Sure, absolutely, and why not. Your compressor has a relief valve that
discharges the air built up in the head, so it doesn't have to try to start
under a load. You can use # 12 wire if its not to long a run, protect the
circuit with a double pole 20 amp, and use a higher rated double pole switch
at the machine for safety. I know they make auto drains,but I'm not sure
where to get them. You could try www.grainger.com Have Fun
"Ignoramus6609" wrote in message
...
I just bought this used compressor, which seems to be in a nice shape
and runs okay, as far as I could tell.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/CurtisCompressor/

I am going to connect it to this subpanel:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/subpanel/

The compressor is rated 16 amps at 220 volts and has a pump release
for startup. That means that it has EASY starts and NOT HARD starts.

I have 3 questions.

1. Can I connect it to electricity with a regular 20A 220V plug, and
use regular flexible 10-12 gauge wire?

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

3. Is there some smart autodrain device that I could install in place
of the drain plug?

Thanks!

i


--

"Ignoramus6609" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 20:25:13 -0500, ATP* wrote:

"Ignoramus6609" wrote in message
...
I just bought this used compressor, which seems to be in a nice shape
and runs okay, as far as I could tell.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/CurtisCompressor/

I am going to connect it to this subpanel:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/subpanel/

Looks like the subpanel is already full, unless nothing is connected to
those breakers.

I meant that I would connect the compressor to electricity by plugging
it into a 220V outlet connected to the subpanel. (pictured on the
link that I provided)

Why not hardwire it and use a switch duty circuit breaker to shut the power
off? You can buy a larger subpanel for very little money if you need more
circuits, as long as you don't overload the feeder.

Ignoramus6609 wrote:
I just bought this used compressor, which seems to be in a nice shape
and runs okay, as far as I could tell.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/CurtisCompressor/

I am going to connect it to this subpanel:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/subpanel/

The compressor is rated 16 amps at 220 volts and has a pump release
for startup. That means that it has EASY starts and NOT HARD starts.

I have 3 questions.

1. Can I connect it to electricity with a regular 20A 220V plug, and
use regular flexible 10-12 gauge wire?

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

3. Is there some smart autodrain device that I could install in place
of the drain plug?

Thanks!

i




Put those two 20A/240V outlets at the panel on the same breaker, and use
the other 20A 2-pole breaker for your compressor. Either hardwire it,
or install another outlet right by the compressor and plug it in with a
short cord. Use the breaker for a switch -- just switch it off when the
compressor motor is not running. When you switch it on, the motor will
start up, but that's OK because the compressor has an unloader valve and
the motor will not have to start under much of a load.

Bob

Would you consider changing your nickname? It is a little, um, unsuited for
a guy who now owns such a formidable air compressor :-)

Whether you plug it in or whether you hardwire it using flex conduit will
be decided by how soon you plan to move, and if you think you'll be sharing
that circuit with another machine. If, for example, you may want to have 2
different machines plugged in when you weren't using shop air, you might well
want to have it on a plug. If you wanted, you *could* knock out a hole in one
of your outlet boxes and hardwire it in there, splicing in a 3-wire pigtail
so both the outlet and the air compressor would be connected, and just use
one or the other. It isn't up to code, but when you move you'll take your
air compressor and just pop in one of those 3/4" knockout plugs and then
presto it'll be back up to code. A one-man shop can run on the assumption of
one machine at a time in my opinion.

Hardwiring it in flex conduit is cheaper than buying 12-SO3 cable and a 220
plug, as you'll soon find out.

Grant

"Ignoramus6609" wrote in message
...

1. Can I connect it to electricity with a regular 20A 220V plug, and
use regular flexible 10-12 gauge wire?

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

3. Is there some smart autodrain device that I could install in place
of the drain plug?

Thanks!



1. Yes

2. Yes

3. Yes. Harbor freight makes one, but I would not recommend it. I had two
fail in six months so I bought this one.
(the link drops the = sign for some reason, Grainger item #4TK04)
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...&ccitem=E asy install, just remove the drain valve, and screw it on! No extraplumbing like the HF valve.Greg

Grant Erwin wrote:

Hardwiring it in flex conduit is cheaper than buying 12-SO3 cable and a 220
plug, as you'll soon find out.



Wouldn't he use SJO instead of SO? The J makes a big difference!
I once made the mistake of ordering (unseen) some 12 gauge STO flexible
cord to make a heavy-duty extension cord. The cord was so big I had to
whittle down the jacket to get the ends to fit. Sort of fit.

Bob

Ignoramus6609 wrote:

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power
switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

You might want to check if the "switches/breakers" are rated for switch
duty. IIRC, not all breakers can be used to reguarly switch the load on
and off; it may compromise their ability to protect the circuit.
They're meant for a more limited number of cycles than a switch would
undergo.

