
but in what proportions and with anything else?

Zip-Kicker is $8.00 for a 4-oz bottle. I can buy a quart of acetone and
a quart of naptha for the same amount. Mix my own. Not have to wait for
the old fart down at the hobby shop to decide to actually open up for
business. (His business is a hobby, I guess.)

Metal content: I use super glue to seal and protect the handles of my
knives.

-Frank

--
fwarner1-at-franksknives-dot-com
Here's some of my work:
http://www.franksknives.com/

Looking for a simple formula for super glue (CA)
accelerant like Zip-Kicker or equivalent.

Anything that supplies OH- ions will do it. This means bases, (and
also just moisture, as water has some free OH- ions). Baking soda is
very commonly used and also helps fill gaps.

Tim.

Frank J Warner writes:

Best I've been able to find out, it's a mixture of naptha and acetone,
but in what proportions and with anything else?

Do those mix? Polar vs non-polar solvents?

Some MSDSs list n-heptane, so naphtha (note spelling) is a candidate.
Cleverly disguised as Coleman fuel at Wal-Mart.

Some MSDSs list ethyl acetate. Dunno of a convenient source for that.

Touching with a lip, eyelid, or other sensitive body part seems to reliably
kick off the polymerization.

Richard J Kinch wrote in
:

Frank J Warner writes:

Best I've been able to find out, it's a mixture of naptha and
acetone, but in what proportions and with anything else?

Do those mix? Polar vs non-polar solvents?

Some MSDSs list n-heptane, so naphtha (note spelling) is a candidate.
Cleverly disguised as Coleman fuel at Wal-Mart.

Or as Zipo lighter fluid, if you only want a small quantity.


Some MSDSs list ethyl acetate. Dunno of a convenient source for that.

Touching with a lip, eyelid, or other sensitive body part seems to
reliably kick off the polymerization.

In article , Richard J
Kinch wrote:

Frank J Warner writes:

Best I've been able to find out, it's a mixture of naptha and acetone,
but in what proportions and with anything else?

Do those mix? Polar vs non-polar solvents?

Some MSDSs list n-heptane, so naphtha (note spelling) is a candidate.
Cleverly disguised as Coleman fuel at Wal-Mart.

Some MSDSs list ethyl acetate. Dunno of a convenient source for that.

Touching with a lip, eyelid, or other sensitive body part seems to reliably
kick off the polymerization.

Bet you thought you were going to get me to lick of my kniveth to find
out, didn't you?

-Frank

--
fwarner1-at-franksknives-dot-com
Here's some of my work:
http://www.franksknives.com/

Frank J Warner wrote:

Looking for a simple formula for super glue (CA) accelerant like
Zip-Kicker or equivalent.

-Frank


I believe the old standard was baking soda.
...lew...

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 02:26:40 GMT, Lew Hartswick
wrote:

Frank J Warner wrote:

Looking for a simple formula for super glue (CA) accelerant like
Zip-Kicker or equivalent.

-Frank


I believe the old standard was baking soda.
...lew...

Most now have amines. Nasty.

Pete Keillor

Just curious: how long does it take to cure without accelerant, and how
fast would you like it to cure? Bob

Frank

Try raw linseed oil.

A common woodwind finish these days is raw linseed oil (not boiled, raw
like you get at art stores as a solvent) catalyzed with superglue. Way I
usually use it is slosh some on a quartered paper towel and put a few
drops of superglue on. Wipe quickly and smoothly across the wood. I
usually do it on a lathe at sanding speeds which makes it easier. Do
that 2 - 3 times, polish with a flannel cloth and you've got a
waterproof hard finish in about a minute. Biggest problem is if you are
too slow or hesitate you get lumps.

Jim

This sounds like a modern version of the old-school high gloss finish for
furniture, French polish. In which you use a shellac moistened pad coated
with a few drops of linseed oil. It is applied by hand rubbing repeatedly
until a deep, glossy, hard finish appears. Sort of like spit-shining the
wood.

Randy


"Jim McGill" wrote in message
...
Frank

Try raw linseed oil.

A common woodwind finish these days is raw linseed oil (not boiled, raw
like you get at art stores as a solvent) catalyzed with superglue. Way I
usually use it is slosh some on a quartered paper towel and put a few
drops of superglue on. Wipe quickly and smoothly across the wood. I
usually do it on a lathe at sanding speeds which makes it easier. Do
that 2 - 3 times, polish with a flannel cloth and you've got a
waterproof hard finish in about a minute. Biggest problem is if you are
too slow or hesitate you get lumps.

Jim

In article DRU4e.14$AL.10@lakeread08, "R. O'Brian"
wrote:

This sounds like a modern version of the old-school high gloss finish for
furniture, French polish. In which you use a shellac moistened pad coated
with a few drops of linseed oil. It is applied by hand rubbing repeatedly
until a deep, glossy, hard finish appears. Sort of like spit-shining the
wood.

Yep, same concept that hit me. I first encountered this type of finish
when, at the suggestion of the woodshop teacher, I did a turned lamp in
it - Shellac-dipped pad with a few drops of plain old motor oil, quickly
apply to spinning piece at high RPMs, re-dip, re-drip, re-apply until
piece is thoroughly coated, then knock the speed down about half, and go
after the piece with super-fine steel wool to knock off any "lumpies",
jack the speed back up, and repeat the process as desired.

Makes a perfectly gorgeous finish that looks, feels, and "wears" like
the piece was somehow coated in glass.

--
Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.

Frank J Warner wrote:
Looking for a simple formula for super glue (CA) accelerant like
Zip-Kicker or equivalent.