You might want to add another box on the end of that gang of two 240V
outlets and move one outlet into it, then use the box in the middle to
house a "real" switch in line with the outlet. One posibility is the
Cutler-Hammer B230AN, which is rated 5 hp at 240V single phase. That's
in the neighborhood of the 16A you stated.

Pages 38-32 and 38-33 of
http://www.eatonelectrical.com/unsec...B03800001E.PDF

%mod%

Ignoramus6609 wrote:
What I want to find is an inline two
pole switch.

Not sure what you mean by "inline" here, wou mean one that goes in the
flexible power cord like a heftier version of a table lamp switch, or
just something that goes "in the line" between the breaker and the
outlet? Anyway, that C-H B230AN I mentioned in another post fits the
latter bill. It's 2 pole for 240V motors.

%mod%

I think that cost is not a big deal, those 220V plugs and 12 gauge
cords are not *that* expensive. What I want to find is an inline two
pole switch.

You can get a 2 pole toggle switch than looks like a fat light 3 way light
switch at any "big box" hardware store. They are rated 20 amps and should
cost less than $20. I put one in for my electric water heater to make it
easy to shut it off when I shut off the pump supply when I plan to be out of
the house for more than a day. If the rating on the switch isn't high
enough to make your happy, you can get a disconnect for a air-conditioner.
The "disconnect" is safer if you think you might have to repair the unit.

The box the disconnect is mounted in will provide the transition between the
flex and the romex.

There are motor rated toggle switches (just like the light switch in your
wall to control your ceiling lights). They are more costly to buy, but they
will handle the start stop load of your compressor quite easily. Just put
one btween your breaker and you motor.


"Ignoramus6609" wrote in message
...
On 25 Feb 2005 19:56:30 -0800,
wrote:
Ignoramus6609 wrote:

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power
switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

You might want to check if the "switches/breakers" are rated for switch
duty. IIRC, not all breakers can be used to reguarly switch the load on
and off; it may compromise their ability to protect the circuit.
They're meant for a more limited number of cycles than a switch would
undergo.

You might want to add another box on the end of that gang of two 240V
outlets and move one outlet into it, then use the box in the middle to
house a "real" switch in line with the outlet. One posibility is the
Cutler-Hammer B230AN, which is rated 5 hp at 240V single phase. That's
in the neighborhood of the 16A you stated.

Pages 38-32 and 38-33 of
http://www.eatonelectrical.com/unsec...B03800001E.PDF

Thanks, good stuff. I am looking at it. The outlets are already
protected by proper electcrical circuit breakers. So, if I add a
switch in sequence to the breaker, I am not concerned about inability
of that switch to protect the circuit. It is the job of the breaker.

i

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
Ignoramus6609 wrote:
I just bought this used compressor, which seems to be in a nice shape
and runs okay, as far as I could tell.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/CurtisCompressor/

I am going to connect it to this subpanel:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/subpanel/

The compressor is rated 16 amps at 220 volts and has a pump release
for startup. That means that it has EASY starts and NOT HARD starts.

I have 3 questions.

1. Can I connect it to electricity with a regular 20A 220V plug, and
use regular flexible 10-12 gauge wire?

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

3. Is there some smart autodrain device that I could install in place
of the drain plug?

Thanks!

i




Put those two 20A/240V outlets at the panel on the same breaker, and use
the other 20A 2-pole breaker for your compressor. Either hardwire it,
or install another outlet right by the compressor and plug it in with a
short cord. Use the breaker for a switch -- just switch it off when the
compressor motor is not running. When you switch it on, the motor will
start up, but that's OK because the compressor has an unloader valve and
the motor will not have to start under much of a load.


Most unloaders only unload at the top of the pressure cycle, if thats not
reached or its between then your still starting under a heavy load.

If the unloader is a part of the pressure switch then this will likely be a
problem if your using the breaker for a shutoff.

--

SVL

"PrecisionMachinisT" wrote in message
...

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
Ignoramus6609 wrote:
I just bought this used compressor, which seems to be in a nice shape
and runs okay, as far as I could tell.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/CurtisCompressor/

I am going to connect it to this subpanel:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/subpanel/

The compressor is rated 16 amps at 220 volts and has a pump release
for startup. That means that it has EASY starts and NOT HARD starts.

I have 3 questions.

1. Can I connect it to electricity with a regular 20A 220V plug, and
use regular flexible 10-12 gauge wire?

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

3. Is there some smart autodrain device that I could install in place
of the drain plug?

Thanks!

i




Put those two 20A/240V outlets at the panel on the same breaker, and use
the other 20A 2-pole breaker for your compressor. Either hardwire it,
or install another outlet right by the compressor and plug it in with a
short cord. Use the breaker for a switch -- just switch it off when the
compressor motor is not running. When you switch it on, the motor will
start up, but that's OK because the compressor has an unloader valve and
the motor will not have to start under much of a load.


Most unloaders only unload at the top of the pressure cycle, if thats not
reached or its between then your still starting under a heavy load.

If the unloader is a part of the pressure switch then this will likely be
a
problem if your using the breaker for a shutoff.

--

SVL

SVL

There are alot of electrical cut off switches that include a small valve
that gets opened whenever the contactor is deenergized. That way, the
volume between the head and the check valve in the tank, is evacuated every
time the compressor is turned off, for any reason and at any pressure. The
result is - no high pressures at start up. The pump is free to pressurize
air into the volume between the pump and the tank beginning at no pressure.

I looked at the pictures of the compressor and didnt see the check valve,
but I thought it was probably there and not easily seen in the picture.

Jerry

Thanks, good stuff. I am looking at it. The outlets are already
protected by proper electcrical circuit breakers. So, if I add a
switch in sequence to the breaker, I am not concerned about inability
of that switch to protect the circuit. It is the job of the breaker.

Wrong. The breaker protects your HOUSE. If wires short and start drawing
enough current to heat up and maybe burn your house down, the breaker pops.
You should be thinking about a motor starter. It doesn't have to be a
mag switch, could be a definite purpose contactor, but whatever, it should
have overloads in it that protect your motor. Search ebay on Square D
motor starters or magnetic switches or contactors, stuff like that. A
little 3 hp motor can run with a NEMA size 1 no problem, they don't cost
much used.

GWE

"Jerry Martes" wrote in message
news:PgUTd.62315$wc.41001@trnddc07...

"PrecisionMachinisT" wrote in message
...

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
Ignoramus6609 wrote:
I just bought this used compressor, which seems to be in a nice shape
and runs okay, as far as I could tell.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/CurtisCompressor/

I am going to connect it to this subpanel:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/subpanel/

The compressor is rated 16 amps at 220 volts and has a pump release
for startup. That means that it has EASY starts and NOT HARD starts.

I have 3 questions.

1. Can I connect it to electricity with a regular 20A 220V plug, and
use regular flexible 10-12 gauge wire?

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power
switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

3. Is there some smart autodrain device that I could install in place
of the drain plug?

Thanks!

i




Put those two 20A/240V outlets at the panel on the same breaker, and
use
the other 20A 2-pole breaker for your compressor. Either hardwire it,
or install another outlet right by the compressor and plug it in with a
short cord. Use the breaker for a switch -- just switch it off when
the
compressor motor is not running. When you switch it on, the motor will
start up, but that's OK because the compressor has an unloader valve
and
the motor will not have to start under much of a load.


Most unloaders only unload at the top of the pressure cycle, if thats
not
reached or its between then your still starting under a heavy load.

If the unloader is a part of the pressure switch then this will likely
be
a
problem if your using the breaker for a shutoff.

--

SVL

SVL

There are alot of electrical cut off switches that include a small valve
that gets opened whenever the contactor is deenergized. That way, the
volume between the head and the check valve in the tank, is evacuated
every
time the compressor is turned off, for any reason and at any pressure.
The
result is - no high pressures at start up. The pump is free to pressurize
air into the volume between the pump and the tank beginning at no
pressure.

I looked at the pictures of the compressor and didnt see the check
valve,
but I thought it was probably there and not easily seen in the picture.


Amazing how many responsesthis ignoramous fellow gets to the simplest
questions, isn't it ???

--

SVL

On 26 Feb 2005 00:55:23 GMT, Ignoramus6609
wrote:

I just bought this used compressor, which seems to be in a nice shape
and runs okay, as far as I could tell.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/CurtisCompressor/

I am going to connect it to this subpanel:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/subpanel/

The compressor is rated 16 amps at 220 volts and has a pump release
for startup. That means that it has EASY starts and NOT HARD starts.

I have 3 questions.

1. Can I connect it to electricity with a regular 20A 220V plug, and
use regular flexible 10-12 gauge wire?

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

3. Is there some smart autodrain device that I could install in place
of the drain plug?

Thanks!

i

Horrible Freight sells autodrain kits. If you can find a timer, I can
send you a solenoid and air manifold that will pipe up to your tank.

Gunner

It's better to be a red person in a blue state
than a blue person in a red state. As a red
person, if your blue neighbors turn into a mob
at least you have a gun to protect yourself.
As a blue person, your only hope is to appease
the red mob with herbal tea and marinated tofu.

(Phil Garding)

"Ignoramus6609" wrote in message
...
I just bought this used compressor, which seems to be in a nice shape
and runs okay, as far as I could tell.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/CurtisCompressor/

I am going to connect it to this subpanel:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/subpanel/

The compressor is rated 16 amps at 220 volts and has a pump release
for startup. That means that it has EASY starts and NOT HARD starts.

I have 3 questions.