Best I've been able to find out, it's a mixture of naptha and acetone,
but in what proportions and with anything else?

Zip-Kicker is $8.00 for a 4-oz bottle. I can buy a quart of acetone and
a quart of naptha for the same amount. Mix my own. Not have to wait for
the old fart down at the hobby shop to decide to actually open up for
business. (His business is a hobby, I guess.)

Metal content: I use super glue to seal and protect the handles of my
knives.

-Frank


simple green and water 50/50 mixture in a spray bottle
Don

In article , Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Just curious: how long does it take to cure without accelerant, and how
fast would you like it to cure? Bob

Not long. The object is to put on about 50 coats in half an hour or so.
I'm managing 15-20 without the accelerant.

-Frank

--
fwarner1-at-franksknives-dot-com
Here's some of my work:
http://www.franksknives.com/

In article , Jim McGill
wrote:

Frank

Try raw linseed oil.

A common woodwind finish these days is raw linseed oil (not boiled, raw
like you get at art stores as a solvent) catalyzed with superglue. Way I
usually use it is slosh some on a quartered paper towel and put a few
drops of superglue on. Wipe quickly and smoothly across the wood. I
usually do it on a lathe at sanding speeds which makes it easier. Do
that 2 - 3 times, polish with a flannel cloth and you've got a
waterproof hard finish in about a minute. Biggest problem is if you are
too slow or hesitate you get lumps.

Jim

Interesting. I have linseed oil, boiled and raw. Might try this process
on some scrap.

I don't finish my pieces in a lathe. These are contoured wooden handles
for knives. Each one is finished by hand. The superglue finish is an
accepted method of sealing and protecting unstabilized wood. Gives a
perfectly smooth, glass-like finish.

-Frank

--
fwarner1-at-franksknives-dot-com
Here's some of my work:
http://www.franksknives.com/

In article , Don
Murray wrote:

Frank J Warner wrote:
Looking for a simple formula for super glue (CA) accelerant like
Zip-Kicker or equivalent.

Best I've been able to find out, it's a mixture of naptha and acetone,
but in what proportions and with anything else?

Zip-Kicker is $8.00 for a 4-oz bottle. I can buy a quart of acetone and
a quart of naptha for the same amount. Mix my own. Not have to wait for
the old fart down at the hobby shop to decide to actually open up for
business. (His business is a hobby, I guess.)

Metal content: I use super glue to seal and protect the handles of my
knives.

-Frank


simple green and water 50/50 mixture in a spray bottle
Don

I'll try that.

-Frank

--
fwarner1-at-franksknives-dot-com
Here's some of my work:
http://www.franksknives.com/

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 11:34:59 -0700, Frank J Warner
wrote:

In article , Jim McGill
wrote:

Frank

Try raw linseed oil.

A common woodwind finish these days is raw linseed oil (not boiled, raw
like you get at art stores as a solvent) catalyzed with superglue. Way I
usually use it is slosh some on a quartered paper towel and put a few
drops of superglue on. Wipe quickly and smoothly across the wood. I
usually do it on a lathe at sanding speeds which makes it easier. Do
that 2 - 3 times, polish with a flannel cloth and you've got a
waterproof hard finish in about a minute. Biggest problem is if you are
too slow or hesitate you get lumps.

Jim

Interesting. I have linseed oil, boiled and raw. Might try this process
on some scrap.

I don't finish my pieces in a lathe. These are contoured wooden handles
for knives. Each one is finished by hand. The superglue finish is an
accepted method of sealing and protecting unstabilized wood. Gives a
perfectly smooth, glass-like finish.

-Frank
Frank,
I asked my dentist why superglue wasn't used with fillings and he said
it's water soluble. That's also why it can be used in emergency
surgery or wound closing because it dissolves over time. I'm surprised
it works well for knife handles. Does it ever wear off?
Eric

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 11:34:59 -0700, Frank J Warner
wrote:

In article , Jim McGill
wrote:

Frank

Try raw linseed oil.

A common woodwind finish these days is raw linseed oil (not boiled, raw
like you get at art stores as a solvent) catalyzed with superglue. Way I
usually use it is slosh some on a quartered paper towel and put a few
drops of superglue on. Wipe quickly and smoothly across the wood. I
usually do it on a lathe at sanding speeds which makes it easier. Do
that 2 - 3 times, polish with a flannel cloth and you've got a
waterproof hard finish in about a minute. Biggest problem is if you are
too slow or hesitate you get lumps.

Jim

Interesting. I have linseed oil, boiled and raw. Might try this process
on some scrap.

I don't finish my pieces in a lathe. These are contoured wooden handles
for knives. Each one is finished by hand. The superglue finish is an
accepted method of sealing and protecting unstabilized wood. Gives a
perfectly smooth, glass-like finish.

Frank, can that be applied over existing wood finishes?

I've got four 10' L x 26" W x 2" thick old bowling alley lane sections
I'm using as work bench tops. I cut th' width down from 42" and used
th' remaining 16" for back splashes. I'm not sure what they used to
seal those with, I want to say some kind of a clear acrylic, then an
oiled finish.

Guess I should just try it on a section and see what happens? I'd
really rather not take them back down to bare wood if possible.

And if any of you have th' opportunity to be around when an old
bowling alley is being torn down, this stuff is *great* for work bench
tops! They're sitting on top of a slew of old, steel, kitchen
cabinets I scored from Fort Lewis when they upgraded th' on base
housing a couple of years ago. Total cost for forty lineal feet of
cabinets (both lowers and uppers, even lazy susan corner units) and
th' bowling lanes was $150 plus gas/time to get 'em. It's a beautiful
thing g.

Snarl