1. Can I connect it to electricity with a regular 20A 220V plug, and
use regular flexible 10-12 gauge wire?

2. I have some nice AC switches/breakers, from a big UPS, 40 amp
rated, can I install one on the compressor to serve as a power switch?
This compressor does not have a power switch, and I would hate it to
turn itself on in the middle of the night, or during the day to
startle someone who might be in the garage. At the same time, I feel
that pulling the plug is not a good solution.

3. Is there some smart autodrain device that I could install in place
of the drain plug?

Thanks!

i


--

Since you have an industrial quality compressor why not do and industrial
style installation. That would be a disconnect box for killing the power
connected with flexible conduit from the main to the compressor. As far as
an autodrain check Graingers, as suggested, or McMaster-Carr. Those things
are usually set for every 5 or 10 minutes to dump the water. You might also
consider a refrigerated air dryer and a coalescing filter because you will
never get the water out by simply draining the storage tank.

On 26 Feb 2005 03:28:58 GMT, Ignoramus6609
wrote:

What I want to find is an inline two
pole switch.

Ill check in the morning..I may have some 20 amp ones. If I do..Ill
send you one free.

Gunner

It's better to be a red person in a blue state
than a blue person in a red state. As a red
person, if your blue neighbors turn into a mob
at least you have a gun to protect yourself.
As a blue person, your only hope is to appease
the red mob with herbal tea and marinated tofu.

(Phil Garding)

"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...

How much would a good (read reliable) auto drain and a adequately
sized drier set me back?

i


You do not need an air dryer, unless you are painting.
Graingers auto drain, item number 4KT04, $56.80
Greg

"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 03:15:16 -0500, Ross Mac
wrote:

Since you have an industrial quality compressor why not do and industrial
style installation. That would be a disconnect box for killing the power
connected with flexible conduit from the main to the compressor. As far
as

After a night of good sleep, I decided to do exactly that.

an autodrain check Graingers, as suggested, or McMaster-Carr. Those
things are usually set for every 5 or 10 minutes to dump the
water. You might also consider a refrigerated air dryer and a
coalescing filter because you will never get the water out by simply
draining the storage tank.

The bad thing is, I could have bought a great military surplus air
dryer for not much, from the military, just a month ago, but I did not
feel a need for it.

How much would a good (read reliable) auto drain and a adequately
sized drier set me back?

i
I would google around "used equipment dealers" because they usually have all
sizes and prices. If you can't find one, let me know where you are located
and I should be able to dig one up. I have a lot of contacts in that
business.You will need to know the SCFM of your unit to size it
correctly....Also, you might be able to get them to throw a fused knife
switch in the deal for your disconnect......good luck, Ross

"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...

How much would a good (read reliable) auto drain and a adequately
sized drier set me back?

i


You do not need an air dryer, unless you are painting.
Graingers auto drain, item number 4KT04, $56.80
Greg

I suspect he *will* need a dryer. You will notice he has this posted also on
a metalworking NG. If you don't dry the air properly, you will get water out
of your air guns and water into any machine tools you connect. That was the
biggest destructive force I saw in the machine tool trade.
Here's the deal. When you compress air the moiture becomes steam. Steam
cannot be filtered out so you need to bring the temperature down of the air
so it can be filtered out. And that is the basic test of an air dryer...grab
both the incoming and outgoing lines and you should see a noticable
temperature difference. The device you recommend would be fine after the
dryer......take care, Ross

"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 10:29:50 -0500, Ross Mac
wrote:

"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 03:15:16 -0500, Ross Mac
wrote:

Since you have an industrial quality compressor why not do and
industrial
style installation. That would be a disconnect box for killing the
power
connected with flexible conduit from the main to the compressor. As far
as

After a night of good sleep, I decided to do exactly that.

an autodrain check Graingers, as suggested, or McMaster-Carr. Those
things are usually set for every 5 or 10 minutes to dump the
water. You might also consider a refrigerated air dryer and a
coalescing filter because you will never get the water out by simply
draining the storage tank.

The bad thing is, I could have bought a great military surplus air
dryer for not much, from the military, just a month ago, but I did not
feel a need for it.

How much would a good (read reliable) auto drain and a adequately
sized drier set me back?

i
I would google around "used equipment dealers" because they usually have
all
sizes and prices. If you can't find one, let me know where you are
located
and I should be able to dig one up. I have a lot of contacts in that
business.You will need to know the SCFM of your unit to size it
correctly....Also, you might be able to get them to throw a fused knife
switch in the deal for your disconnect......good luck, Ross

You see, I do not know the CFM of this unit. It has a big honest 3 HP
Baldor industrial motor. 16 amps, 220V. Dual cylinder pump. Any idea
what is the CFM?

I tried it today, it goes up to 140 PSI, then down to 100 PSI and
recharges again.

i

A Curtis 3 HP *appears* to be 11 SCFM. So any dryer that size or larger
should be sufficient.
Here is a link to their site
http://www.curtistoledo.com/curtistoledo.html
Good Luck, Ross

i

You might get some insight into the CFM rating of your single stage
compressor by comparing it with the information on air pumps in a Granger
catalog. They show how CFM is related to PSI and HP for their pumps.

Jerry




"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 10:29:50 -0500, Ross Mac
wrote:

"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 03:15:16 -0500, Ross Mac
wrote:

Since you have an industrial quality compressor why not do and
industrial
style installation. That would be a disconnect box for killing the
power
connected with flexible conduit from the main to the compressor. As far
as

After a night of good sleep, I decided to do exactly that.

an autodrain check Graingers, as suggested, or McMaster-Carr. Those
things are usually set for every 5 or 10 minutes to dump the
water. You might also consider a refrigerated air dryer and a
coalescing filter because you will never get the water out by simply
draining the storage tank.

The bad thing is, I could have bought a great military surplus air
dryer for not much, from the military, just a month ago, but I did not
feel a need for it.

How much would a good (read reliable) auto drain and a adequately
sized drier set me back?

i
I would google around "used equipment dealers" because they usually have
all
sizes and prices. If you can't find one, let me know where you are
located
and I should be able to dig one up. I have a lot of contacts in that
business.You will need to know the SCFM of your unit to size it
correctly....Also, you might be able to get them to throw a fused knife
switch in the deal for your disconnect......good luck, Ross

You see, I do not know the CFM of this unit. It has a big honest 3 HP
Baldor industrial motor. 16 amps, 220V. Dual cylinder pump. Any idea
what is the CFM?

I tried it today, it goes up to 140 PSI, then down to 100 PSI and
recharges again.

i

Greg O wrote:

"Ignoramus6609" wrote in message
...


3. Is there some smart autodrain device that I could install in place
of the drain plug?

Thanks!



3. Yes. Harbor freight makes one, but I would not recommend it. I had two
fail in six months so I bought this one.
(the link drops the = sign for some reason, Grainger item #4TK04)
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...&ccitem=E asy install, just remove the drain valve, and screw it on! No extraplumbing like the HF valve.Greg



I found a time delay relay at the scrap yard, along with a solenoid
operated valve (I'm not lucky, just persistent). I've got the relay set
so it turns the valve on for a fraction of a second whenever the
compressor turns on. This works very well, way better than me
remembering to walk around the back of the building and drain the tank
manually.

One problem with it is in winter the valve can ice up (since it is
outside). It tends to ice when the solenoid opens, which means the valve
doesn't quite close right and makes a slow leak.

Steve

Grady wrote:
There are motor rated toggle switches (just like the light switch in
your
wall to control your ceiling lights). They are more costly to buy,
but they
will handle the start stop load of your compressor quite easily. Just
put
one btween your breaker and you motor.

You mean like this suggestion:

You might want to add another box on the end of that gang of two
240V
outlets and move one outlet into it, then use the box in the
middle to
house a "real" switch in line with the outlet. One posibility is
the
Cutler-Hammer B230AN, which is rated 5 hp at 240V single phase.
That's
in the neighborhood of the 16A you stated.

Pages 38-32 and 38-33 of
http://www.eatonelectrical.com/unsec...B03800001E.PDF

%mod%

Ignoramus6609 wrote:
On 25 Feb 2005 19:56:30 -0800,
wrote:
Ignoramus6609 wrote:

Thanks, good stuff. I am looking at it. The outlets are already
protected by proper electcrical circuit breakers. So, if I add a
switch in sequence to the breaker, I am not concerned about inability
of that switch to protect the circuit. It is the job of the breaker.

I think I was reacting more to zxcvbob's suggestion to use the breakers
in your subpanel as the switches:

"... use the other 20A 2-pole breaker for your compressor. ... Use the
breaker for a switch -- just switch it off when the compressor motor is
not running. "

I agree that your 40A breakers could be used as switches as long as the
breakers in the subpanel are protecting the outlets and are not used as
switches. Once you use them as switches for a 16A compressor, the 40A
"breakers-turned-switches" should not be recycled for use as breakers
in a different application because they may be compromised. At some
point they might fail to make or fail to break when you flip them off
or on, but that should not pose a safety hazard because other means of
shutoff exist.

What sort of box will house the 40A breakers?

%mod%

Ignoramus6609 wrote:
On 25 Feb 2005 20:20:33 -0800,
wrote:

Ignoramus6609 wrote:
What I want to find is an inline two
pole switch.

Not sure what you mean by "inline" here, wou mean one that goes in
the
flexible power cord like a heftier version of a table lamp switch,
or

Yes. A beefier version of a lamp switch. Remember, with a 220V plug,
the circuit will be protected by a circuit breaker.

The version of the table lamp switch I'm talking about here is in the
cord, "inline" as it were. It has a little thumbwheel that turns the
lamp on or off. There are larger versions with snap-action rockers that
I've seen in some fractional horsepower motorized equipment like vacuum
pumps, grinders etc.

I see Leviton and Cooper are calling them "feed through cord switches":
http://www.leviton.com/pdfs/d-503/d-503M.pdf (page 5)
http://www.cooperwiringdevices.com/c...D_Switches.pdf
(page 28)

Anyway, I also turned up a nice selection of motor switches from
Leviton to compare to the Cutler-Hammer ones I mentioned earlier:

http://www.leviton.com/pdfs/switches...ch_booklet.pdf

I'd kind of always considered Cutler-Hammer synonomous with "serious"
industrial motor switches and starters, and Leviton synonomous with
"lightweight" residential and small appliance switches, plugs &
sockets, but hey, maybe an old dog can learn new tricks.

%mod%

PrecisionMachinisT wrote:

If the unloader is a part of the pressure switch then this will
likely be a
problem if your using the breaker for a shutoff.

Again I advocate not to use the breaker in the subpanel as a switch.
OK, got that off my chest.

Now, I thought of mentioning this next thing earlier, but stopped
myself... anyway...

Is there any way to rig the pressure switch to "not come on" regardless
of tank pressure, such that a sort of on/off switch is simulated? I
mean aside from dialing the cut-out pressure all the way down to zero,
which may not even be a possibility with some swithes?

%mod%

Gunner wrote:

Horrible Freight

I just blew a mouthfull of beer through my nose. You owe me a new
keyboard.

"Ross Mac" wrote in message
...

"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...

How much would a good (read reliable) auto drain and a adequately
sized drier set me back?

i


You do not need an air dryer, unless you are painting.
Graingers auto drain, item number 4KT04, $56.80
Greg

I suspect he *will* need a dryer. You will notice he has this posted also
on a metalworking NG. If you don't dry the air properly, you will get
water out of your air guns and water into any machine tools you connect.
That was the biggest destructive force I saw in the machine tool trade.
Here's the deal. When you compress air the moiture becomes steam. Steam
cannot be filtered out so you need to bring the temperature down of the
air so it can be filtered out. And that is the basic test of an air
dryer...grab both the incoming and outgoing lines and you should see a
noticable temperature difference. The device you recommend would be fine
after the dryer......take care, Ross

Ross, I believe you are assuming here. I have never seen him indicate
ownership of any machine tools. Perhaps he does, but I don't believe so.
But I will agree, if he does have machine tools with any air controls on
them a dryer would be in order. If a person is just using hand held air
tools, a dryer is a bit over kill. Many of the air tools I own have seen
fairly constant use for 25 years with no problems. Just a few drops of oil
once in a while will keep them running fine.
Greg

Here are a couple of options, depending on your horsepower and voltage that
you are switching. The first one is rated to 2 HP and up to 277 volt.

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring...hes&PN=HBL1222

This next link shows true manual motor controllers, 2 and 3 pole, with 30
amp 600 volt ratings.

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring...s/page_C17.pdf



wrote in message
ups.com...

Grady wrote:
There are motor rated toggle switches (just like the light switch in
your
wall to control your ceiling lights). They are more costly to buy,
but they
will handle the start stop load of your compressor quite easily. Just
put
one btween your breaker and you motor.

You mean like this suggestion:

You might want to add another box on the end of that gang of two
240V
outlets and move one outlet into it, then use the box in the
middle to
house a "real" switch in line with the outlet. One posibility is
the
Cutler-Hammer B230AN, which is rated 5 hp at 240V single phase.
That's
in the neighborhood of the 16A you stated.

Pages 38-32 and 38-33 of
http://www.eatonelectrical.com/unsec...B03800001E.PDF

%mod%

i

If you get interested in using a contacotr and a couple Allen Bradley push
button switches I would send you some good, used, parts. I'm in the Los
Angeles area and have way too many good junk that I'd like to see go to good
use.

Jerry


"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...
Thanks modervador. I have completed installing the compressor,
pictures to follow.

i

On 26 Feb 2005 19:26:39 -0800,
wrote:
Ignoramus6609 wrote:
On 25 Feb 2005 20:20:33 -0800,
wrote:

Ignoramus6609 wrote:
What I want to find is an inline two
pole switch.

Not sure what you mean by "inline" here, wou mean one that goes in
the
flexible power cord like a heftier version of a table lamp switch,
or

Yes. A beefier version of a lamp switch. Remember, with a 220V plug,
the circuit will be protected by a circuit breaker.

The version of the table lamp switch I'm talking about here is in the
cord, "inline" as it were. It has a little thumbwheel that turns the
lamp on or off. There are larger versions with snap-action rockers that
I've seen in some fractional horsepower motorized equipment like vacuum
pumps, grinders etc.

I see Leviton and Cooper are calling them "feed through cord switches":
http://www.leviton.com/pdfs/d-503/d-503M.pdf (page 5)
http://www.cooperwiringdevices.com/c...D_Switches.pdf
(page 28)

Anyway, I also turned up a nice selection of motor switches from
Leviton to compare to the Cutler-Hammer ones I mentioned earlier:

http://www.leviton.com/pdfs/switches...ch_booklet.pdf

I'd kind of always considered Cutler-Hammer synonomous with "serious"
industrial motor switches and starters, and Leviton synonomous with
"lightweight" residential and small appliance switches, plugs &
sockets, but hey, maybe an old dog can learn new tricks.

%mod%



--

"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"Ross Mac" wrote in message
...

"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus18224" wrote in message
...

How much would a good (read reliable) auto drain and a adequately
sized drier set me back?

i


You do not need an air dryer, unless you are painting.
Graingers auto drain, item number 4KT04, $56.80
Greg

I suspect he *will* need a dryer. You will notice he has this posted also
on a metalworking NG. If you don't dry the air properly, you will get
water out of your air guns and water into any machine tools you connect.
That was the biggest destructive force I saw in the machine tool trade.
Here's the deal. When you compress air the moiture becomes steam. Steam
cannot be filtered out so you need to bring the temperature down of the
air so it can be filtered out. And that is the basic test of an air
dryer...grab both the incoming and outgoing lines and you should see a
noticable temperature difference. The device you recommend would be fine
after the dryer......take care, Ross

Ross, I believe you are assuming here. I have never seen him indicate
ownership of any machine tools. Perhaps he does, but I don't believe so.
But I will agree, if he does have machine tools with any air controls on
them a dryer would be in order. If a person is just using hand held air
tools, a dryer is a bit over kill. Many of the air tools I own have seen
fairly constant use for 25 years with no problems. Just a few drops of oil
once in a while will keep them running fine.
Greg

I don't know about you but I prefer to not have water pouring out of air
guns, air tools or anything else pneumatic. But, too each their own.....Ross

"Ross Mac" wrote in message
I suspect he *will* need a dryer. You will notice he has this posted
also on a metalworking NG. If you don't dry the air properly, you will
get water out of your air guns and water into any machine tools you
connect.

Ross, I believe you are assuming here. I have never seen him indicate
ownership of any machine tools. Perhaps he does, but I don't believe so.
But I will agree, if he does have machine tools with any air controls on
them a dryer would be in order. Greg

I don't know about you but I prefer to not have water pouring out of air
guns, air tools or anything else pneumatic. But, too each their
own.....Ross


A lot depends on the use of the compressor, location (i.e., Arizona or the
Amazon) You are correct about condensation, but if just a tiny bit of air is
used intermittently, you may never see the water at the tools as it will
condense in the receiver. If you are using a steady flow, different
situation. At home I don't have a dryer on my small compressor and never
will, At work, we have a rather large refrigerant dryer to handle the 700
cfm we use and we get gallons of water from the lines.

"Ross Mac" wrote in message
...

I don't know about you but I prefer to not have water pouring out of air
guns, air tools or anything else pneumatic. But, too each their
own.....Ross


There you go assuming again!
I have zero problems with water pouring out of my air tools, in fact I have
painted a couple of cars with the setup I have with no water problems. I
never see any evidence of water with my tools. Perhaps you live in a very
humid area which causes problems for you. Strange enough it often gets 90%
humidity here in the summer, still no problems.. As long as some thought
goes into your piping system much of the water in the air will drop out
before it causes any problems.
Drain the tank often. Slope any air lines so moisture drains out, drain you
traps, and most cases moisture in the air will not be a problem.
I stand by my comment that for general shop use, hand held air tools, an air
dryer is over kill.
Greg

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. com...

"Ross Mac" wrote in message
I suspect he *will* need a dryer. You will notice he has this posted
also on a metalworking NG. If you don't dry the air properly, you will
get water out of your air guns and water into any machine tools you
connect.

Ross, I believe you are assuming here. I have never seen him indicate
ownership of any machine tools. Perhaps he does, but I don't believe so.
But I will agree, if he does have machine tools with any air controls on
them a dryer would be in order. Greg

I don't know about you but I prefer to not have water pouring out of air
guns, air tools or anything else pneumatic. But, too each their
own.....Ross


A lot depends on the use of the compressor, location (i.e., Arizona or the
Amazon) You are correct about condensation, but if just a tiny bit of air
is used intermittently, you may never see the water at the tools as it
will condense in the receiver. If you are using a steady flow, different
situation. At home I don't have a dryer on my small compressor and never
will, At work, we have a rather large refrigerant dryer to handle the 700
cfm we use and we get gallons of water from the lines.


I have never seen a mechanics shop in this area with an air dryer unless
they have some specialized equipment that needs extremely dry air.
I worked at a CNC machine shop for a few years that did have air dryers, but
then with the air controls on some of the machines it was necessary.
I suspect that Ignoramus will not need a dryer either, unless he has some
equipment he is keeping a secret!
Greg

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. com...

"Ross Mac" wrote in message
I suspect he *will* need a dryer. You will notice he has this posted
also on a metalworking NG. If you don't dry the air properly, you will
get water out of your air guns and water into any machine tools you
connect.

Ross, I believe you are assuming here. I have never seen him indicate
ownership of any machine tools. Perhaps he does, but I don't believe so.
But I will agree, if he does have machine tools with any air controls on
them a dryer would be in order. Greg

I don't know about you but I prefer to not have water pouring out of air
guns, air tools or anything else pneumatic. But, too each their
own.....Ross


A lot depends on the use of the compressor, location (i.e., Arizona or the
Amazon) You are correct about condensation, but if just a tiny bit of air
is used intermittently, you may never see the water at the tools as it
will condense in the receiver. If you are using a steady flow, different
situation. At home I don't have a dryer on my small compressor and never
will, At work, we have a rather large refrigerant dryer to handle the 700
cfm we use and we get gallons of water from the lines.


Agreed.....but even in a dry climate like California for example the rain
will come and muck everything up for a few days but like you said usage
pattern.
We had those large systems too at my last place of employment
(retired/retarded). One of my duties was to spec the sytems out for
manufacturing. Your suggestion of the oil separator in another thread was
also a good one. I used to get a kick out of that though. I would walk past
the compressor pad and see the separator overflowing onto the
pavement.......by the way, I checked out your woodworking/website...very
nice.....Ross

"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"Ross Mac" wrote in message
...

I don't know about you but I prefer to not have water pouring out of air
guns, air tools or anything else pneumatic. But, too each their
own.....Ross


There you go assuming again!

Don't you hate when I do that!

I have zero problems with water pouring out of my air tools, in fact I
have painted a couple of cars with the setup I have with no water
problems. I never see any evidence of water with my tools. Perhaps you
live in a very humid area which causes problems for you. Strange enough it
often gets 90%

Florida!
Even when I lived in California, during the rainy season the water would
flow big time.

humidity here in the summer, still no problems.. As long as some thought
goes into your piping system much of the water in the air will drop out
before it causes any problems.
Drain the tank often. Slope any air lines so moisture drains out, drain
you traps, and most cases moisture in the air will not be a problem.

Those are all excellent suggestions.

I stand by my comment that for general shop use, hand held air tools, an
air dryer is over kill.
Greg
Well, we will have to agree to disagree....best wishes to ya Greg......Ross

"Ignoramus10062" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 08:32:05 -0600, Greg O wrote:
I have never seen a mechanics shop in this area with an air dryer unless
they have some specialized equipment that needs extremely dry air.
I worked at a CNC machine shop for a few years that did have air dryers,
but
then with the air controls on some of the machines it was necessary.
I suspect that Ignoramus will not need a dryer either, unless he has some
equipment he is keeping a secret!

So far, I have a tire inflator, two blow guns (shows my appreciation
of guns), and a HF air sander.

i

Well watch out! You WILL get the bug to buy more air powered tools. Once you
catch it, there is no cure!
You have a great start with that compressor. Take care of it and you will
never need to replace it!
Greg

"Ross Mac" wrote in message
...
SNIP
| Agreed.....but even in a dry climate like California for example the rain
| will come and muck everything up for a few days but like you said usage
| pattern.
| We had those large systems too at my last place of employment
| (retired/retarded). One of my duties was to spec the sytems out for
| manufacturing. Your suggestion of the oil separator in another thread was
| also a good one. I used to get a kick out of that though. I would walk
past
| the compressor pad and see the separator overflowing onto the
| pavement.......by the way, I checked out your woodworking/website...very
| nice.....Ross

When I lived in Dallas I had the "duty" of dumping the condensate tank
every night at a steel foundry. Two seven ton arc furnaces and all the
equipment that it fed was more water than I would have expected. I opened
the 4" valve and it blasted water out continuously for about five minutes
before it turned into a mist. The tank was enormous, about ten feet tall.
After the cooler the air went into a tangential fashion into the tank,
letting the liquid settle out without taking the water on down the line. I
still had a smaller pair of scroll compressors on the other side of the
plant that had a much smaller dryer tank. Not quite as dramatic, however.

"Ignoramus10062" wrote in message
Thank you. It is a pleasant thing to own. Regarding taking care of the
compressor, would it be proper to say that oil needs to be changed
when it becomes dark?

Hours run is the usual criteria. Do you have a manual? If not, check out
similar machines for an idea of time.



Also, the motor has a grease gun adaptor. How often should I grease
it?

Not very often. Again, hours ru n is what determines it. Good motors can go
years bwtween lubes. I'd not do it more than once a year. I've seen some
that say every five years.


I am now draining moisture, it is a clear liquid, but OMG, there is a
lot of it in the tank! (at least a pint has dripped by now, still
dripping).

As long as it is clean, it is water. If it gets milky, you are getting some
oil in it. That is also common over time, especially after the rings wear a
bit.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/